jazzar

simple google on the make provides this on youtube- setup unit- don't know if its the exact same model as yours but will probably be very similar. see:- http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U9QmU5Qem9A or http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CklvWM1IbS0 didn't watch them since I don't know anything about them - maybe help you out.

I previously posted this for issue with trying to viewing video- ususlyy just an emty window displayed instead of the video image:- its probably windows 7 or 8 that is the problem viewing video- try running laptop in xp mode if you can or try an xp laptop. the nvr should be recording/playing fine. in ie11 you can click on the cog-tools icon on top right and select f12 tools this allows you to set up older style browsers and windows operation modes for internet explorer- not 100% up on it but you could investigate with these. there are also all sorts of active x components in windows 7 that are disabled- they may need to be enabled. Its a nightmare the number of settings that can be tweeked. Hope it can help.

cant really answer your question but could I ask why you need such a high frame rate for playback- most IP systems I come across 5 to 6 frames a second are sufficient. Unless fast motion is taking place or slight of hand in the likes of a jewellers shop or a if a casino type environment is being monitored I would think you would not lose much. maybe others can help with your specific query. good luck.

If its just the video picture you want without menu control etc you could just link each dvr monitor output into a 4way amp or media converter and send it over to each monitoring position and cut out the problematic Pi solution. I am sure there are hdmi and vga amps out there and video to Ip codecs which can provide multiple streams across Ip for whichever way you choose.

The biggest impact on the processor is in recording if its running at an average of 5 frames(pictures) a second per camera every second of every minute of every hour for 24hrs a day 7 days a week.. basically the record process is a constant one. If you then add on a seperate viewing process you can see how a powerfull processor is required. better to have MORE instead of LESS- WITH more you will get the job done.

you can buy an inline punch down connector instead of the coupler, this would give a better connection.

I would use a separate dedicated graphics card, this will free up resources from the built in graphics and will give you the best result.

have you tried to google the info printed on the big chip on the blue board- that might give you a clue as to what function it does.

Depends on what type of signal you want to send, you can send analogue signals across multimode fibre up to approx. 5km you would use a Tx unit at the camera end and an Rx unit at the control side. You can use 1 fibre for each signal or use more expensive multichannel units which send multiple analogue signals down 1 fibre ie 4 way or 8way. If you are going to send an IP data stream down the fibre multimode will be limited to about 500m to meet Cat 5 standards- you can check out on internet for om1,om2,om3,om4,om5 fibre standards across Ethernet to get further info. Hd IP will consume a lot of bandwidth if you have many cameras so your network capacity needs to be able to handle the data and then some spare for future expansion. Good luck with your project.

have you set up port forwarding on the router to allow external traffic through the router to the dvr. ie set up new service with the video ports and set firewall rules on router to allow inbound traffic through to the dvr.

I found active x components in ie11 stopped web pages and cctv viewer from displaying- try selecting custom security and allowing most active x under settings see how it goes then.

see:- http://www.audiocctv.com/news-about-cctv-equipments/391.html for wdr and atr definitions. can you show pictures of camera without wdr activated then one with wdr activated- send to manufacturer of camera and ask for their advice if the picture is not considerably improved with the wdr activated.

look at the bottom of the ebay page which I posted earlier on this thread it shows the different models and what functions you get ie st893,st894 etc. some have the multimeter function some don't, some have fibre measurement some don't- have a look at the different model to see what extra or less functions you are getting /not getting for your 10 dollar difference. I have the model which measures fibre signals and also has the multimeter- I am very happy with its performance- the 12v dc output has been a life saver at times.

have you tried the manufacturer for the info

I agree with q2u - all eggs in one basket - 1 switch for all means a catastrophic failure if anything goes wrong with the switch. I would split it into 2- providing less traffic for each switch to handle, you don't want to be running the switch at its max constantly. always good practice to build in a bit of redundancy and allow for expansion. depends on how you feel about losing everything if the switch fails - downtime till you get it repaired or fit a new one.

I have recently come across the IRE measurement for measuring video , iknow some meters have this as a function- anyone know if its any good- read that you can use it to achieve back focus- any one use this function - and is it any good ie worth having.

some info on the TDR. basically the signal travels at a certain speed down the cable, each cable will have a speed figure or co-efficient %speed of light or something, you punch this figure into the tdr for the cable type you are testing then attach the cable you want to test and press the button- a pulse is sent out and recorded - it will bounce off the end of the cable or be inverted if it comes across a short -the graph will show peaks at bad connections or where it meets resistance- then you use the cursor to move along the graph to get the distance for the anomaly. But you need to know the cable route so you can identify where the fault is- if it shows a fault at 160m you need to be able to walk the cable route to the approximate point.- Not very good if your cables disappear straight into a roof and can go in any direction and you don't know the route.

I use the 895 model shown at bottom of page- both the 895 (multimeter capability) and 896 have fibre connector for measuring levels on fibre - which I have to do. but you can select from the range what you need- it doesn't have the ping test as described by others who have replied but it does have the cat5 dongle which allows you to test that cat5 is wired correct ie pin 1 to 1, 2 to 2 etc and will tell you if they are mixed up ie pin 1 goes to 8 pin 2 goes to 6etc or if broken will show an "x". the 12v dc has saved my bacon a few times when no mains available and spare battery is flat. see :- ebay or if link is ended search for cctv test meter 10 in one or 11 in 1 or similar. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ST896-3-5-LCD-Monitor-CCTV-Camera-Video-PTZ-RS485-Tester-Optical-Power-Meter-/121169401344?tfrom=141201866631&tpos=top&ttype=price&talgo=undefined post back and let us know how you go and if its any good.

ok I may have picked you up wrong. Usually you can connect to the dvr with your laptop to adjust all the configuration etc and there is usually some part of there software that allows you to view the cameras on the laptop - so you can set up activity etc to set off alarmed recordings and stuff. so maybe you are after the red box shown here (googled vga to usb video grabber):- https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=vga+to+usb+video+grabber&newwindow=1&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=mMDbU8yyA6bB7AbX_IGwCQ&ved=0CAkQ_AUoAg&biw=1600&bih=754#facrc=_&imgdii=_&imgrc=QBlv2lHS3NOjwM%253A%3B32-Xg4UBXlySsM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fsewelldirect.com%252Fimages%252Fproducts%252FSW-7563%252F7563diagram.png%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fsewelldirect.com%252FVGA-to-USB-Video-Grabber.asp%3B600%3B283 sure you can find something from searching google and viewing image results.

I have used this set up on a laptop using a usb video capture unit google usb dvr .

should be ok- I have done this with Panasonic dome cameras which have similar connections.

the above diagram is ok but the text mixed up after posting house to left , gate to right top line at house shows switch, to right of switch is the relay coil then to far right is the relay contact. sorry for poor diagram. the auto text width has mucked up the text lining up with the diagram- I'm sure you will get it.

just google simple 12v relay or similar- you will get the idea. basically you just apply 12v dc across the relay coil- this will then make the switch contacts of the relay change position. you just use this contact to break or make the connection for the power to your camera. house gate relay contact switch relay +12v relay psu _________/ ______________________________relay coil + 12v cam psu + __/ ___ to cam +12v 0v relay psu ___________________________________________relay coil - 0v cam psu ______ to cam 0v view above in big windows explorer window it should look ok. instead of the switch in the house you could just unplug the psu to kill the power.

you could simply use the spare cable to switch a relay at the gate - that way you can pick up the supply locally at the gate and run the power through the relay contacs and use a simple 12v psu at the house to switch the relay coil via the spare cat 5 wires. this will save costs on bulky psu's don't have to worry about frying the cables then, sometimes old tech works.

have you tried to contact them:- http://www.cynicscctv.com/index.html and see email address on page.