survtech

For the Ganz??? Funny, I'm seeing prices that are substantially lower; well under the $500 limit stated by the OP.

Soundy, Check out the HomePlug ethernet-over-power line equipment. LinkSys, Belkin and NetGear make a number of models with capabilities from 85Mbps to 200Mbps. You really wouldn't need 3 sets, depending on where the cameras are, at most you would need 4 devices - 3 to send and one to receive.

Ganz ZCOH5-DN84NHA Outdoor 1/3" Super Hi-Res Color True D/N Dome, 540 TVL, 8.5-40mm Auto Iris varifocal (http://computarganz.com/product_view.cfm?product_id=192) You can get a Pelco DF5-PG-E0/E1 outdoor housing and stick a C10DN camera in it with a 5-50mm auto-iris lens.

Soundy: Shakespeare!

9 volt batteries will probably not last very long and it is not recommended to run two in parallel without isolating them via diodes; which will cut the voltage to approximately 8.3 volts to the camera. The typical 12VDC CCTV camera without IR requires approximately 3-4 watts; which is .25A to .33A at 12VDC. The typical 9V alkaline battery will last far less than 1 hour at that draw. Not only that but if you look at a graph of battery life vs. current draw you will see that the voltage will drop of pretty quickly. Since you are already starting with 25% less voltage than the camera requires, you will probably find that the voltage will drop to the point where the camera becomes unusable very quickly. Here is a link for a data sheet on Energizer 522 alkaline 9V batteries: http://data.energizer.com/PDFs/522.pdf I suggest using an 8-pack of 1.5 volt batteries; either AA or AAA. They will last far longer and you could use rechargeables.

+1 A balun should have a transformer in it.

I don't believe the second number signifies the time. You say that the first number went from 20:09:16.362 to 20:12:12.364 in three minutes. That is a correct time stamp. Perhaps the second number is image size or frame number or??? What does your manual say?

One of my main complaints with the HDcctv "extenders".

Blacklight Bug Zapper

Yes, like I said - two. Never mind!

Actually, the OP would need multiple Outreach devices, since each will only extend ethernet another 330 feet.

Didn't the OP say that he wasn't going to use IP cameras? And yes, unlike IP (except using fiber), analog can go that far.

According to some posts on LinkedIn by HDcctv Alliance staff and members, twisted-pair transport is something they are working on. There is no mention of a time frame for deployment of that option.

Pivot3 and Intransa are two turnkey solutions, although there are other options. DAS, SAN and NAS solutions are available from a number of vendors. It all depends on your requirements and your choice of DVR/NVR/VMS vendors. We chose DAS for our servers but would consider other solutions down the road as we migrate to IP and/or HDcctv. 30-50TB is do-able in a number of ways with a number of form factors. Some systems can handle that much storage in a single enclosure. Others would require multiple enclosures connected commonly to a network or controller. There are many variations.

Quite possible! We regularly interchange cameras and firmware. We originally purchased a number of the C22 domes and have been replacing the cameras with color/bw as they fail. There are a number of replacement cameras that can be interchanged within the dome drive. Most of the non- like-for-like replacements also require firmware changes, but that is (relatively) simple and inexpensive.

I think of HDcctv as potentially the modern-day equivalent of our existing analog cctv system. Through our matrix switch, we get full resolution, full frame rate live video. In our case, that also gets recorded at full frame rate, although with some compression artifacting and detail loss. Nevertheless, using camera placement with an eye toward the final playback result, we can see everything we really need to see. With HDcctv, we would be able to monitor the live video at a resolution that would be far superior to analog. We could also record at sufficient resolution to see what we need to see. Storage continues to become less of a factor as it continually gets cheaper per gigabyte. In fact, we could deploy at least three times the storage we have today for less than what we paid in 2006. Through judicious camera placement, we could also cut the camera count in many areas. That would also allow us to store the video at a higher quality or for a longer time or both. That is one major problem I have with IP. There is usually no resolution difference between the live and the recorded video and the amount of compression is chosen for recording and transport bitrate considerations. Yes, I know some cameras can feed two separate streams, but that won't help the network.

However, the impedance would be wrong. CAT3, CAT5, twisted-pair etc. are 100 ohms nominal. 18/2 would probably be different. The twists are quite necessary for noise rejection. Without them, one wire in a pair might pick up more interference signal than the other. Twisted pair relies on the noise getting cancelled out by subtracting the signal on one wire from the other. If the noise signals aren't equal, they won't be totally cancelled out.

Actually, HDcctv cameras, splitters and DVR cards are just starting to appear for sale. Check out http://www.theHDCCTV.com for examples.

For UTP runs of that length, you will need either active receivers or active transmitters. The other end can use passive baluns up to around 2,000 feet, then you would need active at both ends.

The DD53C22 is color only. It does not have a filter, nor does it have dual PAL/NTSC capability. The difference between the NTSC and PAL versions is that the PAL version would have a "-X" after the model number, ie: DD53C22-X. Pelco domes with true day/night capability would have a "CBW" in the model number instead of a "C", ie: DD5BCBW (Spectra II) DD53CBW18 (Spectra III) and DD4CBW35 (Spectra IV SE), except for the 27x Spectra IV SE (DD427). The first thing to try would be getting into the camera's menu. This is done by accessing the 95 function on Pelco controllers. For other control systems, YMMV. Try resetting the camera and/or rebooting the system in the main menu. If you can't get color at that point, you could try changing the values in "LOW LIGHT LIMIT". Otherwise, there is a problem with either the box camera inside or another electronic assembly. We repair our own PTZs in-house and obtain our parts from Time Lapse Supply. If you need parts or assistance, give them a call. http://www.timelapsesupply.com/

A few options, although none with built in IR. To compare apples to apples, you must also consider the size of the imager. A 2.0mm lens on a 1/3" camera will give you a 100 degree horizontal field of view. On a 1/4" imager, it will only give you an 85 degree horizontal field of view. The Ganz ZCOH5-D25NHA comes with a 2.3-5mm lens. That's about as wide as you can get with an integrated mini dome. (http://computarganz.com/product_view.cfm?product_id=193) Another option would be to buy a separate dome like a Pelco DF5 series, Sanyo VSE-6300 series, or Panasonic PID5 series; a suitable small box camera like the Pelco C10DN series, and wide angle lens. It can get a bit expensive but you can get lenses down to 1.6mm.

Any SPDT or DPDT relay with 120VAC coil and sufficient current capability should do. Relays - 120V AC Coil: http://www.poolandspa.com/catalog/product004454000376.cfm You'll want to connect one leg of the 12VDC through the NC (normally closed) and Common contacts so that when 120VAC is applied, the connection is "open" (not connected). You also might want to put the relay inside a suitable electrical box.

Do you have a primary system? If so you could back that up using Soundy's suggestion or a UPS. If you only want a system that turns on when the main power fails, a simple relay could handle that. The relay's coil would be connected to the main 120VAC power and the normally closed contacts would be used to provide power to the system.

With the advent of HDTV, more and more TVs are being produced without analog composite inputs. I was recently asked by someone how to hook up an older satellite TV receiver to a 26" TV. I was quite surprised when I discovered that the monitor only had component, DVI, VGA and HDMI inputs. The satellite receiver only had composite, S-Video and RF outputs. The only simple method to connect the two was the RF signal from the receiver's modulator.

The male connector is a Kobiconn 163-191J-E. I found it at Mouser Electronics. Here is a link to its data sheet: http://www.mouser.com/catalog/specsheets/KC-300930.pdf There are three females: 163-156N-1-E - Snap-In, Front Panel Mount 163-156N-2-E - Snap-In, Front Panel Mount for PC Board 163-158N-2-E - Snap-In, Rear Panel Mount for PC Board See the links on Mouser's web page below. Here is a link to Mouser's catalog page showing the connector and its mates: http://www.mouser.com/catalog/catalogUSD/641/1139.pdf.