scorpion

It is not an RJ 45, and it is not a DB-9! _____________________________________________________________ Registered Jack! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RJ-45 RJ 45: When you meant to say TIA/EIA-568-A or, TIA/EIA-568-B http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TIA/EIA-568-B RJ 11, RJ 14, RJ 25: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/RJ11 8P8C: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/8P8C Cross Over Cable: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ethernet_crossover_cable _____________________________________________________________ DB-9 WHEN YOU MEANT DE-9 INFO: D Connector: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DE-9_connector#DE-9_connector DIAGRAMS AND APPLICATIONS: http://pinouts.ru/connector/9_pin_D-SUB_female_connector.shtml DB = 25 Do you snap off 16 pins to make a "DB-9"?? _____________________________________________________________ Interesting read on this thread from this forum: http://www.sundance-communications.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=print_topic;f=24;t=000065 What do you think?

If it is under warranty they should fix it. You should take it back from where you bought it with the receipt. I have never used this DLink camera so it may be better for others to answer this question. The DLink is digital, and you are viewing it over the internet. The cameras are analog, and they connect to the DVR using line level video. I cannot figure out what kind of DVR you have, and it would not surprise me if it was an AVTech DVR. Inexpensive DVRs will have this quality problem. Let me paint a picture for you. The Dlink is like looking at Niagra Falls. It is beautiful to look at. The Dlink is not recording, and I can only assume that you are not recording. The DVR is storing video for you to have the ablility to look back to see what was going on. With the DVR lets take that beautiful Niagra Falls, and lets divert it, and let it stream in to your DVR!! Yikes! That is a lot of water!! How do you store so much water??? This is the same with video. What they do is they compress the video to save storage space on hard drives. There are many DVR manufactures, and there are bad algorithms, and there are good algorithms. Cheap verses expensive, and somewhere inbetween. All of the above. You may have wide angle cameras. This will be the first obstacle to facial recognition. You need to have the video look like the 6 O clock news. From the shoulders up! The compression ratio is the next key to facial recognition. Better cameras, better DVRs, and better design, and installation is the key. Go to this website http://scorpiontheater.com/cpcamtechsupport.aspx Scroll about 3/4 of the way down till you see Video Server E with a blue box. Does this look like yours?? If yes then it is an AVTech DVR, if no then we will have to figure it out from there. You can try a DVR similiar to this: http://icrealtime.com/solutions/dvrfx.asp Video is Excellant, and over the internet the Video is incredible!! Baud rate is refering to something else. This is the communications protocal for Pan Tilt, and Zoom Cameras (PTZ) I assume. _____________________________________________________________ How about Networkable Video Recorder, and using nothing but IP camera? This would give you the quality that you are demanding! You sound like you are a computer expert, and you know what you are doing! Read this: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Video_compression

Lucky for me I have a good wife! As soon as I found out that she is a football fanatic I had to marry her! Eleana Bobbit ruined it for everybody! Amazing how that indirect threat can make a man stop in mid stride before he gets in to trouble!!

I would take your parts, and I would put it on a bench. I would have the DVR trigger the alarm output, and I would experiment with the relay board until I got it right. You can use a 4 wire conductor if this is what you have. You can Google schematics trying various wording till you see a help you out website that provides the information that enlightens you.

The 12 volt box is a representation of a power supply. The red device represents the strobe. The other box represents the DVR. I do believe that the NC and the NO are incorrect on the pdf. Here is what you need. You need a multi meter, and you need to hook it up to the alarm output of your DVR. If this is motion triggered then you will need to have someone wave their arms in front of the camera while you make this test. You need to put the multi meter in to a tone mode. When you touch both probes together you should get a beep. If your meter does not have the tone then you can set it in the RX10 mode. When you touch both probes together then the meter should swing to zero. You will use the thumbwheel to calibrate it dead on zero. Now put the probe on the DVR, and when the DVR detects motion, and it triggers the alarm your meter should be doing this: When you hooked it up to the DVR the meter should have been in the high number area or infinite as we call it. When the DVR detected motion and triggered the alarm mode it will close a switch and your meter should swing to zero. This is an on, and an off switch. If you know how to wire up a circuit then this should be the easy part. Just like page 4 is showing you. You should have a loop from the power to the DVR to the strobe and back to the power. The DVR does not power the strobe in any way. It is only a switch just like the one on the wall that powers the lamp that is plugged in to the socket. The power comes from your circuit breaker box (power supply), and the switch on the wall (DVR) triggers the lamp (strobe light).

If sacrificing speed qualifys the price, then yes it is a value.

Home page: http://portforward.com/ Read this: http://www.portforward.com/help/pfprogression.htm Guides: http://portforward.com/guides.htm

Hey wait a minute! That is what you posted over there about us!! LOL!

dot dot dot dash dash dash dot dot dot Earth to Kelvin! Earth to Kelvin! Come in Kelvin! CQ DX CQ bzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz Hey Coca Cola! Anything on your radar screen?

Woof! Woof! Now if I could just talk my wife into wearing the collar, and to be lead by a leash! Stand back guys! She's a scrapper!

Go to page 4. See if you can hook your DVR up light this! http://www.specotech.com/TechNotes/DIGITAL_DETERRENT.pdf You can also hook it up with a relay board for high powered devices. See page 7 What do you think?

My application looks like it is straight through. Overglorified telephone cord if you know what I mean. One plug up, and one plug down so that they share the same color sequence. On another note to othere forum readers: The $14.00 tool that that sent me is just a regular "phone/data" crimper. For the price I say it rocks!! To think I paid $45.00 for the IDEAL company crimper at House Depo. If you are looking for a crimper, and you want to save a lot of money then get this tool!

Do you have a multi meter, and can you take a reading under load of the 12 volts at the camera?

From the way I read the post I get that the camera took the 20 volt hit before you switched to a regulated power supply. Other than that you have gremlins!

.001 48 1200 KS-10844 1 Roll $300.00 Mirrored Gold Tint http://k-mac-plastics.com/mylar-sheet.htm

This could also be used for a doorbell video. Switch off the TV video, and see who is at the front door!

How did you test the camera at the house? Did you take it down, and carry it to the house then hook it up? If you did this, and it did not work, then the power supply might be bad. Do you know how to use a multimeter? What kind of wire guage, and copper rating are you using?

What kind of wiring are you using? What kind of power supply, or power supplys are you using? The reason I ask is this: Wiring: I am going to assume that you have premade wiring. This is the kind of wiring that does not require any assembly, or know as Plug, and View wiring. Do they have a BNC to RCA adapter? You may have some bad ones that need to be replaced. Power supply: Do you have a box, or do you have wall wart transformers? You may have dirty contacts on the plugs at the power supply, or at the camera end. If you are going more than 100 feet, then the wall wart transformers may not be pushing enough juice. What are the transformers rated at? 250 mA? 500 mA?

Hard for me to say what the problem could be. If you can hook up a small TV that has a composite input (which is the yellow connector on the back, or on the front of the TV), to the camera directly, then this would be great! If you have good video at the camera, then this tells us that you are getting power to the camera, and the camera is putting out a good video signal! This means the power side of your cable is OK! This means the problem is with the wire on the video side of your cable. If you do not have a good video then the power side of your cable is bad, or your camera may be bad. There may be a situation that the wire is ok, but the connectors on the end are giving you the problem. What do you think?

Here is another way of getting a signal on to a wire without worrying about crashing the digital signal. http://www.channelvision.com/index/15/25 http://www.channelvision.com/pdf/flyers/affinitycut.pdf

We would need to know what kind of DVR you have to give you further information. There are some DVRs where you can create a circuit. You have a 12 volt power supply (fused), from there you go to a 12 volt strobe light, and from there you go to the DVR, from the DVR you go back to the power supply. I am assuming that you are using motion detection?? When motion detection activates the recording it will trigger the alarm output. You will now see the strobe light flashing to let you know that someone is in that area. You may need an external relay to control 120 volts devices, (or whatever voltage you use). Having multiple strobe lights makes it very easy to watch multiple doors. Imagine being a guard to a building that has a front main entrance, a rear entrance, and a garage entrance! You can color code the strobes to mark what door they go to. Instead of strobes you can use lights, and place them on a floor plan. You can see imeaditly what door is open, and you can look at the monitor to verify the person. This can be used for regular doors, or you can use this with electronic access doors. You can look to make sure someone has not stolen an access card, and is entering the building! _____________________________________________________________ Instead of hooking up the above circuit, you can do this. Power supply (fused), to a door with an alarm contact, and magnet, then to a strobe light, (or sounding device), and back to the power supply. When someone opens the door the strobe goes off. This is what we install in night club, and bars. If you want to know if someone is going in, or out a door, then locate the strobe where it can be seen by several bouncer positions. When the strobe goes off, then the bouncer can react to the situation. This is great for back doors, or doors that go to another part of a building that is not part of the night club such as the club office, or multi tenant building.

No, I do not suffer from IBS. This is what you do for a quick set up in a van, or truck. With a cellular airtime card you are good to go on the internet. Place your printer on the center of the bench seat, or set it on the floor! Now you can print out quotes on the spot!

Hey sinbad! Here is what you do! Get a laptop cooler, and a camera tripod. Connect the laptop cooler (upside down) to the tripod camera mount. Stand the tripod next to your toilet, and adjust the tripod to the right heiigth. Place your laptop on the cooler, and you are ready to go!! LOL! "Ready to go"! LOL!

LOL!! Hopefully it is a buffet, and he can pick, and choose what he needs. If he plans on devouring the whole spread, then yes you are right!!

or smoke wafting out the seams?