scorpion

I loved the original Donky kong as a player, but I hated it as an owner. You could stand on the ladders all day, and never get hit with a barrel. As a coin op owner you could not turn enough players over to make any money, or customers would get pissed because they waited 3 hours, and had to leave, and they never got to play it. They finally came out with a kit to fix this. You just solder this board above the main board. They also had other kits such as the Pac Man Zoom that many might be familiar with. I used to take a resistor, and attach it to power +, or ground to see what would happen when I tapped around on the IC chips. On asteroids I found that I could manipulate the size of the rocks, or the space ship. I created "megasteroid". The rocks would come out, ant there would be no place to go! The rocks appeared bigger, but it was still "electronically" the same size on the screen. You could go inside of the rocks as long as you did not hit the original outline. It was great to see the looks on people the first time they played it! I could make the ship the size of a pin point, and I called that microstroid! I took the sound board out of a Black Knight pinball machine, and I placed in inside of my 62 Nova that was painted black, and I had a black knight mural on the hood. I put micro switches throughout the car, and I put push buttons on the dash to fire off a sound effect such as the Wolf whistle when an attractive lady was within ear shot. It got a lot of stares at the "burger joint" car shows!

I think the reason you cannot log in to the DVR is that you may have changed the IP address, and the DVR reset itself to factory default which is 192.168.1.10, (or is it .0.10?) try this IP address. The log in is admin / admin

The ones that were stolen were Robotron, Stargate, Donkey Kong, and Mrs Pac Man. This happened over a period of time from separate locations. Also I had a coin op pool table stolen!!

Yes. My best recollection was the proud day that i bought a table top game called PONG. This was the very first "electronic" video game that started the coin op frenzy of the modern day era. I got a call from the pizza owner screaming at me to come and fix this machine, and now as the customers were upset, and they wanted to play this game! I went down there, and opened the door. It had choked on it's own quarters, and could not take another coin. The hard part was trying to unwedge side, by side quarters in the drop slot. That was a pain! The worse memory was learing that people would show up at a convenience store, and tell the clerk that they are taking the game for repairs. I show up, and I ask where is my game? Your guys took it to do some repairs! I do not have any employees!

Is the audio source on audio input 2 of the DVR?

I guess I will not embarass myself with Active Home Pro, and this; http://www.x10.com/products/x10_ms14a.htm LOL!

I do not buy direct from AVTech so I truely do not know if they have one, or not. They mostly have the cut sheets that you can download.

I do not know of any catalog. Here is the website. http://www.avtech.com.tw/english/cctv.aspx?Type=3&Type2=3

In the analog wireless cameras I see the 9 volts lasting about 4 - 6 hours, and the lithium batteries (expensive) will last almost 24 hours. Battery power is only good for short time recording such as during "nanny" recording.

Motion Detection is used for $800 80GB hard drives. The prices have come down on the hard drives, and the hard drive sizes have increased dramatically. I would recommend recording 24/7. If the DVR can do a dual record then I would recommend motion detection as well. If something happens in the night then you will not have to watch from midight to 6 am to see when it happened. The motion detection will give you a "time stamp" of when it happened. This will make your "search" a little easier (including the false positives). As for motion detectors: I would only use them if I wanted a specific trigger responce. Walking through a "zone", or a doorway is a good way to get a facial shot. You have a narrow space, and you have them looking towards a camera. I would agree having a bunch of motion detectors would be a pain, but then you would have less "false positives" compared to using the DVR motion detection. If you are connecting to an alarm system then you will want to use motion detectors, and not the DVR as the false alarm fees may be prohibitive. If you have doors, then can you use contact switches? What do you all think?

I repaired Pinball machines, and video games. I got involved because a camera was dead, and the owner said, "while you are here could you take a look at this for me"? It has been down hill ever since! This was the tube style of cameras before CCD. As prices came down more, and more people were having them installed. When prices came down in the 2006 time frame I could not keep up with the installs. I used to do 20 installs a month. Boy! Do I miss those days!

Most DVRs do not need to be upgraded. Firmware changed alot, and that was for Vista, and the newer DVRs should not have Vista issues. Do not change the firmware unless you are a dealer. There are several different versions of a firmware, and there are different boards. The newer DVRS will look at the firmware, and will refuse it if it is the incorrect one. The older DVRs will accept the firmware, and then appear "dead". DO NOT DO A HARDWARE RESET! You will need to try to reload the original firmware. It will cost alot to have the firmware reloaded correctly. It will cost about $150 - $300 for the service. Why do you need the firmware? Most problems cannot be fixed with an upgraded firmware. More then likely you are trying to do something custom, or you need to take it back, and swap it for a warranty repair. What do you think? Everyone took the firmware off of our sites because of wrong downloads then people tried to sue for damaged DVRs, and none of us want to pay for a DVR that we did not mess up. It is tragic, and it only hurts everyone because of the very few.

For those who have problems then download the Video Viewer for AVC 760 A (MPEG model), or Video Server E for AVC 760 (JPEG Model). The play back software is part of the whole package.

I do not use this DVR for audio over the internet, and I do not have any answers. For audio over the internet you will have to activate the icon. I cannot remember. The icon I believe has to be colored blue for the audio to work over the internet. If there is a power loss then you will have to manually set up the audio again to work over the internet. You can hear audio live, but I do not know whether it works on past history, or not. For audio you are better off connecting directly to the DVR, and pulling video, and audio for your needs. This works for past history also. http://www.cctvforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=17879

I cannot help you with this. I do not dig in that deep in to the DVR. The connection on the back is not set up like a computer. They are only using the connector for their purpose.

The DVR retails for $750.00. The specs are dime a dozen compared to other DVRs that are H.264, and networkable.

Wax is retailing! Do not buy retail! Contact this place: EclipseCCTV ask for Joey P. 1 800 323 8746, or look at the distributors that advertise on this website. Contact a distributor who is in the same time zone as you. This means that you should get your products the next day. I cannot order from California as it take 5 days to get product to Florida. Threat level: This is the kind of danger that someone is in, or soon going to be in. Residential markets are very low "threat level". A Diamond store is a very high "threat level". A person that has a million dollars in cash under the mattress in a residential home is a high threat level. When looking at your customer what can be stolen, or how much do they stand to lose after a theft? A computer is neglible in cost, but the customer data base may be worth everything to a company! I place GPS tracking devices in to computers to track where they go after a theft. I place tracking devices in construction, or lawn service trailors. These guys can lose $5,000.00, and potentially more depending on how big the guy is, or how much tools they have. What is your threat level? A computer, a gaming system, some stereo equipment, and a 42 inch plasma? If you have 5 42" plasma TV, or 60" flat panels, and you have more than 4 cars then I am going to place you in to the "high threat level". There is someone always wanting to steal what you got! With higher threat levels you will want to create rings of security like a bullseye. You may need to add electronic access to keep customers in the lobby, but allow employees to pass through. You may need electronic beams so if someone jumps the fence at a car lot they are spotted right away. Planting thorn bushes, and vines such as roses, can add layer of protection. Concertina wire just does not look good in certain places! What more can you do to protect your client? What do you think?

I now have a DVR that is available that works with the Iphone.

What price range? Wholesale, or retail? Are you the tech support, or do you require the company to have an in house tech support staff. Would you rather save money, and go straight to China? Do you want a product that is similiar to a TV? There is only 3 TV manufactures, but there are different names. What is your threat level?

You still have to run wire for power! Wireless is a tool, not the end all solution to everything. Here is what you have. Transmitters put out heat. How much heat can you shove into the camera housing before you burn out the ccd chip? Based on this you are stuck with 100 milliwatts, or less. This is the same as your child's walkee talkee. They work great outdoors, but not one inside, and one outside. Why is that? Wireless cameras are line of sight devices. In other words the antennas have to see each other. If you put the camera in one room, and the receiver in another room then you have violated the "terms of agreement". Read the package. It says 300 feet line of sight. That is an outdoor rating. Read the package, and cut that distance in half. Here is why. Draw a horizontal line. Now draw a verticle line. The horizontal line is distance, and the vertical line is power strength. At a short distance you have a lot of power. At the farthest distace the line should go from max to 0 at 300 feet. At 290 feet you have a thin margin of power. It is still reaching 300 feet, but it is just like a flashlight. It throws a distance, but if someone stands there you will not have enough light to make out details. What do you do? You walk closer, and now you have the person in good lighting. If you walk even closer now they are really lit up. Treat your wireless just like this. For "real" wireless setups you use over 1 watts of transmitting power. This requires an FCC license just like a radio station, or a ham operator. 2.4Ghz is a license free frequency, and anyone can use it. Your wireless internet uses this freq. Your cordless phone usess this freq, and baby monitors use this freq. That is a lot of interference for your low wattage camera to deal with. Here are some tricks Put the camera right where you need it. Put the receiver near the camera so that you get a rock solid signal, and run wiring from the video out back to the recording device. If your radio station can send a signal over 50 miles, then so can you. You just need to stop using a 100 milliwatt transmitter. Wireless cameras are the first thing that comes to a consumer's mind. I do not know why. I have to tell them that it is not wireless, and that the video is wireless. You still have to run a wire to the camera to power it, or you have to change a 9 volt battery everyday! Oh! I didn't know that! Wireless cameras are great for detached garages, and you have a driveway, or a tennis court, or a swimming pool in the way where you cannot trench for wiring. The garage has power, and you can power the camera from there, but you can send video back to the house to be recorded. With the right placement of the receiver it will work perfect. If you put the receiver in the back room, and try to penetrate four walls then of course it will never work. If you install wireless cameras alot then use this: http://www.metageek.net/products/wi-spy_24x http://www.metageek.net/products/chan-lite http://www.metageek.net/products/wi-spy-dbx http://www.google.com/search?q=wi+spy&rls=com.microsoft:en-us&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&startIndex=&startPage=1&rlz=1I7GGLL_en This will work for IP cameras, and analog cameras. You can find microwave ovens that might be interfering. You can change the channel on the router so that it does not interfer with the cameras, and you can take the cordless phone out, and upgrade to a 5.8Ghz phone. Now you just have to make sure your neighbors do not have anything that interferes with your camera. You can make these cameras work, but you have to put a lot of thought in to it. You can alway use a regular camera, and use an external transmitter. If you are doing a boat dock back to a house then you have to use an external transmitter, and you have to use poles to get it above tree top level, and you need to have a directional antenna. http://www.streakwave.com/ http://www.streakwave.com/Product-Ubiquiti.asp Oh! A warning. If you have a master bathroom with wrap around mirrors, then it will block the signal because of the silver watch you macall it on the back side of the glass. What do you think?

http://www.cctvforum.com/cms_view_article.php?aid=48 http://scorpiontheater.com/tool.aspx http://scorpiontheater.com/wiring.aspx http://www.accesspanel.com/ http://www.divplastics.com/ http://www.plumbersurplus.com/Prod/Acudor-PA-3000-Plastic-Access-Door-12-x-12/136222/Cat/607 Do not forget that you can hide wiring up against the wall, and the ceiling, then hide it with crown moulding. You can pull the baseboards off the floor, and hide wiring in the space between the floor, and the bottom of the drywall. You can cut the bottom of the drywall to accomodate more wiring. In the plumbing section they have plumbers plastic access panels. These are great for cutting in to dry wall. I look on the back side of the wall where I need to run wiring, and I check to see if I have a closet, or something can hide an access panel. From the back side I cut in to the drywall, and then I can get my arm in there to run wiring. For small holes you can just put a single gang low voltage ring, and a blank wall plate to hide a hole. For inside runs with no attic then you can ask if you can use the plastic plumbers access panes, and mount these in the ceilings. Now try to find a way to run the wires, but find a place to hide the access panels.

The hardest jobs I have are flat roofed houses. There is no attic space to crawl around, and the customers do not want to see the wires exposed. Those customers who are on a budget may not have a choice if they do not want to spend money. I love houses that have large air vents. I can take a screw driver, and try to get through 15 layers of paint to get them out. Once I have all of the vents open then I can drill horizontally. I use 12" extensions that link together. http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/jhtml/detail.jhtml?prodId=IrwinProd100181 The smallest paddle bit that you can use is 3/4 because of the size of the "chuck" that links the extensions. http://www.irwin.com/irwin/consumer/jhtml/detail.jhtml?prodId=IrwinProd100186 You can use the 6 foot drills, but they may be to flexible, and I prefer the extensions because I can press down on it to get a bit through a knot. The flexible ones will bend, and the curve will change the "trajectory" of the bit direction, and you might come out where you do not want to. Once I have bored through the rafters, then it is just a matter of running the wiring through the holes, and getting it to the camera. I have hidden the wiring exposed but behind the edge of the soffit, or the top of rain gutters zip tying them to the nail supports. One of the hard ones is only having to run wires down a wall but you have horizontal water pipes. You do not want to run your wires against the hot water pipes. I think the hardest part is finding your way in an attic. Before I go up in to an attic I look at the room where I want to be, and I memorize where the A/C vents are located, the can lights, and to see if there are any ceilling fans located in the center of the room. For simple houses this is very easy, but on custom houses with angled walls, and having to get to your destination by turn, by turn, by turn to get there may leave you thinking you are in the right spot, and you may be in the wrong spot. I take steel center coax, and I strip it down, and I use the center wire as a "stinger", and I either shove it from the room up in to the attic, and try to find it, or shove in the attic down in to the room. I then go and find the stinger. Insullation can be a pain. You move the rolled up insullation, and there should be your stinger, but it is not! You dig around, and you will finally find it. There are times where you cannot find your stingers in the attic at all! Just about the time you are overheated, and dying then you finally find it. I ask my employees to use stingers! I had one employee last year who did not, and he drilled down the wall to run the wiring. Turns out that he drilled right through the door frame. Lucky no one was standing in the door way to the room, or they would have had a headache! He was 6 feet to the right. It was a hard attic to read, and I will give him that one, but if he had poked a stinger through, and then checked it he could have prevented us from going to Home depot, and buying wood, and paint to make the repairs. Later he step on a water pipe! It sprung the smallest of leaks, but we had to call out a plumber to resolder the 90 bend back together. I tell them, and I tell them "watch where you walk". You might think it is the 2x4, but it might be a can light. Step on that and see what happens. Always assume the framer did not use nails! One day you will step on a stud, and you will find that it was not nailed properly. If you are prepared for it, then you can recover rather fast as long as you are using your arms, and hands to hang on as you go. Cathedral ceiling ar the worst. Attic access is from the garage, but you might have to cut an attic access in the closet on the other side of the house so that you can run your rods across the top to pull your wires. Running difficult jobs is not the hard part. It is having the right tool, or knowing construction techniques, (or knowing the shortcuts that framers take). When you go to run wiring always think of the worse! Hey! There is 110 wiring, or plumbing behind this wall. Hey there are two rows of fire blocks rather then one down this wall. If you look at the shape of drywall sheets then imagine how they are placed against the wall. They may lay them 4 feet high, and 8 feet wide, or they may place them 8 feet tall, but 4 feet wide. You will always find a 2X4 in the wall going horizontal at the 8 foot mark. If the room is taller then this, then be prepared to drill a hole in the wall to get your wires down to the floor level. What do you think?

Go to this page, and you can download the PDF for the part. http://scorpiontheater.com/avtparts.aspx

I have a customer and I have never worked with the ATT Two Wire. I saw where you can input ports, but it does not allow you to put the LAN IP address with the port numbers. I thought this was weird. I have done the "IPChichen" at I wrote down the WAN IP address. I could not connect remotely to the DVR. Not a problem for me. I did a ping on the WAN address, and it does not ping at all. ???? Anyone have Two wire Experience?? Thanks!

I have bad news for you. I would say the only way is to load the firmware in to the chip itself, and to install that chip on to the "motherboard".