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Thanks, I might try that. I use to do that once in a while just to locate the wall but I purposely stayed out away from the nailer. I would have thought it would be quite a chore to push through the top plate with wire. You will be suprised how easy it is. Just make sure it is sharp.

Yes, this is but one of the tricks in my bag!!!

If I understand what you are saying, you are poking a plot hole from the attic to the room and then measure from there. That sound a little backwards to me, not to mention dangerous. Depending upon the ceiling paint you could make a much bigger hole that needs patched. My way is more accurate. But to each their own. Have a good week.

I can't speak for the MagnaPull but to determine exactly where to inner edge of the wall is actually located the following may help. Go to a local hobby shop and buy a 3' section of 1/16" dia music wire. Now cut into about 9" to 12" lengths. Use a pair of dyke's so the cut end looks like a chisel. Something like this " ===> ". Now when you need to locate the wall in the attic chuck up the rod in your cordless drill. At the corner where the wall meets the ceiling place the point and keeping the rod from hitting the wall start drilling up. It will drill thru the drywall and the 2x4 above into the attic. It may take a bit of a push but it will go though. Once you feel it passes thru un-chuck and leave it there. Go into the attic and look in the approximate area under the insulation. It will be there sticking up. Now you can measure as you see fit. Once done just pull it through. Use a very small dab of Spackle to plug the very small hole. Once done it can not be seen unless you know where it was at. Job done. Hope this helps someone in the future. Don't mean to step on the OP but I thought this might help. I am interested in a report on the use of the MagnaPull. Thanks,

Hello all, I am searching for a Micro DVR. One of these that are about the size of a digital camera or gps. Has anyone ever used one and if so what was your impression??? The application is a small office to install and record a covert camera. What is required is the following. Motion Detection recording as well as manual and schedule Run whole weekend off of wall wart. Record to SD memory Possible mini HHD for recording USB 2.0 I have been looking at a variety of sites that have them listed but some are not in stock or coming soon. Would like to get conversation with someone that has actually used one with pro/con comments. I hate buying equipment on the blind faith. Any thoughts would be helpful. TIA

Thanks for the link. I did not see USB 2.0 in the specs. The preference would be to DL to PC and view/save/copy there. Thanks again,

Now I fully realize that you are looking to record birds calls and other sounds of nature so this really will not be an issue. But, FYI Depending on where you are located on the planet and you local or federal laws recording a persons voice is seriously illegal. It is technically possible of course but against the law with out written or oral permission of those being recorded. I know that people are doing it everyday, but you could not pay me enough to set one up. That is unless immediately after the job, you pay for an private jet to a location of my choice with enough to live quite well on for at least 20 years or I die of natural causes.

Yea, I know I wasn't there. I would guess that over the couple of hours of being connected the circuit built up enough capacitance to crap out the video. Nothing worse than a intermittent problem. Found one a few weeks ago that plagued me for about 4 months. Every so often for some times less than a minute and for as long as a 2 hours. Sometimes good for 3 days straight. By the time anyone could get there the system was fine. This was a fire alarm panel. On the last trip while check resistance and connects AGAIN. I noticed that the zone was in trouble............................. The ZONE WAS IN TROUBLE. I scrambled to look at smokes and found one (the eol) had a high flash rate. It indicates a supervisory circuit failure. Gothcha sucker!!!! Since replaced the smoke with new and life is now good.

As I read your dissertation of the events I got to thinking that wouldn't it have better when "the barn camera was down". To take the cable from the barn directly to the monitor to see if is the signal? Then take a monitor to the camera and see if the camera had signal? And then check the cable continuity and sha-bang it is the cable?? I know that this sounds like I am beating you up for taking a different approach. Not the case. I know I was not there. However, this is not just for you to read. Hopefully others will learn for all of this. Just another viewpoint. Glad you found the problem. Conduit is your only solution. Good luck.

As I said before this must be a Brit thing. Seems to me we are writing a theses here. I always knew that I should have gone for my teaching degree and made more money...........

Please excuse my dumbness but this is the first time I have heard of "Shotgun Cable". So I did some googling and found this.http://www.jfs-security.co.uk/acatalog/components_connectors_cable.html Must be a Brit thing. If that is what you have then change your search to "Siamese Cable". If NOT then you sure have me stumped. To connect both ends, simply splice the positive and negative to the red and black 18/2 to the appropriate power source and connector at camera, install BNC connectors and your read for lights - camera - action!!! Good luck,

I assume that the equipment manual is not available. If it is you should have started there first. It depends somewhat on the equipment (mfg/model) but for the most part try the following. Take the output from then switcher to the input on the vcr. Then the output of the vcr to the vcr/input of the switcher. The monitor output of the switcher should go to the monitor. Depending on the switcher there should be a button that may be marked LIVE/VCR. When you playback the vcr you will need to push this button to put the switcher in the playback mode. When you want LIVE you will need to press it again. Hope that is correct and makes sense. Good luck.

Thanks, most of my runs to date have been less than 150-175 foot runs. So now I am looking at almost twice that and don't want to shoot myself in the foot. Thanks for the input.

Thanks, I have found that but have found reference to 200 -250 and 500. If it is 750 I am good to go since I am looking at 275'. Now I have to look at the voltage drop issue. Thanks again.

Give this a whirl.......................................... http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/content/article/2008/02/18/AR2008021802132.html?hpid=artslot

If I may join in. This may help someone when all else fails. A number of years ago I had a long narrow hallway with 1'x 1' ceiling tiles. The hall was about 75-80 feet long. There were 2 small hatches at either end that gave access to a space that was about 18" high. The ceiling tiles had 12" fiberglass batts from end to end. Couldn't snake my fish that far, use my pole, sling shot, ball with string or any other tool that I had in the van or otherwise. Soooooooo what to do???????????? I had to get a wire to the other end and surface mounting at the ceiling/wall was not an option. So I picked up the local Merchandiser paper. Looked under toys/games for sale. Found some kid that wanted to sell his BIG Wheel R/C Truck. yeee hawwww!!!! Took the body off and strapped on my flashlight, tied on a pull string and wire and drove the sucker to the other hatch opening. It went over the fiberglass batts like sand dunes. Start to finish was about 90 seconds. Well worth the $100 bucks I paid the kid. Turned into a fun toy as well. On a different thought I did hear that someone used a pet rat to pull cables in a old school. Built a special harness for the rat tied on a string and stuffed him in a wall. Used some cheese and calls from other end and the rat came out at the right spot. Anyhow hope that little trick helps someone in the future.

ABSOLUTELY!!!!

Hello all, I recently installed 3 Everfocus EHD525/EX-1 exterior small domes. We have had a frosting in temp as fall weather has finally arrived. Noticed yesterday morning while on site that there is some condensation on the inside of each of the domes. The cameras are mounted under the sofit of the roof. I have conduit running from the cameras up into the unheated attic area. I have silica packets installed in the camera housing as supplied with the camera and suggested by the manufacturer. My first guess would be to hermetically seal the conduit. But I am not sure how practical that would be since there may always be a leak some where. These cameras do have heaters built in so I would think that they are warm and the outside air is colder and condensation is forming. My first thought would have been that it would have formed on the outside of the dome and not the inside. Anyone have any thoughts as to a quick solution?? Thanks in advance. Les

Sometimes a bigger hammer will help.

Hi Rory, Thanks for checking. All has been very good with the cameras. And there has been a lot of opportunities for the cursed condensation to appear. So I have to say that life is good. Later, Les

Absolutly the best for all would be T&M. That way you won't come up on the short side if you run into any problems. Good luck.

I have searched the site but could not find the direct answer to this small delima. Just had a conversation with a potential customer that wants me to install some cameras he has that are in PAL format. Since I know only that I have never used a PAL camera I am trying to figure out what can I do with them. So here are the questions that I have. 1) If the DVR can programmed to record in PAL and it is running in the US at 115v 60Hz will the output give me a picture?? 2) Is there a "device" that will convert from PAL to NTSC??? 3) Should I have litttle concern here? 4) Am I missing something that I need to learn. (Teach me) Thanks in advance. Les

Thanks for the input. I will have to come up with some plan here. Experimenting is not the greatest option. Thanks again. Les

But Cat5 cable MUST Exterior Rated for it to be any good for this application. Other wise the "without much trouble" you speak of will be BIG TROUBLE when it comes time to actually use is. Les

Kiwi, I hear what your saying, but from what I have been told and it seems to be working out that way. The newer monitors spec out 1280 x720 or above and because the 800 x 600 is rarely used any more the mfg's have stopped making it available. It is like the way of the 8 track tape. (if you ever had them where you are) What you say is encouraging but I am still challenged here. More investigation is required. Really looking for a mfg./model number that I can sink my teeth into. Anyone?? Thanks, Les