rory

its pitch black .. there are no lights in that area besides that light .. and that Day Night dome doesnt see very well in low light in BW mode anyway, its OEM, not cheap OEM though, something you'd find by Provideo or even Sanyo kind of pricing ... but seems to work well with the IR. So basically with the light off, it sees nothing .. Jasper the EX12LED is more powerful and has controls built in, also more expensive, this one is good for short distances. Id probably just use this one. or step up to the EX26LED if you need more light .. dont think the EX12LED is that much better except having the extra control.

Like the LCD ... and its Korean ... would like to see what its like ..

here is an example of a day night dome (not the sanyo nor Extreme) with seperate IR (wizKid WZ12LED). That plant is new and has to move .. or LED go up.

i think thats it, they only have one model .. just checking price diffs. .

cheaper than a sanyo DN dome?

cool, email them one of these images, and say "whaz up??" i did that to Provideo before, course they didnt make the camera but still ..

The DVRs IP, Subnet, and Gateway correspond to the routers range and settings? Use the same gateway and subnet as is on your PC, goto Command Prompt and IPCONFIG Set the ip to something in the gateway range, say if the gateway is 192.168.1.1, then make the DVR 192.168.1.200, provided nothing else is set to .200 on your network. Port forward to it, though that shouldnt matter - port forward is only for outside the network, such as over the internet. You should have a light on the DVRs lan port, and on the router port, when the 2 have the cable conected to each one. You should always be able to telnet to the DVR, if it is the correct IP, Port, and is connected properly. Obviously if its a PC based and has something blocking it, then that needs to be addressed also, but as a stand alone should work, once set up correctly. If you cant telnet to it, then you wont be able to connect to it at all. eg: c:\TELNET 192.168.1.200 8000 if the port in the DVR is 8000 also try port 80 since its non Windows based, you can also just set the DMZ to the DVRs IP. If still no go ... are you using this router to get online now? Can you connect to any other PC on the router? Rory

if it was cheap, best to just chuck it Ive seen those on alot of chinese manufacturer sites .

just cut the power wire to the LEDs, inside the camera.

Probably just the name they gave them, same with Eclipse PC card drivers, they had a wired name too, they all name them .. what to do is find the actual driver file, and get the properties of it and see what the file name is .. also look on the chip, what name does it say, and is it only 1 chip ..

oh well, tried least you know how to do it for other cards works with Geo GV-250 btw .. rory

telnet is just checking to see if you can connect to the ip and port number... if that doesnt work ... then there is a problem.

The TV will, but is only generally 300TVL approx, while the CCTV Monitors come in as high as 500-800TVL ... they will cost a little more but if you can get your hands on a 21" Color 450 or 500TVL one, would be better, last longer also. The Samsung 21" monitor is one we use alot. if not, the TV will work.

Oh yeah, another thing, you could always use the RCA output from the Video card, if it has one, and use a RCA-BNC adaptor .. cant say how the quality will look though at the other end. If it has an SVideo output only you can buy a RCA-SVideo adaptor. Rory

yep, if you dont program anything, that output should just display the cameras in whichever view you have it on the main VGA monitor, its an analogue output so its going to be high quality on a CCTV Monitor. If you are converting it back to VGA the image will be a little worse though, as the highest quality you will ever get is on a CCTV Monitor. It may be different, but i would imagine its the DSP output. Notice i also use SVHS from the ATI Video card to the SVHS on the CCTV Monitor for highest quality playback, With Geo you can playback in Full screen, without the GUI, and in multi views.

Oh well, tis why i use Extreme Reg cameras for licence plate apps ..

Okay, dont know if you did it right, but here is the exact way to try it, then if it doesnt work, dont know what to do after that. 1-Use existing DVR Card Drivers and Software that came with the Card. 2-Run the Original DVR Card Software. 3-Run BTSpy 4-Tell BTSpy how many channels the card has when it asks 5-When BTSpy asks for you to open Channel 1, Channel 2, etc, for each one it asks for, click on the camera channel in full screen within the Origirnal DVR software, so it can get the commands for each channel. 6-Do that for each channel it asks for, one at a time, basically follow the instructions on when to open the particular channel. 7-BTSpy saves a text file. 8-Uninstall the Original DVR card DRIVERS - right click unintsall in Device Manager - dont restart the PC 9-Run the Bt878 driver setup 10-Choose Custom Card 11-Select Configuration from BTspy file, select the saved text file 12-Check the Deveice Manager - if it doesnt have the same amount of drivers as the Original Drivers, run the Bt878 driver setup again, select that same text file, check the Device manager again. If you see an Exclamation or question mark next to any of the new drivers, uninstall it. 13-Try VidCam or AmCap and see if the card is recognised, see if all the channels appear - DO NOT USE THE ORIGINAL SOFTWARE 14-You may need to play with installing the Bt878 again to get the other channels, and uninstall anything with an error icon next to it. 15-Once the channels work in VidCap or AmCap, then you should be able to use any generic software. Im not sure if this works with anything over 4 channels. Rory

Sounds like it may have a DSP output, which is a yellow RCA output on the card ..? You can just use an RCA-BNC adaptor and will be much higher quality than using VGA. You can then program that output to view which cameras you want on it, well i dont know the DVR but with the Geo DSP you can either program specific cameras to be viewed, or just view what you see on the VGA monitor, but not the GUI, just the cameras. This is what i do with the Geo DVRs. http://www.bahamassecurity.com/pc_setup_example.jpg Rory

also try the sensitivety "up" mode, what i read in the data sheet, makes it brighter. have you got it to go into BW mode as yet? (7am im off to bed now) Rory

typically you should leave AGC off if used outdoors, due to the sun light glare. does this new camera have the AGC on or off by default or did you turn it on? I think it has an OSD right? Basically slow shutter, AGC, BLC, and wider IRIS pot level, makes it brighter. For night time BW mode "should" be much brighter also, and also should have a mechanical switchover, but i dont know this camera so cant say for sure. rory

not in a telephoto lens .. Fujinon has a f:0.95 lens but its like 3-8mm. http://www.fujinoncctv.com/pdfs/cctv0904/YV27x29LA-2.pdf I'd work on the camera first though .. how does the daytime image with sunlight compare to the old camera? Rory

this is the lens, the middle one. http://www.cbcamerica.com/cctvprod/computar/vari/0550.html

Focus doesnt seem to be a problem, everything looks in focus, its more than likely light related. Try some more tests then let us know what you get. You want to force it into BW mode if you can, for night, as thats the best quality at night. Thanks Rory

Hi and welcome .. whats the distance, width and depth, and also, whats is the location, whats in the FOV such as white walls, etc. lastly what camera do you have existing? Rory

weird, f:1.6 is not that low lux, F:1.3 would be a better lens to use in that area, such as the Computar 5-50mm f:1.3 or the Fujinon 5-50mm f:1.3. (i say that cause i just used a Computar 5-50mm lens) The old camera might have had the iris pot open more, SAGC or something else .. do you have the old camera so you can check its settings if it had dip switches? I really dont know that camera, but check the night vision thing it has, make sure that is turned on as bright as possible. You want to force the camera into BW mode though for low light, and focus it in low light (while in BW mode) just before it gets dark. In a case i just had, i switched a camera into a new housing and had all kinds of issues, I had to change the lens, then it was much better, but still not the same as before as was a differnt lens, My case, it was a bad lens, in your case maybe just a different camera and lens capability, eg. f:1.6 on the new camera. Wide Dynamic cameras normally wont be as low lux though so that may be the issue, maybe not. It sais it is 0.2 lux (i always ignore the extra 0) so i would force it into BW mode in low light or night time, and see what you get, even if you need to use a photocell to do so. If you have the manual, if like to see it It sais "sens" up is 0.02 lux though, have you tried that yet? I had issues with cameras switching to color at night time, when in reality it should stay in BW, i have to look for a photo cell myself. Basically color in the day, BW and night ... Im using IR so i had extra issues also .. the old lens from a different manufacturer worked much better under IR than the new one .. but the new one was much better for just Day Night Ops and also was a longer Zoom. Im having to buy a new IR lens for it now, but thats a whole other issue. Anyway, it looks like its focused, but try to make it stay in BW mode in low light and see what you get, BW will see much more. Thanks Rory