bike_rider

I use one of these testers. Different color terminators so you can term multiple ends, go back to the head and figure out which one is which.

Yes, you are. You use complete sentences to describe what you need; you've done your home work; you've included photos of the install site. You haven't asked for a "cheap" solution. Group hug.

OR 22 people have never seen this lens and have no idea. OR 22 people are busy and are in no rush to answer a question that you could answer with a little google work. Google knows the answers to ALL simple questions; if you can't find it with Google, it isn't a simple question. Computar technical manual: http://computarganz.com/misc/Computar_Lens_Tech_0208.pdf Simple motor control. IF there is a way to make this work with an RS-484 signal it would involve some kind of specialized converter. Such a thing might exist, but I doubt it. Too niche. Try this instead http://computarganz.com/product_view.cfm?product_id=670

Can you be more specific about what exactly each camera is expected to do? Think it terms of distance to the target, area you want to cover and how much detail you want to pick up. Why are you set on IR? Visisble light is usually not hard to add. IR is good when you want (semi) convert, but do you need it to be dark? Mobile access- which phone platform? Some DVRs support pltforms more than others. You'll need a power supply for the cameras, a UPS, siamese cable, some tools, connectors, etc

The Pany I installed (yea, sample size "1") only spoke 485, so I never looked any further. Regardless, back to the OP, I'm not sold on the value of PTZ for home use. Mine fills a specific role, but it was darn expensive. Why do you think you need a PTZ? Are you going to monitor it and control it?

I found this nice link that lays out how to configure GV for PTZ. http://www.cctvcamerapros.com/Geovision-PTZ-Setup-s/153.htm

Yes a 5-50 will cover the range from 5mm to 50mm. Since 24 is nicely in the middle, then 5-50 is a good range to get so you are flexible. The calculators are good for a rough estimate. You don't want to get a 5-50 when you really wanted 65. Lots of bullets max out at between 9 and 12 mm and that can be be a real problem if you want to see faces clearly because you have to put the camera really close to the subject. So, you don't have to know exactly what mm you need, but you should have some idea.

It does use the serial port in ADDITION to the IO card. (At least mine does). PC serial ports speak RS-232, PTZs speak RS-484. That would be RS-485... and not all PTZs are limited to it. I've only ever run across ONE PTZ that would ONLY work with RS-485 - all the others so far work just fine with a direct RS-232 connection. 484/485, what's a digit amoung friends? Regardless, I don't know if GV speaks 232.

Either the first one or the last one. Not GV-IO-USB-BOX Geovision USB Box. Check the Geovision web site for installation manuals to see how they connect. http://www.geovision.com.tw/english/3_1.asp?stable1=Pro&sfiled=pgid&pno=13

It does use the serial port in ADDITION to the IO card. (At least mine does). PC serial ports speak RS-232, PTZs speak RS-484.

I dont see any event of a deleted, moved, or edited post for this thread or your username. Yeah, I think I must have been having a senior moment. I thought I pushed the button, but maybe not.

I've written 2 posts to this thread that disappeared. Anyway, shutter speed depends on what you are trying to shoot. How fast is it moving and what direction? I use 1/1000 (I think) to stop 30 mph cross traffic. Works great in the day, but that camera is blind at night. If you want to see what it takes to stop motion in front of your house, take some sample photos of passing traffic (during the day). Set your camera to manual shutter speed and try 1/250, 1/500, 1/1000 and 1/2000 (if you can - that's pretty fast). I bet you can do it on 1/200 - 1/500 or so if they are coming at you.

Geovision makes an I/O card that has the RS-485 connector you need. You'll need to run another pair of wires to the camera for the PTZ control signal. It is pretty straight forward. I think the leads are labeled in/out, so remember that "in" on the camera is "out" on the computer.(They maybe +/-, I can't remember.) Once you have the card installed, the GV software should see it. You then tag one of the cameras as being PTZ and identify the interface. Once that's done, you will get an on screen control panel when you select that camera. Works with the remote software as well, including phones.

I don't know about those lenses, but the Pany is a good camera. My 484 is easily my best camera. If the description does not say "IR Corrected", then it isn't. Focal length is all about how much area you want to cover. Check out the many calculators on the web, http://www.webcamsoft.com/en/faq/lens_calc.html Let's say you want to cover a lane (one lane), call it 10 feet wide, at a distance of 50 feet. On a 1/3" sensor camera, that's 24mm. It is always nice to get a vari-focal lens so you can fine tune.

Yes, if your exposure is 1/20 of a second, then you can't get more than 20 fps. That rarely is a problem because everything would be blurry at that speed, so I can't imagine anyone wanting that exposure for CCTV.

Glad that worked out for you. It took me months to get all the peices of my GV setup working the way I want. The ability, and complexity, is amazing.

Geovision can and does record at higher res than the clip you have posted. I'm at work , so I can't check the settings. You will have to poke around at each camera's setting to see what it is set for. Chekc this link, http://www.cctvcamerapros.com/Geovision-Video-Record-Resolution-s/247.htm and try the search engine on the forum. I can't find it righ tnow, but I know that Rory had done a post with recommendations for the best quality settings.

You did not answer my other question. How are you pulling the clips? That last one still is not "full sized"

Non-browser based viewing isn't that much different to setup than browser based. The biggest challenge is figuring out which ports to forward through the router.

How are you pulling the clips? That one still came through as 360x240.

Your problems isn't smart FPS, it is recording size. Set it to 720x480, deinterlaced. You will be limited by the quality of "cheap" cameras, but you should be able to set the higher res.

I'm betting a hardware problem. Notice that the GV software is drawing the screen right, except where there is camera input. All the camera input is bad, so it probably is the card or mobo. That does not look like a video driver problem, but did you try turning direct draw on/off?

I have a Panasonic CP484 (and the dome equivalent) and I'm very happy with them. I'm now working on a system design for a neighbor and I've started looking at the Samsung SHC-737. I'm interested in the effectiveness of the "highlight compensation" the 737 offers. The camera would cover an intersection, lit by some sodium vapor lamps at night. Everyone always hopes they can get some license plates, but of course that's a hit or miss thing at this price range, especially with a questionable choke point. So, does anyone have experience with both cameras and can offer a comparison? thanks

These are very limited cameras. The C1 is not the same as the C101. The C1 maxes at 7.5 fps. the C101 does 30 fps. I have a C121 (WiFi version of the C101 I think) pointed at my cats so I can watch them from work. Image quality is not bad IF there is enough light. Shutter speed is 1/30, 1/60 or 1/120 (I think), so fast motion will be blurry. At 1/60 the inside of a house with lights off, with the curtains closed, is too dark to be useful. C1 shows minimum illumination of 10 lux, C101 shows 5 lux. Fixed focus and fixed field of view. A person is barely recognizable if they are more than 3 meters away. Even then, it is mostly body shape and clothes color. You will need some sort of central software to gather data streams from the cameras. They only record around 2 minutes internally. This sample is at a shutter speed of 1/30 second.

The program should be on the CD. I think it is GView2. Install onto your PC and use Active Sync to install it on the phone.