cctv_down_under

The new boards are and thats when you will see the difference

http://www.boschsecurity.us/index.aspx?contentid=1 Also if you go to the main page you can read on the XF Daynighter and its win in the NSCA Innovations in Security Technology... now i am just being a smart arse Better description is the downloaded product sheet

I disagree with the above statement especially if your using good equipment and can afford little compression... also by upgrading to a card like that you are usually getting hardware compression which is more reliable and makes the CPU work less, so worth the money.. I believe many are heading this way and I know Geovision are already selling these cards... I think... mind you most standalones will already do this. Regards, GC

Rory, i think you will find he is a design engineer or consultant, he is simply writing a spec. NO I dont mean that many single UPS devices in one room, I assume your DVR's are not all in one room and if they are at different sites, then 1x UPS to a device is good or some larger UPS's will speak to more than one machine at a time. although 1500va may be enough for several be carefull that the UPS can speak to all that it is connected to to shut it down, no point to have 1 UPS for four devices if it can only shut one down. If all your DVR's are in different locations then use single UPS for each or if they are all in one room (mind you if they were wouldnt you go I.P) then get a rackmounted UPS head end that can speak to all the devices, some can do it over ethernet, and simply add battery packs in rack mounted format until you have the back up you need, so you can have 1 biggin or loads of small ones, biggin will be more expensive but my bets is it will cover all 6 power problems.

DVR needs 1.1 volt peak to peak, analougue monitor only 1v peak to peak, so doubt its power, sounds like bad termination, was it flickering or rolling though? PS what cable did you use?

Actually rory, thats what they are working on now, the XF features in a dome camera, our domes already are IP66 rated and take 120pounds of pressure, so they are already vandal, but at present they only have some of the XF features in the dome, like Night Sense etc. I believe they will release this fairly shortly, then you get all these features and dome ability.

Most Mobo's these days are not anywhere near that price rory.. sheesh you get ripped. As for digital display just use a vid card with a DVI ouput, most good cards have an adapter already for this

i have never tried the Sony so I can not comment at all on it, only to say the 620 won a lot of shootouts and awards and in my opinion is the best camera I have ever seen. as for 2 way audio, well VCS does this (a bosch product) it is a little module that can stream MPEG2 and obviously Audio inside that stream, quite impressive, but yes I do fullay agree we should have it built into our DVR's by now

As scott mentioned above some routers have this facility of mapping built in, it simply traces your I.P. mapping

did the same but shifted to USB options only cause mainboards stopped having enough 232 ports

Some routers actually support NO-IP type services

Bingo metz.. and the most major reason why PC based DVR's geta bad wrap, corrupted data from bad power, I never sold a DVR without a UPS we built it into the prices, it saved us THOUSANDS

cool thanks for the update... now if only they knew how to manage their business they really would be good to deal with.

ahhhh, you have enabled those extra drives havent you?

Yeh never really understood that.. i like the way they offer the small remote view size for the xp remote desktop, but hay even the Bosch standalone has remote setting ability

Oh So TRUE!!!!!!!!

I agree with Metz. There are many advatanges to individual UPS.. this way you can get a read out from each power source to find problems, plus if one circuit goes not all are lost. The communication is imperitive to shut down the DVr because windws DVR's store unclosed avi files in momory therfore powerouts lead to bad sectors on the HDD, I have never sold one without, the problem is that going for cheap individual UPS devices means you may be covered for little more than a crash, you need to choose between "line interactive" UPS devices, one will switch in when power goes off but can allow big spikes though the other will filter everything first. The thing is there are 6 main power problems and you need to choose a UPS according to what cover you want to give.. for instance some cheaper units offer Buck and Boost which will lift up the power if undervoltage and trim down if overvoltage, this small feature can not only prevent a fire it makes your powersupply for your DVR which never stops, run at the same voltage all the time, its kinda like tuning your engine, this will lead to excellent results. Therefore you get what you pay for in UPS devices so if you want o go cheap the individual is great but unless you pay more you wont be covered for everything unless you have a filtered circuit.. but if you can afford it a rack mounted device with many ouputs to every DVR and batteries will usually cover every power problem so it si a matter of choosing between dirty power and safety or simply covering a crash.

Cheapest option is to insert a card .. but be prepared for headaces.. buy a cheap 1ch DVR (standalone) and a really low light day night camera and lens and that should get you results

You dont need a plasma, what Rory is saying is that if you wanted to watch all cameras at once you need a big view.. most remote applications these days allow you to connect to multiple DVR's (one brand) at one time to view all cameras at once. but what Rory is saying is that if you had 16 cams at each site then 48 cams on one screen would mean each image would be so small that it would be to hard to watch unless you had a bocoo sized montior. Lets face it unless you are onsite with these cameras your not going to want to connect to 48 cameras at one time anyhow, perhaps one DVr at a time therfore up to 16 cameras per time. you could add a single ch DVR and leave the mux, but then you limited with image size and features for searching, in relaity it would be best to have 3 DVR's the same and open 16cams max at a time or make a gorup list of your fave cams from each store to watch remotely.. Rory is spot on about standlone being better quality to view than PC, after all resolution is what prosecutes and Standalones are king for this the GE is awesome so too is Bosch Divar and Dedicted Micros. iIf you go for PC's then you will get more features, but less resolution and therin lies the choice. reliability is better on a standalone but PC's are good if well built.. however that is rare these days. My suggestion is throw the Mux..sell it on Ebay put in 3 x Standalones and watch one shop at atime to reduce bandwidth, that way you only need one monitor.. or run two times the applications on one pc and use a twinview video card allowing to XVGA montiors from one PC

I would check a few things.. 1/ Is there a termination switch on the back of the monitor. 2/ Can I also clarify if it is a flicker problem or a rolling picture? the fact that your mux is stable suggests that the problem occurs with syncronisation of the signal, the easiest way to test this is to find the camera that flickers/rolls and then find its power, reverse the polarity and see if the problem still occurs.. of curse that would only be if it was more a roll/than a flicker. 3/ Fluero light hum can cause flicker and some cameras have a flicker switch that can be enabled. 4/ look I know I work for Bosch but an XF cam allows you to remotely adjust Sync, add distribution amplification and check for flicker so try one out if nothing else works. My gut feeling is some kind of interference between the devices or a bad cable or a power supply that is overloaded so that a weaker signal is picked up by the mux but not switched out correctly as that may be more fussy.

I must say I agree with a lot of those posts, just a few points though.. With the Bosch cameras you dont have to use their DVR to configure and it is bidirectional and you can buy a simple tool for it. Rory, I dont know where you get your prices man, but you need to shop around, i have not found a listing here or anywhere else putting Bosch cameras anywhere near Pana for price, you mentioned $800 for the 1/2" well there has been plenty of links at $515 and lets face it not veryone is going to need the 1/2" As for Pana.. man awesome products, the SD3 is an excellent camera and the autobackfocus adjuster that moves the CCD inside the camera is an excellent feature, they also have dynamic noise reduction and a lot of other features, but Pana WAS the best and therfore had a pricetag to match, but now Bosch has more features and better results and a much better price tag and with 3yr warranty... hay yes I work for Bosch but i would have said that no matter whom i worked for, their cameras are excellent and I would have to say Ikegami is now better than Pana, Bosch have only had Phillips for short time and the XF was the result.. not bad at all. As for lenses.. I love Computar they are excellent lenses, so are Tamron actually anything using Japanese Glass is excellent but be wary... F Stop is not all that as F stop is purely a measurement, it is important the note made by coops about the abhorations on edges of badly ground glass, this is why aspherical lenses are much better as they tend to be ground with less abhorations and therfore can concentrate more accurate light onto the sensor.. Also keep in mind the T Factor.. this is the rating the lens has for accurately distributing the light that bounces inside the lens.. letting light in is math.. directing the light to the CCD is all about qulaity of machining and quality of material.. You will see benefits of using a cut filter so long as a dummy filter or a movable sensor can be implemented to allow a correct field of view to be unchanged, using corrected IR lenses will also help, but the best benefit of the rmeovable cut filter is that you can use IR light. Keep in mind if a camera has a IR Filter .. then it is simply a colour camera... they all have them.. not all are removable though.

Hang on it's been ten mins since that post surely version 14.6 is out by now

LOL @ ISA Slot, Rory PCI express video cards are faster than the ol AGP, and it's not just the video card, PCI E slots havea wider bus (well not technically) they allow more data and therfore faster recordings can be sent down the PCI bus leading to larger resolutions, I beleive Geo are working on making their cards PCI E in the not too distant future, but in truth hardware compression will eliminate some of the need and will become just as affordable, for now, Just simply stick to your dual carded PCI E Video Card and play loads of high res games, god knows I would if I could afford it!!

The best compression I have seen is MPEG2 after all that is a DVD style compression, obviously it differs to explain the compressions. Wavelet This is an awesome compression mechanism, if you can imagine filming a person doing news broadcast infront of a grey wall, well Wavelet analyses frame by frame, the detailed parts in the frames, for instance, the wall does not move and has the same contoured finish and is flat with little detail, therefore Wavelet wont attend as much detail to the wall but more to the contoured or moving parts of the picture, Wavelet is good for non detailed scenes and in my opinion gives very little loss indeed, when set to little compression it has an awesome result. JPEG Remember when you were a kid and you drew a stick man on every page of the telephone book and advanced his movement one page at a time so that it looked like he was walking, well JPEG is like this.. One single frame at a time, very big on file size but awesome for still pictures, when little compression is done it gives supurb results, however if heavy compression is used or stretching of detail by zooming you will often be dissapointed by JPEG. MPEG4 All the rage, Imagine you have a camera in a room which has a pedestal fan that is moving but nothing else in the picture has moved, well ...lets just break that down to frames or 5 still images instead of an AVI type file.. so we have 5 still shots (frames) well the scene (the room) has not changed in any way except the movement of the fan so to save space, MPEG4 will draw the area of movement on the last frame because the rest of the picture has not moved ... another example would be a man walking past a camera that is looking at a house... there is no need to re-draw the house so the man is overlayed onto the previous frame where he was not present and not having to draw that frame will save vital space. in short it means it sort of only records the moving bits and places it on used footage to save space.. aa bit like cuting and pasting an email signature into an email.. you wouldnt type it all again just to add it, you would simply overlay it as the rest had not changed, this makes this very fast for transmition and excellent when you need low bitrates and file sizes. I hope this helps

The 620 is an exceptional camera, but fairly overkill for most applications, it does have a true removable IR Cut filter... for those that don't know..and no I am not babying anyone.. just some might not understand..mind you I am no camera expert. All standard coour cameras have an IR filter, you may have seen a CCD with a green film look to it, well this is it... This blocks out the IR light that is output by the Sun so that a normal picture can be seen during day, but at night it blocks some IR light that exists, by removing this filter mechanicaly, you can get more light onto the sensor and you can use IR lighting equipment with greater effect. The 620 is 1/2 inch and therefore a much bigger sensor and therfore can recieve more light on it's surface, it costs bocoo amount to make 1/2 inch compared to 1/3 inch but the results are better, but unless you have a very dark scene with little reflectance it really isnt warranted, but if you do use one, be sure to use a IR corrected lens.