cctv_down_under

Does anyone know of a device that can take aa standard video input and rotate it 90 degrees and then output it?

I have not read Vlado's new book, his old one was my bible, i know him personally and I can tell you that this book would not suit your brother because it is indeed like Vlado, very correct, very complex, i found it informative but I already knew a LOT, is there much about digital in the new book? I have done the Stam course through CD's and although very outdated it is a great starting point!

I am pretty sure that my intention was exactly that, to watch out for manufactorers specs as they are not entirely accurate (well actually, they are acurate just misleading). I used to only use B/W and Extreme gear, but since using this camera i have very little need to use them very much. I agree about abvertising hype, but I am a firm believer of trying things first, unfortunately, you will never get me to use another camera, so I can not do the comparison for you, even though I have seen it done many times. I agree that Bosch put a big Hype into the market after buying Phillips out, and I have read some of your other posts on the topics at hand, however, I do not work for Bosch or Panasonic and I do speak from very good experience. The truth is that being 15 bit it allows the camera to see more light levels, more scales of colour if you wish to put it that way, this allows the camera to see ranges of colours that other cameras can not, it is not all in the CCD processing it is in a lot of things like electronics and lense etc as explained above, however the data path that is available is akin to describing the difference between a PCI Bus and the new PCI Bus, I can not for the life of me remember the name of it, but it is wider allowing more data. I do not think you can make a blanket statement that B/W is the only way to go without at least trying these two brands out, you are however very correct that specs are not always specs and manufacturers can be very misleading indeed. All I can tell you is that I have done a LOT of installs in low light and I USED to only use B/W and Extreme CCTV gear if no lighting was available. I can honestly tell you I hardly ever need to use the Extreme Gear now because of these two cameras and believe me I would not change my philosophy or outlook on the subject, just to follow some marketing hype. They are excellent cameras and I have used both with great success and I have seen many sites (mainly clubs) where identification could have been achieved, however B/W cameras were used when there was no need. I did not say B/W was not good I simply said that these two cams can almost make it as good but still give you colour for much longer.

I have to say that fully tweaked the Pano, is awesome for night and day pictures, it's ability to mechanically adjust the ccd makes it an awesome camera for both day and night! I disagree however with the thought that it is hard to get good images in both lighting conditions, and infact I find 1 camera in particular very easy to use! I use the LTC0495 camera and it is very easy to set for night images, in fact it has a night mode which can be set at the camera or from your laptop, quite simply the mode options are the FIRST options in the menu, so basically all you have to do is click once and your into night mode, and this would be enough for most people, I usually back the gain off just a little, mainly because the camera is FAR too low light sensitive and they set it to maximum condition, and because I am not a big fan of the frame intergration delay, I back this off too. I have to admit most low light cameras are tricky to set up but hardly with Bosch or Panasonic, they both can be adjusted without touching the camera and if you are too lazy to sit in a reclining leather chair and make an adjustment, then you could just click it to night mode. The biggest failing with the other low light cameras that I have seen is they do not have a dynamic shutter, the best thing about the Bosch and Pano is that even in low light mode the shutter can adjust on it's own. Fast objects require shutter speeds that make for low light, but the camera can adjust back to normal speeds on it's own to take advantage of a slower object or an absence of fast objects. I used to save the settings to my laptop and just update each night camera, but I realized that the 30 seconds that this took was actually longer than it took to click into night mode and adjust the gain. I disagree with all that say "just go B/W" because these cameras are capable of keeping colour for very long range and I always suggest to stay in colour for as long as possible, because "The guy that threw the punch had a red shirt with green checkers" is a lot better description than "It was a checkered shirt of some description". I have to admit , B/W is a cheaper option for low light and it is worth considering but if you have a good budget then I would not look past these two brands. The one thing also to look for is a camera that uses the right kind of chip, some chips have pixels that are curved, the reason is that the light concentrated onto the pixels that are square, causes gaps and shadowing and does not allow as much light to be gathered, so magnifying the light and it's gathering ability is excellent and is better than using electronics to magnify (oh yes i know it is still electronics) the ability and it will not cause the camera to overshoot (appear too bright during the day). I am by no means an expert in this area but I have done many shootouts and nothing comes close to Bosch, Pano, Ikegami cameras for this low light ability with clarity.

I am up against this product on a major project and would like to know the pro's and con's of the system, does anyone have some first hand experience? http://americandynamics.net/products/intellex_home.aspx Cheers!

and doing it sober

Anyone?

So do I!!!

Sorry but some of that is incorrect from just having a brief look. They have a model that does 480/400fps and it would appear they havea management software, they do have an I.P. cam system, but not a hybrid system. the ultra version does 4 cif the rest only do 2cif, excepting the I.P. version of course. They all have smart search,

Nothing compares to the SDIII or the XF from Panasonic and Bosch respectively you will see very little grain if you use these models. My first suggestion is you ascertain if the customer can afford a 1/2" chip, if this is the case then you will increase your low light perfomance. As for your "know it all boss" the light meter... You can not measure the light that way for several reasons: Manufacturers cheat on specs and you really should learn how to read the specifications carefully. FSTOP The FSTOP will determine how much light can get to your CCD (technically not correct because of T Factor) but it is an actual measurement, the lower the FSTOP the better light lens, keep in mind if you are using a camera that has a removable IR filter then you need a IR corrected lens and I would suggest this kind of lens and camera for your application. TFACTOR Forget the hype surrounding FSTOP the fact is that although FSTOP is a measure it is exactly that...just the calculated capabilty of the lens, the true measure is the Transmition Factor, the quality of the manufacture (ground) of the lens, the less abhorations the more accurately the light gets onto the sensor so the more light it can recieve. ASPHERICAL Aspherical lenses are better at concentrating the light directly on the sensor, because of the shape of the glass, they are usually ground more accurately as well which also benefits the application. READING SPECS On a camera spec sheet you will see a LUX rating for the camera however this can be rated with several factors, for example most manufactorers rate LUX ratings on 50 IRE (that is half full video strength) full video strength is 100IRE, so it should say at what rating it was taken, the other important factor is the scene reflectance value, most manufactorers wont mention it but imagine using a light meter in a room that is all white...or looking at snow, then the reflected light that is available would be roughly 90% so therefore 90% scene reflectance, but if you were to look at a river at night or a carpark with grey asphalt, then the reflectance would be low, so look for a scene reflectance figure. Do not forget also that manufactorers rate the LUX of the camera by stating the FSTOP of the lens used in testing, if the FSTOP is very low (like a $1000 lens) and that is what they used for the test then the lux rating will be much higher, many manufactorers rate their specs with very low FSTOP lenses so look for this figure as well. There is usually a rating for Scene Illumination as well because the light at the scene can be brighter than the light at the camera so they can cheat this way as well....so firstly look FSTOP then Scene Reflectance then Scene illumination then IRE Measure and then you can compare. I do not agree that good colour can not be achieved without noise and using a Bosch or Pano will allow you to adjust the Gain setting so little or no noise is added to the picture and if tweaked correctly (and thank god without having to go to the camera...over coax) you can set your camera for ultimate low light performance and still achieve colour. I may be slightly wrong about some of this but I believe most of this is reasonably accurate, therefore I hope it helps you decide, the Ganz cams tend to have too much blue in the picture (not sure if you mean Blueish or Blue Pixels...big difference), you can adjust the RGB settings on most models of Ganz cams to accomodate for this. My suggestion would be either the 1/3" or 1/2" XF Daynight camera or the Pano SDIII if you have the budget for it and go for a good quality aspherical day/night treated lens and set it into night mode then adjust the gain back a little and if your customer complains..tell him to shove it!!!!! PS, most manufactorers LOVE to show off the low light abiltiy of their cams so invite them to do a demo or loan you one!! hope this helped!!!!

http://www.marchnetworks.com

there are so many different types (let alone grades...that's a whole new story) of Sony chip, but yes they do make very good CCD's indeed, each one is made differently so serves different purposes.

the only way that you will get a reasonaby accurate outdoor trigger is to use an outdoor PIR, there are very few that work successfully, the only one i have managed is the Detection Systems...Now Bosch outdoor model and then wire that to the DVR

I want to do site surveys with a digital camera, I would like to take actual shots of what the customer will see by setting a digital camera to the lens adjustment on the zoom lens that would be the same as what the CCTV camera would see. I know that the CCD size will affect the angles differently, but would it be fair to say that if I stick to 1/3" CCTV cameras and a 1/3" Digital SLR that the measurements would be the same and the same angle of view would be the same, I can adjust resolution to as close as I can to get TV Lines however the compression mechanism will obviously be different. Basically I want to be able to simply take shots from the SLR up the ladder and put them into a proposal, then once accepted fire the information off to the installer so he knows what he is looking to install and what he needs to see from each camera. I welcome your thoughts??

I agree with most points, I know I stated that I wanted to say "this is what you get" but I don't actually want to do it if it can be avoided, I guess the problem is that for wide angle views on the proposal I currently have to merge images which is not ideal, and niether is having a caption saying "this will be wider than shown", I thought of a pole with a cs mount built in that was extendable and a camera with the ability to have a remote on a lead. I would say I am still going to try it, so any further suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Gosh, now I know why Installers rave about the Bosch PTZ, you do not need a keyboard or even a data cable, you can use the Bilinx tool (fairly cheap) device that communicates with the PTZ over the coax cable the best part is you can even use it to program presets and every function of the camera, even the address which you need to actually manually change at the camera head for most PTZ's

It sounds like your issue is with gain control, when the camera has to view dark, it no longer has as strong a signal, to boost the signal the camera will add an automatic gain to the video, the trade off is that the noise associated with the gain will be magnified. Firstly I would try adjusting sensitivity then adjusting the gain settings on the Geo system or get a camera that has DNR, Dynamic Noise Reduction, this will sample every frame and only send the one with the least noise. My suggestion would be that there is only one way into the container (correct?) and if it is unlikely that it can be entered in any other way, I would set Geo up to record after hours only when the door is opened or a true motion detector is activated, it is not expensive to do, just requires some extra wiring and the I/O option.

That was my point, however there is even more to consider, for example a 8mm on a 1/3' ccd, will have a different angle to a 8mm on a 1/2" ccd etc etc, I also wondered if there was anything else to take into consideration?

I actually need the images to put into our proposals, so they have to be able to see EXACTLY what the CCTV camera can see, we eould like to say "this is what you will see" obviously taking into consideration compression etc

Thanks so much!!!

This is what I am after 20â€

Rory, I do not suppose you know who distributes this gear in Australia do you?

What can anyone tell me about this DVR product, both good and bad would be excellent to know about, I have heard that the Point Of Sale Integration is awesome!

Bosch LTC0495

I can not imagine why more people are not using them and am very surprised that not many people in here have heard of them either....is it a price issue because from what I saw it was an awesome product