SyconsciousAu

G'day Gods of CCTV. Originally I had the Hikvision DS-2CD4065F-(A) in mind as the camera of choice. US$620 seems to be about the best price for them. Then I came across the Dahua IPC-HF81200E. It can be had for US$438 from www.cctv-mall.com. On paper they appear to have similar low light performance Dahua Image Sensor 1/2.3” 12Megapixel CMOS Min. Illumination Color: 0.01Lux/F1.2, B/W: 0.001Lux/F1.2 Resolution 12M(4000×3000)/8M(3840×2160)/1080P(1920×1080) ... Frame Rate Main Stream 12M(1~15fps)/8M/1080P (1~25/30fps) Sub Stream D1/CIF(1 ~ 50/60fps) Third Stream 1080P/720P/D1(1 ~ 50/60fps) Hikvision Image Sensor: | 1/1.8" Progressive Scan CMOS Min. Illumination: | Color: 0.01 Lux @ (F1.2, AGC ON), B/W: 0.001 Lux @ (F1.2, AGC ON) Max. Image Resolution: | 3072 x 2048 Frame Rate: | 50Hz: 24fps (3072 × 2048), 25fps (3072 × 1728, 2560 × 2048, 2560 × 1920, 2048 × 1536, ... Now on paper I'd be mad not to buy the Dahua as it represents significantly better value for money. I have some reservations though. I suspect Dahua may be playing rubbery figures with their minimum illumination. I can't get my head around how a 1/2.3" sensor at 12MP will have the same low light performance as a 1/1.8" sensor at 6MP unless there has been some shenanigans with the gain settings or similar. The price also seems suspiciously low on the Dahua. I've never bought from that site and I can't see any reviews for it, so I'm wary of a scam. Any thoughts on either camera or that site? All constructive input would be greatly appreciated.

Why would you want to install photo frame cameras inside your home? Actually given that you need a week of storage you probably plan to put them in someone else's home which is very very illegal.

Not at all. Its the reason why the 90 degree rotation is there. Sometimes it is called corridor or hallway mode.

Have you considered using the web viewer through the internet browser on the TV? Can you explain this a little bit more Synconscious? I have Hikvision IVMS program and run my Dyns through No-ip.com, what website should I go to to view my cameras? I am using blue iris so I just log into IP of the NVR on the local network on the TV's integrated web browser. IVMS has the same functionality. Chapter 10 in the manual covers off on how it works

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Up-to-50M-150FT-USB-UTP-Extender-Extension-Over-RJ45-Ethernet-CAT5e-CAT6-Cable-/311349165131?hash=item487ddb3c4b Get a USB over Cat 5 extender. Should fix your issue.

The 3332 is the chinese market only version. It bricks if you try to upgrade the firmware with western region firmware. Go there and you may find a solution for recovering your bricked camera.

How is your house constructed? Cavity Brick, Double Brick, Brick veneer, ICF, Benex, Hebel Power Panel, Straw bale, Stick and Weatherboard? Slab on grade or do you have access to underneath the house? Do you have a basement? Insulation in the walls and between the floors? Does the DVR/NVR have to be in it's current location? Is this an analogue or IP setup? How handy are you? Have you ever pulled cable before? Can you patch and paint an internal gyprock wall? Would you prefer the cables be hidden? It is all very well asking for advice from the forum but saying "I have a house and it's two storey" does not tell us much.

Drugs are bad mmmkay

Range to Vehicle? Vehicle Speed? Number of lanes? Offset angle? Available lighting? Capturing vehicles in both directions? Does your budget include an illuminator? Human read or ANPR?

The only downside I have seen in relation to the the new 4MP series is the lack of a factory fitted 12mm lens option. True...if you really need it you can swap it yourself..there are models with the 12mm and 16mm options like this http://overseas.hikvision.com//uploadfile/image/20150705062249090.PDF I was just looking at that one on the website, and whilst the specs and price are excellent, I like, and more to the point the minister for finance likes, the aesthetics of the 2342 turret. I thought about the option of getting a 12mm M12 lens and doing the swap myself but I wonder if the reason there isn't a 12mm lens available is the lack of room in the turret with the new sensor.

I had no issues with an I3 running 5 3mp cams and Blue Iris but at 7 3mp cams it got a little stressed during playback operations. Blue Iris is CPU intensive. I've read that Hikvision's free IVMS-4200 program is very resource friendly but it must be used with their cams.

The only downside I have seen in relation to the the new 4MP series is the lack of a factory fitted 12mm lens option.

You are welcome Some people like cameras with an on board SD card for redundancy. If the NVR gets taken or fails, the SD card will still have video on it. That NVR has the capability to take 3mp video, enough POE power (50W) to power four of those cameras without issue, and enough incoming bandwidth (40Mbs) for high quality video. You are welcome again.

If you don't have any particular need for wireless, use a wired connection. The speed of your internet connection does not affect the performance of your cameras on the local network. The 2032 is widely recommended, possibly one of the most popular cameras out there, and excellent value for money. That is the newer version with SD card and wifi. You can still buy the 2032-I a little more cheaply. The linked NVR will record in 1080P only and wont use the full 3mp of the 2032. It has a max incoming bandwidth of 50Mbps which is enough for 8 streams of 1080P at decent quality. The linked NVR has a maximum POE power rating of only 40W. The camera you want to use pulls down 5W normally and 7W whilst the IR cut out is switching. Running 8 cameras could cause power issues. I wouldn't run more than six cameras but I like a good margin of safety. You may get away with 7 if no more than two try to switch at once.

Not to mention illegal to use in a lot of places.

Performed to its specifications at least.

Your Anti Dither may be the problem. Turn it down to 2 Read this thread viewtopic.php?t=16306

The biggest issue I see with what you are trying to achieve is the angles at such a small distance from the target. Even if you use a 180 degree fisheye lens you will be looking down the sides of the truck at the edges of the image, and that may prevent you getting a clear view of the wheels, the spherical aberration will also make it difficult to gauge how long the truck is. A camera placed at another point in the toll plaza that captures the side of the truck from further away may achieve what you are after. I also wonder why you need to do this with CCTV. There are plenty of automatic systems that will count axles and determine vehicle length for toll systems.

What purpose does that achieve for you? I'm struggling to see why you would need a complete view of the side of the truck yet have no resolution requirements. For toll gate applications people are generally more concerned with the identity of the driver and the number plate fitted to the vehicle.

Lock your patio door. Costs you nothing. If someone can open it to let your cat out then they can open it to come in and steal your property. Your hundred dollar budget does not give you a lot of options. As Boogieman pointed out something like Hikvision 2CD2132F-IS or Dahua IPC-HDBW4300E with a micro SD card for local recording will give you a capability within your budget. Ignore Sunnykim. He pedals obsolescent technology.

What is the "object"? Do you want to monitor the object itself or the space next to it? What are your resolution requirements? Do you need identification quality footage or just detection quality? I'm assuming the "object" is next to a wall or similar, any reason you cant use camera's at each end of the long axis of the "object"? Is there any existing lighting? Is there an existing CCTV system the camera has to integrate with?

What you are looking at is very similar to one of the City Safe Projects. As you can see from the linked article they went fibre for their project and use 1080P IP cameras and not Analogue. If you have a city nearby where they have done a project like this, then see if the project manager will let you buy him/her lunch and ask lots of questions. Have you spoken with your local Police? Will they be given remote access to assist in their response to a crime/emergency? Are there existing local systems which your system may be asked to integrate with? In relation to Power why cant you piggy back in on the existing power infrastructure of the estate? I assume you have street lights. As someone already pointed out the circuit length you are proposing is way too long for 220V Someone already pointed out that you could use wireless IP and assuming you could piggy back in locally to power that would save you a whole lot of cabling. Have you considered a fibre to the node solution, where you run fibre to nodes near a group of cameras and Cat6/wireless from there?

Everything is feasible, with the right budget That's about 52 degrees north lattitude. That's a tough ask for solar. Have a look at http://www.pveducation.org/ and http://www.builditsolar.com For some useful info and links on solar. You have a tough site but you should be able to get more than that out of each panel in winter. Assuming that they are unshaded and pointed due south and orientated correctly. You will want to think about a solar panel mount with moveable azimuth. At that latitude the sun only makes it up to 15 degrees or so during the day so your panels won't be far off vertical in winter. On the plus side any snow will fall right off. In summer they will need to be a lot flatter The other option is nickel iron batteries. .26A is 3.12 watts per hour per camera, not per day. The number one mistake people make is underestimating their current draw. I think 3 to 4 amps (36 to 48 Watts) is a realistic figure for the setup you are contemplating. That's 72 - 96 Amp Hours per day. The next question you need to ask is how many sunny days you get because your solar generation is next to zero on cloudy days. Shading a panel massively reduces their output. Say for example you are expecting two cloudy days between each sunny day you need to factor that in, both in your battery and generation capacity. So in that three days you are going to use 388 amp hours. If you are using lead acid and want to limit your depth of discharge to 20% you will need 1940 Amp Hours of battery capacity. That also means that if you get a bad week you can have a week without sun and still be at less than 50% depth of discharge You can then size your solar array. If you want to recharge all of that consumed power in a single sunny day then you are going to need 4656 watts on that sunny day. If you get two hours worth of generation from your panels at the site you will need a 2.5kw array. The more sunny days you get between cloudy ones the smaller your array can be but remember you need some reserve capacity in your array to get the battery back up after a bad couple of days. Either way the array you are looking at is going to be significantly bigger than the 200 watt panel you were considering, as will your battery pack. What you may want to consider is doing a wind survey at your site. A wind generator may be a more viable option than a large solar array. A small solar array combined with a wind generator may also work for you if you have windy winters and still summers.

You wont find an off the shelf system that will do that. Where is this system being installed that you cant get enough solar to power it? You can get cameras with on board storage that draw less than 6 watts. Even with routers and switches your draw should be under 75 watts at worst. Also have you costed your data?

Ill second the WD Red as a good choice. I have a pair going strong in my box. You will kill an SSD using it in a NVR. They are not designed to be constantly written to.