Jomadav

Yes, you can see it on the pictures. Camera is connected to the nano router (RJ45 cable) and to the battery. I did see that in the picture. Just wanted to be sure .

Access Point mode. I have it with fixed address 192.168.1.18 (so it won't conflict when I connect it to my wired network); DHCP enabled, so when I connect my tablet, laptop, etc, with wifi it will connect to the network without any manual config. and after you have it set up, you are connecting the cameras network cable directly to the single lan/ wan port on the router?

I ordered a TP-Link TLWR702N and just got it. I also ordered a battery similar to the one you have. The battery works fine, but the router won't set up. What "mode" do you have yours in? I connected mine to the interweb and looked at it through it's mgt page - changed IP and mode several times - no luck at all. Ready to return it. Any help?

that is very nice. I should look into doing something like that. Currently we are doing a large warehouse so what do you figure you get for range out of something like that? Do you need an active network connection or can the set up be used without? Do you strictly use it directly connected? Is the router is connected directly to the camera and you are on the lift/ ladder with your tablet? Great pics. Thank you too cool

another Pinpoint Module I meant.

Is that the Razberi unit? if it is the one you're talking about, I have seen the same reviews. It appears to be under several different labels also. Maybe I need another option that is more in line with what other installation companies are currently doing. I also am considering buying a netbook or chrome book and a nother pin.. We currently use an extension cord with a single port Poe injector. It works great but I need to be able to send a tech out on a lift with a handheld manager as well as using my laptop back at the head end. Kind of stuck in the middle here.

I am looking for advice on buying a setup monitor/ tool. My budget is $300-$600 I am looking for handheld, "useable" screen, provides it's own PoE, and works with most manufacturers. I understand I could look online, but I want to hear from other shops on what they are using and staying with. Proven stuff. I already have a Veracity Pinpoint and like it. We need a self-contained handheld now.

We have an SES Cat.2 phone entry system installed at a customer location that has "a radio station" faintly coming through the speaker when panel is dialing a resident. I have disconnected the phone line and put a buttset on it - it is on the line itself. If I remember right, in Electronics school I heard somewhere you can place a capacitor across the speaker or phone line somewhere and stop it. Does anyone hear know how to do this or know what I am talking about? Or is it a Phone Co. fix?

I have the exact same issue right now. Do you know what software/ Firmware you currently have in the TN? I have a 16TN that works perfectly - but will not go through the DDNS.

I would not "cut and re-solder" a video connection. If your going to go that route you WILL have video quality issues down the road. Open connection, cold solder joint, RFI interference, etc. You can get a 2in. hole in the back of a 2 gang weather box (grey box) ...."a lot of room to work with". Silicone around top and sides to shed water, leave bottom edge open to drain against wall.

Yes. This stuff is bullet proof. But humidity (alone) in an otherwise dry location will rust it terribly and it will look like Qrap, so you're going to have to do a very good job painting it. In addition, don't assume that all threaded joints are waterproof; I would suggest that you use a good joint compound to assure there is no water intrusion. I was going with the "Indoors" part of the question I guess - my fault. If it's outdoors mounted, yes you have to waterproof all joints - I use regular pipe dope - no Teflon tape. I also use a product called P.O.R. ( Paint Over Rust) for exterior stuff - DuPont I think? About $30.00 a quart in black and it paints over rust/steel/nasty metal easily and holds up really well in the weather. It's made for under carriages of trucks and trailers. Another cool one is "rattle-can" under truck body spray - for smaller stuff. Takes a bit to get the hang of an even coat, but it fills cracks, scratches, pitts, pinholes, etc. in 1 or 2 coats. I try and do all my fabrication and prep/ painting in the shop first then bring it out to the site as a complete unit. Looks professional to the cust. that way and keeps the job less messy...

...."L" ?

Black wall plumbing pipe. Home Depot. The pipe comes in standard sizes and 10 ft lengths, most of the time you can find it already threaded for the size on your housing. If not they can cut it and thread it for you. Also they have flanges for the other end (top) with bolt holes for mounting. Very rigid, clean looking, and accepts paint if you clean it first.

My 2 cents worth.....When we have to run on the exterior and then back in, we use schedule 40 PVC and dump into a "Bell" box ( 2 gang w/ Stainless Steel cover), then use the rear knock-out for the entrance into the house. You can make the opening in the back of the box any size you want as long as you can still mount it. Also, not mentioned here yet - by code you have to use Duct Seal to plug the hole around the wires into the house and also have a "weep" hole in the bottom of the box/ fitting outside. Try to keep the run "out of the center" of the wall, go towards the edges/corners or horizontal until you can come down. It's not always the prettiest option, but opening drywall can cost a lot more.

I am looking suggestions for a small, cheap, light, fast WL router to use for work. Similar to the ones people need when they travel. What I am doing is installing IP video cameras and for aiming and focusing I want to view them through the customers network. The problem is they don't always have WiFi and I need to have my laptop close to the cameras to cut down on walking. So, I am thinking if I just add a temporary WL access point/ router while I am doing the job it would make life a lot easier. My thoughts are to just to simply "plug and play" the WL router from job to job. Any suggestions on brand-type-price?