cctv_down_under

Picky Picky

I agree, the Bosch does the same, you can do all the configs throught the network and firmware and settings can be uploaded, this is a godsend, lets face it you dont want ur tech sitting there puching buttons when you can be doing it allover DSL remotely, and I also like the way Bosch lets you save the config file for each product, so if a DVR and cam were stolen and you had made settings like, frame rates or motion areas on the DVr and backlight on a cam, all you tech has to do is install it for you and then through the network you can simply upload the old settings....quite unique and quite handy... surely the first company to make a bidirectionsl link to systems especially cams that can also backfocus and focus the cams, what a time saver.. your monkey does the install, takes 5 mins and then you do the rest!! I like the Pana gear not bad at all, cant wait to see the sd3 when it comes out, heard a rumour it might even do what i mentioned above, but me doubts it!! Shame they are not represented well in this country because they really have some good product and a great name!!

Some cameras allow for it and some dont, some cams say that after switching that a level drop of a large amount must be achieved before it will change back, this stops the mechanical filter from wearing out and hnting from occurring, for instance the Bosch will change on a certain light level but will then drop doen the level for changing back so that quite a change is needed before the picture changes, lets face it the slight increment between the change is not going to make that much difference, but if the lights are swithced off you really want it to. Some cameras also allow you to set this level of change ...i think both the Pana and the bosch do this... one thing for sure only the bosch places the dummy filter to allow for correct focussing taking into consideration IR response One common misconception is that only Day nighters have filters, thATS CRUD, all coulur cams have these to level out the effect of the amount of IR light found in standard sunlight... infact a good way to tell if a camera is B/W or colour is a rule that mostly applies, " a green ccd menas a colour camera and grey means B/W, this is because the colour cam needs an IR filter

**** man they arent that expensive they are like peanuts.... well coconuts... really depends where you are coming from doesnt it?

nah localhost is 9 letters, 127.0.0.1 is nine digits, not enough saving, ****!!!! i could have typed it by now C U

LOL

trust you to know about Lube Thomas

5 mega IP cams have been around for while, but Thomas hit the nail on the head... Bandwidth!!!!

Couple of things, i have heard these cams are pretty reasonable, some cams do not have much tollerance between the switch in modes to B/W, this means at some point the cams will hunt (flick on and off between filters) the only one I have seen that doesnt is the Bosch oh and the Pana, the difference in the bosch removable filter, is it replaces the filter so that correct spectral response can be achieved (something like that) its called a dummy filter. i know the CS Mount Bosch rnage have a setting to allow you to fake the required adjustments to back focus, so that you need no ND filter at all, oh and no screws either, this means ytou can do a back focus without even having to change a thing. I have heard these cams are good at low light, but appaerntly they look like crud when you flash bright lights into them, try shining a torch towards it and see what the vertical smearing is like, I think that is the trade off, i think it overshoots, but I havent tested this myself. As for the networking you could always try the following.... set the web html server to on, then simply minimise the DVR and type 127.0.0.1 into your browser, this works on most machines and is a great way to demo a network viewer when you do not have another pc. failing that ther is always the Print Screeen button.

The new book by Vlado comes out next month, you will see it on this site http://www.cctvlabs.com/ i am sure it will be the best book

Alan, take a close look at the XF camera from Bosch, it has what is known as Dynamic Noise Reduction, it takes the frames and uses an algorythym to look for signal noise and if that is the case then it recognises it and only lets go of the frame with the least noise, if there is no other change... this has reduced false readings a lot.. also the XF lets you adjust a maximum gain range so that you can determine how much noise you allow onto your picture. The extended dynamic range being 15bit also helps as there is less noise in the picture as it can see more light levels

you may want to look at the DSP RTC card option, the reason is that two quads would cost the same plus less cables, you can simply run one cable with the muxed DSP signal and no need for quads then. the Divar from Bosch has a cabled keyboard controller for long distances and because the output is analogue, this makes it a good option

The pana cam, is not Bidirectional, it can communicate one way, it works by using a frequency on the Coax cable, your best bet is to go with a Bosch PTZ, the reason is they have Bilinx, this is an app that can run on a pc that does two way communication, the main reason I suggest this option is because, you can set all the presets and control the PTZ's from the bilinx as well, for example you can sit under the ptz and control its movement and settings up the coax. It also has several modes (xf cameras) this means you can have several saved setting options and just use a relay to change between them. For example a floodlight might come on at 8pm, then you might want to adjust the cam for this, well set the relay from the geo to close at 8pm and presto, whole new mode for the camera.

4 seconds 1.21mb, woooooo thats a hungry beast!!

you wont go wrong with the Divar rory, its about as good as the kalatel, it has some good stuff though, especially the networking options, that surpasses GE, mind you I would wait 1 month unitl the new firmware is released as it has web interface... this was missing before!! and oh yes, the latest hardware will have the Bilinx built into it. this machine will be the best soon, trust me they are doing a lot of work on it.

sorry i havent had much exposure to that kind of product, so wasnt aware, more an expert on DVR's so the keystone can speak directly to fire, PA, intusion and access products??

hay there Tim, your new SD3 looks great man, how long you been with rexcel, i see a lot pana reps leaving the company, quite a list now??? why for?

i have heard they are ok, but hard to use, picture quality is supposed to be pretty good

Try the Bosch Divar, it is top notch

Yeh Thomas did the same thing with the freezor option many timesw, also shrinks the platters or something, it always looks cool when you manage to get data that EVERYONE said was gone, then it becomes a good bargaining tool!

your going to want a camera that can handle vertical smearing, when a car headlight flares the picture and makes it overshoot, some cameras, not very many can eliminate the vertical smearing, thats why when headlights are on recordings you get that white line up and down the picture. The Bosch XF is the best in the market for this! or use a camera with faster shutter speeds, again the XF has a traffic mode, made for this purpose and the good thing is it has three modes, so you could havea day mode, then trigger from a relay for traffic at night time or low light being the third mode. your also going to want a IR corrected lens so that you get the best results and choose a camera that not only has a removable cut filter but has one that replaces it so you still get the correct wavelight pattern, many simply remove the filter, all colour cameras have a filter for IR lighting and some daynight cameras can remove this filter, the nex XF daynight cam is the best I have seen at this and the SD from Panasonic. Remember that zooming in will limit the amount of light getting to the sensor I would go for a Manual Iris lens if you dont want to muck about and a motorised Iris if you really want to... The best solution for you would be the new XF Daynight as you could program it up the coax for 2 modes, then ytou can adjust levels and iris settings for different time spans, for example a faster shutter in the daytime when you do not need as much light. Make sure to use IR Corrected lenses though.

dont be fooled, they only..dont SUPPORT it, you can make that Motorolla allow internet access by adding anohter account, problem is that the data transfer is bloody expensive and you might find that anything with active X may not work without updating your phone firmware.. i bought an XDA2 Mini, this works well with GPRS and because it is pc and can be updated it works well, but way too expensive to stay connected for long

Buy brand ram!!! after all its going to e going all day, make sure you dont put your HDD's on top of each other, make a partition for the OS... hay whats the video insight link? I thought that was just the comart cards with a diffrent sdk?

816, do you mean 800-16, unless that is Geo's new hardware compression board then a 800-16 is pretty straight forward. Get a Video card that has hardware overlay use a mainboard that has intel chip use Seagate drives with 8mb buffer, make sure to partition for operating system use a case with good airflow dont place in first pci slot. dont use VIA or SIS or any other chipset. Use emebedded XP Pro

The Bosch Divar will let you export to straight AVI file, not many Standalones do this, but all will be compressed, sheesh you wouldnt want it not to or it would be a huge file. it can also back up with the viewer if you like, 3yr warranty too.