SyconsciousAu

The Hikvision 2132F-IS has two way audio. If all you want is a camera which will let you know when someone is/has been there one camera front and back may do that but forget getting anything you can use as evidence. What is required for evidence? Im looking for help here, I have no experience with security cameras. The Australian Standard is 352 pixels per meter for identification, half that for recognition. Identification shots can be used to identify a person that is unknown to the viewer. Recognition shots can be used to identify persons already known to the viewer. Ideally you want to have low angle shots of an offenders face at identification resolution. It can be prohibitively expensive to cover your property at that resolution so you set up cameras which cover choke points at that resolution. Entry points like doors, gates etc, and passage ways like hallways, or narrow side passages, are choke points through through which people are likely to pass. You might want to put that resolution covering you letterbox to detect/deter mail theft, plus give you a good shot of people walking past. Lens calculators like this one can help you work out the lens sizes and resolutions you get.

I use blue iris 4 and I'm very happy with it. Has lots of features I want to play with in the future like geofencing and activating smart power points. Have you considered building your own? I have a 3rd gen I7 but I also have two 3tb drives in RAID 1 so I have 2TB of redundant storage. It saved my bacon after a lightning strike. Just make sure all 8 channels are POE some of those are only 4 channels POE Is this for a redundant storage in a separate place or are you planning to archive to NAS? Camera Location Consider a dome or turret. These are generally the camera's that will be lowest and most subject to interference. You can go to a 2.8mm lens here because generally people have to come up very close to the camera to go through the front door and you get plenty of pixels per metre for ID. How close is your side door to the boundary fence? If it is close using a 6mm lens will waste less of your field of view looking over the neighbours fence. Consider the 2332 here as well. Better IR than the 2032. Great camera though such a wide lens may not be worth your while. You can get a free trial of the CCTV Design tool to check your camera locations and angles. Wide is fine as long as you are willing to accept that you sacrifice ID quality shots for overview. Why do you need indoor cams, especially in a bathroom? Remember that these will be open to the internet and there will be the possibility they will be viewed by persons other than you. An alarm system can let you know if the perimeter has been breached and your outdoor cams will show you someone has gone in. Then call the Police. Video from outside of an offender climbing in a widow will convict them as much as one of them rummaging through your drawers. If you really want an indoor camera consider one in the hallway instead of bedrooms and bathrooms, and maybe cover the front/back/side doors internally. Use wired not wifi. Have them on a stand alone network that is separate to the internet. Get domes that record to Internal SD storage so the only way to view those cameras is to physically plug into a separate network. You won't see outside with an indoor cam at night and again why do you need them? Spend another $100 and put in a real one. Cover them from outside. A UPS. Have one running the server/poe switches. First suggestion. Always keep the wife happy. That usually means you don't use bullets internally. Make it neat and pretty. Second suggestion is to have a plan. Having cameras everywhere means you have cameras everywhere. It does not necessarily mean you have a system that will be any use at all. You seem to be running wide lenses everywhere. It is best to mix and match. Wide lenses for overview, narrow for identification. If you have choke points like gates or driveways that people have to pass through task the identification camera's there. Do the calculations. Work out the exact field of view and pixels per meter each camera will give you. Unless you do the sums and calculations early you can end up with an expensive disappointment.

Blue iris will let you view your cameras on any internet enabled device via the web interface but my Sony TV has an issue. It will only do Jpeg pull and wont run the active X video. It is a few years old now though. The associated phone app will let you view via the internet if your connection will handle it. Cheap but needs a reasonably powerful PC to run lots of megapixels. For a few cams an I3 will cut it though. I did 5 x 3mp on an I3 There are stand alone NVR solutions that allow something similar from Hikvision and Dahua but I have no experience with them. At the top end of the scale you have your milestone solutions that need licensing per camera. Again I have no experience with them. As for camera type that depends on your budget and what you want to achieve. Hikvision and Dahua make some very nice dome/eyeball/bullet units that can be had out of china for under $US100 each or you can go to the other end of the scale and get Bosch units that will set you back up to $3000 for camera, lens and enclosure. There is plenty of middle ground. Some people are quite happy with IP based systems from Costco or similar. What do you want to achieve? What is your budget.

Just so I understand your issue correctly, your ISP provides your internet connection via a 802.11 b/g/n link? Are you sure it is not a 3G/4G Mobile data link? Post up a photo of the modem you are using. I suspect you actually have the latter and you can get a Dynamic DNS service which will fix your issue.

Remember the car is moving almost perpendicular to the lens at 15mph. What that means is the plate numbers are moving almost 6.6m (27 feet) left to right every second which causes some serious motion blur. No if you are serious about doing plates you need to get your camera closer to the road so the plates are moving as close to straight at/away from the camera as possible. If that is not possible you need to reduce the amount the plate moves during the frame by increasing your shutter speed. First force your camera into black and white night mode in the menu settings (Configuration > Image > Day/Night Switch). Turn your gain up as far as it will go. (Configuration > Image > Exposure Settings)This will maximise the sensitivity to light. Now set your max shutter speed to 1/4000 (Configuration > Image > Exposure Settings). If this makes the image too dark lower it to 1/2000 then 1/1000. At 1/1000 the plate is now only moving 6.6mm (1/4") in each frame relative to the camera in each frame. If you have enough light to get away with the 1/4000 shutter speed your plate is now moving 1/16" in each frame. The more acute you make the angle between the camera and the road the less the plate will move perpendicular to the frame. My Camera is only 4m (15ft) from the gutter and my shutter speed is set to a max of 1/1000. I get clear captures day and night with a Sub $50 illuminator) I started out at 1/500 but still got motion blur. Cars in my street are doing 50 - 60km/h (30 - 40Mph) viewtopic.php?f=19&t=44641 Read that thread too. Those dedicated LPR systems are usually beyond the budget of a home user. You don't need special equipment for human read capture. Standard home equipment set up correctly is fine. It has been done quite successfully with a Hikvision 2032 at night.

The Hikvision 2132F-IS has two way audio. If all you want is a camera which will let you know when someone is/has been there one camera front and back may do that but forget getting anything you can use as evidence.

Welcome to the forum. It would probably help if you expanded a little on the layout of your house, what it is you want to achieve and what sort of budget you have. Just saying I need four camera's tells us that you think you need four cameras.

Just add a wireless access point into the existing network. You should be able to connect to either the camera IP or the NVR IP through that. Lets say my dahua NVR is connected to a router with wifi... the camera is located in another building 7 meters away. If I connect the camera to the access point with say ip address 192.168.1.5. Will the NVR see it as one of the camera in the search menu? Or should I connect the router with wifi to the camera and the access point to the NVR? What is usually the case. I have zero experience in access point and want to have rough idea before buying any access points. Thanks. What I think you want is a wireless bridge. You plug your camera into a second wireless router and bridge it into the network your NVR is on. Not all routers will work in this mode though so check around. Google how to set up a wireless bridge for instructions on the web.

Just add a wireless access point into the existing network. You should be able to connect to either the camera IP or the NVR IP through that.

Why would he need 60 frames per second? Even casinos only do 25/30

You are a crusty grumpy old soul Numb-nuts, though if I lived in Manchester I'd probably be grumpy and crusty too. From the look of those pictures Squall is quite handy on the tools. I don't think I suggested anything he couldn't DIY or that would be cost prohibitive. I thought of this, but assume that it would invite camera vandalism. It depends if they were visible or not from the path. I've got one camera in a position where it is vulnerable to being attacked but it has never been an issue. In addition to being in a protective enclosure it is also covered by another camera. Having camera's mounted in pairs so they can cover each other will deter random idiots from vandalising them. http://www.jaycar.com.au/Sight-%26-Sound---Home/TV-Accessories/Antenna-Hardware/Antenna-Bargeboard-Mount/p/LT3200 That is the type of antenna mount I was talking about earlier. Something like that would put your cameras 2.9m high and 1.5m (rough guesstimates based on your pictures) from the fence line. Still not impossible to vandalise but it will be fairly tough. With the cameras covering each other most will be deterred. Based on what you posted earlier your main risk seems to be short stay break and enter offenders who arrive on foot without much preparation, not the sort of offender who vandalises a camera hours or days in advance to create blind spots for the main event.

Those are not mutually exclusive, nor can the first exist without the latter. Anyone who wants to deter crime needs to give thought to why crime occurs, and what actually deters offenders. All crooks ask themselves the same questions. 1. Is there an opportunity to commit a crime? 2. Will I be detected if I commit that crime? 3. If I am detected can I evade capture? 4. If I am detected or captured can I evade consequence? 5. Is the reward of my crime worth the risk of detection, capture and consequence? 6. What countermeasures can I take to avoid detection capture and consequence? 7. Will those countermeasures reduce the risk of detection, capture and consequence to an acceptable level? If you want to effectively deter crime, and can't remove the opportunity to commit a crime, then you must create a situation where, in the mind of the offender, detection, capture and consequences are inevitable, and there is nothing they can do to change that fact, other than go somewhere else. If you are attempting to deter, without thinking about catching the crook, then you are not attempting to deter. This is a good point. One of the ways you can remove the opportunity for a crook to commit a crime is to remove things they can use as improvised tools to commit that crime. Squall you have correctly identified that issue near your side door. There is no visibility from anywhere there. I would consider removing that wall and replacing it with a barrier that you can see through like spear top fencing. As for camera placement I would put my camera at the rear of the house facing forward to the gate rather than over the door. I've estimated that space is about 3m x 6m long A 3MP with a 6mm lens on it would give you north of 400 pixels per meter at the gate and side door from the back of the house. 352ppm is the Australian Standard for identification resolution. That camera you have on the side of the house looking over the garage to the footpath doesn't appear to have much purpose. It will have a huge blind spot for anyone walking up that path. Have you considered putting a camera on the side of the carport looking over the fence? You could mount it on an fascia mount like are used for TV Antenna's. You could even put one at each end of your carport facing each other. Would cover your side fence and the footpath in both directions. In your back yard why haven't you got a camera covering your most likely point of entry? A 3mp Dome with a 2.8mm lens to the top right of that door would give you an ID shot for anyone going through the door and an overview over most of your back yard. The camera you have in your front yard facing down the driveway is good but I would think about moving it back and up a little so it is behind the fence to the right hand side of the side door. Gives it a bit more protection and will bring it into the view of the camera at the back of the house. Id also reconsider having the camera's up on the second floor. Gives you a great view of the top of people's heads, and not much else. If you brought the camera over the door down and put in a 3MP dome with a 4mm or maybe even 6mm lens on it you would get an ID shot of anyone on your front door step and they would be walking toward the camera from the driveway. That one is a little lonely out there and wont capture people coming from your neighbour's front yard so I would consider another camera facing it.

Could you post that list? I don't currently have for fully covert illumination, but some people may and a list of compatible cameras would be a really useful resource.

Not sure if it fits all your requirements but the 6MP Hikvision DS-2CD4065F-(A) looks like a very good unit on paper. http://www.hkvstar.com/product-news/hikvision-ds-2cd4065f-a-6-mp-ip-camera-review.html

Is it possible to re-route the cable so it avoids the fluorescent light fitting? If not try some of the solutions here http://www.lrc.rpi.edu/programs/NLPIP/lightinganswers/pdf/view/LAEMI.pdf

Sounds like an awesome project for the weekend.

Here's a tip. Leave her. If you don't feel safe it is time to go.

It might work but why? Unless you already have the cam why don't you install a 3Mp dome with a 64GB Micro SD Card in it on the eve outside the window?

I think you might find that the system you have linked to is a Hikvision re-branded as a Swann so it might not be so bad. As for number plate capture you may want to read the thread I started over here. In short most megapixel cameras will capture a plate by day, assuming the plate occupies enough of the scene to give you at least 200 pixels per metre. North of 300ppm is better though. By night is when things get interesting. You need to keep shutter speed up, to overcome headlights, and so you don't get motion blur, but that means you need more illumination. If you are only covering a driveway that makes things a little easier because you already know the exact area the plate is going to pass through and your speeds should be fairly low. These are my results.

http://www.mmnt.net/db/0/0/ftp.wintel.fi/drivers/dahua/cam-fw/IPC-HX3%282%29XXX/Ver2.212

Please see attached picture of the dahua nvr alarm output setting. When I save it as AUTO. it can go to STOP an hour later. And when happens. No Alarm output is being sent out even when the Alarm Output box is selected (and the output #1 or #2 checked) and the Tampering is triggered (I know because the buzzer sounded off).. but because the Alarm Output (again see file attached picture) goes STOP, the relay doesn't trigger. Why does it goes to STOP after saving/setting it to AUTO. Any idea? Tnx Sounds like a bug. Have you upgraded to the latest firmware?

Don't buy it from there. Anyone who takes five weeks to get stock in and then only warrants it for week is not worth doing business with. The maximum bandwidth on that model is only 160Mbs. If you use all 64 camera's you will only be able to have a maximum of 2.5Mbps coming from each camera. That means more compression and more compression means lower playback quality. That might not be an issue for you but that Dahua one I linked earlier does 384Mbps incoming bandwidth In my humble opinion RAID is essential for any CCTV application where loss of the footage will cause issues and that means all commercial applications. Many people recommend a redundancy level of not less than Raid 6 and your linked NVR wont do that. Raid 5 will give you some redundancy. The other thing you need to consider is how much storage you want. The Australian and New Zealand Police recommendat least 31 days of storage. How much hard drive space you will need to achieve that depends on camera resolution, bit rate, frame rate, and hours that each camera will record. Correct That doesn't appear to be a POE switch. With POE switches the two big things you need to be concerned about is power per port and total power budget. Make sure that you have a total power budget of more than the max draw of all the camera's you are using. http://www.ebuyer.com/290314-trendnet-24-port-10-100mbps-web-smart-poe-switch-with-4-gigabit-ports-and-tpe-224ws That's an example of a POE switch. they cost significantly more than your standard un-powered switch. When thinking about camera's you need to think about what you want each camera to do in the setup. For example you should have a camera and lens combination that will give you at least 352 pixels per metre across your entrances to the store for ID quality shots. Same for registers, cash rooms, and items in the store that are at greatest risk of theft. All POE switches I have seen will do at least 50 metres. Many will do 100m. More than enough for a retail application I don't really know what your needs are beyond the stated number of cameras. What you should definitely include in your budget is a rack mounted UPS with sufficient capacity to run everything for a while if the power supply is cut or goes out. They will also protect your significant investment from surges. You can save some money here by buying second hand units and replacing the batteries. You will also need a rack to secure it all in. Make sure it has a lockable door and is bolted down. No good having 64 cameras if the crooks steal the NVR. You can also get significantly more bang for your buck buying NVR/cameras direct from China. Going PC based is not always going to be a cheaper option but you can go multi processor servers, have no real limit on the amount of storage, pick software of your choice, including software that supports things like ANPR if you require that. No worries.

You wont find a 64 camera kit. For that sort of setup you will need to source the NVR, POE routers, Camera's and cables separately. Both Hikvision and Dahua make 64 channel NVR's. Alternatively you can go PC based.

It wont be a "swann" hard drive. It will be a hard drive from a major manufacturer. You may need to format if they use different file systems but otherwise you will be sweet.

They are talking about a security company monitoring centre. Ok. Say. When you want to connect a siren to the alarm output of the dahua NVR. Do you connect the circuit directly to the alarm output (shorting and closing the circuit when alarm output triggered). How much ampere can it take? Or do you have to create a separate relay for the alarm output.. how? Thanks. Do you have an existing alarm panel? If so just wire the DVR alarm output into the existing panel as a sensor. If not then you will probably need a relay unless the alarm output can handle the current draw. How much your particular system will handle should be in the manual.