Lolo Wolf

For most of my builds I stick with 24 its just a prefrence, longer runs, as well multiple cams with heater/blowers and design considerations....I have used some 12volt cams within 24 builds and the added converters have sometimes created issues requiring use of a isolated 12volt pwr. supply instead.... Cam manufacturers often show PWR specification: power supply: 12V DC. or 24vac but its key to size acceptable voltage deviation for your runs. So really its a matter of choice based on distance considerations.There are work arounds using adjustable power supplies.You should take into consideration the variable resistance (thermostat switching on and off etc) voltage drops will also change. Just pushing more voltage to satisfy the demand of built in IR, blwrs heaters etc needed at differnt intervals can cause cam failures if not sized correct. For fixed loads 12vdc, but with multiple cams using additional devices and long outdoor runs I find its easier with 24vac.

the listed cable was not intended as a option but as a replacement if needed.....still all in all a very good camera have a few in service out here and have performed quite well in rough service/weather.The 24 worked better for my applications .....had some minor issues with the 12volt models I try to stay with 24 for my work.

from what I learned it was a factory package error,with the early shipments.....some dealers might have older inventory selling now....the later models have the bnc cable included.

SVP-DNC10x, pretty sure that is a TBT mini branded by Surveilex.... if it is depending on the voltage (they come in 12volt DC and 24vac) The early models didnt ship with a cable combination if you go to the TBT cctv website you will find on their PTZ Accessory page the BNC cable you need either for 12 or 24 dependent on what you bought...contact your seller and ask for the cable its TB-C12 or TB-C24. I bought some of those PTZs from Rainbow last year and they didnt have the cable included in the pachages, I hunted down the origin of that cam which is TBT Korea and found the cable listed....after contacting them (Rainbow) they sent the missing cables. By the way it is a excellent camera.

"the cable biggest disadvantage is the fact that your connection is shared with all users from start" That particular performance issue can be resolved by the cable company adding a new channel and splitting the users. ALL Internet connections share bandwidth to a degree, (DSL, Data service etc) GOOD cable providers monitor performance regularly and can add another channel when the bandwidth per user hits a certain point. DSL starts to share bandwidth at the phone co central office whereas cable co to residential users starts earlier in the connection, Bandwidth limits within cable modem networks are not per node. Bandwidth limits in cable systems are defined by the upstream or downstream channels assigned.Nodes can be configured to use larger data channels or multiple data channels for more bandwidth. A lot of the performance issues with cable is dependent on local system design and system architecture. Some providers push more customers per node and CMTs port and that will cause bandwith issues. New generation CMTS downstream ports and upcomming technology combined with lower prices have really impacted the cable industry now and seems to be subscription rates depend on marketing and competition, as well the willingness for providers to upgrade and maintain a quality system.....in markets where there is little competition especially some rual areas, often service suffers due to profits/costs. As with all industries (road build, utilities etc) future infrastructure and design to meet new demands play a big role in performance....today with a few exceptions most service is all profit motivated.

he OmniSeal Pro XL (30-793) was added to their line late last year... if you are going with Ideal, its pre-set/calibrated for Ideal branded connectors but adjustable for others, A theater tech buddy of mine out here uses one, he likes it. Seen them online retail various sites from 50-80$ If you are only going to use occasionally Triangle http://www.trianglecables.com/ has one from Stern for their PermaSeal connectors, Triangle ships fast and a never had a probs ordering from them for other gear. Their connector prices are pretty good. The Branded Stern looks like other OEM comp. tools but there are differences, longer stroke and two springs around the pull shafts as well the handles are longer, overall a heavier tool. I use to old school crimp and once in alwhile still do but compression is great for outdoor work and once you master the method it produces a quality seal.

No matter what method you use, having multiple ground paths or the quality of your PWR source/supply could be the issue, Ground loops do develop on UTP CCTV just as coaxial cables. You asked for cable distances, others may differ but for me - without amplifiers- Using QUALITY copper cable- RG59 approx 500ft RG6 750ft, Ive got some coleman and belden RG11 (copper) parked on some reels leftover that was in a job spec and got clean signal better than 1500ft. With amps you should be able to get 3000ft with RG59 and approx 4500ft with RG6, the 11 could go better than 6000ft but is not very cost effective unless specified for the job and its a bear to work with. Quality gear mixed it with lower end devices really impact the total results in a system and most system performance problems can attest to that, yet A good installer can make a cheap cam look good and as well a quality cam look bad. Its all in the build.

Enjoying this ongoing post on Baluns, wonder how many people realize that we can thank Geanelli Guanella back in 1944 (Bell Labs) for the video Balun technology of today being discussed (application was radio broadcast) His balun was a 16:1 matching transformer constructed of coiled transmission lines. -just a little history break

"cause the central electricity on that building was down" Are you by any chance running cameras and pwr in mulitple buildings, if so are the mains on one building tied to other building with a subpanel or separate services, curious what is the fault causing loss of power.... (poco outage or building probs) perhaps you have electrical issues contributing to your cam system performance?

Camera placement in relationship to the gate and where your lights are located (on the gate, type of light.. etc) all will help in determining what type of cam to use. If you are observing in/out traffic that should be considerd as well , need to be positioned so that you minimize the glare and saturation from headlights at night.

I use Ganz (CBC) for box cam installs and over the years have performed well, solid product and feed thru wall bracket cabling (no exposed cable ) : http://www.cbcamerica.com/cctvprod/ganz/housings/oh_hsg.html

As noted by mr.surveillance, its probable inadequate power,(sounds like you are using IR bullets) if you can swap a PS (one that meets the required cam PWR spec) to a individual cam at night when the problem occurs see if it cleans up. If that doesnt resolve the issue then its time to revisit your connect, wire runs, terminations (wire methods/placement) possible ground issues (loops) often they can occur at differnt times and since you are using mulitple PWR supplies with 8camera system.... before you run out a buy isolator(s) check and look for possible multiple sources of the problem (signal too close to mains etc) within the system. Also check and verify a clean pic at cams (by- pass your inter connects DVR imputs etc..direct to test monitor from camera at night when the issues occur.

Our local nodes are equipped by back-up batteries, last two bad storms the cable techs were out on call (in a major snowfall) checking /re-charge off service truck. Although during long poco outage it really doesnt help unless you are set up with a whole house standby gen.

VST-Mans advice is by far the smartest and safest, installing electrical gear in finished wall spaces (covered/sealed) or drop ceiling is not a very good idea and in some areas forbidden), especially in a commercial facility. If the client requires a theft preventive DVR mounting onsite, build/install a hardened utility closet and charge for it.

Are the black bars rolling? What kind of cams are these (box, Bullet...) Are you using NTSC in a 50HZ PS region.You stated that in day the cams are normal, Are there any other switching devices (lights, motor etc..) that are enabled at night on the same circuit. Are you powering cams from the same phase (at panel) are the cams powered via cat? More info on your layout will help in troubleshooting.

The electromagnetic fields from the current in a lightning stroke can induce currents and voltage in wire and cables inside the building and cause critical damage. The cable entry should never be overlooked. The well known perception that lightning tends to strike elevated objects, such as trees, water towers, antennae, overhead power lines, metal poles etc. contribute to the misconception that burying a cable and driving a "rod" somehow protects it from lightning. Some installers of air terminals, down conductors and ground rods do an ineffective job for "protection" because the install methods are incorrect, which results in a waste of money, time and liability. Building a appropriate protection system entails a wide scope of grounding techniques and electromagnetic compatibility. Some DIYs think that merely connecting surge suppressors inside the building will protect their devices from lightning, while it may may result in an improved ability to withstand mild surges ('normal' surges on AC power lines) it is generally inadequate protection. My conculsion is that due to the unpredictable nature of a lightning strike and the extreme high energy level released there is no commercially off the shelf "plug and Play" available device that can 100% protect from a direct lightning strike, no matter what they claim. Here is a read on grounded principles: (I only take issue with the title, personally I think you can Reduce risk and threat not "eliminate" damage) but still a good read: http://mrtmag.com/techspeak/radio_wellgrounded_principles/ Lightning, protection regarding construction techniques is a ongoing saga that Ive been following for years, in the field and past heavy construction projects that involved certain NFPA codes and standards in concrete encased Electrodes. As well the NEC requirements regarding masts and metal structures. There is a lot of information and reads on this subject as well a huge market for systems, devices and many theories to this natural phenomena, and a lot of arguments. All in all my original post was really to help clarify the importance in working with outdoor circuits lest a person or DIY would think that a rubber isolation to a cam will protect a system from lightning

What is your power supply and source, when you reboot the cam do you get a a standard diagnostic on the screen ( perhaps messages telling you Cam ID- Baud rate -Pan-Tilt origin and Cam COMM) For a dark distorted picture as you describe check the PSU voltage level at the dome and also check the RS485 and RS232 adapter termination for the control issues. Recheck your cam ID settings, baud rate, protocol- A hard reboot should show you a diagnostic screen, did you play with your settings, go to your menu and revert the cam back to factory Default. Could be a possible power related issue with the pic prob and maybe a hardwire prob with the control if your setting are correct.

STI http://www.sti-usa.com/default.asp carry a line of cages and wire guards, I used to fab my own when needed, "borrowed/found" food shopping carts, a little cutting bending and some tacking, pretty tough stuff. Wire guards are very popular in UK, check some of the brit sites.

25-30ft you may be able to get away with using a Mini 10x PTZ if you are sure that a PTZ is the route you want go. IR for near zero light or enhance a dimly lit area but many of the cameras today can produce a good image in low light at that distance without the aid of exterior IR units, really depends on the lighting situation. Also with a PTZ using presets and tours or zoom to motion by external triggers or detect software,can be done but involes a lot of setup and can be problematic if you are in need of a critical security recovery. ( I have yet to try the panasonic with its new auto tracking, I am waiting for one of them to bench) Perhaps you can employ two static cameras and fit them with lenses that will target your specific areas of intrest. A ptz is great if you are going to be hands on and need to monitor areas on the fly but a lot of situations can get by with using static cams. Panasonic WV-CW964 is a quality camera as well the WV-CS954 (formerly the WV-CS854B) the latter would need to be put in a enclosure, the WV-CW964 integrates a weatherproof housing. The TBT mini is sold branded by a lot of dealers I get mine from Rainbow and use the 24vac versions. Tough little PTZ has withstood some very extreme conditions out here in Northwest Montana.

all the dual cards Ive used, Matrox, NVIDA based (geforce)and ATI you can resize application windows across both monitors. You should be able set the resolution, color settings, and refresh rates for each monitor independently.

There are several PTZ cameras with excellent D/N ability. Although cost is not a factor as you stated, more important your layout would help in determining the camera. The distance you need to aquire a usable image,the environmental conditions as well the size of the camera itself (determining if you want a smaller footprint on the building...mini ptz vrs full size) and traditional PTZ or IP based camera. Panasonic PTZs have performed well for my installs as well the mini TBT (branded by others) with ircut are working well for compact placement. Added IR devices are based on the available or exsiting lighting. (and with a PTZ you may need to flood areas or use multiple IR, in some instances, though for you application I doubt it, mounted with a scanner - IR unit incojunction with the camera) Look towards the upper end for better warranty and support in buying PTZ cameras. There are several dealers on the forum who carry cams from Panasonic, Bosch, Sanyo etc. (some cams today have auto tracking features, wide dynamic ability etc..) Important to look for a outdoor (IP - Ingress Protection) rating for any enclosure/ptz cam as well.

There are many MYTHS bout lightning and protection. I think its important to direct this info to DIYs that read this topic and are considering pole mounted cameras rather than to pros who already have a handle on this. The original topic posted - Wood or Galvanized - regarding "attracting" lightning. SAFETY- everything can be a conductor,if you put enough voltage to just about anything its electrons will move, even dirty sneakers... granted metal is a better conductor, provides a better path however since this energy is RF (Radio Frequency) in nature, it can travel over the surface of a substance (aka skin effect) and traditional non-conductors can provide a convenient path in the absence of metal. A camera pole and its composition be it wood or metal has virtually nothing to affect it being struck or "attract". There are differnt stats on this but The AVERAGE lightning bolt carries aprox 30,000 amps of charge, has 100 million volts of electric potential or more, about 50,000°F. and can burn through ANY insulator (destroyed ceramic insulators on power lines are proof to that) Rubber as a electric insulator is only effective to a limited degree and isolation of metal to metal contact regarding outdoor camera pole work is just one part of the overall safe required mechanical and wire method for proper installation. Sometimes I read on the forum how people want to stick a pole in the ground and hang a cam, sometimes with lack of understanding other important issues relating to outdoor electrical and wet location work. Ive installed cams on poles wood & metal that were involved with lighting some were toast others survived. Isolate...yes, isolating a camera can help resolve signal issues and AID in the event of lightning limiting destructive path to cam but wire method, cable/wire placement, entry, protection both ends etc. all will REDUCE risk of damage, not a guarantee. Running circuits, and a true understanding of grounding & bonding, often not understood or improperly used (specific to type of application) and Outdoor (all voltage) with connects to equipment/panels within a dwelling, is a serious undertaking and if done incorrect can be a danger and threat to not only property but personal injury. A seasoned lineman and friend I worked with years ago had a motto to this day I never forgot, "whatever looks safe....check again". We live in a "Plug and Play" era, and this concept has a tendency to overlap into electrical devices that are installed by DIYs with limited knowledge of basic electrical principles and safety. Selling products and all the eye candy, the latest and greatest really mean nothing if installed improperly. I am not saying all work has to be done by a "professional" but when in doubt its a intelligent move not to perform electrical work beyond the limit of ones skills.

small pipe crawler comes in handy, you can build one using their kit great for limited access drop ceiling and attic spaces, even duct work as well inspection for tight areas where nobody left behind a drawing or a mess of wire thrown up over a grid, oh the things you can find in a overhead...., the mini got a pull rating of 23kg (50lbs ) per track http://www.roboprobe.com/CATALOGS/C20-LISTOFALLPIPECRAWLERS.HTML

Nothing "attracts" lightning. Lightning occurs on too large of a scale to be influenced with small objects on the ground, metal objects, poles etc. A storms location alone determines where lightning will hit the ground. If you are going to use a pole be it metal or wood, use safe wire method... note that electrical wiring (coax/UTP/etc) can provide a path for lightning to enter an enclosed structure, ground (ground block) as close to the point of entry as possible and the grounding conductor should be no longer than 20 feet as well any surge supressor device.I do a lot of timber mounted cctv (4x4 6x6 and 8x8 for gated entry arch builds) Pressure treated and concrete footing. Using plastic may resolve some visual or pic related issues but If lightning hits your pole more than likely your camera will be destroyed. You can reduce the damage to your system by follwing safe wire practice If you are going to use your "pole" for a common chase internally, shared pwr for lights then that is differnt discussion.

As survtech stated (in the US) courts/Judges can differ and argue as to what is admissible yet the successful processing of video images must pass four basic legal tests: Reliability, Reproducibility, Security, and Discovery noted in this document:http://www.fbi.gov/hq/lab/fsc/backissu/jan2003/swgitdigital.htm The older standards on VCR/Tape and (SWGIT)Definitions/Guidelines differ by method be it Digital or Tape but the four basic principles remain.