scorpion

http://www.cctvforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=9247 (Hey Rory! How is that for quick, and simple)?? LOL!!

Thanks Rory! I appreciate your hard work!!

It is the same as Sec Cam Direct's DVR4007. The Comet 4C manual is identical in operation as the 4007. It reminds me of the old AVC 774 Mercury.

That one has been added very recently. I did not even catch that one.

Strip off the braid, and the dialetric, and take the center conductor and bend a short piece into a swirl several times and use the end piece to hook it in to your ear lob!

What kind of DVR do you have? Do you have the CPCam CPD 507? You can download it from my website, or you can download it from AVtech's website at http://211.22.74.18/

This is going to become more work than you would really like. First you will need to buy a device called a modulator. You can set the modulator to an empty TV channel. You will need a bnc to RCA adapter. Put the adapter on the video out of the DVR (monitor). Using TV cables that have the red, white, and yellow connectors you will hook this up to your DVR, and to your modulator. The modulator has a "cable" output. Hook up your coax to your modulator, and to your main input to your house cable system. HERE IS WHERE IT GETS FUN! It is not going to work! Why you ask? You will need to balance the two "systems". The output of the modulator has to be at the same "level" as the cable system. One trick is to take a screw driver and "tune" the modulator with the adjustment screw. You tune it up, and down until the cable picture is not snowy, or the DVR picture is not snowy. Another trick is to put an amplifier (not a cheap one!) that is adjustable on the head end of your cable system. Now you can balance the modulator, and the amplifier to get a better picture. DO YOU HAVE DIGITAL CABLE BOXES, OR HIGH DEFINITION? Oh boy! Now you have more problems! To be honest you are better off taking the output of you DVR, and hooking it up to an video amplifier with multiple outputs like you see at the sports bars on their TVs, and running a dedicated cable to the TVs in your house where you want to see the picture. Yes that means getting in to your attic, or your basement, and drilling some holes, and running some cable! BETTER YET! Put the DVR on to your internet, and just look at the video from any computer, or wireless laptop in your house! What do you think??

Hello! ▲▼◄►: Navigate between targets. d) LS : The sensitivity of comparing two different images. The smaller the value is, the higher sensitivity for motion detection. The highest sensitivity setting is 00 and the lowest sensitivity setting is 15. The default value is 07. e) SS : The sensitivity regarding the size of the triggered object on the screen (the number of motion detection grids). The smaller the value, the higher sensitivity for motion detection. The highest sensitivity setting is 00 and the lowest sensitivity setting is 15. The default setting is 03. Note: The default setting of Spatial Sensitivity is 03, which means once a object is detected more than 3 grids, the system will get triggered. So the value of Spatial Sensitivity must be less than the number of grids that you set up for the motion detection area. f) TS : The sensitivity regarding how long the object gets triggered. The smaller the value, the higher motion detection sensitivity will be. The highest sensitivity setting is 00 and the lowest sensitivity setting is 15. The default setting is 02. g) RE : The value of RE is a reference for detection. The default value is 10, which means DVR will compare 10 continuous images at one time according to the sensitivity of LS, SS, TS simultaneously. The bigger the value, the higher sensitivity for motion detection. The highest sensitivity is 61. h) ALARM: Select LOW / HIGH for the alarm polarity. The default alarm value is OFF. For others reading this post you can go to my website, and download the manual if you need more info.

Slammers are the ones that get caught, and they have to high tail it before they get grabbed, and beat up.

I like licenses to a degree. I like that it keeps the individual out who does not care to do quality work, and getting a license is too much work. I like that it helps keep some of the career thieves away as you can only do that as a matter of opportunity. Having a license makes you "trackable". Thieves like to work in the shadows, and be unknown. How many times have you seen in the news about the unlicensed "contractor" who asks for 50% down on a project, and then the home owner never hears from them again! Anybody can swing a hammer, and call themselves a carpenter, but not everybody can just "become" professional general contractor. After the hurricanes a couple a years back I became a "trunk thumper". I found out the hard way that insurance companies do not like to pay out, and they love lawyers so that they can delay the court proceeding until you die of old age, or give up, or run out of money. Did I say trunk thumper out loud? Ooops.

With the price range you are speaking of I would say you are cutting yourself short pricewise. This is doable, but then you will have to do your own installation, and you will have to provide your own tech support. You may want to contract with a CCTV company, and have them provide their entry level equipment, installation, and tech support. The product that you listed should do you OK as long as you understand the limitations of your product verses the limitations of your site design. I believe more "do it yourselfers" crash and burn on camera/lens selection more so than DVR selection.

I really respect that you asked for some opinions before you started your project. It sounds more like you are a Master Tech, and are in charge of training new recruits, and you are the type to get "all of your ducks in a row". The guys at Groupware International Broadband (G I Broadband) will probably still you away from the company that you work for now!! I am really glad you had some input before you ended up with a mess on your hands. Now if only you could use your RF meter to check out cameras!!

There is a camera that I buy that has wide, and long throw IR. The problems with this is that some of the IR LEDs are large, and also to get wide, and long throw LEDs you need a lot of them which makes the face of the "camera" a very large "surface" area. This is the the problem with bullet cameras. Cheap ones cannot be very big to keep cost down, and the cost prevents both kinds to be installed. Cheap wide angle bullets, are easy as they only need the wide dispersion LEDS. Cameras that brag about long throw IR suffer from picture quality as they do not have wide angle LEDs. Yes there other items that can make a good, bad, or a great camera, and I am not a camera expert, and these are only my opinions from what I have seen in the field. Security Cameras Direct CFC6300VF is one that I use quite a bit. It is a pain as you have to disassemble it to set the camera, and reassemble it to mount it.

because among us on the forum we have a million years of experience combined!

and don't rub the sandpaper in the middle of the lens! LOL! Great Idea CollinR!!! I wonder if you could do the same with vaseline around the edges. This would be good for a short time use, but would collect alot of bugs in the long term!!

I would use window tint to "filter" down the IR, and you can leave a hole open for the camera to view through. Can you move the camera back away, and zoom in more?

Possible to strap an IR illuminator to the overheads? It sounds like this is your own personal setup? Do you activate the DVR with the same switch that activates the Red, and Blues?

Is it an outdoor bullet camera? Can you mount it outside of the car? You can open the camera, and void the warranty, and you can cut the power to the LEDs, or you can put a switch to manually turn the IR on, and off. Or is the camera looking at the car as it drives by, and you are getting reflection? You can get a polarization filter to cut down on the reflection. These are readily available at photography stores. You may have to use silicone sealant to attach it to the camera. You need to rotate the filter clockwise, and counter clockwise until you find the "sweet" spot that prevents the glare.

Bust out the windshield!!

Cut the Tree! NO? OK. How about reorienting the camera enough to keep the view, and get the tree out of the IR "hotspot". 150 FEET!!! What are you looking at a football field??? Actually this is what I use for alot of docks here in florida. The camera will be mounted to the dock, and the boat can be seen at night. The IR does not have anything to bounce off of so you really need some umf behind the IR. Just watch out that the camera is not angled down, and you get the IR in to the water. You may get a lot of hot flashes if the water is real choppy.

Is it because the evergreen is to close, and you are shooting IR at 50 meters? I would imagine it is like a spot light on the evergreen. I would relate that to a photograph where the photographer was to close to the person, and the flash just whitewashes their facial features. Is this more what you are seeing?

This may not apply in your case, but is it possible that the internal "shield" is not pressed foward against the glass? This prevents reflection from the IR to bounce in to the camera. _____________________________________________________________ This is usually seen in cheap bullet color cams that I get. Getting a longer IR throw may resolve this kind of video. I am only guessing, but it sounds like the camera looks straight out in to darkness. There are no trees, or shrubs for the IR to bounce off of, and the camera does not have anything to look at. When it is dark go out, and stand in front of your camera. I believe the "IR ring" will go away while you are standing there. The camera has something to look at. When you walk away the ring will reappear. If that happens then reorient the camera to "look" at something, or get a longer distance IR camera. Let me know what you see.

I have been jonesing since I have lost this on a jobsite somewhere. You do not appreciate what you got till you lose it! http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100341468&N=10000003+90401+501516&marketID=401&locStoreNum=8125 It saves me a lot of time on those 16 channels!!

Bring a pillow, and a blanket, and I'll put you up on the front couch! OH! Don't forget your hand tools!

Strip the outer, yank out the center conductor, and dielectric leaving the copper shielding, and then make a choker necklace out of it.