myiicu

If you want to capture plates consistently and reliably in day or night, use a Bosch LPR camera. They have been in the LPR business for years. Bosch REG-X-816-XE approx. $600 http://resource.boschsecurity.com/documents/Data_sheet_enUS_1732568587.pdf Bosch VLR-4075-V521 approx. $500 http://resource.boschsecurity.com/documents/VLR_2075_Data_sheet_enUS_11271030539.pdf A choking point is required to slow the vehicle to 50mph or less. The LPR camera should be mounted no more than 5 feet above the ground (lower the better), face the licence plate directly, and be around 20 feet away. You will also still require a colour overview camera to capture other details such as make, model, color etc.

Converter or adapter is available for 24VAC to 12VDC. about $10 Made by Ikegami, MG, COP-USA, Eclipse, Altronix etc. http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/660929-REG/Ikegami_ACDC2412_300MA_AC_24V_to_DC.html

Sorry for the late entry, hope you have not pulled the trigger yet... The Samsung SCV-2081 is great analog exterior dome camera. Good low light capability. Nice image. 2.8mm-10mm True day night IP66 about $180 https://www.samsung-security.com/SAMSUNG/upload/Product_Specifications/SCV-2081_Specifications.pdf

Mixing camera types in an installation is recommended. There is no single camera that is perfect for every situation. I use mini domes to capture facial at the entrance because lighting can be controlled and helped by motion lighting. Mini domes are also smaller, more discrete but need light. I use standard domes with better zoom and low light capability on the exterior to cover the perimeter. I use box cameras with enclosures when I need even better zoom and low light capability. In an analog CCTV system, the video signal that the camera outputs is standard composite. This video signal is transmitted over coaxial wire. With analog, you can mix and match different camera models and different brands to your recording device (DVR). In an IP CCTV system, the video signal is digital. This digital information is transmitted over Ethernet twisted pair wire. With IP, the recording device can be an all-in-one box called network video recorder (NVR) Entry level NVR usually support only same make cameras. Higher end NVR support different make cameras. Also, with IP, the recording device can be a dedicated computer with network switch running video management software (VMS) Entry level VMS usually support only same make cameras and is usually free. Higher end VMS usually support many different types and brands and is not free.

I prefer to use low cost ($60) disposable Brother desktop labeller with automatic cutter. http://www.brother-usa.com/Labeling_Solutions/ModelDetail/7/PT2730/Overview#.Uy2uwHlOWUk Does not have all the fancy features... The automatic cutter will get gummed up eventually. Cutters not replaceable on some units or costs an arm/leg. Tape is low cost and available everywhere (Staples, Walmart, Costco) in a jam. TZE231 is only $12 per roll 1/2"x26' =$0.46 per foot

12V DC will not damage camera that requires 24V AC. Are you using 24V AC or 24V DC on that camera? If camera is 12V DC and powered with 24V, camera could be toast. Most cameras have diode for polarity protection. Nothing for overvoltage protection. Use a multimeter to check if your power supply still works.

That combo system is analog not IP. A Samsung combo IP system is over your budget. The Swann IP system (actually Hikvision) from Costco is close to your budget.

Fujinon YV2.7X2.9LR4D-SA2L is a great low light lens. 1/3" 2.9mm-8.0mm F0.95 D/N

Here's a lower cost/small footprint tunneling option. The Borzit is a telescopic boring/tunneling tool. A 1/2" drill such as Milwaukee hawg, garden hose, and threaded pipe is required. http://www.borzit.com/ Drilling a hole through the wall at below grade is not recommended. Keep all wall penetrations 6" min above grade to avoid water infiltration problems. Pvc conduit is recommended to keep cables dry. If possible, go big. I use a 12" gas powered, water cooled Stihl cutoff saw for concrete cutting. In a jam, I've used 5" angle grinder with diamond blade. Don't forget the safety glasses and dust mask. A helper with shop vac to help suck dust while cutting is key. If a control/expansion joint is nearby, just widen to 1" by 2" deep using angle grinder/diamond blade. Use concrete chisel and mallet to clear channel. Install direct burial cable/conduit and fill channel with flexible concrete crack/filler sealer.

I've used exterior mini domes from Axis, Panasonic, Samsung, Hikvision, and KT&C. When wall mounting these, don't expect full 3-axis/gimble and the ability to look down the walls. Get a regular dome if you need the flexibility.

When comparing image sensors that are the same size (eg 1/3") A 3MP chip will have smaller pixels than a 1MP chip. Also, a 5MP chip will have much smaller pixels than a 1MP chip. A larger pixel has more surface area to gather light. Some manufactures have tried "pixel binning" on their larger image sensors to help. But the improvement is marginal.

If you are looking for a low light dome camera from Hikvision, the DS-2CD2712F-I is their best. Like all camera manufactures, the 1.3MP/720P sensor provides the best low light image.

ds-2cd2543f-i ??? Typo should be ds-2cd2532f-i

delete..

The best low light IP cameras in a dome enclosure have a compact vari-focal lens: 2.5mm-6mm @ F1.2 3mm-9mm @ F1.2 (p-iris) 3.3mm-12mm @ F1.4 3mm-8.5mm @ F1.2 If you want facial recognition under low light @ 50' distance, a box camera with much larger lens is recommended.

The best low light IP cameras are only 1.3MP/720P or less and have 30 fps frame rate. Some newer low light cameras have 60 fps frame rate but are still only 1.3MP/720P. The M series from Axis are not true day/night cameras. So don't expect great low light performance.

Stranded center coaxial cable is more flexible and also smaller turn radius than solid center coaxial cable. Stranded center coaxial cable is usually terminated by with solder to the center pin and outer metal ring is crimped/twisted to the outer jacket and shield. Look for 3 piece BNC connector.

If you can find a stable mounting location that is closer to the target about 25' than your lens cost will be much lower. The Computar HG5Z2518FC-MP31 is a great lens. 25-135mm dc auto iris Cost about $300 http://computarganz.com/product_view.cfm?product_id=1116

My alternative solution is way over your budget. This solution is less. Technology always improves, so spare lens do accumulate. Any old lens with long cable will do, just leave lens lying on enclosure base. Unless you are in a 80' clean room, dust will stick to your lens. So a enclosure is recommended for the camera and lens. The axis cameras are very reliable products. I have had + $1K Panasonic and + $1K Sony cameras die under 1 year.

Since your lighting is relatively controlled and you don't need ir, a good color box camera should suffice. The axis M1114 is a good little basic 1.3mp box camera. It is color only but very capable at low light levels. No bnc test video out, so you will need a computer to view image. Axis part number is 0341-001 Costs about $500 with 2.8-8mm lens http://www.axis.com/files/datasheet/ds_m11_42497_en_1209_lo.pdf The lens calculator show that you will need about 300mm lens. The Marshall V-300-3.75 is a fully manual lens. So you will need to keep a spare lens plugged into the dc auto iris connection on camera. Costs about $900 http://www.marshall-usa.com/optical/lenses/300mm%20F3.75_CutSheet.pdf

The squirrels around here leave all kinds of goodies and bury some as well. I have found fruit, bagels, cookies, chestnuts etc. on window ledges, door sils, nooks, and corners. The squirrels have a good memory and seem to be able to find their hidden stashes.

"Smart IR" led implementations using solely photocells are not very good. Photocells are generally not very efficient and have a very slow response time around 75ms. Avigilon's "Adaptive IR" continually combines zoom and content data to get the best image. http://avigilon.com/white-papers/adaptive-ir/

What is your budget for the camera and lens? The camera is low cost but the lens will set you back.

During the last heat wave, 2 churches had their air conditioner condenser units stolen right off from the wall. The stolen units were finally replaced and a steel cage was welded and bolted to the wall. If only to slow them down...

For good cabling armor, I get my sheet metal guy to shear and form a 16 gauge galvanized steel channel raceway in a trapezoid profile to help shed water/snow in 8' lengths. The formed pieces are then sent to the paint shop for priming, color, and baking. The channels are mounted at the customer's location using concrete screw fasteners. In a jam, I have used drywall furring channels. These can cover small conduit or cabling bundle 7/8" diameter max. Also, only 25 gauge thick so less protection. Available at your local building supplier. http://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/metal-framing/7-8-x-12-furring-channel-25-ga/p-1707664-c-5695.htm