cctv_down_under

Firstly check that the cam corder is putting out a signal, to do this test it from the output of the cam corder to the input of the TV, lets get the signal working first..also beware quite often you need to install the card and drivers before you install the software or else the software will never know the card exists...Rory is right...go and look for an enable toggle in the settings and make sure you turn it on, check to look for setting like "Video Source" or "Video Standard" and make sure that you are using the right standard for your area or more importantly your camcorder.

It really could be numerous things..the things to check. 1/ Did you make a partition for the video, is it possible you are recording to the root drive and strangling the system. 2/ Do you have corrupted data on your drive...to check open the folder containing the video recordings, open each cameras folder and look at the folder names, they should run in date sequence if there is an old date that is out of whack then it is likely corrupted, the easiest way to find the corrupted folder containing the files is to change the folder view to THUMBNAIL, thumbnail view will preview the contecnts of the folder on the folder icon, the ones that do not do this either have corrupted video segments or have nothing in them. 3/ Stress test your ram 4/ If your card has a hint bridge controller then you should be using Intel chipset, if not it will probably still work. 5/ Check that the fan is still running on the video card. 6/ If using multipe drives, are they too close together causing overeating?

Actually i am curious too, all my time in the industry and never understood it, we buy siamese RG59 and 24020 cable, I aways wondered if the first digit in 24020 meant rated for 24v or 24 strands of copper?

I have tested, used and sold both products, mind you some time ago, all software compression cards struggle becasue of the bus speeds availale, therefore you are limited to how mnay cameras can have high resolutions. I have used the Geo since it first started out, good lord that was a long time ago th ol Gv100 and Gv200's and before that even when they OEM'd it, Geo are a huge company now and FINALLY have seemed to overcome the QA headaches that they used to haev when releasing software (they used to release it far to early. I am not sure but I think Aver used to make the cards for Geovision, they have a solid product but they are not fuly devoted to it like Geovision is, but being a true manufactorer you can rely on a cheaper price...my view is that the Geovision has too many features to be compared with Aver and it has advanced past the Aver product

Nice to meet you andrew, how about emailing me some info on the products you sell?

playing back pre recorded video will not use the DSP, if there is a tv out option see if that still works, if it does then it could be the capture chips

It almost sounds like the DSP part has been fried, but just out of curiosity, if you defualted the unit, did it change video standard...IE from PAL to NTSC etc? Also have you tried connecting a single camera only?

Have you re powered the DVR again yet?

Thats three more for me!!!

Time to catch up

OK

I agree..very well put

I havent read everyone elses but here is my suggestions. 1/ A skin that can be added to camera to blend it into the colour scheme of the roof 2/ A second output that can be used as a service monitor output or to go driectly to a monitor 3/ A detachable plug in so that you can wire the power then plug it in with one hand 4/ Lens adjustment controller extenders, simple screw ins that can be extended onto the lens adjustments so that when using a housing you do not have to reach into the housing if using a flip top lid 5/ A better design for adjusting a lens...how mnay times do you go to tighten the adjusters and then bump it out of focus...perhaps a motorised option so that you push a button and hold it on for incremental adjustments so that when you are in focus you simply take your finger off the button 6/ A camera with built in lens and movable back focus through a web interface sot hat after install you can zoom, adjust and focus remotely, this means you can do a night focus from home. 7/ A distribution amplifier built into the camera for long runs 8/Cameras that look like lighting fixtures to make it look neat. 9/ A plug in device that can handle 232 data for text overlay, so that you can run a converted 232 to 485 on two wires to a camera from a register and overlay at the camera itself. 10/ Dip switches on the top of the camera so that flip lid housings can be used to allow easy changes. 11/ Upgrades and settings changed over the coax cable from the DVR end by running 485 data on a different frequency on the coax cable 12/ Digital zoom, breaking the image on the CCD into 4 zones then when movement is detected in a zone..by the camera.....then it zooms in one level and centralises the zone that had activity in the middle of the screen. 13/ Area programable BC but several areas all set to different levels 14/ Dynamic Shutter that adjust according to light level 15/ Digital LUX reader to show the lux level that the CCD is recieving Ok thats enough for now

You need twisted pair to control the device, what you are seeing is the last settings that the PTZ had...IE its last presets that make up what is known as a tour, you need to find out how to default the PTZ so that the presets are gone or find a manual to edit them onscreen, each PTZ is not the same with wiring, but usually you run three wires tx- tx+ and Ground, you need to terminate(on most PTZ's) the last PTZ in the group and each PTZ will haeva number that it owns, by dip switches so that the controller knows which one it is talking to, for instance if that PTZ you bought was set to cam 5 then trying to control cam 1 will not work....your first step would be to attach at least two wires to the controller on TX- Out and TX+ Out, then use a multi meter and move the joystick to see if the voltage changes (very minute change) the voltage chage is what drives the camera motors either l,r,up,down, zoom etc, so make sure the keyboard talks first..you can buy a 485 testing kit that will measure it for you!

Check the firewall option in windows, also be wary because even though this can be disabled, third party programs like Symantic Client Security can have it enabled but not show it as enabled (in windwows firewall section) and after installing the program that enables the firewall it defaults the windows firewall back on and you would not think to look

Thomas is right, the more pixels that will change will require MPEG and H264 to record references and that data will possbly be bigger than MJPEG, This is also why you should never use MPEG for PTZ's that will be set onto a tour...so choosing a DVR that supports multiple compressions would definately benefit you and that is most likely to occur on a PC Platform. Keep in mind that flashing light and high temperature fast changes are going to require a half decent lens speed and a camera that can see a wide dynamic range, not to mention the range of colours that will be associated with the lighting, so chose a 15bit camera as it can see more light levels and colours than other cameras.

One of the biggest problems with cheap siamese cable is that it has two issues, firstly a low copper count, that means it breaks easily, the other is that many cheap manu's put the sheath on the cable and shrink it down with heat, this means that if the outer sheath melts onto the power in any way it will be fine coiled up but straightening the cable and the bit that has melted on will break as it has no give, look for cables that have french chalk or plastic wrap as this lets the cable slide on unravelling, quality cable is a must, copper prices have risen making many suppliers buy inferior products, so be on the lookout

PS love the signature, big DA fan

march only sells to qulaified business partners IE you need to get qualified first, flick me a PM and I will send you rough prices

Intellix will give you more features but the march is better made, it has guilt in ups and the IP support is reasonable, i use march only becasue of the awesome POS engine, they are very stable but very expensive

I agree with the weak signal diagnosis, check the voltage at the camera (under load), or buy a Bosch XF with the built in distribution amplifier

Us ehte new Video Senry camera if budget is not an issue, it is like using 4 x 10 meagpixel cams and can cover a wide area with one camera, it allows an open view to be covered by one cam as apposed to using several and is abou the same price as multiple PTZ devices

Adjust your gain settings, bright light in low light will cause the gain to rise making the reflective plate too bright, you need a cam that dynamically can change modes and shutter speeds, adjust the level then the gain then adjust the shutter spead, if your cam supports peak level adjust this too, mnake sure you hae an appropriate shutter speed, the bosch cams can dynamically adjust shutter speed and can have hartd wired triggered modes which can help...failing that a cam with inversion will help, the black on th plate..IE the numbers will be bright but the reflective will be dark and the headlights also dark

I think security Consultant is talking about Ciffe video resolution not the resolution required, it is possible but it would be working very hard and very unlikely to be stable, that is why networked IP cams are better for this as the compression is already done and therefore it is not a resource hog, the same goes for hardware compression, and to be honest if you were using 64 inputs you should be using a NVR and a NVS (network video server and a network video recorder, most large Ip isntalls require you to have one computer to view and one just for recording.

just out of curiosity..is the ptz the kind you buy and then add an environmental housing to, if so, did you remove the inner dome before adding the enviro housing?