survtech

Approximately 1000 +/-.

Like these?

Rarely. Approximately 60-70% is passive-passive UTP plus 18/2 power. The balance is RG59 plus 18/2 power. The reasons for not using siamese are that power supplies are often in a somewhat different location from our UTP punchdown blocks where the 4-pair is punched down to 25-pair backbones and because I abhor couplers (barrels) - 3 potential single-points-of-failure for each barrel. We haven't experienced crosstalk from AC power; probably because we don't run UTP near unshielded power cables. Coax is just as, if not more, likely to pick up AC crosstalk.

I have been away from this forum for months and will likely remain that way (larry knows why). Notice I deleted my avatar, location and signature. That said, we place our fixed cameras over the player opposite the dealer. We just started replacing all of our older (and newer) Pelco CCC1300 and C10 series with a camera that we've found is able to show card values and suits and chip stack values 100% of the time if lensed, aimed / focused and set up properly. It is the inMotion 11S3N2D. Lens is chosen based on distance from the table - either 2.8-12mm or 5-50mm manual iris (auto-iris is not necessary for casino interior shots). Make certain you switch the camera from "Auto" to "Color" and turn AGC off. NEVER use AGC on table games or other critical shots!!! Adjust zoom so that the table width just fills the screen and touches the bottom of the screen and the dealer is at the top of the picture. You don't want the camera over the center of the table because it makes it impossible to see individual chips in a stack - just the top of the stack. The slight angle achieved by locating the camera over the player opposite the dealer allows you to see the edges of all chips in a stack. That location also allows you to see the dealer's hands; a must in casinos. Many casinos shoot the tables from behind the dealer. That, IMO, is a mistake. It is very important to see the dealer's hands. Misdeals, mis-pays and dealer/player collusion are among the most common problems. If you want to see the players, use a PTZ located on the opposite side of the pit or pit overview camera(s).

Check out a product named Coax-Seal. It is a strip of putty that you wrap around the connection and squeeze or roll between your hands to make a weathertight seal that is easily removed when needed. Not sure how well it stands up to extreme cold, though. http://www.coaxseal.com/ WRAP................MOLD

If the IR-LEDs operate all of the time, 13.4V setting at the supply and 3 pairs for power (+ 1 pair for video) will be fine. However, if the IR is switched on/off by a sensor, the camera's voltage will vary quite a bit. Assuming the total draw with IR on is 1,400mA and with IR off is 400mA: IR OFF (50m/400mA) = 1.6V loss (1 pair), 0.8V loss (2 pair), 0.4V loss (3 pair) IR ON (50m/1400mA) = 5.8V loss (1 pair), 2.9V loss (2 pair), 1.4V loss (3 pair) Even running 3 pairs, you will have a difference of 1 volt (8.3%) at the camera between IR ON and IR OFF. If you set the supply voltage at 13.4 volts with IR on (to get 12.0V at the camera), the camera will see at least 13 volts with IR off. On some cameras, that could cause: You might try setting the voltage with 3 pairs and switched IR so that it is about 0.5V volt less with LEDs on (12.9V at the supply). That would make the voltage at the camera vary between 11.5V and 12.5V. Well-tolerated by almost every camera.

Many Altronix 24VAC supplies put out 28-29 volts, depending on load. AC supplies are NOT regulated so they typically put out a nominal voltage. In 20+ years, I've never experienced a problem with AC-operated cameras that was shown to be related to those AC supply voltages. DC supplies are another thing altogether. I've seen a couple of DC cameras that were quite sensitive to even 10% overvoltage. Dallmeier cameras, for one, were rated at +/- 5% (a stupid idea).

It could be low voltage when the heater kicks on. What length of 18/2 did you run for power? I have seen Pelco Spectra PTZs do some strange things when the heaters come on but usually they just go blank. I had a client in Northern California who was using 18/2 to power a Spectra II located about 250 feet from the power supply. It worked fine during the day but shut off at night in the winter. Pelco's Wire Gauge Calculator says that for 60VA (Spectra II draw with heater "ON"), 12 gauge wire is required, whereas with the heater "OFF" (approx. 20VA), it might work with 18 gauge. Pelco Wire Gauge Calculator Wire voltage drop could be the issue. If the power supplied is marginal, the action of running the motors (pan/tilt) could draw just enough current to cause a reboot.

NTSC analog is usually specified as 450 lines maximum with color signals and 600 lines with monochrome (B/W). Analog NTSC color broadcast signals were typically 330 lines (due to filtering required to prevent adjacent channel interference) . Most color analog signal distribution and monitoring equipment is limited to between 450 and 500 lines. VCRs had various capabilities: 250 lines: Umatic, Betamax, VHS, Video8, CED 300 lines: Super Betamax, Betacam (professional) 330 lines: analog broadcast, BetacamSP 420 lines: LaserDisc, S-VHS, Hi8 500 lines: Enhanced Definition Betamax Cameras that advertise 600+ line capability are usually either overrated or rated in monochrome mode. And since analog switches, distribution amps, encoders and monitors are not capable of that resolution, it would be wasted anyway. Forget about using "standard" signal distribution, switching, recording or monitoring equipment for 960H.

Tell that to Broadcast and Cable TV (which are 720p or 1080i).

Computar CBZ-24 Lens Controller Rainbow LCA-4 Zoom Lens Controller

Radio Shack doesn't list 75-ohm BNC terminators, although they might be able to special order them. They only list 50-ohm BNC terminators. They do have the female-to-female barrels, though.

Pretty much any security or electronics hobby store. MCM Electronics, Parts Express, Fry's, etc.

Not true. Properly back-focused, the lenses will maintain focus while zooming in or out since they are true zoom lenses, not varifocals. That said, there is a knack to getting the back focus locked in. First, you need to have the iris fully open (an ND filter or welding glass helps). Then you zoom fully to telephoto (on a distant object), adjust lens focus, pull all the way back to wide and adjust back focus. Repeat as necessary until focus stays sharp across the entire zoom range.

Or a male terminator and a f-f barrel connector (easier to find).

Improper termination. You have to terminate the cable with a 75 ohm load or the video signal will reflect back up the line to the main TV. The 2nd monitor provides that termination, as would a termination resistor.

Actually, RG6 copper/copper (100% copper center conductor and 95% copper braided shield) will transport video farther than equivalent RG59. That said, Home Depot RG6 is not copper/copper. It has a "copper clad" steel center conductor and steel/aluminum shield. That is not suitable for cameras. RG59 copper/copper would do better than RG6 copper/steel/aluminum. And no, you cannot use RG59 connectors on RG6 or vice versa. The diameters of both the outside of the cable and the center conductors are too different.

Bunited2, I just finished watching the series again (for the umpteenth time) on BluRay. I re-watch it every year or so. I get a kick over how prescient they were in the series. Although they didn't get the CCTV exactly right, the ubiquitousness of cameras in The Village reminds me of where I work. Not bad for a show filmed in 1967, when CCTV was the stuff of Science Fiction and Secret Agent fantasies. I sometimes catch myself throwing the "Be Seeing You" salute to our cameras when I'm working on them.

Ahem! While I do retain the knowledge, I lack the tools and test equipment; having got rid of it years ago. However... Time Lapse Supply VCR Parts Also... Moore's Electronics repairs Time Lapse VCRs

Yes, but I owned my own business for over 14 years and did that more than a couple of times. My experience then was that it was impossible to please everyone. There are times when the aggravation just isn't worth the income...

Personally, I would just give them a price to do it right and then, if they are still insistent, walk away from the job. "The best way to convince a fool that he is wrong is to let him have his own way. ~ ~ ~ Josh Billings"

Most lenses can be turned the opposite direction after tightening to bring the adjustment knobs back to where you can reach them without loosening the lens.

CVBS means Composite Video Blanking and Sync. It is a type of video signal, mainly analog. BNC is a type of connector. In analog CCTV, CVBS video is usually delivered through a BNC connector, but it also can be delivered through an RCA (or phono) connector or other types (older cameras sometimes used a PL-259 connector).

Any chance it is heat related? You might try putting it in the test fixture again and (carefully) warming it up with a hair drier.

Conflicting opinions here. On the one hand, there have been many concerns about larger hard drives' potential reliability going all the way back to 130GB IDE versus MFM/RLL. I myself was concerned when they switched from linear recording to perpendicular recording. In addition, manufacturers have stumbled on occasion. WD had many problems with their early 300GB and 400GB drives, as well as with their early RAID Edition and (apparently) their "green" drives. Seagate had problems with their Barracuda 7200.11 firmware and occasional problems with other drives. On the other hand, there are no inherent problems with the 3TB factor that I can see. For RAID, it is always best to wait for controller manufacturers to certify any given drive but other than that, I don't see any major concerns.