cctv_down_under

As long as it is not data capture I would be interseted in taking a look please

The Ir is also heat, it attracts all things that are attracted to heat

You ALWAYS used twist ons...right from the start

Is it possible that you may have some camera inputs turned on that dont have camera feeds...some dvr's reboot to try to pick up a missing signal...what DVR is it? Have you looked in the MS Event Viewer for the reboot info?

Me no speaka dah engrish well

Verint..most certainly supports Pelco protocol

If a camera supportsw RS485 then that just means it suppurts that protocol, the most common use of this protocol excepting PTZ cameras is to allow for setting changes or more likely...zoom capabilty...you will probably find that any fixed camera supporting 485 has a motorized zoom lense...this means that you can use your DVR to zoom your camera in!

AK has a point, a lot of defining factors that affect recorded quality..not just resolution, vertical resolution is much more noticable to the human eye than horizontal, so you may not see a marked increase..the following all affect the recording appearance so you may need to learn more. Compression Type Amount of Comression Display Chip of your DVR Screen of the Display on your DVR Interlacing Resolution Etc Etc...many more too

I think you can just rename the comres files int he res you are using

see if there is a flicker switch on your camera ...try turning of the fluero lights near a camera and see if it goes away...flickering is a pretty broad description, we may need more info as that could be a lot of things

On most DVR's there is an inbuilt web server, this is software to allow you to watch the video through a browser, you dont have to have a full DVR to do this, you could buy a small box that does the same purpose. For example if I was watching an EPL game on ym television and wanted to let a mate in Mexico watch it, I could take the video from the telly and plug it into the 1ch Web Server and provide the Mexico person with an IP from which to view the video through his browser. So any (well not any) video output device, even analogue can be fed inot a web server and then you can configure it for remote access, this is also a cheap way to turn an analogue CCTV camera into an IP camera!

i meant the same thing...typo

i meant the same thing...typo

Basically the best perfomance you can get in low light is B/W, but if you want colour in the day then you need a cam that switches between them...if you are doing this, you are going to want a cam that is full body. There are two types of "switch between" or Day Night cams, those that have an IR pass filter and those that dont...IR light is present in things such as Monnlight, so any camera that switches and still blocks the IR light range it could have used will not perform as good as one with a true pass filter. If you go for full body, then you will need to firstly consider the light gathering physical size...IE 1/4 , 1/3rd or 1/2 ...Obviously the larger 1/2 Inch design has more of a surface area for light to gather on the CCD. Next consider the lense...Firstly you need to know if you are using IR lighting and if so you need an IR correct Lense, then you need to again consider how much light can get to your sensor...the first thing to look at is the F Stop, this a measurement...kinda..but not totally....but will do for this example....like measuring the total size of the hole that light can Pass through and again reach your target on the sensor...next decide if you want aspherical or not...aespherical is a curved (again not a great description) back part of the lense, this casts (again simply explained) light better on your target the CCD...Lastly with the lense you need to consider the T Factor, this is the transmittion qulaity and the lack of abhoric abraision on the glass, in laymans terms it means, perfectly machined high qulaity glass with more elements added = greater light transmittion through the lense...so good qulaity lense with nice glass. I doubt you would need to go past this point but next you need to consider your IR beams, seperate is best and the more the light can be seen the better the response..picking something your camera supports is a must. Lastly to avoid blooming and vertical smearing etc, your camera needs to be able to handle low blacks and high whites as well as have an Auto Iris lense...imaginge shining a torch in your eyes and not being able to veen squint. So the best you can go fr would be an aespherical, low F Stop Japanese Glass lense, attached to a 1/2" Low Light performance camera that has an IR Pass filter and is recieving light from an external higher or lower mounted IR Illuminator flood light. To get all this I think you would blow your budget so if it is probably unrealistic..so I give you an expensive...mid and cheap solution below... Expensive...either a SDIII from Panasonic, A Bosch LTC0495 atatched to an IR corrected lense that is aespherical and has a low F stop, using UF100 illuminators from Extreeme CCTV Middle Bosch LTC0495 and use your existing cams as Illuminators...similar lense. Cheap Any half decent B/W only camera, using your old cams as illuminators

Basically the best perfomance you can get in low light is B/W, but if you want colour in the day then you need a cam that switches between them...if you are doing this, you are going to want a cam that is full body. There are two types of "switch between" or Day Night cams, those that have an IR pass filter and those that dont...IR light is present in things such as Monnlight, so any camera that switches and still blocks the IR light range it could have used will not perform as good as one with a true pass filter. If you go for full body, then you will need to firstly consider the light gathering physical size...IE 1/4 , 1/3rd or 1/2 ...Obviously the larger 1/2 Inch design has more of a surface area for light to gather on the CCD. Next consider the lense...Firstly you need to know if you are using IR lighting and if so you need an IR correct Lense, then you need to again consider how much light can get to your sensor...the first thing to look at is the F Stop, this a measurement...kinda..but not totally....but will do for this example....like measuring the total size of the hole that light can Pass through and again reach your target on the sensor...next decide if you want aspherical or not...aespherical is a curved (again not a great description) back part of the lense, this casts (again simply explained) light better on your target the CCD...Lastly with the lense you need to consider the T Factor, this is the transmittion qulaity and the lack of abhoric abraision on the glass, in laymans terms it means, perfectly machined high qulaity glass with more elements added = greater light transmittion through the lense...so good qulaity lense with nice glass. I doubt you would need to go past this point but next you need to consider your IR beams, seperate is best and the more the light can be seen the better the response..picking something your camera supports is a must. Lastly to avoid blooming and vertical smearing etc, your camera needs to be able to handle low blacks and high whites as well as have an Auto Iris lense...imaginge shining a torch in your eyes and not being able to veen squint. So the best you can go fr would be an aespherical, low F Stop Japanese Glass lense, attached to a 1/2" Low Light performance camera that has an IR Pass filter and is recieving light from an external higher or lower mounted IR Illuminator flood light. To get all this I think you would blow your budget so if it is probably unrealistic..so I give you an expensive...mid and cheap solution below... Expensive...either a SDIII from Panasonic, A Bosch LTC0495 atatched to an IR corrected lense that is aespherical and has a low F stop, using UF100 illuminators from Extreeme CCTV Middle Bosch LTC0495 and use your existing cams as Illuminators...similar lense. Cheap Any half decent B/W only camera, using your old cams as illuminators

Basically the best perfomance you can get in low light is B/W, but if you want colour in the day then you need a cam that switches between them...if you are doing this, you are going to want a cam that is full body. There are two types of "switch between" or Day Night cams, those that have an IR pass filter and those that dont...IR light is present in things such as Monnlight, so any camera that switches and still blocks the IR light range it could have used will not perform as good as one with a true pass filter. If you go for full body, then you will need to firstly consider the light gathering physical size...IE 1/4 , 1/3rd or 1/2 ...Obviously the larger 1/2 Inch design has more of a surface area for light to gather on the CCD. Next consider the lense...Firstly you need to know if you are using IR lighting and if so you need an IR correct Lense, then you need to again consider how much light can get to your sensor...the first thing to look at is the F Stop, this a measurement...kinda..but not totally....but will do for this example....like measuring the total size of the hole that light can Pass through and again reach your target on the sensor...next decide if you want aspherical or not...aespherical is a curved (again not a great description) back part of the lense, this casts (again simply explained) light better on your target the CCD...Lastly with the lense you need to consider the T Factor, this is the transmittion qulaity and the lack of abhoric abraision on the glass, in laymans terms it means, perfectly machined high qulaity glass with more elements added = greater light transmittion through the lense...so good qulaity lense with nice glass. I doubt you would need to go past this point but next you need to consider your IR beams, seperate is best and the more the light can be seen the better the response..picking something your camera supports is a must. Lastly to avoid blooming and vertical smearing etc, your camera needs to be able to handle low blacks and high whites as well as have an Auto Iris lense...imaginge shining a torch in your eyes and not being able to veen squint. So the best you can go fr would be an aespherical, low F Stop Japanese Glass lense, attached to a 1/2" Low Light performance camera that has an IR Pass filter and is recieving light from an external higher or lower mounted IR Illuminator flood light. To get all this I think you would blow your budget so if it is probably unrealistic..so I give you an expensive...mid and cheap solution below... Expensive...either a SDIII from Panasonic, A Bosch LTC0495 atatched to an IR corrected lense that is aespherical and has a low F stop, using UF100 illuminators from Extreeme CCTV Middle Bosch LTC0495 and use your existing cams as Illuminators...similar lense. Cheap Any half decent B/W only camera, using your old cams as illuminators

Incorrect, I am not sure you understand me, we have two types of networks that we deploy our DVR's on....#1 Our own network, we work like a ISP in that we hold a large network of our own and place the companies we sell to on that network with thier own private IP, for instance my office may be 192.168.10.xxx and client A might be 192.168.20.xxx, we resell the network infrastructure and place our clients that we aquire on OUR network...not that I have a lot to do with that side of things...now obviously this is a Private IP not a VIRTUAL Private Network, so its pretty darn secure...so the DVR's that exist on this type of connection ...have a unique feature..the caddy the DVR sits in has set of dip switches with represent a binary number, this means we can update a group of DVR's at once and choose the ones we want to update and the ones we dont want to...very handy indeed. So we dont drive anywhere..even training is done remotely. The second type of deployment is when they are placed on the customers standard internet, when this is done we use one of our PC's onsite (they usually have one of our other products as well, so one of our PC's is always there)...we remote through the internet, using a secure connection (as secure as can be) and we log into this PC...before doing that we have called the customer and asked them to connect the serial cable between that PC that we remote into...and the DVR, we then flash the device...I dont like to flash through the net..I know it can be restored but I dont want a DVR becoming a toaster..that way the UPS should last long enough to handle power fluctuations. So we dont drive anywhere.. I admit most DVR's have a stripped XP or windows whatever...but not all...I bet 90% of people installing Geo cards, simply do a default windows install...in fact I bet that 70% of the 90% even get their pc built for them with a standard install of windows then throw in the card. There are many windows parts that Geo and Others use that can be exploited...but the truth is ..if you want a way for video to get out then there is always a way to get in.....the best you can hope for is to make it hard as hell. The safest is to own the network...own the san sites and charge to be on a secure network...also makes support realy easy!

Tested both, the issues seem to be the ccd...most are cmos which always has this problem, but even real ccds had this issue

I would not rely on motion detection to alert you....too many false emails.....shadows will be seen as motion, use a hardware detector if your dvr supports I/O connections..I couldn't look as replying from my phone

I know its hard to convince quality, god knows its even hard to do it for CCTV consultants ...take a snap shot of the shoddy images from the dvr then put something good in and do a comparative on your laptop

I can agree with most that is above....I disagree that windows is more secure...perhaps patches are produced quicker....but there are sooo many vulnarabilities for all the apps in windows.....agreed that most standalones are made in Asia, but not mine....as for updates, we remote into a pc that has a serial cable connected to the dvr, but it is never attached by default....as for loss of datab, we run to local san, all connections on our private IP and no outside access, so pretty darn secure. You can say what you like but I would prefer to only have to reflash than reload windows and there are millions more virus's written for windows than Linux derivitives....all PC's are vulnerable, I prefer windows based pc's for features but you can't beat an embedded standalone for stability and the ability to be secure

What version...I had as imialr problem with Jpeg, have you gone to version 8.2 yet?

Sounds like your device is a standalone...might not let you do it without additional pc with the software...weird though

Becasue if the OS in on chip, and firmware can only be upgraded while in front of the box through serial connection, it cant be affected. Unless its allowing firmware upgrade through the net it cant be hurt or vulnerable..correct? Perhaps I am wrong....really would like to know..

I am wondering if this is to regulate the change point, IE the CCD may say that if there is a level of light between 1 and 10 and 5 is reached then switch, but CCD's can see IR light, they have phospher enhancing parts that can enhance the light so the cam can see it and the lense light gathering abilities may be different...I wonder if perhaps the phot cell is more accurate...IE if level 5 on the ccd and rally level 3 outside the cam, then an earlier switch was needed, rather than the CCD telling the cam...ok now its 4, now 5 ....on..now 4 off..now 5 on...perhaps the photocell has more tollerance