bike_rider

We have the same problem on the roads with hills, soccer mom in a Lexus SUV talking on the cell/kids in back/sipping a 'gourmet' coffee...good luck. Just remember to adjust up the amount of IR you need by shutter speed and however much you cut the AGC. Could try some test pics at a slower shutter to get the AGC dialed in tested with the CNB IR, then factor in the increase in shutter speed to see what you need. Yeah, that's part of the issue with quoted distances and lux ratings. If you can use 1/30 shutter speed, you might actually see something.

Thanks Mike. I'm off axis about 25 degrees, so headlights are not an issue. I do have some long pass filters but they aren't going to address my issue of a lack of illumination. While I'm glad to hear that the Raytech will really cover 100+ feet, another $1000+ is out of the budget. The cars on my road go surprisingly fast for down hill into a cul-de-sac. 35 mph is common.

Thanks guys. I have an MIR1000 and a generic (CM Vision from Amazon). These max out around 50-60 feet to illuminate a person or reflect a plate. I did notice that my one IP camera (Sony Ch140) did not seem to be nearly as sensitive as the analog Pany 484s. Is this typical of MP IP cameras or are some more sensitive in IR? IR corrected lenses on both cameras.

Distance is all about lens focal length. A longer lens is what you need.

Never let the facts get in the way of a good outrage. The home owner got in his car and ran down the thief. That lead to 2 weeks in the hospital and 6 weeks in a wheelchair. Insurance companies do not care about right or wrong, only about profit and loss. They decided it was cheaper to pay than to fight it.

buellwinkle - can you comment on the differences between Acti's ACM and TCM lines? camera-newbie - I'm pretty sure Sanyo is getting out of the CCTV business.

I'd look toward the systems that motor bike riders and track day drivers use. Something like a VIO POV or even a couple of GoPro cameras. If the point is to have video "just in case", then you don't need a long recording history. Ideally you'd get a system that comes on when the car is on and records in a continuous loop of a few hours.

The only way I've found to do it is to get an Android device that has HDMI out. Of course that requires a TV that has HDMI in.

Optex passive infrared detectors on the perimeter outside, tied to your DVR. DVR set to email images to your smart phone when the PIR goes off. You can't get within 30 feet of my house without me getting an image on my phone.

If you mean encoders, Yes. I only used the demo for a week or so, but the level of integration was impressive. Warning, when Milestone connects to your controller, it will wipe out all existing alert configurations on the device.

You have the right list of equipment, no alarm system needed. The Optex PIR needs some power (10-13V DC) and a pair of wires to connect to the IO ports on the DVR or (optionally) on the camera, so you run a 4 wire set to the PIR. Most IO units have the option to be "normally opened" or "normally closed" and then the DVR usually will have the same options for its input from the PIR. You just have to set both ends to the same value. On the Optex PIRs, this is based on which connector you use inside the unit.

Unfortunately, this is the only place where I can mount the camera as vehicles with trailer boats come in. However, as I said before the distance is 12m (40ft) which is clearly in the specified range of this camera. Those photos are taken with even an additional IR illuminator on. To get this working what do you think about this: 1/ I haven't tried it but could there be any interference with the additional IR illuminator that was already mounted? 2/ In your experience do you think the one model up (http://www.ktnc.co.kr/english/viewtopic.php?t=924) could do the trick? 3/ Buy a really heavy duty IR illuminator and floodlighting the whole entrance? In addition I could straighten the cars up with speed bumps on either side. Do you have any other suggestions? Thank you. Any progress on this? A neighbor has the same camera and is not happy with the results. IR sensitivity seems to be very poor.

Blue Iris's web interface is easily changed to display whichever set of cameras you need. Head over to cam-it.org for the BI support forum.

There is no one correct answer. I have signs and I know that has made some bad guys wonder up the street and skip my house. My house is no more interesting than anyone else's but the cameras make it a bit more work. Most criminals are my place are lazy opportunists. Every deterent helps.

I think what that means is that a non ir corrected lens will not "see" my external ir illuminator Is that correct? No, it means that your image will be hopelessly out of focus. IR wavelengths pass through lenses differently than visible light, so the lens needs to be able to compensate for this to retain focus. Strictly speaking, all wavelengths pass through lenses slightly differently - that's part of how a prism works to split light.

if you have an IR light source, you need an IR corrected lens. If you do not have an IR light source, you do not.

As Rory says, IR motion sensors are the "best" way to get motion alerts. Still not fool proof (cats and such), but much better than motion based. The DVRs should have some sort of I/O or alarm inputs. BTW, Synology is $50 per camera for the license. Definitely not worth the price for their software. Milestone is far better for the same price.

Ahh ok so what does it mean when camera specs say Electronic Shutter: 1/60 ~ 1/100,000 That's just the range of potential values. You need a way (through the on screen display usually) to set a minimum or a fixed value. Check your manual.

You must be looking at the wrong app. IP Cam Viewer by Robert Chou. It is the go to app for viewing IP cameras.

Used to use APC. Now I use Cyberpower. You should be able to estimate how much time you need using any of the on line capacity calculators. Figure on 60 minutes and you'll be fine. As a bonus, connect the UPS to your PC and set it up to send an email if/when the power goes out. I know that the last people to target my house started with trying to cut the power. They gave up the idea when they saw the cameras. The point is, if the power goes out, I want to know. If you are using an internet based notification system, like I am, you need to make sure that the full data connection is on a UPS - router, firewall, network switch, etc. No sense in trying to send an email that says "Help! The bad guys cut the power." if your internet connection goes down with the power.

When thinking about camera resolutions, do not think about distance - think about field of view. If you are looking at a choke point, like a gate or walkway, like Soudy said, megapixels are not needed. standard definition cameras do well if you are coving an area less than 8-10 feet wide. When I started out I was overwhelmed by the chocies too. I planned what I wanted to cover, but then only bought one camera at a time. I have 8 different cameras from 7 makers. The closest I got to duplicates was a box version and a dome version of a Panasonic 484. Since your PD will not respond to alarms, you need to think about how you will be notified if there something happening. video based motion detection is not reliable. I use a few passive IR sensors tied into my system. They point the PTZ (not money well spent) and send images to my phone and email account. I always know when the UPS guy arrives. Skip the PTZ - expensive and just as easy to do with a few (much cheaper) cameras. Think hard about where you put your cameras. Avoid the trap of putting them looking down on doors or all you will see is baseball caps.

16 MP sure does look nice. BTW, firefox had no issues with the certificate.

Just to clarify: IP != megapixel. There are standard-def (usually VGA, 640x480) IP cameras available, that will typically have the same low-light capabilities as their analog equivalents. True. I've written off SD IP cameras so much that I don't even consider them.

IP cameras are going to be (a little to a lot) more expensive and usually do not do well in low light. OTOH, they can produce much better image quality. I'm moving from all analog cameras to IP (slowly) so that I can get high rez and use PC based software without a capture card. what do you want to see on your cameras? General activity? Faces (not likely if the cameras are mounted high). Do you hope to produce actionable video or just want to know what is going on? Think about the area you want to cover, how much detail you want from that area and what lens size you will need to achive those things. Many (but not all) dome cameras have limited focal lengths - good for wide angle, but not zooming in.

Sorry - Vivotek 8332. Not in the same league as Axis (or Sony). you have expensive tastes If you don't need the zoom of the Q1755 (or the audio) (and really do you?), you'd get better value from other cameras. We are into cameras I've have not used, but have researched a lot about. For all around use, the top tier cameras (at these resolutions) include Axis P1344 and Sony Ch140. Somebody else will have to offer other suggestions. I plan to buy the Sony as my next camera. if low light performance is not a prime concern, the Sony CH 210 would be on my list. Not a day/night camera, but it could have its place. I saw a review of the IQ042SI (again, not a day/night) that was very interesting; I'd try to find more samples of that if I was not looking for a true day/night camera. Hmm, the IQ752 just popped up in another thread. More choices. If you buy a box camera (replaceable lens), don't go cheap on the lens.