rory

I forgot to tell you, upgrade to SP2, it is more secure and faster But dont forget to tweak XP for the DVR regardless of whichever SP you are using.

Huh??? If you dont want to login and just load in windows automatically, just delete the user's password from the CONTROL PANEL, USER ACCOUNTS, and make sure there is only 1 user account. Also make sure "use the welcome screen" is ticked, which is default. In other words there is no need for multiple users if you are not going to use it.

no real remote video on those units though, nothing worth using anyway. Or have they changed that yet?

Where did you get that price from? BW or Color?? Sounds more like a Bahamian Price, and my price on the BW is much less than that here anyway .. Also, its a much better camera then the KT&C which is just an OEM:

dunno, but you trying out some new things hey

you sure it doesnt send email on motion or alarm? even the cheapest DVR from AvTech does that, but you have to turn it on through the network software. Not a switch for what you have there though, as no CDR etc, the Storesafe 4 channel DVR though has email alerts. See if you can get a deal on one here, or maybe even, yes, i'll say it, wait a sec, ..... e b a y .... Im getting 2 months with a 40GB HDD and the DVR set to smart motion or 8pps each, means when only 1 camera picking up motion its 30fps, and all in 720x480 each channel. Rory

Sorry Honeywell just isnt there. They rebadge their DVRs like Provideo and Pelco.

GE has 64 way view on one monitor, and then some.

Multi Site software only 25 way max, and Recording is 704x576. 352x240 based 480-fps recording Probably just Linux too. Honeywell isnt exactly "up there" with the latest gear anywayz.. It looks okay, but whats the price? Lets put it this way, at Honeywell prices, not worth it, if you can buy direct, sure its a nice looking system, but i cant comment on it cause Honeywell is not exactly a leader in CCTV, ive never known of anyone that actually buys their gear, except mostly DIYers or alarm guys that get caught up in the ADI thing.

well it was something like this, not sure if it was rat shack but was probably just the local electronic store, but rat shack sells them too I think.. http://www.smarthome.com/29061.html just a basic 15volt power supply .. Geeed Luck

here too, attics are a thing of the past foe me ... old and ting now yah see anwyay, just take it off that monitor all together, but the power supply. I think it was only 1 power supply I had to buy, as it covered the total amps for all cameras, I think (but you will have to check or I can do another search) the cameras only used like 200ma max 300ma and the PS was 1.5A. It was one big ugly splice though, so I would suggest some terminal strips from Rat Shack and an enclosure, to make it neater. Terminal a ground for all of them, seperate everything else. Anyway like I said, was quite a few years ago, i think it may even be before this forum, so I wouldnt bother searching just yet, ill take a look see myself and let you know ... if you give me the colors of each wire then Ill remember, most likely they are like I said though, as thats the norm. Rory

Ha ha ha .. i did the same thing a few years back, the same Focus system ... What I did was buy Power Supplies from the local rat shack, 15Volts (came in an multi setting of 12, 15 and 18, switchable. They didnt have the monitor in my case. Anyway, the wire, its been a while, but each camera has ground, positive, video, and audio. Audio, video, and Power share the same ground. Yellow = video Green = Audio Red = Positive Black = Negative The colors may be different, its been a few years not sure i can remember exactly. Anyway, this should help yah play with it some ... either leave them powered from the monitor, or take it off one time. Rory

Is it one of the all in one systems with a monitor, where all the cables connect to the monitor ..? Telco type cable? If so yes, will need some splicing though as they generally get power from the monitor, and are normally 15Volts.

Right here bud, they generally all have UPS's already, but dont realise they need one of these for true power protection. Its cheap, even down here I can get it for $55. Only really need the UPS for Windows Systems, though since 1996 myself never having a UPS and non stop power ourages, Ive never had a file system problem. Power off, power on http://www.apcc.com/resource/include/techspec_index.cfm?base_sku=LE600 Government here do not have the funds to fix it, they are just now trying to fix some of the roads, i wont go there!

Actually i dont even use a UPS, or battery back up, but without Voltage Regulation down here, we stand little chance of anything surviving our daily brownouts, hums, spikes, poweroutages, low voltage spikes, well you name it, we got it. I have the same Trip lite Voltage Regulator I bought back in 1996, and it has protected from from way back then, never lost anything to power problems myself, but everyone else i know does, all the time. Trust me, without a voltage regulator down here, your equipment doesnt stand much of a chance. The funniest thing is when the power dips, then comes back on .... lately it will hang there for a while, with low voltage, lights are dim orange with just enough power to give them something, all my electronics turned off thanks to the Voltage Regulator ... get alot of calls after those ones .. when i was doing alarms we used to spend most of our time replacing panels! And this summer ive already seen many PCs that lost things like CD Drives, ofcourse HDDs, even the cables themselves went bad, all after days of low power and brownouts. And they were all on UPS but no Voltage Regulation. I dont know what kind of generators we have down here, but i know they dont work right! They say they are second hand from years ago from some 3rd world south american country ..

I dont see where it sais it has Voltage Regulation though ..?? Which is the only really important thing.

IR = Infrared ... produces light at a level that only cameras within the IR Filter's range can see. Some are more responsive to IR and its different ranges, than others. Most color cameras will not pickup IR, especially if it has a set or auto IR Cut filter for color mode. Basically it is invisible or near invisible light, depending on the filter used. http://www.bahamassecurity.com/infrared.asp 2 Types or Night Vision Technologies are: ActiveIR And Thermal IR Below is from Extreme CCTV on ActiveIR: http://www.extremecctv.com/Infrared/ThermalIR-vs-ActiveIR_v6.pdf Active-IR technology is proven yet relatively new and is advancing rapidly in terms of effectiveness, systems integration and lower cost. Active-IR devices illuminate target scenes at wavelengths that are invisible to the human eye. Active-IR illuminators eliminate shadows, and reveal identifying lettering, numbers and objects to complement or outperform ICCDs (intensified cameras). Active-IR illuminators are now available in several technology types: a. Bulb type: 110 Volt high voltage or 28 Volt low voltage types. (eg. Extreme CCTV UF500) b. LED type: Regular or Supercharge type (eg. Extreme CCTV SuperLEDâ„¢) c. Laser type: Continuous mode or Pulse range-gated mode (eg. DALIS range gated model called the ATV2000i by Obzerv) Active-IR LED illumination can be continuously pulsed for fast shutter speed synchronization with cameras for high-speed video capture. This technique is ideal for reading license plates of vehicles. Active-IR illuminators are available in a range of wavelengths: 730nm, 850nm, 950nm, etc. Intelligent Scene Analysis software operates better under Active-IR, especially in dark night-time scenes. Active-IR technology can see through windows and is useful for DEA and other law enforcement operatives. Active-IR technology allows flash pulse lighting for covert surveillance similar to timed invisible “flashâ€

You'd think, but all the cheap domes ive used just dont match up the more expensive ones, its more than just warranty issues, there are power boards, settings, quality lenses, chips, programming, housings, etc. But ofcourse we pay for the brand name half the time, and ofcourse ive used some expensive ones that werent that great either.

Doesnt make a whole lot of difference on slower cards, but the faster the video card the faster the refresh rate generally, but what also makes a difference is the features of the cards. That said I normally just use the Saphire Radeon 128MB card for most cards, or the 256MB for the real time 8 and 16 channel cards. You cant go wrong with a Radeon card though.

Yep, everyone sells them, everywhere basically, just look for Speco Technologies. Web Site is: http://www.specotech.com/

yep that has it too. The key thing to look for is: Automatic Voltage Regulation Just Surge Protection and UPS is not enough. now i gotta test that in the real world too, though the ones I currently use are APC, Im just weiry of these all in one units, since the Voltage Regulators I have used are basically twice the size of these.

You need voltage regulation, APC has single units for approx$40, 600 watt, or you can look at something like the following. I havent used these yet so cant confirm they work or not. APC units I have here in the field and they have worked through all the major brownouts and spiked we have had this summer (there have been a ton of them basically every day!), i need to real world test these belkin units before I can comment. 330 watt http://catalog.belkin.com/IWCatProductPage.process?Merchant_Id=&Section_Id=76&pcount=&Product_Id=171876 660 watt http://catalog.belkin.com/IWCatProductPage.process?Merchant_Id=&Section_Id=76&pcount=&Product_Id=171958

Both have the same Sony SuperHAD CCD, ignore lux level unless it is Sony Exview. Extreme doesnt play the Lux game so also ignore that, its just a standard spec. 5 Year Warranty for WizKid, and literallly unbreakable (i tested it myself) Not sure if either will work, both require alot of light to get a clear image. You may want to buy a cheap color bullet to test with. (not Color IR, just color) Im going to finally get to play with the Sanyo Day Nights this weekend at the club, so will let you know how those go, owner will be back tonight so tommorrow we will do some work on those. Rory

yeah well, got some bills to deal with first ...

after what was it, 3 months!? Anyway ... finally AC and loads of power (plus gas) .. but guess what .. they didnt replace the computer harness clip, but just stuck it back in the computer and used silicon all over it to hold it there - looks like crap guess ill have to do that myself the hood, which was replaced as it got bent in the crash, doesnt close properly on the side that was hit - gotta push it down again after slamming it but still sticks up on that side a 1/2 inch so rain will probably get in - will see The Fan belt that is near the Radiator (dont know what that is called) was not replaced, it had a sought of cover over it that was broken up in the crash, in stead of replacing it, they just snapped off the top part so you can see the fan belt - I guess cheaper for them right?? Looks like crap also. Battery - basically spent a month from when the insurance company "cleared" it, trying to sought out who was paying for the darn battery, as regardless someone needed to put a battery in and test drive it, which they only just did last week after I gave them $100 for a battery. To end, Chrysler Dealership here was the body shop, and where I bought the jeep originally in 2001, cost me $31,000. One signal light has issues, it works but is too fast. Insurance company wouldnt pay for my battery, even though the battery was perfect for 4 years up until the accident, they seem to think a 4 year life for a battery is too much!! (spent half hour arguing against that one but gave up as just wanted to get the jeep released, and that was 2-3 weeks ago). The last straw was today when I go there at 10.30 to pick it up an im told I have to pay the body shop $400 dedectable .. now i know the insurance comapny mentioned that but never said I had to pay the body shop that .. ive had (yeah I know sucks) 4 accidents before, and never had to pay the body shop a penny. They just raised the yearly fees. okay so far I paid for the battery, and now they wanted more money. So i told them well I dont have it, keep it and sell it, see if I care! LOL I was teed off, having not eaten since the night before i just wanted some breakfast, and by now, it was 12 noon. So much for "just picking up" the jeep! Ok so they told me call the insurance company, which I did. I explained I knew nothing of paying this $400 to get the jeep, as well noone told me nothing (they think we are physic around here). I understood I owed the insurance company $400 but since i just paid them last month, insurance for 2 vehicles, that I would imagine I can pay them over time, or they just charge me next year. I mean I paid a huge sum for a jeep that I wasnt even driving, plus insurance on a seperate car also. Not to mention it was after 3 months needing licencing and inspection again, so thats another $200, plus the monthly loan on it ive been paying of $700 a month ( the bank here got me by the ba**s but thats another story for another night). Bottom line was I had the cash in my pocket but needed it for other more important things (ciggies, bud, yah know!), plus the mechanic side was a botched job, and the darn hood doesnt close properly ... course calling the insurance guy after that, on lunch or away from desk, reason for the last month was he was on vacation and nothing started happeing until I went down there in person and started cussing!! Anwyay, long story and long day, jeep is back and in action, for now at least Just gotta keep the bank off my back now .. cause that would just tip the scale at this point!! Arghhh, Yours truly 1 Stressed out Rory