wyattwic

Axis is a bit above my budget, $500 is my total budget. Hardware, controller, software, total. Problem with the bluetooth lock is that I need logging, we have lots of outside contractors and codes change at least once a day. My deadline is approaching, I think I am just going to take a leap of faith and see where it goes.

Hello everyone! I own a very small business out of my house and I am getting tired of stolen keys. I decided to install my own access control system but I am having issues getting a exact design and install plan together. Help would be very appreciated! My current setup in mind is for two doors. Each door has a RFID/Keypad combo (http://goo.gl/lO9gTt) and a door strike. The knobs are locked with an emergency key. So far the design is good however I need to have these units accessible over the network so that codes and cards can be enabled/disabled as needed. I was looking into something like this control board (http://goo.gl/PS7LJo) however I am unsure as to how I should integrate RFID/Keypad combo into the controller. Tip and suggestions would be awesome!

You can get $20 PIR sensors from radio shack. They have a 12VDC in with a simple NC out.

Most DVRs record the audio channels separately but provide audio output on all channels at the same time. My suggestion is to offload the channel you would like to check on and review its audio. Beyond that, no one will be able to help you without the basic information on your system.

First question: Using a PIR from a security light will work, just make sure its connected to it as a NO/NC output, not on a active VAC. Second Question: If the menu you are talking about is accessed directly on the camera, there may be IO outputs built into it. This is common on the more expensive cameras to provide redundancy. Third question: The best option is to disable the security light. If thats not possible, find a way to shield the light from going to the camera. Use duck tape to make a shade. Fourth question: When it comes to your new camera and that security light, try to keep the light source itself out of the cameras view. This will minimize the issues it may have with it. A camera with BLC will do you well in this situation. I hope this helps!

With what you have, you can go two ways. You can keep those cameras, get a proper DVR and install it. (Installing them is not very hard, jut slightly physically demanding) You can sell those cameras and get a full new system. My suggestion is to go and sell what you have and get an affordable system, you may have no idea how well those cameras were stored and maintained as well as you may not have much operational time remaining on them.

This project was aimed to be a DIY hands-on learning experience. The whole wireless setup cost me almost nothing due to all parts being taken from defective electronics. Now I have a customer who is interested in a wireless setup similar to my own. Im too lazy to go about creating another set of modified wireless bridges. Time to dip into my ubiquiti surplus! Equipment costs be about $60 per link with a insane range.

My suggestion to keep it low cost is to use analog based PTZ cameras on a web enabled DVR. This would allow for the audience to manipulate the camera and zoom in on the animal. PM me and I will gladly help you over the phone. I got nothing better to do this weekend.

In my line of work I do CCTV, IP based cameras, networking as well as computer repairs. I have a home built tool box. Its heavy as heck, but it has "wagon wheels" and can easily be loaded and locked into my Ford Transport thanks to the ramp. This is what I keep on me at all times. The tool box cost me $500 to build and equip with tools. A IR thermometer with laser A laser range finder Assorted precision screwdrivers Assorted hex and torque, keys and multitools Assorted hex, torque, fillips, flats, square and various anti-theft bits. Battery operated 7" LCD with adapters, charger and a extra battery. Electrical Tape of assorted colors, lots and lots of it! (I use yellow for video, red/black for positive/negative, orange for Cat5/Cat5e, Green for Cat6/Cat6a and blue for POE.) Brother label maker and a extra cartridge. Assorted screws, bolts, nuts and anchors. Assorted replacement camera lenses. Black and Decker 12v cordless drill, an extra battery and a firestorm 1 hour charger. Various mirrors, picks and hooks (think dentistry). Fishtape, 50 Ft. Nylon rope, 1/4"x200' Assorted solder, soldering iron and de-soldering iron. Various crimping tools Tie-wraps In the way of consumables, I would suggest keeping the following on hand. CAT6 Cable, Shielded. CAT6 Shielded Terminators RG59 Siamese cable BNC and coaxial compression terminators

The 5GHZ band is not a problem with a properly made directional dish antenna but you also need to keep in mind that it can run in the 2.4GHZ band as well. Lower frequencies can cut through obstacles and foliage much better than higher frequencies but with enough transmit power a higher frequency can make it. For this setup they are all running 5GHZ. The reason why is because I am pulling 8mbps from each camera and I would like to be able to pull more. EDIT: Next time I go up I will take a few photos.

Sorry for the slow reply. Right now I am utilizing a heavily hacked 802.11 setup. The bridges were amped up and a fine tuned directional "dish" antenna was made from scrap steel and foils. Using a home-brewed laser range finder, I found out that the longest distance was near 6350FT. (as you can tell, I like lasers). In regards to the laser communications, I am experimenting for another project but so far the best idea I have had so far was to use an old fiber optic card and "upgrade" the transmission source as well as "widen" the reception area.

That would be my idea exactly if it were 24VDC, but I have seen a few heater/blowers that take AC. I have only seen that on the mil-spec enclosures though. EDIT: I am brain dead. Never mind. Just get another transformer.

I havent used zone minder in years. I was under the impression that there was a bit of a debate between Zone Minder, iSpyConnect and Motion. ZM and iSpy appear to be the same in design goals. Motion is a daemon with no GUI. I guess its time to put on my hard hat and experiment. Ill probably post a review on them all soon.

Heck, if you don't already have level2 access with Q-See I wouldn't mind hooking you up at cost. (it isn't like it costs me anything anyway).

I was looking for a free and open source software however this does seem to be an okay solution. Would anyone be able to suggest anything that that is in that area?