Lolo Wolf

http://www.alibaba.com/catalog/10855501/DVR_PCI_Card_for_CCTV_System.html Model No: DSR2000 Malaysia Co, maybe you can contact them direct, good luck

Dont mean to pry but there are strict fire codes and compliance in the Hotel industry or anywhere commercial occupancy is concerned, before you attempt to do any wire runs or LV/HV work you should make sure you are legal in the event of a problem that could arise from a DIY install.

Thanks Scorp.....for me the best part of living is learning, hands on.... from my own and others mistakes... all trades/work....gotten a lot of grounded advice here as well. Regards

sorry if I did that Rory late night.....scorp got my coments quote in his post.... good luck on your medical stuff in FLA...regards

scorp.... really think its always a good idea to armor/conduit outside, for a permanent install especially when one is thinking bout running on a tree should be no exposed cabling ....critters, (rats/mice/ squirrels/ birds etc) will chew/ peck on everything even the cam itself. You could camo the conduit for human observation as you stated with paint or match the bark but critters dont care most rodents are gnawers.

Ive used the older WV-CS854Bs now the WV-CS954 and for lower budgets (less advanced features) the WV-CS574 with outdoor enclosures all have performed well and really cant speak for the pelco products as I have stopped using their gear. The WV-CW964 I am getting one for a job in the spring and one for myself, have used some older Sanyos as well in the past (Vcc-9100EXC) and some China OEM minis and full size PTZs, some good some rough.....Not trying to push one company over another but Panasonic works good for me over the years, their D/N box cams as well.

Others may differ....and maybe outta your budget (retail) but I suggest you take a look at the Panasonic line of D/N PTZs.

Ok so it is a computer, try removing the card and re-seat it, while you are in there look a make sure all the conects are sound as well make sure nothing is interfering with the input on the card itself any contact with the frame etc...

I just saw the pic you posted, I would look for any interference on your signal input, the false reading you are getting may not be false at all you just cant see it it, could be very faint maybe a voltage issue can you swap to another cam use a short cable direct to the dvr position the cam, aim at a static point (no change) then introduce some motion and retest, see if it is still problematic

I observed the clip and saw shrub/tree/branch movement throughout, (small branch/leaves in uppermost right hand corner of screen) dont know what motion detect software you are using but can you mask and re-calculate, The software I use (I prefer to use external motion devices )enable me to compare frames and then I can set the detection to start with a value of consecutive motions , the detect entered at a fixed value after positioning where I want to record or set with a a dynamic trigger. Perhaps erratic pic probs, could not see the video that well on youtube.. is this a computer card type dvr, if so did you do any recent work on the puter.

Kinda tough to make a definitive call without more info, you say radom channels, are any channels not dirty or is it the entire set of installed cams?Looking at your video, I would start by revisiting your terminations and make sure all your fittings are correct (crimp, compression,twist on whatever you employed) doesnt appear to be a ground loop cant really see the screen too well from the sample, the distortion isnt rolling or consistent , What kind of DVR is it (stand alone or PC?) Quick test on site go direct from cam (pick the worst one and observe on a test monitor bypass your dvr input, if that comes back clean then work your way back to the DVR itself and check connects, if they are solid then start to examin your power issues.... DVR power and cam power....voltage, common faults, mains, wire, any new devices thrown into the mix, placement or shared AC etc.. I have seen similar probs with pixel smearing and quick lines of what looks like voltage interfering with image on some PC DVRs that share other video/card devices, but a good place to start would be the hardwire connects first. The frozen images and video loss could be a loose contact or possible that a shield is contacting the conductor causing radom dropoutsand dirt. When cams terminate to a dvr sometimes a internal failure on the imput circuits can cause erractic probs such as yours.. also check and make sure nothing is touching the imputs, (check the actual bnc fittings make sure they are spaced and secure) look for any sources of possible induced ac, pollution. You had 10 months of clean operation, see if any changes have been made onsite, elctrical or tampering.

Do a web search for: CVCRJ11A I think Mace sells Cable Adapters for RJ-11E Observation Systems/various vendors

Try using a Bescor battery pack, shoulder or waist, they have a lot of variations with chargers, Ive got a single pouch 12volt , rarely use it, majority of my cams are 24VAC, onsite outdoors just temp lead from a 24transformer off my truck welder/gen.

I source a lot through Grainger: http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/start.shtml but local to you, retail Im sure you can find splice kits, check The HomeCentre, West Atlantic Drive Freeport or online try midsouth http://midsouthcable.com/EtconSplice.htm they carry Etcon proSplice kits and the last time I dealt with them they answer the phone, dependent on the wire/cable with rg59 or power like 18-2 etc. LV as you described I would revisit the splice and remove the tape, redo the splice and go with a heat shrink or a Etcon cap with less fear of haunting you later. If you wanna fly out here bring some snowshoes and hot rum....I'll make the coffee.....

Rory, used the Etcon line for years good products also look at the 3M line of cold and heat shrink products they have a very diverse selection of splice kits (all voltage, direct burial rated) worth every penny in a repair situation, folks out here run wild on backhoes and ditchwitches without doing a locate, cut cable and ripout conduit all the time. Never leave home without them. A hot splice is the best, use a heatgun or hairdryer and wave till the ooze flows. when done correctly it will near outlast the wire.

Yes Ive used some of those Nuvico bullets with pretty good results for non critical applications, dont like their domes . Sorry for off topic: But are you using a condensate pump? or gravity flow with that drain? Make sure that your gutter system is always clean so the condensate water drains with a good flow. Ive seen a lot of attic condensate drains fail due to long runs and fitted in closed spaces that rarely are inspected before its too late, especially when air handlers reside over finished living space. Anyway good luck with your cams/system and house work. Best of health to you.

That cam in DSC_0469.jpg Looks very much like a Nuvico NVCC-W27IR30N or a W28IR12N, sorry off topic, attic air handler but where does that condensate drain terminate?

Perhaps others can advise on DVR with more info would help PC card or lowbudget stand alone. Your choice of tree placement take heed to these factors, critters (rodents, birds etc) make sure you armor your cable also branch/limb movement,... done some installs on trees (some temp for covert and others permanent for wildlife capture) Dependent on your location also take into consideration falling ice/snow. Used some mini enclosures covered with ponderosa pine bark (construction adhesive for bonding) all exposed conduit from the ground up sheathed with bark as well, stealth and the primary nuisance was spider and woodpecker activity in front of the lens.

DSC_0460.jpg is siamese laying close over a run of what looks to me to be some 12awg, may cause some pic issues...also a good idea to check and make sure no fasteners stabbed any of your cam cabling often there is a tendency of blind nailing when working on exisiting construction with addition work, curious whats that PVC for above the header?

For me the problem with vented enclosures is insects and dust intrusion, the ganz is well designed to the IP-67 spec with a flow-through air channel that is between the housing and the body. Ive installed and have many in service with little or no maintance aside from wiping the view window, which should be done as needed anyway. Your observation of the vents on top I think incorrect on the installers part.

mikesus, also consider how you want to mount the enclosure, one of the reasons I use the Ganz it has prewire/video cable/power thru the wall bracket, no exposed cable (a lot of my installs are on poles, wooden timbers with conduit to box and the thru bracket is clean) if you purchase one that doesnt look for one that has liquid tight fittings, try to avoid the cheaper enclosures that so many websites sell and claim to be "outdoor" North Carolina....you folks get some cold and is the area humid? If so go with a heater/blower combo to minimize fogging. Good luck with the camera, Ive had excellent results with Panasonic D/N box cams.

Hello, Ive installed quite a few of the older CP474s that panasonic replaced with your CP484, excellent camera... you really need to check all the specs on your choice for a quality outdoor enclosure, pay attention to protection rating IP designation and dependent on your area, dust etc.. Ive had very good results with CBC-Ganz GH-24Kit it is IP-67 rated and has a low current draw of only 350ma. Good idea to go with a heater, Ive only had the need for blower/fan with my outdoor PTZ installs (Montana) Perhaps you are looking for smaller footprint on the house if so make sure whatever you buy has a clearly labeled rating, (I did not see one on the spec listed at the STI site) here is a good read on understanding IP and Nema ratings http://www.ezscreen.com/ip_ratings.htm

Note:The UF-100s are powered by extreme ps supply which share the same 20 amp circuit as the altronix

Two of my last PTZ installs running blower/fan/heater with added dual UF-100 IR powered by a single outdoor ALTRONIX WPTV244300UL, all power run approx. 450ft on 18/2 with a 220ft run to mains dedicated (20amp 12awg) All video on rg59 and data cat5....no problems, better to over size and spec when pulling power (outdoor trenching etc.) in the event of a future upgrade and not have to revisit. Ive seen DIY wall warts plugged into garages and even spliced into patio lighting, runs better than 200ft to cams outdoor 24/12 volt with no consideration to wire gauge or protection and proper outdoor placement and then complain or ask why their cams dont work or breakers keep tripping. Would you want a HVAC installer to undersze a system for your space or use minimal requirements, better to size proper and address all voltage issues safely. No matter what gauge wire used if it isnt used within its spec and placed correct regarding outdoor, install it is subject to failure.

Those Nuvico cams have Fan/heater as well the RS-485 for control, are the cams to be placed together viewing alternate views? You mention outdoor on pole, if so take into consideration the environmental conditions in determining your choice of cable and or cat5. If you go with rg59 use a outdoor rated cable as well for your cat, If you choose to power the 40VA X2 you may want to look into a single box PS supply that can handle both and if the location has accessible power get a outdoor rated supply box and shorten your pwr run to each cam. Follow safe wire practice and special attention working with outdoor electrical, depth of cable, trenching, exsiting utilities, conduit if you choose etc.. also make sure your pole is mechanicaly, sound there are several factors with electrical devices (whether cams or lights, all voltage) placed on poles. You may want to pull a spare when working with outdoor cable or cat for distances over 100ft in the event of a failure or upgrade (additional cams) In so far as baluns (brands) that subject has been written about many times on the forum, lots of differnt views you can read through the past posts, I use Nitek and often use the VH439 mini HUB for DVR connects and have used NVT as well Muxlab with good results even used some cheap OEM ground loop blocking Baluns that have performed well. Although I prefer to use RG59 for most of my work which is outdoor. The active balun is for use in extended distance to lessen loss as it is powered, the standard balun is not. Go to any of the Balun websites Nitek, Muxlab or NVT and have a good read on the Faqs pertaing to Balun usage and their claims (specs)