Thud

Anyone?

Oh, EVERYBODY ELSE can't solve you're problem. I think it's time for you to grow up. Threatening lawsuits because you can't figure out your IP cam system. You have a serious attitude problem. Talking like an idiot and asking for help. "Too bad you really are incapable of solving this problem". We all figured it out. OUR systems work. Grow up

Any help here is greatly appreciated. I found this cheap PTZ (temporary mount for testing) at a thrift shop for $24 and it was in an endless restart loop. I opened it up and it was a loose plug on the power board. No more cycling, I'm now able to see video in Sighthound and IP Camera Viewer but obviously no optical zoom or Pan. I can reach the cam at it's IP address but I have a very unusual Internet setup right now (cellular hotspot through bridged router to wired connection to camera) so when I'm prompted to download the Live View Plug in I get a no internet pop up message. The link to the plug in leads to Huisuncctv website but all the download links are dead there. Does anyone have this plug in or any suggestions? Also any tip about operating systems/browsers that it will work with and settings would be appreciated.

There's a lot of reasons people do what they do that we aren't privy to so don't judge the people you're asking to help you too harshly. But if you are considering outdoor camera notificaTions be aware that it is extremely hard to minimize false alarms from outdoor cameras that depend solely on video stream analytics as most cameras do. When I hear someone say "I don't need higher res because I'll be getting notifications" I tell them that in my experience most end users enjoy viewing their alerts for a very short time. You can only view so many alerts that turn out to be cats, windy day tree shadows, delivery people, meter readers, spiders and bees crawling across the lens and fog or mist blowing by before they realize that intrusions are very, very rare and it takes a very dedicated person to view 3 or more false arms a day while they're trying to work for 2 years before the actual breach occurs. And the ironic thing is in in order to do its job the video motion detection cameras HAVE to report these events to you because they are major events in view of the system and it can't take a chance of NOT notifying you (that bee looks like a bus up close or that may be some smart criminal DISGUISED as a cat ). I think if you want to minimize false alerts you need passive infrared on the cameras (or if you have a high budget flir/lorex thermal cameras) or stand alone passive sensors along with ALL IMPORTANT door and windows sensors and glass break sensors. These are more appropriate for intrusion detection and notification situations. One of the most effective uses of security video that most end user don't have a clear understanding of is evidence for Police and courts. This requires the right resolution lenses and placement to be effective. I think the recommended resolution of the captured image is 700tvl for the face height to be admissible in court. If you have a 1080p cam that is like half the frame. The way to do this with normal resolution cameras is putting them in a hidden location where the perpetrator will pass within view. or higher res cameras with more powerful lenses to capture high res imges at a distance. Then when your glass break sensor alerts you the alarm scares them off or the cops catch them when you call them and you have ironclad video evidence to CONVICT. And just sayin, not being a dick might be a better approach next time.

I just noticed this post and I'm not sure if anyone else haws suggested this but in this situation I will move IR illuminators around while the site wnile the home/siteowner views the feed and at $25 per illuminators can fix many problems.

I have a ds-cd3132 was chinese model english interface. Like an idiot I flashed it to 5.2 CHINESE INTERFACE. Found 5.2 english which fixed it though. So now I have international 5.2 and it does show up in ezviz but ABCDEF Verification code doesn't work. any ideas?

With my Hikvision cams the setting that causes the most horizontal noise is GAIN. WDR smooths the image but causes "sparkle". NOISE REDUCTION calms the noise but you lose a little detail. I use these cams in an area with low ambient light and I want to see beyond the IR range so I usually set; Exposure Time to 1/12 a trade off to increase brightness without having to resort to increasing GAIN Gain to <50 Noise Reduction to 100 WDR to 100 In situations with more Ambient light or more IR coverage you will lower noise most by lowering GAIN then WDR.

I have had many domes and you can address the halo effect in two ways. First is to make sure your dome is SPOTLESSLY CLEAN. Not sprayed and wiped but cleaned and then polished with clean microfiber inside and out. At this point most halo will diminish as the humidity drops within the camera due to the heat generated by the electronics. Second and a little more involved is isolating the emitters from the lens by attaching a black foam strip (for LED's which are oriented in a vertical line) or circle (washer shape for LEDS which surround the lens) to isolate the reflection of the emitters from the lens. If you create a light barrier and still experience halo then it is definitely a lens smudging, cleanliness issue. The hardest part of creating a foam barrier is finding the perfect thickness of foam so that it doesn't get forced out of position when you attach the dome.