Lolo Wolf

History, life and combat has taught me to practice watchful prudence when goverments, politicians, Kings, Queens and other assorted "heads of state"- figure heads- or not start talkin about "solutions, final or ongoing. As a proud citizen of this country I reserve the right to voice my views and in turn respect yours. I apolgize to no one and still wish the best of health to all.

Well I dont wear a "t shirt" but collectively my family and I have over three generations of combat service to this country and as stated previous I still respect a persons right to voice their view. So while everyone is playing on their latest computer and cctv equip much of it produced in a country where workers are enslaved and dont realize that there is another war going on, the war to undermine the working people in this america I still say I got no love for King, queens or Royality. Also this "loudmouth" on every trip to my cancer center I make it a point to visit on a regular basis the VA nearby and spend time with other Vets that have leukemia and are fighting the disease. It sure would be nice to see all the self proclaimed "patriots" to take time and visit with a VA or for that fact even know where the wall is in Washington. Now I feel better. Best of health to you and have a good day.

Although I respect your right to voice .... and I wish him no harm...from this little corner of the globe I got no love for kings, queens or any people who consider themselevs as "ROYAL" and elite... unfortunately the world including my America is slowly turning back to that World Order. Regards

WV-CS854B has been replaced with WV-CS954 by Panasonic but they have a Parts/Accessories page for their discontinued products or you can try calling their National Parts Department at 800-833-9626 I think CCTV_Suppliers a forum member knows of Panasonic replace parts perhaps he can help you or you could check with some of the parts/dealers that advertise on the forum.

Hello robca, Ive used channel vision modulators and filters but mostly use Pico Macom for broadband work havent used Channel- Vision tele systems, there are a lot of entry solutions on the market some are geared to multi-dwelling apts etc. "pro rated" AAS, Dorene, Osco, Aiphone and Linear Ive used some of them but prefer to fab my own video entry for single residental gate builds, some with Mini PTZ - zoom to gate box on motion or dedicated bell button, most clients just want simplicity. Also the all in one solution has its drawbacks often the video is highly dependent on the systems integrity...if the cam fails you often have to replace the entire board however your thinking of integrating your own cam is a good idea if you have the time/skill. There are small outdoor rated board cams you could install into a blanks look at Dorene and AGS they have a lot of boxes that you can use for custom work, some with keyed or keypad addons as well speaker/enclosures some blank. Stay away from the plastic type products the stainless, brass or powder coated finish steel housings are the best for outdoor. Overall cost for a application such as yours I would stick with the Doorbell Fon and yes the optional electric strike controller works very well with most openers and you can also add their DP28SW outbound trigger to activate lights, cams etc when the bell button is energized. Overall simple and cost effective for a single res user. For cams...If its critical facial recon that you want look towards the Extreme DACOR or FR series (pricey) or WZ (wizkid series) the WZ8L is a total package complete with electrical box and night vision. You have a lot of options for small discrete cams (board/mini bullets) several on the maket really... depends on the spec you want.

Yeah Rory, dont mean to sound like a stickler but after so many years of IBEW brothers eyes and inspectors standing over me during my past construction life I always revert to the "book" outa habit. You have been doing this work and hardwire long enough to know what works for you just plain works and I am not saying you are wrong or "IT has to be done" Most of my definitive advice to posters- DIYs with electrical is just based on safety and common sense not to load the forum up with codes, there are other forums for that.

Channel vision has cameras for their door entry systems (phone systems are discontinued I think but the cams/plates are still availible) that mount to gang box as well viking, but why not use the Doorbell Fon system and then just add a mini bullet near the entry? A cam isolated from the door box gives you more advantages for optimized view. Ive been using the Doorbell Fon products for years for res. entry gate builds and they are very reliable as well the door strike applications work well for gates. I buy the larger brass face plates with the soft touch button and rip the guts out and put them in blank stainless entry boxes with speaker holes and drill for the button replacement, put them on goosenecks with additional keyed access and add a Knox box. The Doorbell Fon also works with cable telephone service as well. Doesnt just seize the line gives you a call waiting/warning if the phone is in use. Never had a call back or problem from a install using their product. I just did a upgrade for a client using the DP-28T so he can operate his gate from office with his cell phone. The money you save (retail prices arent bad) you could use for a high quality camera at your entry and since you already have modulated to TVs with your exsisting system just add another channel dedicated to entry 24/7.

Rory, I was refering to the cord grip connector for prewire cable entry, not conduit, he wants to use a box. Using the connector would insure a good solid mechanical cable entry into the box. Everyone has methods and Im sure many of them work but if your going to use outdoor boxes etc. you may as well do it right. As far as cameras I agree with you. I prefer Box cams with housings and conduit with water-tight glands. Just giving him a heads up on the often misuse of adhesives, putty, silicon etc, for securing wire/cable.

Using products coax seal, putty, silicon etc.. as a PRIMARY fixed entry point in place of a threaded fitting over time will fail, even the "self sealing" type, its always good pratice to have a threaded mechanical connection for electrical wire no matter what voltage. All wire or cable movement should be limited by proper fitting and protetction. These "sealing" type products can be added to aid in the moisture protection. Its up to you.

Fas, no matter what "box" you use although as I noted earlier a fixture box that some here are refering to as a round or octagon box... is designed to carry load. Due to the small diam of the prewire from cam wrap with cold shrink form a bundle, not to excess, avoid the crushing application of a romex connector, use a sized cord grip fitting example: http://www.aifittings.com/d_3.htm and where you enter the box shape the cabling so that you form a drip loop (downward hanging) to prevent water intrusion into the connection. The bnc end will pass thru the cord grip fitting, you may have to pull the BNC first then pull the additional PWR wires.

Didnt see Rory there when I was writing the first post but as he noted: the thin walled cover plate should be avoided for mounting heavy cameras eventually the cover will distort and pull away and fail...also wind force could apply stress/fatigue. A heavier duty fixture box can handle added weight dependent on the Nuvico you are using, the 36IR and up are feed thru brackets. There are some cameras designed to mate with single-gang electrical boxes or J-boxes, you could swap out the factory bracket and use a Panavise J-Box mount http://www.panavise.com/f/cctv/cctv_jbox.html

Outdoor boxes have gasket. Not a good idea to leave any opening for "drain" that would defeat the outdoor box application/rating. If you need to use metal and mount to face then use a box designed for fixtures and make up a water-tight seal so that the cam is attached to face plate then enter through the threaded hole. Another method if you are sure that provided entrance is where you want the cam is mount the cam bracket above the hole provided and if you have enough wiggle room inside back of wall space mount a indoor entry box that is accessible and make up your connections there. You would need to protect (3M cold shrink etc..) the short prewire to cam and seal the entry. If this is a commercial application you may have to use a approved method (wet location)local to you, so good to check first in the event that you are inspected save you time/money if forced to redo with a local spec.

do a basic troubleshoot- make sure your pwr source is working, make sure you inserted the green terminal block snug and that your red+ is to 12vdc and the black is to ground The ground wire on the harness should be the black shield covered with shrink tube and it also acts as the video ground the yellow wire is to your Video the two remaining wires are your RS-485 for PTZ control. White is RS+ and Blue is RS- ...if you have a stand alone control board connect the control wires to your control device and make sure that you have + and - the same as cam....now make sure the CONTROL device is set for the same protocol the default for the cam is auto detect for Pelco D/P 2400 bps baude rate and call the same ID# as the cam... the default ID of the cam is 001 (1) .... connect the BNC to a monitor make sure that all the wires are fitted to their proper designation and then power on. A diagnostic display should appear on the screen and the cam will run through a series of tests. If you get no results and the cam is not powering up then we have to question the power, source and connections. The camera should energize as soon as you apply voltage with or without the control and video connections. It would spin during the diagnostic and run through a Tilt Origin Test and then wait 60 sec for a TX connection test then remain Idle.

-"Well I was expecting some participation from other members.Beside the smart, intelligent, constructive remark from this member that didn't happen" - Your tone from the outset was combative and as person who works in this industry Ive learned that nothing is set in stone. .. touting all the latest and greatest and making definitive conclusive remarks refering to traditional cctv security has been done for many years.Yet here we are in 2008 and there still exists a place for the older technology and methods just as well the "latest". Real world market points to large prodution amounts of non-IP cameras and related gear and that is a direct reflection of the demand. My remark was directed to Rory. I too look towards the forum for insights from other members but after reading the exchange on the topic, it seem to me to be argumentative. Have a great day and best of health to you.

"But right now I feel like I am still talking to a wall" Rory I think your response was very well grounded, and a wall is only as strong as its footing.

In my humble opinion, skew shouldnt be a problem when twisted pair cable is used for composite/baseband video signals or any NTSC resolution-level signals, the luminance and chrominance signals are sent together over a single pair of wires with scan rates that are much slower than for VGA-type signals. Cat 5e standard specifies a maximum delay skew limit of 45 nanoseconds (ns) over the entire length of the cable used. This is not acceptable for analog RGB signals and high resolution video transmission, high-resolution video is subject to skew, particularly at long distances, where the transmitter processes the signal and sends each color down a separate pair and thats where you will observe the separation, or lack of correct convergence in colors such as a red/blue tinge. If you see "the rainbow effect" with a UTP/balun on a CCTV monitor I would blame the quality of the cable being used as well the placement of the run and other factors such as T-Taps/bridge-Taps etc. that would generate pic probs, I agree improper termination would affect the perfomance of the signal but its not only the termination of the twist that adds or shortens the length of the pair but also due to the constuction of the cable itself, the pairs of wires are twisted at different rates (to reduce- pair to pair- crosstalk) so within the cable itself the total length of each pair are longer than others to begin with. As noted earlier the quality of the cable, the consistency during the manufacturing process of wires, conductors and ability to maintain high standards with quality control have a major impact on signal results. (I honestly feel that although the rapid advance of technology is impressive the market place is oversaturated with substandard products making it harder and more expensive to design quality builds)

5IR domes, 3 hidden cams,1 zoom dome, 2PTZs (I assume with heaters) one bullet ir and one more on the way...your total: 13 cameras you spoke of a PTZ distance on one cam better than 200ft....Im sorry to say I think you may have problem meeting those power demands based on what limited info you have given but still can you tell me the POWER box model (branded or not) and the total AMPs of the product

In response to CCTV_Suppliers: seems to be a lot white papers on the performance of baluns is based on controlled enviroments, and as we all know the application of any technology is determined by many variables. That is one reason why we read on the forum so many differnt views and results from posters on their realtime experiences using them. However survtech has once again substantiated his claim that most baulns operate close to each others spec without dramatic deviation. The differences between observed values in the end I think is determined by application, thus the onsite use of the devices and the end result is mostly in the system build. I am FAR from being expert on the use of bauln technology and still consider cable (many refer to it as old tech) to be less problematic, withstanding abuse (pulls, protection etc) better than UTP. Yet to work in this industry, baulns and related devices are here to stay. Its great to get hands on data such as survtech is posting and I look foward to more insights from others. The few installs where I have used baluns I have concluded just as traditional cabling: 1) physical and mechanical placement 2) quality of utility power 3)system build ( quality of camera, DVR and related terminal equipment) 4)the quality of the UTP cable- These four factors together will make or break a install. It should be noted that to overcome losses created by senders, UTP wires, and receivers involves skill, time and equipment to correctly size to offset loss and attain a quality or "normal" pic. with UTP often more (equalization) doesnt mean better. I often use Belden products for my work, and only use NEC Riser-rated and cable with water-block options for outdoor work. The MediaTwist@ and related cable family from Belden have clear and concise tables listed on their spec such as capacitance, (the standard for Category 5 is 1000 pF/1000 ft. capacitance unbalance. Belden 1872A MediaTwist is less than 150 pF/1000 ft.) Point-to-point wiring and analog baseband video with UTP/baluns and all the claims really comes down to the ability of interference rejection of signals within the cable (either pair-to-pair crosstalk or cables that coexist nearby. A "better" or "High Quality" balun is only as good as the path put between it.

Thank you for the in depth evaluations. Interesting results, however one most put into perspective the working environment and infrastructure of the facility you are conducting the retrival of your readings.The structured cabling... bending radius,conduits if any...cable trays and utility closets etc as well the various cable/wire qualities and electrical pollution.. all will impact the performance. I agree that most of the branded baluns perform close to each other and actually have had some decent results with cheaper OEM products but from my use of them (outside plant) I find that the higher the quality of the wire the the lower the attenuation, the lower the crosstalk = the better performance of baluns. Baluns to me are kinda like women, some you wanna keep forever and some you wish you never met. (Just to be politically correct Im sure there are plenty of woman that feel that way about men too.)

Yes you have a 12volt camera which is what I suspected all along, now tell me the spec on your pwr box that you bought, total amps and how many cameras do you expect to power from it...what kind of cams voltage and distance .... I am trying to help you but need more info

your cam has auto detec for pelco D/P factory default to 2400bps, that is what you should use, and just a note: I do not think that camera is dual voltage, the manual is used for both models look on the box the cam came with it, a sticker should read either SD10X DN or DNW or (24vac model) SD10XDN2 or N2W

How many cams are do you intend to run, how many PTZs (total system) and distances... and when you say that the PTZ has 12/24 option- does the PTZ cam spec included with the cam state: (dual voltage) that you can either hook up 12vdc and or 24vac? If thats the case then it is not the Branded TBT.The camera I was refering to gives you the option to ORDER either 12vdc or 24.... two differnt models based on voltage requirements. As a matter of fact the terminal blocks will be differnt as well (12vdc or 24vac) the 12 will have a imput for ground. I looked up your cam SVP-DNC10X and it sure looks like the TBT... if I am wrong and you have a dual voltage cam for the distance you are doin (200-250ft) I would use 24vac PS......I dont want to confuse you, but simply what is the voltage spec listed for your cams 12 24 or dual? and what is the PS box specs you bought model and total amps?

Rory get yourself a hit of that cuban coffee....keep ya movin thru all those malls....Im headin back to sunny fla (lauderdale) back to my cancer center in a couple of weeks....hope the weather stays nice...enjoy your trip regards

VST_Man in my previous post I was trying to explain to him that using adjustable power was a work around, he "maybe" able to reach....as well I did hang a(TBT)on a install 12vdc model near 200ft (I prefer using 24vac cams ) but it worked.

If we are talking bout the same camera (TBT) the 12volt model spec is C12V 750mA (Heater Type DC12V 1.2W),You maybe be ok at that distance but I wont push much futher, whats the total available Amps of the PSU you bought.(look at the output rated spec for each channel also) Before you hang the cam as noted by VST_Man its a good idea to bench your cam first with all your devices (DVR, control etc)