scorpion

What kind of DVR do you have? What kind of software do you have? Do you have a disk that came with the DVR? Do you need to find where you can get the software for the DVR? Is you DVR hooked up to the internet?

http://scorpiontheater.com/reset.aspx http://scorpiontheater.com/Documents/AVTech_Guide_Network_Setup.pdf Wait for pdf to download.

I would not recommend it. Yes you can remove it. Do not change the date on the DVR with the 2nd hard drive. If you change the date then you will not be able to search the date time group of the 1st DVR when you reinstall it.

Your responces require me to be there on site in order to access your situation. Even though you have reset the DVR you will still get a password request screen. This is normal. You only press the ENTER button to get in to the menu. I do not understand that your password is still there? If you had a valid password then you would have access to the menu. If you have a "bad" password, or a forgotten password then the DVR will give you no responce. If you have reset the DVR, and you are using a bad, or forgotten password then you are now locked out as it only recognizes the pressing of the enter button several time. I would have to ask what procedure you are doing to reset the DVR. _____________________________________________________________ Question two leaves out a lot of details, and leaves us to only assume what your problems are. Are you pinging from the local LAN? Are you pinging from the WAN, and you are getting a responce? What IP address looks fine? Your LAN IP address looks fine? Your WAN IP address looks fine? Can you connect to the DVR via the LAN, or the local computer? Question? What port did you forward, and what LAN IP address did you use? What address to you see after going to this website? http://ipchicken.com/ Do you have a static IP address? Do you have a dynamic IP address? Are you using some kind of account such as http://www.dyndns.com/ Thanks!

Using the A/B device will be a little tricky. If you have the A/B device at the head end then when one apt "request" to see the camera then everyone will see the camera, and they will lose the football game they were watching, and all chaos will break out! You would need 100 A/B units, and 100 IR receivers for the "triggering".

Now that you have done a reset then what are you pressing to get in to the menu? If you have reset it, then there is no password. You only need to hit the enter button several times, and that will get you in to the menu.

An 8 channel DVR will show all 8 channels in a multiplexed screen. It will use a 9 box. The 9th box might have the date time group in it, or it may have something else. What you are describing sounds like some of those 8 channel multiplexors. You can see a quad screen of cams 1 - 4, and then you press a page button then you see a quad of cams 5 - 8. There may be some DVRs that operate like that, but I have not seen one. For the majority of the DVRs that you look at you should be ok, and you will see all 8 in a multiplex. What you should be asking is "when I watch past history how many channels will I be able to see at once"? Some of the higher end DVRs with H.264 may only show two cameras during playback. You can toggle the camera buttons to see the other cameras. That may be a more important question to ask when you demo a DVR.

The electronic tinker people maybe able to test the parts to see what is out of spec, other then that you will have to return it, or just use it as an IR illuminator.

New technology, and new problems! You cannot modulate in to digital TV. The cable company can now "inject" 10 tv channels in to the place where only one channel used to reside. The new trick of the trade is to have a switching device. The IR control is sent via the cable. It is basically an A/B switch. This will allow you to view the modulated picture without trashing the whole digital system for the other TVs throughout the house. The procedure is simple depending on the original installation, and attic access ect. In single story homes you can go in to an attic where the cable feed comes in right at the splitter, or amp. You insert this product between the cable feed, and the splitter. You connect the cable feed to this device, and you connect your modulated camera freq to this device, and then you A/B back, and forth between the two. http://www.channelvision.com/files/guides/Filters_And_DigitalCable.pdf http://www.channelvision.com/files/guides/diagramsLayouts.pdf http://www.channelvision.com/files/guides/satelliteGuide.pdf What do you think?

Your mistake has been noted, and your reprimand is in the mail! Oh, and welcome back to the forum!

The door to my office in the Army had a sign: Subconscious Level Energy Evaluation Program Do not disturb!

Perhaps LAN connected touch screen computers using the DVR internet software? Touch the 1 icon for cam 1, or touch left, or right to control PTZ? It would be easier then creating a program from scratch, and it would save you on multi station IR control back to the DVR. You could always do the RS 232 through Crestron. http://www.crestron.com/ Xantech has wonderful "black boxes". http://www.xantech.com/ IR control http://www.xantech.com/training_mod/ir/index.htm Here is a great company for automation! http://www.cinemarsolutions.com/ Geo Vision / Axis / Toshiba / Panasonic: Video Servers http://www.cinemarsolutions.com/mlserver.mlipcamera.php GuiGraphix http://www.cinemarsolutions.com/guigraphix.html

Time to go to the file cabinet covered in cobwebs to see what I can find.

Based on the simple part of the size, then the 1/3 is better than 1/4. But then again the 1/4 may have better specs then the 1/3. You did not mention what cameras you were looking at.

Is this the remote control that you have? http://scorpiontheater.com/Documents/AVTech_Guide_Nubix-16LT_Remote_Control_Ins.pdf http://scorpiontheater.com/Documents/AVTech_Manual_English_AVC_760_782_V1.1.pdf

We have them rebranded as Nubix. Most of our pages are off line for spring cleaning, or changes. I would recommend the Nubix 4ST! The AVC 760A is our Nubix 4ST The AVC 761 is our Nubix 4LT The Max pro is the DR040. It is an entry level 4 channel DVR, but it is a Simplex DVR. I only recommend this for the lowest of budgets. http://scorpiontheater.com/cheap_4_channel_dvr.aspx Here is a page that I brought back up.

I cannot think of anyone that has anything to do with this brand of DVR! LOL!

http://www.rcfp.org/taping/ Hit the links on the left side. Indoor recording then go for it! Outdoor recording? You better consult your attorney as you are about to make him very rich, and you are about to learn what "felony" means. Perhaps you can avoid all of this by posting large signs in your yard. Warning Audio Recording on premises. Sorry! Had to get the "legalese" out of the way so that those that read this post do not get in trouble, and say "they didn't know". Outdoor recording needs a lot of forethought before you start recording. Do not forget that you will be recording airplanes flying overhead, trucks honking their horns or what ever loud noises you have in your area. It is against the law to record conversations without all parties being informed. Thank you for calling blah blah blah this conversation may be recorded for quality assurance. Quality assurance? My derrier! The microphone has to run to somekind of "magic box" that gives you line voltage out. It has to be the same as what comes out of the red, and white rca plugs on your stereo equipment. Microphones themselves do not put out sound at this level. Here is what we use in the security field: 1. http://eclipsecctv.com/ECL-MIC_microphone.html or 2. http://www.louroe.com/kits.asp?model=ask4kit101 or 3. http://icrealtime.com/solutions/cameras.asp?cameraid=ICR150 The microphone is built in to the camera housing. The more sophisticated the recording then the more you will need equalizers, and notch filters. For distance recording then you will need something like this: http://www.sennheiserusa.com/newsite/productdetail.asp?transid=001511 http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Shotgun_microphone _____________________________________________________________ Now! Would you like to see the really neat stuff??? How about the off the wall, and the stuff that microphones did not know that they could do this: There are hydro phones, and there are the microphones that you are requesting that are placed on a surface, or a wall, and it picks up the vibrations. There are pinhole mics where you drill a small hole, and you insert an "ice pick like" microphone. Spys, and cops listening in to another hotel room from another perhaps? http://scorpiontheater.com/record.aspx Tell me more of what you are looking for, and I can get you something more to your specifications!

Hey blowrabbit! Are you surviving your weather issues (Jan 8, 09). Ton of snow, and now warm temps, and a ton of rain on top of all of that melted snow. Yikes! You know this technology! You are just baiting me right? Ok! I'll take the bait! Here goes: Yes you should be able to do this. The VCR will act as your "video switcher". For others reading this post you will have to test the VCR first. Press the A/V button to see if it switches between the VCR video, and Input video. If you do not have this button then look for this: Press the channel down selector. When you get to channel 2, and you go down one channel more then it may switch to video input. If the VCR does not do this then: You need the remote control that came with the VCR. It will have some button such as A/V, or Source, or Input. If you ever buy a VCR at a thrift store, or a pawn shop the first thing you want to do is this test. It is nice to know that you need a remote control before you buy it, take it home, and then have to return it. If the VCR does not have it's original remote control then do not buy it unless you do not care about the video input. Another test is to pull the plug while you have input video. Some VCRs will maintain the video input, and others will default back to VCR video, and you have to manually change it back everytime the power goes out. Make sure it is a 4 head VCR. If you have two VCRs side by side for the same price then go for the 4 head unit. VCR shops are hard to find. If you can find one then go ahead and pay to have it serviced. Older VCR will have a film that attaches to the head as the tape goes by. The longer between service then the more film will build up. VCRs by design will only eat important video tapes. It will run perfectly until you stick your wife's wedding video, or some other unretrievable video in to the slot. Beware! Have it service now so that you do not have to worry about it. If the head is damaged then you can still take it back, and get another one. Another troubleshooting problem. You get a VCR that runs great! The head is actually out of alignment. All this time you have been making video tapes. Now all of a sudden you need service, and the tech guy correctly aligns you head back to specs. When you watch your prerecorded tapes with the newly aligned head you may not be able to watch those tapes. The tapes were recorded with the head askew, and now it does not line up with the head. Yikes! Ever heard of Nachamichi? They became famous by having a "computer" chip look for tapes with miss aligned recordings, and then a servo would move the head to simulate the head position from the faulty head during the recording session. This was a major problem during the "Hey Days" of VCR movies. You would get those knock off movies, or independant movies, or ones that had been at the rental place for a long period of time that would just not play nice with a VCR. Nachamichi stood the world on its head with their servo technology! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nakamichi I'm babbling, and going off topic aren't I? I'll shut up now! LOL!

3 years? With CATV that would not effect that style of a signal. The fact that it worked to begin with is a miracle! With 3 years it may have come to a point where it can push the signal through. I would have thought that by cutting the coax back by about a foot on the camera side would resolve your issue if you have the length to spare. The reason being that the elements have worked their way in to the coax, and you have corrosion that you cannot see with the naked eye. Cutting it back a foot may get you passed that corrosion, and it may work again for a while. If this works then you can preplan the new cable run rather then "being" caught off guard. What would be nice is if you can do other unrelated work in the future, and you can tie the replacement in at the same time so that you can kill two birds with one stone, and make some money while you are at it.

Problem solved! You are using aluminum braid. You need to have copper braid. You may need to check the center conductor as well. It may be a steel center with a copper coating on it. The CCTV signals are low freqs, and they travel in the center of the center conductor. Cable / Sat are high freqs, and they travel around the outside of the center conductor, and this is why they can get away with copper clad center conductor. 80M is too far for the type of coax you are running. You are def losing signal!

For those doing body guard, child predator stings, LE take downs, and PI work on the fly then you can also build bird houses around your cameras, and use a 4X4 post to temp mount them in the front yard, and back yard. Paint the bird house a teal, or a brick red. Then paint a layer of crackle paint. When the crackle paint is dry then paint another layer with a mixture of 50/50 white paint, and water. As soon as the 50/50 mixture is painted on then it will start to crack, and peel. This will give it an aged look. This way your birdhouse is not a freshly painted object that just magically appeared. Being weathered, and "old" those who live in the area may just assume that they never paid attention to it before. You need to match the device to the environment. Here in Florida we have pump house to hide the pumps used for sprinkler systems. A couple of fake PVC pipes pointed toward the ground, and the effect is great. Now just point the pump house, or dog house in the direction needed. Do not forget the dog bowls! You can hide the transmitters in there as well. You can over come the branch circuit issue, but I will not divulge how here in the open on the forum. Also I use a transmitter, and a receiver tester. I plug in the XMTR where my camera is going, and I plug the RCVR where my surveillance recording will be, and then I can see my "signal level". You may have to use filters to weed out noise on the line. The tester is not cheap though, but it is worth it! If buying wireless devices then avoid 300 feet line of sight, go for the 1000 feet line of sight. 300 feet line of sight is about 100 milliwatts, or a child's walkie talkie. Use real power! Make sure they have heatsinks. They will get very hot when used. You will have to decide if you want fans on them or not. Will the fans be heard?

Are you using premade cables? Do you have a BNC to RCA adapter at each camera? Replace the adapter, and that should clear up the problem. Otherwise you need to take a small TV out to the camera, and set it on the ladder. This TV needs the yellow video input (composite). Plug the video from the camera in to the TV. Do you have the interference now? Then it is a camera problem. If the video is clear, then you have a cable ( or a connector) problem. What do you think?

I would suggest using video over power line. You can use AM/FM clock radios, air purifiers, mantel clocks, ect, ect. There are no wires to run. The video goes down the electrical wire to the electrical plug, and then you "retrieve" the video from another electrical socket. Great for "plug, and play". Great for hotel stings while you are in the side suite ready for the take down. I do not know the why, or the how you are doing your "job". Do you need someone to view a monitor to watch the video, or do you only need the documentation, and then review later? There are products about the size of cigarette packs that have a camera, and record to SD. You can place these all around the interior of a house, hotel, commerial office ect. You can move the recorders to the next location, and then pop in new SD cards while reviewing the recorded SD cards. If you need more info then let me know. I will PM you, and this will allow you to PM me. What do you think?

You have a system that shares common ground. The shield of the coax is the ground, and the white is the center conductor of the coax. Red is positive, and the negative is the same ground. The butt connection should work. The only draw back would be the kind of coax you use. Do not use CATV cable for cable/sat. They use a steel center conductor that copper coated. CCTV is low freq, and cable / sat is high freq. Low freq travel in the center of the wire which needs copper center conductor, and high freq travels on the outside of the center conductor which is why they can use copper coated. If you butt connected to copper coated coax, then movement may cause the butt connector to "scrape" the copper coating off the steel center conductor creating a bad circuit, or no signal at all. You might try soldering to the center conductor if there is movement of the wire is anticipated.