Rooney

You can do wireless. Take into account the other responses. Also take into account the latency (delay) of the wireless system. Systems vary greatly in the delay between moving a ptz at the control and the cameras movement. This can take some getting used to if the system has a long latency. Something to keep in mind. Also the delay can be greater if you decide to have an analog ptz go into an ip converter then wireless 802.11 transmission. If you go analog I recommend a 900 mhz for control. Then depending on the line of site from the camera to the reciever take into account how clear the signal path is, i.e. clear 5.8ghz., fairly clear 2.4 ghz., a few obstructions or trees 900mhz.

I recieved my kit last week. Works great! Although I do have to keep hold of the cable or it pulls the modem down to the trunk line.

I had a request for the same thing about a year ago. After exhausting search and talking with a few experts I could not find anything. If anyone else knows of something please let me know as well.

If you are afraid of the weight of the rigid pipe flange and pipe there are alluminum ones you can get that are 1/3 the weight. I'm not sure if I can state the source on here. If this post gets deleted then I'll know I can't. The company is mcmaster. Just go to thier dot com site.

1. Varies by camera but I usually dont run coax more than 500 ft. (can be run further but thats just me.) 1a. If it is a long run use a balun to go from rg-59 to cat5. The distance varies by model but you can get a mile or a little more (6000ft.) with a powered balun. 2. Control of PTZ cameras vary by the camera manufacturer. 3. By using a balun. Usually either because of long distance or it is easier to run 1 cat5 and have 4 cameras on it then run 4 rg-59 coax. Hope that helps.

We use them alot on our systems. There are a few manufacturers that are good systems. Prices have come down a bit from a few years ago. Here are some that I recommend: https://gpssignal.com/thermal2400config.htm http://www.imaging1.com/defender_FLIR.html http://imagingsystems.icxt.com/infrared-cameras.html

I have a Sharp Aqueous. It's high resolution and works great.

I have never used a radio controled car but I have used a bow and arrow. I use a blunt or suction cup arrow with fishing line tied to it going to a fishing reel. When the arrow hits the other side I tie on my pull line and just reel it in. Works great. You just have to be careful not to hit anything that will break.

I'm looking for an inverter that will go from 12 vdc to 24vac. I am extremely limited on space. I don't want to go to a 120vac inverter then have 24vac power supply. Any suggestions. Thanks.

Lolo Wolf, Thanks for the info. I had seen that one before. It may work but I was hoping for something that could handle the heater/blower as well as a camera in an outdoor enclosure. If anyone knows of something a little larger I'd appreciate it. Otherwise I may need to hook up a couple of those.

I would go with a cellular modem (check cell signal at site first). You may need to install a dvr at the site to use the modem, It should work fine. You will notice any way you go that there will be some lag time between moving the camera and seeing the movement. It takes a little to get used too but once you get the feel for it it's not that bad.

What you want is a camera that has the ability to "slue to cue". Example, We install cameras that are tied into a ground radar system. When the radar finds a target ("cue") it relays the coordinates to the camera which will "slue" to the target. Here are some companies that have products that may meet your needs. RVision, Inc., EMX Inc. Flir Directed perception (they sell pan/tilt units with absolute coordinate software.)

That was an excellent game!! It took the kicker enough tries though. Looking forward to the BOWL!

For bonding I use wire (solid 12-10 awg) from the surge devices, and copper braid down the poles from the lightning rod to the ground rod. I then use a copper ground connecter to connect the surge wires from the camera to the braid going to the ground rod. Also bond the camera housing to the ground system. The main thing is you want the resistance to be as low as possible. I ussualy use an ohmeter to test the resistance from the camera to the ground rod. The lower the number the better (less than 1-2 ohms).

I installed a system at an actual lightning testing site a couple years ago. It is still working today with only routine maintenance (i.e. cleaning and occasional power supply or camera problem). A system CAN be made to withstand lightning. The major thing is most installation companies do not understand the science behind lightning protection. They just put a disclaimer or sell the customer high dollar protection and not install it correctly. The main thing with lightning is bonding everything together so there is no potential difference to ground. As the electrons will take the path of least resistance. I have had a camera get struck directly and survive with no problems except the housing had a small hole melted in it. When you opened the housing you could see the line it took to the grounding system.

Unfortunately there is no "100%" gaurantee. The method you stated should be an effective measure. I am in a lightning rich environment. When we do installations we do the following: 1. If camera is on a pole install lightning rod above camera and tie to ground rod. 2. Install surge protector on camera power and video feed at camera end and ground to rod. 3. Install surge on video feed at control end and ground sufficiently. 4. If cameras are PTZ also install surge on all control wires at both ends. 5. If camera feeds are underground they should be installed in IMT conduit or better. Conduit should also be grounded to rod at each end. The main thing with lightning protection is BONDING. Anything and everything that has a potential to "indifference to ground" must be bonded and grounded. If you do the above you will help the system through "most" events. Lightning is very unpredictable. You may have a strike that has 1 million volts with low amps one minute and one with 1 million amps with low voltage the next.

There are quite a few different ways to go. Solar would be the best way. We have built systems for monitoring animal migration and so forth. You can see our solar trailer unit at www.remotesystems.us PM me and I can get the particulars from you and recommend a system. The 2km should not be a problem. The solar would need to be sized according to your location, solar isolation, and power requirements of the system. It should not be that difficult to make the system descreet from the Raptors or vandals.

Ever since Pelco was bought out there have been delays. I wonder if the employees are wondering if they are getting cast out for overseas facilities.

The easiest way to do that is install a junction box at the bottom of the pole with the power outlet for the camera. Since the distance is 1400 ft. + I would use an active balun which also requires power. Then you can run cctv coax from the box to the camera. Another thing you may want to consider for the ptz cameras are pelco cameras. They allow the control to go down the same pair as the video (called coaxitron). Instead of 2 pairs for each ptz camera you only have one. So in short the box would contain: 1. Power supply for camera (recommend using a surge or lightning protection on the power and video side) 2. Video balun and its power supply As for the loops you have. You can splice the cat5 but you have to do it correctly. There is a maximum distance the wire can be untwisted without degrading the signal too much. I try to stay under 1/2". For the distance you are going with only a couple splices you should be fine.

The output is probably an rca type connector. You can get rca-bnc adapters at any radio shack or electronics store.

I have had requests in the past for underwater ptz's and have not found one. If you think a ptz would be best maybe try another route. 1. Fixed underwater cameras. Also if needed you could use a motorized zoom lens in an underwater enclosure. 2. Mount a pan tilt unit above water upside down with the underwater housing below using 2 fixed rods to the underwater enclosure. (one connected to the end of the tilt plate and the other connected around the pan enclosure) It would still give you stability and allow pan/tilt. 3. Combination of 1 and 2. Most of the underwater ptz cameras that are used on remote submersibles are built by the subs manufacturer. You could also get in contact with them. Just do a search on remote submersibles to find a manufacturer. Hope that helps.

Another suggestion is to use an ip camera with a cellular modem. If you do use rf, 900 mhz works much better for non line of site than 2.4 or 5.6 mhz. But you still may need to put a repeater in the middle somewhere.

AC is better for longer runs than DC. DC is more succeptible to voltage drop due to resistance in the wire. Also AC can use a smaller wire than DC for the same distance so there can be cost savings as well. For wire sizing visit http://www.altronix.com/index.php?pid=4&note=1

I agree with the cat5 cable and nvt. You could also use a fiber translater and run fiber (more expensive but less cabling).

Aiphone makes quite a few different versions of video intercoms that work extremely well. I would recommend them as well.