Lolo Wolf

"Who wants to bet someone robs me blind tomorrow and the plate can't be read because of something stupid..." or worse if the tag comes back as stolen, oftn stolen vehicles are used for burglary in residental areas.

Gator, glad to read that it was the pci, I dont work with puter DVRs anymore and rarely use software motion detect cept for indoor conditioned areas, outdoor I rely on hardwire motion sense to trigger activity. You can pick up a cheap 9550 256MB (Radeon/ATI) for your dual, I used to use them for low budget setups worked fine, built several (Dual) for a client driving older dell sony 21" crts with Viewsonic VA912bs. Quite frankly I find software motion detect outdoors to be problematic and highly unreliable, and your video signal has to be optimal. Motion detect recovery using a combination of buried and post mounted sensors has given me the best results, less false hits and weather related triggers that traditional software set ups are not immune to. Ive used avermedia cards and several OEM boards. Computer setups are good for dedicated setups and it is a large market but I use stand alone DVR units only now for my installs. Rory on the forum has a lot hands on with geo and card software, perhaps he can guide you futher with advice.

Scorp, great advice but differ on using plants outdoor near cameras, indoor (covert) is a method but (hanging plant) outdoor near camera, unless its artifical and even that is problematic, will attract a lot of insects/birds etc and trigger excessive motion detect.

Gator....one last shot....remove the PCI video card use only the AGP if your Nivida card has dual output you can still run two monitors, maybe a conflict with the PCI graphic card you should be able to retain your TV card, set up older dell 8100s, bought a load of them years ago on the cheap when building puter dvrs, powerleaped them to 2.8 used avermedia dvr cards woked with three differnt TV cards (older compro Videomate and Radeon Theatrix 550 PRO and WinTV)

To add to the good advice, if you have authorized access to the traveler cable and there is a emergency phone most Ive seen have at least two pairs sometimes four.(One pair dedicated to the cab telephone the other you could use with a UTP/CCTV product) If the building is presently occupied you have to take into consideration the downtime for each cab you can minimize the elevator down-time by doing a pre-wire from the elevator/machine room (often the top floor depends on the system) via 110 punch down blocks to the basement or lower pit and run to your security room. If the building is presently occupied you have to take into consideration the temporary interruption of service and work out a plan with the elevator company or maintenance provider and follow a safe shut down procedure. Your local Dubai, here in the US there are safety guidelines for suspension of service based on occupancy and exit.

Most of the cctv enclosures, (aside from the explosive proof and speciality Stainless Steel ones) are epoxy covered aluminum and then you have the polymer plastic type, just a heads up if you are thinking bout welding on those aluminum enclosures you gotta clean real good actually should blast the whole unit down to skin (base) then prep,the material is often thin and aluminum transmits heat very well and dont be surprised if the rest of the unit starts shrinking and warping. I TIG tack weld alot and till you have a handle on it you may end up spending more time and money on a enclosure designed for what your application is. Forget about gorilla glues and adhesives if anything do a mechanical nuts and bolt bonding use stainless hardware and silicon the joint/seams.

EH4700DB (Pelco) entry glands and mounting holes are located on the top of the enclosure, drop bottom, 13"model:EH4712DB 18" model:EH4718DB, heater/blowers optional (You could fab up a pedestal mount with a pipe extender if you needed more clearance)

Good luck with your job anchorjoe, when you source codes using the NEC as a standard,"Low Voltage" is not a NEC term it falls under Limited Energy pertaining to Class of circuits. If you learn that you are in a area where permit is required and open to inspection interpretation and enforcement of such codes can vary by inspector. Always good to research they are not always correct, dealing with local building codes(your town/city/county) that is pretty much not a good place to be argumentive with inspectors.

No lecture intended, just a heads up to the original poster. Ive had to deal with inspectors most of my past working life in construction (Heavy/Highway/Bridge-Tunnel) Some contracts, inspectors over inspectors Fed/local/State Some guys are OK, the ones that had a shovel in their hands at some point in their lives not just a college degree and a starbucks lunch bucket....if you know what I mean. Everybody though has a job to do and when it comes to safety I take pride in over 35 years on site, above and below ground I had zero issues with any of my crew or myself due to negligence on my part. But ive seen a lot of bad: electrical zapps, laborers crushed, and bridge falls.... enough to warrant outside inspection. Not everyone has the knowledge you have VSTman and cant "police" their own work and often a DIY or fly by night contractoras well a legit one can smoke a house or electrocute someone beside themselves, happens all the time.

You could of used coax (RG6 copper) with a quality amp and get approx 4500 ft installers tell how they run RG-59 600-800 ft. without a amp probably accomplished using topshelf quality cable with ideal cable/conditions, but a amp is needed to insure an acceptible image. Amp placement really can be argued,signal quality is highest at the camera so you are boosting a strong signal to begin with, amp at the monitor (at that distance) often will just boost a degraded signal that is dirty, placement where the signal starts to degrade is ideal but you have to take into consideration that you will have to power to the amp, outdoor would be additional work to properly pull pwr from you exsiting AC. Always try to be conservative when spec on distance be it UTP or cable, its tough to get credible claims made today in this industry based on white papers that often are just used as market hype. At that distance outdoor, no matter what you pull (cat ot cable) use a product that is designed for outdoor service, if you choose to use conduit or not. 3500ft is a bear when you have to revisit the run later after it fails due to water egress. Spend your time and money on quality gear either cable/or as suggested by Rory, UTP amplified products with the correct wire. Your install may work as you stated but nowhere near the performance you could aquire with correct gear specified for your application.

First off, not to be argumentive but codes and permits are two separate issues. Permits are dependent on your locale. State,county each have their own unique set of standards pertaining to contracting/construction/install of electrical devices within commercial/ residential dwellings. Some states require no license to perform the work or permit , however some areas you do need to pull a permit and be opened to inspection also there are States where you must hold a local lic. to perform the actual work. It is a local issue rather than a national standard in regards to permits. The refrence to "codes" Many in this industry refer to cctv as Low Voltage, and that is term thrown around a lot but in reality if you use the NEC as a guide and if your system exceeds the limits in Art 725, then it becomes a chapter 3 wiring method.To answer your original question: Licensing and permit to do work varies by state, and local jurisdictions, check with your local building department. Some states require that you hold a VDV. or LV lic. Some localities set categories of electrical work with specialty licenses (HVAC, elevator electrician, sign electrician alarm/cctv etc) This is not a code issue. Codes should be followed to insure safety, regarding all electrical wire methods. No matter what voltage. LV carries less potential for electrocution, fire danger still exists (overheated wire, arcs etc). With the rise in Data/Network commercial work and security type applications (voice/data/video) it falls in some juristictions under newer IBS standards referred to as Intergrated Building Systems. So whether you are a DIY or professional installer its agood idea to research often the all the changes in safe practice and old/new standards. Dont you want your Doctor to keep up all the latest information regarding your health.

I dont mean to sound critical, but when you pay a "installer" to do a job for you, its important to get in writing what you will get,a total breakdown itemized,cams,method of wire, PS etc. and never be afraid to ask questions on electrical and mechanical work, if your installer will not discuss then time to get another one, make sure all such work is up to code,for your safety as well to insure the performance of the devices. Get a book on basic cctv, and basic electric (low voltage/high voltage) just to help in understanding principles and then you will be able to understand a little bit more when a "installer" performs a service for you.

OK, your cctv cams are 12Vdc or 24vac, some cams support dual voltage...meaning you can use either a 12volt supply or 24, You were asking earlier about adding cams possible PTZ...well if you use that PS you are limited to 12volt cameras, in so far as the question with the AC lead in to your power box it should be isolated from all your LV in the event that a wire ever get damaged it could energize you LV and create a hazard. The wire job in my opinion is sloppy, there is overfill with the wiremold, wire/cable hanging all over the place, looks like a mix of cat, power, RG.

Thats a Altronix ALTV615DC10, 10amp, DC, remember you cant use any 24Vac cams with that PWR supply,in case you are thinking of adding any. Also that is a very sloppy wire job, I would consider that unacceptable.Im trying to see where the AC to board leads are....I suspect they are wrapped in that bundle thru the top middle knockout, if thats the case that is wrong and should be corrected, Altronix has a knockout accessible on the trans side isolated for entry (code) Really need to tidy up all that mess as well check any crossovers to HV, cant see a whole lot in the pics but see enough to suggest you revisit all the runs your installer did. He got so much stuffed behind that wire mold there is a cable sticking out possible pinch point....

I use digicon (for TV work) and Sargent (Rostra Tool Company) www.rostratool.com Mix and match Thomas&Betts, Gilbert, PPC, Rostra has some quality tools and good fit for tight spaces terminating within enclosures and short stub-ins. PPC also are quality.... http://www.ppc-online.com/ beware off knockoffs, cheap compression tools after a few applications will make you wish you used quality.

Any bridge taps,untwisted wire/ split pairs.Check his runs for any shorts/breaks even a staple or clip that might of stabbed connects on all wire paths. What you describe as "Haze" could be a ground loop Is he using the same power source for all equip? Maybe induced voltage pollution, I find in working with baluns and cable its the actual mechanical runs that cause a majority of pic probs (related to placement) rarely it is the device itself, any voltage over 0.5volts can cripple a balun. Could be that the older baluns (some work some dont) suffer from manufacture defect mixed in with the original batch.

you may be better off with a static cam but if you wanna go PTZ go Mini 10x, small compact unless you want a full sized PTZ...big footprint, just my opinion but after all that custom addition work do you really want a big PTZ hangin off it.

Gator, check out Optex and also EMX, used their power post for a scondary entrance gate build, mostly access gear but maybe take a look you maybe able to fab something up, optex may have what you are looking for, I use their Redwall products, (I hardwire, conduit/trench most of my work, got a old 190 dynahoe and track skidsteer so im not a big fan of wireless) The Redwalls are not on the cheap. Once you layout and work from a drawing (being a engineer Im sure you will) you can do all your distance and point refrences and then purchase gear that will satisfy your spec. Rory has a lot of hands on with bullet cams, I would add that the few Ive used are the nuvico (for non critical) their older 36ir was a decent build, as for high res BW all weather with average artifical light, I have had excellent results with the extreme EX10s and EX14s with IR cut D/ N without built in IR,(EX10 perhaps for your doors,small compact, black very tough cam...Ive had many in service for years rough severe weather fairly cost effective) Optex also has a solar power post but Ive yet to use it. I really get excellent results with the panasonic box cams, the newer D/N models as well the older CP474 and less frills the WV-CP254H if you wanna go with a smaller enclosure. Set one up recently with a computar TG10Z0513FCS 5-50mm good results and am benching one now with a comp TG2Z1816FCS 1.8-3.6mm for a special application, wide tight. Im sure you will get good hands on advice here for cams, Ive had very little probs with the panasonics.

Gator, sounds to me like you have a good handle on what needs to be done as well what to expect in the event of a actual home invasion. Vigilance on your part and after reading discription of property and the jail vicinity, 5ac isolation between neighbors etc. yes indeed a breeding ground for criminal activity not overlooking the chance of a jail break, it has been known to happen and documented. The safe room is a excellent idea and a plan that you instruct family members to follow for retreat. Such form of personal security may seem to others as overkill but seems reasonable to me given the circumstances.As you know the principle difference between a perimeter detection system and an intruder detection system, so we are back to the early outdoor detect system, and with a limited budget and not wanting to layout multiple wire runs, you would have to rely on the dual or microwave tech as Collin posted and even that is not cheap for a average homeowner. I have designed and installed some very expensive systems for large property owners, with gated access, some are working ranches some are vacant secondary homes for very wealthy clents, even fabbed up a multi directional traffic controller that would stop a large truck dead in its tracks for a client... When money is no object a lot can be done aside from the fact many of these folks also have live in security personel or private security tours but the bottom line is for you to set up as best you can a early dtect with audible warning so you have enough reaction time after evaluating the alarm/threat allowing ample time to take steps to secure your family. Concentrate on your areas of egress and weakness that you have surveyed Set up quality D/N box cams that will reach your threat, after setting up motion sensors as posted earlier. Layout layers of security. The new Mossberg is only as good as the hands it is in, and I cant stress enough the importance that family members learn how to use and handle a firearm if it is to be part of your security solution. A firearm can be a double edged sword, in a bad situation your own firearm can be turned on yourself, dependent on your family situation... mindful of small children etc.. for home defense some folks keep firearms in multiple locations throughout the dwelling, really from a legal standpoint its alway best to retreat if you can, the use of deadly force is the last resort. Good luck

Sir, there is no one for all solution for what you are trying to do, however a combination of technology and common sense will help in setting up a reasonable buffer in adding to the defense of your property and persons. Unless you are full time operating/monitoring your cctv system as far I am concerned it is all "after the fact" the question is the amount of time it would take to respond to any tresspass or breakin. The courts are filled with cases of people interacting with suspect breakins strongarm etc....and often they are the ones who get charged with a crime in use of deadly force, laws vary from state to state however you had better make damn sure that you understand all the rules for such action. In so far as the cameras for your long distance observation you are better off setting up a quality box cam with proper lens management and take the time to scope and set the view to where you can get a usable stable shot, this is not plug and play, time must be spent in your layout. The use of dedicated detectors as discussed is really a better solution to software driven motion detection, wildlife, wind etc can be very problematic, I only use software programs for indoor spaces. Yes the wire runs will be labor intesive as well the gear, there are systems wireless capable but more money and more tech... I agree with Collin R on many points he has raised but You really seem to very concerned about Home Invasion, if you have prior knowlege or substantal info expecting such a threat, do not rely on police response or any monitored burglar alarm to stop them to save your life. Property offenders, tresspass, vandalism, break and enter common burglary yes then I would agree with a full time monitored burglar system to aid in security and property loss. Ever wonder why most investigators review video after a crime (if one exsists) most response is after the fact rarely while the incident is going down unless a unit is nearby, and perps are long gone, criminal minds that involve themselves in home invasion are extremely dangerous these are people who no doubt will be armed and intent on using force, the actual storming of a door or entrance to a dwelling is in itself a violent act, we are not talking about "cat burglars" here. A hardening up of your property, doors, lights, create open space rid yourself of covered access shrubs, use low landscapes boulders/ditch drains to limit fast exits with auto etc.. In reading your post you seem to be more concerned of activity while you are in the dwelling as opposed to monitoring your property from afar, if this is the case then perhaps Outdoor D/N PTZ with alarm settings to a dedicated detector would be another choice. My own personal set up for my house and property ( I am in a very rual area) is a combination of hard wire detectors with trips to multiple PTZ and static cams as well all my cams are modulated throughout the home so at anytime any room can view. Its a mid sized acreage (relative to this area) close to fifty with three main access points, boundries are double sided cedar fence some areas 8ft tapering down to 6ft with a combination of traditional cattle fence, gated entry with tele control and three PTZs on 18ft timbers staggered within the property, gives me a comanding view of all entry points as well most of the tree stands and open meadows. I dont reside in a high crime area but I take security serious and no matter where you reside today a threat is possible. My set up and combination of my dogs well.... I sleep good at night. Mostly I catch people jacking elk/deer.

look for your Netopia model# here http://www.portforward.com/english/routers/port_forwarding/routerindex.htm good walk through on fowarding and config

Larry, you are asking a lot for a bullet camera to do with those distances, decent lowlight BW on the doors with motion lighting is a good choice and then maybe concentrate on quality long distance cams D/N for your end of boundary to focus on the perimeter where you suspect entry will occur or as you stated "I have two intersecting roads where intruders would likely enter" If it is auto traffic in so far as early warning or alert to cars entering your drive I would suggest you consider direct burial motion devices with trigger to cam/dvr and audible warning inside the dwelling. Your outdoor lighting is key adding protection, a common thief often will break and enter after considering a dwelling is vacant, however home invasion is indeed a serious threat and records have shown many end with loss of life. Such an assault if it did occur may take place in the very early hours when you or loved ones are sleeping, by then the reaction time and use of deadly force to protect oneself dimishes rapidly. I understand your concern, its a good idea to monitor/record traffic and review often suspect autos that maybe setting up your property and looking for weakspots. With all the sophisticated gear today In so far as warning/alert/detection there is very little that can replace a well trained dog. A working dog who is run within the dwelling or outside within the property and sole purpose is to alert any trespass, not so much a attack dog like in the movies (hollywood nonsense) but a trained perimeter dog who will bark and take a agressive stance till the command is given to cease even if they are neutralized their last dying breathe will be to warn you. A dog or dogs like that will give you ample time to engage the suspects if you choose to do so with a firearm or perhaps give you a window to contact police and or seek a safe retreat. In regards to cams I have had excellent D/N results with Extreme, Panasonic, Sanyo and some of the higher end Nuvico bullets. Ive used some of the Aver 5000 cards in the past but primary installs now use dedicated DVR systems, perhaps others on the board could give you more insight on the X-10 set up with your card and bullet cams choices (I prefer box cams with enclosures)

Rick, glad to read your mini is doing well, the Korean Minis (TBT/Rainbow) Ive been using have performed well too, temps down to -28 lower with wind chill, no fogging, no malfunction and survived 2 major power outs... I am using them now as my primary mini for installs now, did not have good luck with the new Nuvico, sticking with the TBT.

"Also, I can't imagine it would be illegal to install a CCTV in a commercial building" Sir I was nor infering that cctv cant be installed I was only informing you of the codes and rules that do stand in some states, without knowing where you were from I thought it would be a good idea to inform you to check before you start. I am not questioning your ability but it might pay in the long run to consult with a professional installer considering you are operating a business with public access and even though there is no license needed for the install Ohio is in the process of a change, that according to the NBFAA....http://www.securityinfowatch.com/online/Standards-and-Legislation/12816SIW320 From the LV issues and following correct wire methods you still have to follow the requirements, Art. 820 if you're installing coax for a closed-circuit television in a security system, Art. 820 applies. And if you use coax to connect antennas to equipment (810.3) or to set up local area networks, you must also follow the requirements set forth in Art. 820. Im not going to go into a speech about codes but really pays to follow this rules, they are set forth for a reason....safety And I am sure you want to be safe for you customers and also not put any liability into play in the event of a acciden/fire due to a flawed install Its not so much what a local building commissoner says its what your insurance company says in the long run, and if you do get "the ok and blessing" installing LV/HV in a Hotel I would suggest you get that in writing. Good Luck and I am sure there are forum members here who can direct you to gear.

If it is the older PICO2000 there is a lot of pirate and probs related to auction/web sales check out this past read http://www.driversearch.com/forums/video/7225.html the above link in 1st post was to a distributor