Rooney

Yes I am. They have cctv and access control threads as well.

Is that Sis, Hows she doin? (joke from other thread on test bench) I know what you mean Scorpion. I spend alot of time myself making rounds on forums and groups. It's a great way to keep up on technology.

Scorpion, its you!!!! Its me Wilburt your long lost brother, cousin, uncle. Aunt Ma sayin howdy tu. I aint seen ya since we took dat picture at uncle Seefus 3rd birthday party.

I found the homeowners.....

I sent you a message. I can help you.

For that budget I don't think there is a system out there. Just a motorized lens to give you 20x is more than your budget not including the camera and pan tilt unit. You may be able to find a used ptz on the internet for about that price but I would be weary of the quality.

Now that takes some intelligence. I hope they are numb enough from the beers to not feel what is about to happen.

Now that makes sense

That all sounds good except for the 50 ft. flash. If they are kids you don't want them to see the flash and tear up the cameras. I would look for a motion triggered camera like the ones used for wild animals. Just make sure you disable the flash so the kids don't see it and tear it up.

We wonder if the Bahamas are ready for you. Just kidding. That was funny though. I'm going to send that to a couple of friends (with my name of course).

I think you have a good solution for them. The main thing is the bandwidth requirement at the NVR. The individual sites would not take much bandwidth. I would check the speed and bandwidth at the location the recorder would be installed to ensure the concept is feasible or have the customer expand the netowrk capability.

To quote Mr. Heston: "From my cold dead hands" I can't believe you people. Didn't you know that freedom is a privilige. The "New world order" is already being accomplished. Just like the democrats want to socialize our gas industry and anything else they can get their hands on. (Not to get too political, but, I was amazed at the stupidity of that)

Are the transmitters and receivers addressable? If they are, make sure they are on different channels. If not, you are probably getting cross feed. Try to isolate the 2 different systems from each other by shielding the antennas so the rx is only seeing the tx for that rx.

If you need a stable view in any wind I would go with one of these. www.remotesystems.us

Being in Arizona I have some solutions for you. Use a camera that is in an enclosure that has both a heater and a blower. (we do get low temps here as well). If the camera inside the enclosure can't handle the heat you can put in a pelteir cooler with the cool side against the enclosure where the fan is blowing and the hot side facing the exterior. just make sure the cooler is rated for the voltage you are using and size the wires according to the current needs. Sizing of the cooler will vary on the camera specs for temp range and the size of the enclosure. When sized correctly the cooler will lower the temp by 40 degrees from ambient. Since you said the cameras won't be in the sun during the heat of the day, most cameras should be OK in your situation in the above style enclosure.

Thats a good question. I have encountered ground loops when doing that only once in as many as 50 installs. The main reason I like to bond both ends with surge protection is the fact that the coax itself can create an indifference to ground and attract lightning and other surge sources. If a ground loop is encountered I just put a ground loop isolator on the control end to remedy the problem.

Rg59 should be ok. I recommend puting surge on both ends and tie the ground in accordingly. Fiber would be over the top unless the customer wants to spend the $.

Man... That's one tough eagle.

I have just the use for something like that. I like the wi-fi units as well.

The wireless video side it seems you have down pretty good. Another way you can do the control is with an rs-232/422 radio modem. The costs vary greatly but do decrease the latency problem compared to wireless video/data solutions. Just do a search on rs232/422 radio modems and you will get plenty of results to research. If you pm me I will send you information on a system I use.

I agree that having a good grounding on the opposite side of the tree would help. The main thing with lightning is to bond everything. It is true that lightning travels to the path of least resistance, but, the reason lightning strikes something in the first place is because it "see's" a path. That is why when you bond (tie everything electrically) everything together the bonded system appears to the lightning to be the same as the surrounding area. Thus making the chance that lightning will hit what your protecting the same as the chance of lightning hitting anything around it. Nothing is 100% but a well bonded system has the same chance as whatever is around it. So the odds of it hitting the equipment is much less then having that seperate "view" for the lightning. Living here in Arizona we have monsoon season that is very lightning rich. With the fact that thier is also alot of copper in the ground, we have many strikes. I have installed cameras on poles that are at the most vulnerable height (30-45ft.). The cameras the client previously insalled got fried every monsoon at least twice. He called me and I installed the cameras and bonded everything in metal conduit with surge arrestors and a ground rod at the base of the poles. After all of the bonding and arrestors installed, the pole actually never got hit again (6 years now). It may sound like putting the metal conduit and ground rod in makes it a lightning magnet, but, the exact opposite is true. The lightning now doesn't even see the pole because it matches the surrounding areas electrical potential. I hope that helps your decision. Good luck.

Isolating the cable in plastic conduit is absolutely the WORSE thing you can do. That only gives the current one thing to travel through, the cable. Lightning protection is one of the areas that I am WELL versed in. Lightning protection is acheived by maintaining a low indifference to ground. Use a surge device at the camera with the surges ground bonded to the metal conduit. Also place surge protector at the other end bonded to the conduit. If the tree gets struck you want the energy to dissipate through the metal of the conduit or tree to find its path of least resistance. If you place the power cable in plastic it will run down the cable then jump out when it findes another path, thus you will have to replace the cable and plastic conduit every time. Not including the camera that can be damaged as well. I also recommend a surge arrestor on the signal cable going to your antenna bonded to the conduit. If the camera and signal equipment is completely bonded to the ground the lightning has a greater chance of not seeing it and traveling through the tree. When you have something that stands out from the surrounding area there is more of a chance it will get hit. Another good piece of advise is the fact that most of the electrical buildup of energy before the lightning forms is around 30-45 feet in the air.

Here you go. http://www.lenexpo-electronics.com/ATLONA-MULTI-SYSTEM-PAL-NTSC-VIDEO-CONVERTER-p-16318.html

Is the cable run near any florescent lights. That will create an image like the ones you show. Also any other voltage lines passing along with your cable. If you can't move the cable install a ground fault protector similar to the Pelco GIT100.

300' is a long way to get a picture of someone that is clear enough to identify them. I agree the wildlife cam would probably be the way to go. They do have them now that have ir and motion detection so there is no flash when the picture is taken. There are also some low cost wireless cams that are small enough to hide in the trees and give you a picture that would be good enough to identify the person on the video. If you put a small wireless cam out in the trees and do what you said with the illuminator I think it would work well. The small wireless cams can transmit 400' line of site but you would want to find a place in your yard close to your house that you could hide the reciever. Then run the wire into your house and into your vcr for evidence. The wireless gate sensor is also a good idea. You can turn your tv onto the wireless cam input when you hear the sensor. Then start record on your vcr. PM me and I can give you sources and costs for the equipment. (shouldn't be more than a couple hundred bucks.) Sorry to here about your problem. You and your family stay safe.