scorpion

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The first thing to determine is how much your customers are willing to spend on a device. The second is how many devices will you manufacture. This would determine cost versed gross profit. This could be a way for a thief to believe that he has "taken" the evidence which would prevent him from smashing the device to eliminate the evidence. Using 802.X you can still transfer the images to a computer/media center. I would not want this kind of a system set up on a computer that someone can buy at walmart for $300.00, and they are surfing the net wide open, and they are clicking on every "would like to enhance your web browsing experience?". Then they go to every free music download, and they install every P2P, and then they go to every free video game site there is! Oh Boy! That would be a disaster! I would recommend a dedicated device. Whether you use Linux, or MS is your choice. Perhaps you can install it on a flash, and make it an embedded system. The more we add to the system the more it will cost. I would like to see a very simple stand alone device that is very cheap for quick sell in a shop. I sell alot of these "security products" from Petra, and other sources, and they retail less $20.00 for some items, and less than $40.00 for other items. Other wise everyone would just bolt a DVR to the front door for the cost in that neighborhood. __________________________________________________________ With an internal flash drive someone could check the video as soon as they walked through the door with out having to wait for a command to be sent to a "device" then wait for the video to be transferred to the door station, then wait for it to load, and then play. OK! I was exaggerating! Sorry! I think you understand what I am saying though. The flash could be just large enough to catch one days worth of video, and the stand alone device could store the video/images for one week. Using analog video would be the quickest way to get the video directly from a "stand alone device" to the door station, but then there is the lack of security, but then at 100 milliwatts how far is that signal going to go? ___________________________________________________________ The signal may stop at the first transformer, but I am not sure. Yes your next door neighbor would have access to the video if they were on the same transformer. If the signal goes beyond the transformer then the whole neighborhood would have access. There is a lot of noise on power lines. CD players, and recievers, and TVs dump a lot of noise out of their electronics, and back in to the powerline. The system would have to have built in filters. You could use coding like they use for cordless phones, and use multi freqs. I do not know if the FCC has any authority over powerline transmissions, but it would not surprise me. Encryption, should solve this problem. You may want to provide with the sales kit a device that is installed in the electrical box that lets the signal transfer to the other phase in case devices are on opposite phases. For a do it yourself situation you are better off putting it in a shape that goes between the dryer plug, and the dryer's wall socket. Now you have eliminated the shock liablility of someone opening their electrical box on their own! _________________________________________________________ This would be very popular with people who own restaraunts. They get bread, meat, and other food staples delivered very early in the morning. Subs shops alone should pay for the production cost, and all other sales would be pure gravey! __________________________________________________________ This would make the alarm company's very happy if you were selling through this distribution chain!

For monitors: Residential: 13 color TV with composite input. Commercial: 13 color TV with composite input. Security is of the essence. CCTV monitor with high resolution. Tube is recommended before flat panel. ________________________________________________________ Cameras: Too many variables! 1 customer budget 2 level of security 3 wide angle verses zoom verses varifocal 4 cheap lens verses quality lens 5 level of darkness after closing time 6 reg camera verses hidden camera _______________________________________________________ Take your customer's budget, and look at the categorys above. If the budget is an open expense then buy the best of the best! If the budget is tight buy the cheapest all the way around. Here is what I do. I take the budget, and I mix, and match quality level of cameras to match the budget. I will put the most expensive cameras at the front door, and the back door. I will put expensive camras where ever there is cash. Offices, ATM, cashiers etc. I will put cheap worthless cameras in non threat places, or low dollar value products. I will not hesitate to use one by one inch mini cameras before I give up a camera location to cut back to meet budget. I will use mid priced products for general views. Avoid cheap lenses. They may be plastic instead of glass, or they maybe cheap glass with poor grinding. IR Measure from the camera to the area to be watched. Take this distance, and double it for the IR distance. This is not perfect science per se, but at least you will come close if you are not familiar with the brand, or the quality of a camera. Cameras are a live, and learn process, not best left to on the job training for a starter! This is one that I use in the "inexpensive" range. http://avssys.net/?s=product&sub=camera&cat=ir&p=vnd49ir _____________________________________________________ If pilferage is a problem then use PIR (motion detector) cameras. My favorite bullet to sell if budget is of the essence is the AVC 647. ‧ 1/3â€

I will pm you one.

You could always do IP over powerline, and use IP cameras, or encoders?

I would recommend that you go with a wired camera. Even though the Swann camera is wireless you still have to run a wire to it for power. You may as well run one for video while you are at it. I have installed a lot of the Swann cameras, and they are very finicky. All of the decisions are environment based, so take what I say with a grain of salt. What does not work for me, may work for you, and what I guaranty will work will probably crash, and burn for you. Swann's have to be tested on site before an installation. I will bet that you will not be able to penetrate more than two walls at the most. You can, but then you have to shorten the distance from the receiver to the camera/transmitter. Remember that transmitters get very hot. If a transmitter (xmtr) is inside of your camera housing then you cannot use high wattage as it will burn out your camera with exteme heat. Wireless cameras will use about 100 milliwatts of power give, or take a few millis. This is about the wattage of a child's walkie talkie. If that fits your specs than you are good to go. On long distances you are better off using an external transmitter, and external antennas. Wireless are great for vans that are used by mechanics. You can put a camera inside of the Van, and you can put the receiver in the window of the garage, and then wire the signal back to the DVR. This give you a really strong signal so that they can park anywhere in the parking lot. People who have a dock on oneside of their road, and their house on the opposite side of the road cannot use Swann wireless cameras. The distance is just to far. You are better off using a 220X zoom camera mounted on a house, and zoom in on your boat. Just play around with it before you mount it, and you should be ok.

CCTV in the United Kingdom are operating illegally http://blogs.techrepublic.com.com/tech-news/?p=1269&tag=nl.e019 According to a closed-circuit television (CCTV) expert, up to 95 percent of the CCTV systems operating in the United Kingdom are doing so illegally. Apparently, companies operating CCTV systems in the United Kingdom are required to alert the Information Commissioner of what they are doing and to put up signs warning the public that recording is taking place. According to The Register, this revelation comes in the wake of new legislation about to take effect in Scotland that could render even more of these systems illegal. Excerpt from the article: From my own my experience after personally surveying many, many hundreds of buildings, I would say probably less than five percent are compliant,â€

What area are you in? ATT (BellSouth) blocks port 80. I recommend that you change your port number. http://www.dslreports.com/faq/bellsouth http://www.dslreports.com/faq/7145 http://www.dslreports.com/faq/5627

I would suggest taking a crossover cable, and hooking directly up to your computer. If you cannot get in, then the DVR is the issue. I apologize for the WAN comments, I threw that in just in case I did misunderstand. It should be as simple as putting in your IP address, admin, admin, and you are in. Unless you bought the DVR second hand, and someone else changed the passwords. Try the crossover cable, and let me know what you find.

I would suggest manually putting in the ip address, admin, port number, and a "name" in to the address book rather than using the search feature.

This is what I would recommend. Take a camera that is varifocal 3.8 (or 4mm) to 12mm or more. Take a 13 TV with a composite input, and the camera, camera power supply/cables/bnc adapters etc, and take it to the location. Stand on a ladder with the camera, and try various settings, and let the customer decide which view they prefer by looking at the tv screen. This will save you alot of headaches at the time of the install, or after the install. Sometimes customers have one view in mind, and you have another view, and then you have those after sales blues! This has saved me more money, time, headaches, and has made my installs go much faster. I actually use a 220X zoom camera for site surveys, OR AS I CALL IT A DOG AND PONY SHOW. LOL! I have just one camera, and it covers every situation such as wide angle for indoors, reg view where I want to use a 6mm camera, and avoid the "distance distortion" that wide angle camera have. This is great if I am mounting outdoors as some people may want to see a facial shot, and I may not know what mm lens to use. I can set up the view with the 220X camera, and determine what kind of lens I will need. If a customer is shopping for a PTZ, then I can use this camera to simulate what the view of a PTZ will look like. This is great for those with large yards who want to see someone at their gate. I can mount a camera on the house, and save trenching 300 feet! I have a light stand that I bought at a music/guitar store. It collapses down for storage, and when I use it for site surveys it folds out, and it goes 10 feet up in the air. I hang a battery operated LCD screen on it so that I can talk to the business owner while I am zooming in, and out, to get the right view. I charge $100.00 for the site survey, and I give them this value back when they purchase a system. If they do not buy from me then my time was not wasted, and more likely they will have a better idea of how to do the install when they buy their own stuff from some discount store. Most discount packages will only come with wide angle bullets, or domes, and then they have to buy from me as there are no other alternatives. I do have a lens selector, but honestly I do not use it that much. I already can look at a site, and know what lens I need. It is nice to hand to a customer to let them "play" with it, and it helps justify the site survey fee. For the cost of a lens selector I would not really recommend it. For the same money go buy a camera that is varifocal, and now everyone can see the view on the TV. I have a light meter also, but the only time I use it is in the dark environments like arcades, bars, and nightclubs. I am not getting lux numbers, as I am only using it to show the owner that the "camera" they had in mind from a discount store will not work in a dark environment. One look at the light meter, and the first thing they say is that they cannot read it as it is too dark! Yes, and your camera cannot see in the dark either!

Do not remove the fan! WARNING! You are doing alot of video processing, and it is very taxing on the chips! It will work fine without the fan, but you will be shortening the life span of the product! Depending on the installation environment I may actually "glue" on extra heat sinks to the video processor chip (chips). I also educate the customers not to block the airvents, such as stacking them among hometheater equipment, and cable/sat boxes. Do not ever put a DVR on top of an amp/receiver. I know the customers do it anyways, but at least I told them so. I preach the same as Rory about using battery back with line filtration products or UPS. This will make or break the longevity of the DVR as well. DVRs do have some noise to them. If yours is that loud then I would recommend replacing it.

Your product will not have to use any motion detectors. The built in DVR will do the "motion detection" for you. It will watch the pixels of the video to see if there are any changes. If there are changes to the pixels in the video then it would record to the internal storage device, (SD card?). I would have a higher end model that would have wireless 802.11X, and have it send a snapshot to a web enabled cell phone. This would be great for latch key kids when they come home, or you are waiting for a package from UPS/FEDEX/USPOSTOFFICE. You could watch the door from any computer in the house! Having different models would allow you to have a barebones system, or one that can modified for each situation, or environment. This would be popular with the women who deal with "crazy" exboyfriends, or ex husbands, or any "threatening" situation that they have to deal with. Provide a very long cord on the external power supply so that it can go from the door to an electrical socket near by. The product can mount on the inside of the door with just two (or four) screws, and then on the outside of the door you can insert the lens through the original peephole hole, and it can attach to the "DVR". You could also do a powerline system. You can take the video, and put it through the powerline, and you can put the "DVR" somewhere else. The DVR will receive the video from the powerline. From there you can decide if it hooks up to the internet. On the outside camera I would have IR leds to illuminate the person standing at the door at night, or for dark areas, such as apt doors that are in corridors. Perhaps a built in door bell feature with a remote sounder. These are very popular for retro fits where there is no doorbell wiring. Having the LCD on the door is a great idea. How about having extra features such as a wireless lcd screen that you can carry with you. Perhaps you are in another room, and you here the doorbell (that is part of the hand held device with the LCD screen). You could hear the doorbell, look at the screen, and you could talk to them via the wireless hand held device. To make more money you could have wireless motion detectors that can sound an alert. If you do this make the system to accept two detectors with changeable tones. One for the front (primary), and one for the back (or secondary) door. These are used by home businesses. It gives you a few extra seconds to "clean up, or prepare for the next client" prior to them ringing your door bell. Mounting the motion detectors in the driveway is a good place to "catch" your customers early. How about a recording feature. This way if you are not home someone can leave you a message. "Sorry you were not home, please call me at..." Now you have a entry level product for quick sale, and you have a "residual" income as people add/upgrade their systems, or you can make the best money with the deluxe model/package. What do you think?

I would donate the quad to a charity, and gain some fame from an article in the news paper. Your DVR will have a whirring noise, but it should not be that loud unless your environment is really quiet. If it is under warranty, and it is extremely loud then I would suggest going back to your dealer to get their responce to the noise level. You can match a fan from a computer store. Pretest the new fan to make sure is does not have the same noise level as the one that you allready have.

Hey! Welcome to the threads! See you on the forum!

Welcome to the forum! I hope you have an much fun as you do learning!

Congradulations on having a wee lad!!

AVTECHs that I have do not appear noisey, but then at 2am in the morning that whirring noise seems very, very loud! I would say buy a DVR that matches the specs that you need, and then go pay through the nose for a high quality after market fan. It is the bearings I assume that affect noise more so then the shape of the blades, or the rpm. I would say locate the DVR out of the bedroom, and run wire for the IR, and video out of the DVR to your tv in the bedroom. http://xantech.com/products/ir_products/48095BKITRP.htm

What does your multimeter show? I have never seen one like this either! I wonder if you can pull 12 volt ac (not for a camera) with one outer, and one centertap?

Thanks for the input!

Instrukcja użytkownika Rejestrator cyfrowy CPD560 /AVC760 z siecią LAN http://scorpiontheater.com/cpcamtechsupport.aspx

I am having difficulty finding spanish manuals for the variety of the AVTech / CPCam dvrs! I thought that would be the easiest to find!! If you could look at my AVTech CPCam tech support page to see what your input might be if I have overlooked anything that would be appreciated! Thank you for your help!

Thank you very much! I appreciate it!

May I have a copy as well? May I also put your pdf on my website?

Here is one of my favorites! http://www.cable-electronics.com/pdf/comp.pdf