slovey

Thanks for the suggestion, but that wasn't possible. The full solution I used is posted, but the gist of it is I used a 24v power supply with a 12v adapter at the camera. It works great and the camera is getting right at 12v, even with a 4v drop.

Solution: I used a 24vac 40VA power supply with a 24vac to 12vdc adapter at the camera. Notes: I found some ac/dc adapters/converters that had an input voltage range of 20-24v (common) and some that had an input range of 16-28v (harder to find). As long as you are getting at least 20v at the camera, it shouldn't matter which you use. If you are getting less than 20v, you may need the adapter with the lower input range. 40VA roughly translates into @1.6amps DC. You may be able to use a 20VA or 30VA power supply if you need less amperage for your cameras - there are online conversions from VAC to VDC that can help you decide which power supply you need.

The voltage drop calculator is not even close to matching my real world situation. For example, I have the following: 12v DC power supply (18 ch./1.6amp per channel) Camera draw @700-1000mA Cable run of 600ft 18 gauge cable (stranded) According to the SuperCircuits voltage calculator, I should have a drop in voltage of 5.38v (minimum draw - 700mA), which would leave only 6.62v, and shouldn't power this camera. But, it is working fine. And, the measured voltage under load is 8.9v. I understand that there are real world factors that can't be applied with a voltage calculator, and the power supply is actually putting out 12.7v rather than 12v, but a difference of 2.28v seems extreme. Am I missing something? Also, would it be possible to use a 24vac power supply with a 24vac to 12dc converter at the camera?

Thanks for the suggestion. I don't think I would be able to power the cameras where I live due to the number of consecutive overcast days we have and the inability to get direct sunlight - may require a very large battery. And, I already have the cable in place for traditional power. I do really like the idea of solar power though and I would have liked to set it up that way.

Thank you for the help. Where can I find a 5amp power supply with a variable adjustable voltage of 12-20v? Through searching I was able to find a power supply that had 12-13.8 volts, but I couldn't find anything that was 12-20v.

I have a multimeter, but I don't see how to use it if the contacts are not exposed while the cameras are connected. The real question is what is the solution. How do I get enough power to the cameras?? The REAL question is - do you want to understand your problem or do you just want somebody else to solve it for you? Given that the voltage drop is 4.12 volts (for the parameters you have given) then getting a power supply that provides 4.12 volts ABOVE the nominal 12V required by the camera will offset that voltage drop. So a 16Vdc power supply will solve your problem -for the specific camera in question The REAL answer is - I came here for help, NOT looking for a condescending jerk to give me attitude. I do NOT need to understand all or any of the math/physics/science behind the solutions for any answer I seek on the internet. And, if you believe that all the people looking for answers in forums want to be taught, or want to be shown how to solve the equations themselves, you are delusional. I do like to learn new things, but I want to be the one to decide what I want to learn, and in this case I am in a time crunch. I am here for an answer to my problem. Low voltage wiring is not my specialty, and I came here for answers...for solutions. However, I have understood from the very beginning that there was a voltage drop, and I provided all of the specs I had so it would help someone who knew what they were doing give me a solution to my problem. Just like if I can help someone on Quora with info I have, I will. I don't require them to learn why the solution works. I am sure I will have more issues with this install seeing how I am an under-qualified novice (tried paying a couple of installers originally, but I had such bad experiences I gave up looking and did it myself). However, I doubt I will look for answers here again since they can be dispensed so begrudgingly.

I have a multimeter, but I don't see how to use it if the contacts are not exposed while the cameras are connected. The real question is what is the solution. How do I get enough power to the cameras??

Is there any truth to this?? " The Voltmeter has a very low amp draw, and will show less voltage drop because of that. Once the camera is reintroduced in the circuit, the voltage drop will change, making the measurement ineffective."

Also, I don't have anything to test the voltage on the DC connector. Is there some cheap,reliable device that does just that?

I already know there is a voltage drop. How do I fix it? I don't have any power source any closer and I don't want to run thicker gauge cable for that distance. So, is there a way for me to boost the power within my current setup?

Specs: -rg6 siamese direct burial cable runs (18 gauge) of 215 meters (@700 ft) -HDCVI cameras that pull 5.5 watts or less (460 mA by my calculations) -12v DC 29amp 18 channel power supply Problem: -all cameras have power, but losing image at night when the IRs turn on Question: How can I boost the power? Some type of amp or power booster? Or, should I increase the amperage at the power supply?

Thanks for the help. I already tried swapping out the camera with one I know works and I replaced all the connectors (which didn't solve the problem), so it must be a short in the cable itself. The current cable is rg59 siamese direct burial (18/2 for power) and for there to be a short in the cable would mean that the cable came faulty from the manufacturer, which seems hard to believe, but possible. The cable run is 125 meters and I assume the only solution is to run another power cable just for that camera all the way back to the power supply (there isn't any power source closer).

I have an 18 channel power supply box installed and each channel has a camera wired to it. All channels have an led light in the box next to the terminals and that light is on on all but one channel. On the channel with the light out, I have no image on the monitor. If I disconnect the camera power cable from that terminal, or connect a different camera to that terminal, the light comes back on - it is only off when the power cable from that specific camera is connected to any terminal. Does the light out on a power supply box with a camera wired to it mean the the circuit is not being completed? Or, more broadly, what are the possible indications for the light to be off?

All of the installs are outdoors far away from any buildings or overhangs - the cameras are to be used to monitor the streets of the property. The cameras are very spread out and there will be a box at every camera location with either one, two or three cameras sharing the box. I know the importance of a drip loop and I have allowed plenty of extra cable for the loops. I have looked for the Gewiss-type boxes at local box stores (Home Depot and Lowes) and the local supply houses (Grainger, Graybar, etc) and online, and I haven't found anything for less than $40/box - most were WAY more than that. The Carlon boxes (E987R) are easily found for around $11 dollars locally, but that is a different style of box - it is screw down on all four corners instead of hinge open, it is a basic, empty box with no knockouts or pre-manufacturered contact bar mounting holes inside, and the seal seems to be more of a permanent, putty-type seal. I would prefer to use the Gewiss-style box, but it seems like I am going to have to go the Carlon (basic weatherproof junction box) route at this point.

Numb-nuts, Thanks. Those are exactly what I was looking for - boxes and glands. Unfortuately, I can't find Gewiss in the States. The prices were very reasonable. I found similar junction boxes, but they were usually way over-priced. If anyone can suggest a place to get good boxes like that for reasonable prices (in the US) I would appreciate it.