scorpion

I do not have a Lorex system therefore I cannot give you the answer. It sounds like you have a wall transformer. What are you trying to do? Are you trying to extend the length of the wire by cutting it, and adding more wire to it? If you are extending it, then connect the dashed line to the red wire, and the other side to the black wire. At the other end you can reattach this piece by the same pattern. Connect the red wire to the dashed line side, and the black wire to the other side. Use all safety concerns, and ask for help from others who can give you proper guidance.

SSC14WEB If this is the SAMSUNG monitor system that you have then you will need cameras with a different pin out. You will be wanting SOD14 Cameras looking at the back of the camera with the metal prongs down, and the clip on the top side then left is one, and right is 6 1 Speaker + 2 Video Out 3 Ground 4 Speaker - 5 Audio out / Alarm out 6 12 Volt DC http://www.samsung-security.com/docs/manuals/SSC-14WEB.pdf http://scorpiontheater.com/samsung.aspx What is the pinout that you are describing?? Is this the pinout of the camera you have on hand?? _____________________________________________________________ NOTE: These systems are no longer being sold at Costco, Sam's Club, and other places. Products will only be supported by Samsung as a technical issue, and no product repair, or replacement will be provided. I carry all of the items neccessary to continue operating your system. We also have break out cables so that you can connect BNC cameras to your SSC14WEB, but in all honesty the prices are ridiculous, and if you are an electronics tinkerer, and you can come up with your own solution then we highly suggest it. Cat 5 and 6 pin 6 connductor connectors can be used to make your own cables. You can cut two of the eight wires to make your cables.

Welcome to the threads! See you on the forum!

Welcome to the threads! See you on the forum!

Yes clearing the cache does help. This is where I can get an auto active x to display with the run / cancel . If you have seen those AVTech post where they say they can use the Video Server E to see the DVR remotely, but they cannot see the DVR through the browser. If I have them delete internet files, and when they refresh the brower, and enter in the DVR ip address then it will give them the active x prompt, and then they can run it. Now they can see the DVR though the browser. In some cases when you delete the temp internet files it does not give you the active x prompt. I do not know what all of the parameters are that create this situation, but I would like to come up with an answer for them. I ran in to this for the first time with a laptop with vista with active x blocked in Internet Options Security Tab Local Intranet. When I get there on site I will check Trusted sites to see if I need to do the same there. The deleting Temp Internet Files as helped alot of people who were "stuck". _____________________________________________________________ C:\Windows\Downloaded Program Files is what I am looking for. I am amazed at the amount of Java Runtime Environment that is listed. These are obviously what is used by the DVRs to run the browser. That is what I am looking for! Thanks!

Active X expert advice needed: Scenero with AVTech DVR. Proper networking (WAN) is setup, and working. Useing a browser you log into a DVR with IPaddress:port You get the AnyWhere Anytime page (Internal of DVR). When you bring up video you have a black screen, and you have a small red x at the top left of the video square. Java is not the issue. There was never an ACTIVE X prompt. I have deleted Temp Internet Files, and this did not work hoping to get the active x prompt. QUESTION: How to I get a computer to download an Active X? This was a Vista Software. Thanks for your help!

You would be surprised how many "mechanical" key loggers I find attached to computers. Cheating husbands, and cheating wifes, and those going through a divorce. I guess that looks like job security for me.

Severe computer hacking case! The woman, who is jailed on suspicion of illegally accessing a computer and manipulating electronic data, used his identification and password to log onto........ .....She has not yet been formally charged, but if convicted could face a prison term of up to five years or a fine up to $5,000. http://videogames.yahoo.com/feature/online-divorcee-jailed-after-killing-virtual-hubby/1259111 This case could set precedense!!

I am wondering when Google Earth will start photographing the interiors of buidings? Google Buildings!

WARNING: A wireless camera is not true wireless camera!! It needs power. You will have to run a wire to the camera to power it. You can use a battery to power it. They have 9 volt clip to power the camera. You will have to change the battery everyday! The battery setup is designed for short term use such as the few hours while you are away to catch a "bad nanny". If you have to run a wire for power why not run a wire for video? Wireless cameras are great for unattached buildings. You may have a garage, or a shed that you would like to have a camera to guard. The garage already has power, and the wireless camera will save you from digging up your yard to bury a wire! -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- First you will take a receiver and you will need to make sure that it is on the same "channel" as the camera. Look at the camera. There should be a sticker or something that says 1, or 2, or 3, or 4. If it has a punch through the number, or a check mark on it then that is the channel that you will set the receiver to. If you cannot tell what channel the camera is on then put the camera next to the receiver, and go through the channels until you see the video. The yellow connector (USA composite) is the video out. Connect an RCA cable to the yellow connector. On the other end you will have to get an RCA to BNC adapter. The adapter goes on the DVR camera input, and the RCA cable plugs in to the adapter. Note: Some receivers will lose the channel setting when the power goes out, and you will have to manually reset the channel back to the one that you need to make it operate. You may want to have it on a battery back up to avoid short term power loss situations. Note: In the USA the 2.4 GHz frequency is the same frequency used with wireless internet 802.11. You may have to change the wireless router that you use for computers to a different "channel" to avoid interfering with your wireless cameras. Note: The distance on the package of a wireless cam is for direct line of sight from receiver, and the camera antenna. In other words if you penetrate a wall with the receiver on one side, and the camera on the other then you will have to move them closer together in order to keep the energy level up so that the receiver can see the camera video. I cut the package distance in half when selecting a camera. If it says 300 feet (USA) then use it only good for 150 feet. If you need 400 feet for your project then you will want to select a wireless camera that has 1000 feet line of sight. The more walls that you penetrate then the closer you will have to get the camera, and the receiver to make it work. Here is a trick. Put the receiver on the most outer wall closest to the wireless camera, and run wiring back to the DVR. The outside camera will give the receiver the best signal, and make your system trouble free. In the USA the highest wattage that you can use without a license is one watt. If you go over one watt then you are in violation of FCC Rules, or you need to get a license to operate that "radio". You can use low wattage systems with no problems. Use directional antennas that point at each other to give you direct line of sight, and you get a better signal output compared to an omnidirectional antennas. Also raise the antennas over treelines, and rooftops to get better reception! One of the tricks to getting a wireless camera system to work is to put the receiver as close to the camera as you can get, then running a wire back to the recording device (VCR, DVR, or a PC based DVR). If you are getting fuzzy pictures, or you have rolling black bars through the video then you do not have enough "energy" to make the receiver work. You will have to move the receiver closer to the camera, or buy a higher wattage system. Most cameras with a built in wireless transmitter will be about 100 milliwatts. This is the same as a child's walkie talkie. You will have to watch out for cordless phones. What frequency does yours work on? 2.4Ghz? This will interfere with your cameras! You may have to buy a new cordless phone that works on 5.8 Ghz, or you will have to buy a wireless camera system that operates at 5.8Ghz. There is just as much interference on 5.8Ghz as there is on 2.4Ghz. If you need more wattage then you will have to buy a regular camera, and then buy a separate transmitter, and receiver package. Wireless transmitter, and receiver as a package will run about $1000.00 for a set at MSRP. At the lowest I doubt that it would go below $400.00 for the set. If it is cheaper then you have a value, or you are getting something that you are not wanting. Be careful. I would suggest that you hire someone who can design, and install a wireless system for you. This is not a DIY project. If you have talked to those that have bought, and installed wireless cameras then you will hear how it did not work, and what a cheap piece of junk it is. NO. It is because they misunderstand how it works, or they are trying to get the system to do what it was not designed to do. If you want a cheap wireless camera then be warned that it cannot put out any heat, or it will destroy the CCD chip. If you need more wattage then the transmitter has to come out of the camera. That is the rule. They probably stuck the receiver in the back room where the VCR is, and the camera is out at the front of the house. They probably have 3, or 4 walls between the camera, and the receiver. Read the package. It will say line of sight. Hmm. This means that the camera transmitter antenna has to see the receiver's antenna. If the camera is outside, and the receiver is inside then how can they see each other? There is the first failure. The second is too far of a distance. If they had put the receiver on the back side of the wall where the camera was, and if they had ran the wire through the attic, and down the wall to the VCR, or DVR then they would have had no problems at all. They did a poor design, and a poor install. Wireless is just a tool in the installers tool box. I would recommend a wired camera first then a wireless camera second. _____________________________________________________________ L BAND (1240MHz - 1300MHz) 950MHz CAMERAS http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/L_band S BAND (2 - 4 GHz) 2.4GHz CAMERAS http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/S_band C BAND (4 - 8 GHz) 5.8GHz CAMERAS http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/C_band Ch1 = 2.413 GHz, Ch2 = 2.432 GHz, CH3 = 2.451 GHz, CH4 = 2.470 GHz Wi Spy 2.4 ANALYZER! (Great for setting up cameras, and for debugging)! http://www.metageek.net/products/wi-spy_24x Chanalyzer 3.0 for Wi-Spy 2.4x (Computer Software for Wi Spy) http://www.metageek.net/products/chanalyzer-3 http://scorpiontheater.com/wireless.aspx

Look what I found! Is this the same Securicorp?

Internet in space! Please help! I am a newbie, and I cannot see my cameras from my Mars colony! Internet breaches the final frontier http://www.itnews.com.au/News/87654,the-internet-breaches-the-final-frontier.aspx Internet creator looks to the stars for his next project. Vint Cerf, co-creator of the Internet and a Google vice president, says he’s designing new protocols for a strong space-communication network, modeled on the internet here on Earth. Years ago, Cerf was the man who designed the networking protocols which launched the whole net phenomenom. But now the internet guru is reaching for the moon, positing it’s about time a proper working communication system was launched into space, ridding the space exploration industry of costly, non reusable point-to-point radio links, which inhibit interoperability and that have to be made specifically for every mission. To this aim, Cerf has teamed up with NASA's Jet Propulsion Laboratory (JPL) and the Washington DC based MITRE Corporation, a not-for-profit national technology resource on a project dubbed the Interplanetary Internet. The project, to develop communication standards and technical specs which can support rich networking in space, will be tested on the International Space Station (ISS) next year. If that goes well, Cerf hopes space missions will be designed to use the protocols as early as 2010. In an interview with MIT’s Technology Review, Cerf notes the primary difficulties in building such a network include distance-induced delays and the rotation of the planets, causing disruption in communication lines. To deal with these issues, Cerf says the project is developing a delay- and disruption-tolerant networking system [DTN] which uses store-and-forward methods - routing data through hosts which store it until communications can be established - similar to TCP/IP in design. "Using the DTN bundle protocol allows us to design more-complex mission configurations involving many devices on the surface of planets and in orbit around them," says Cerf, who adds he expects standard TCP/IP protocols would be used on the surface of planets and in spacecraft, while DTN protocols would be reserved for interplanetary distance communications. The project is not without security concerns, however, and Cerf notes great pains were taken to build defenses into the basic design so that each bundle-aware node would be able to identify any other nodes it's communicating with. "We will be using strong authentication methods, cryptographic communication methods, to ensure that the parties that are using the resources are authorised to do so," says Cerf, explaining how nodes could refuse to forward data from any nodes that it doesn’t recognise. Cerf reckons that someday soon, the network could even link manned and robotic spacecraft becoming the basis for a galaxy-wide communications system.

Safety! Safety! Safety! http://www.safetycenter.navy.mil/photo/archive/archive_301-350/photo311.asp

I think you can if you zip it, or RAR it.

Bump

Changing the DVR's LAN address may be an option. It is kind of hard to get customers to change browsers as most can barely type their way through the C:// drive, and files. This particulare laptop was set for a x block, and I changed it to prompt. That still leaves the machine inactive with video throught the browser. Thanks for the tip!!

When she does not allow me to be at home? Yes! That is why my dog's house has cable TV, A/C, telephone, wet bar, surround sound stereo, jacuzzi, and getting that pool table in to the dog house was a real pain! With the cold weather lately I need to go back and do some insulating!! Brrr!

Go to http://scorpiontheater.com/videonetworkingwithavtech.aspx and download the AVTech networking guide. This will walk you through the steps to set up your DVR with automatic tools there are within Video Server E (If you have video viewer then read the manual to video viewer for the same process). _____________________________________________________________ Right now we will only be concerning with the first item on the list, “Network Typeâ€

The software that came with your DVR is calle "Video Viewer". It may be the .0.0.8.5 version. Video Viewer is the new, and improved Video Server E. You will not be able to use Video Server E for you machine. You can use Video Viewer to connect to older machines. I have tested on various different models, and channel sizes.

The AVC 783, AVC 785, and the AVC 787 have the disk array port. Look at the manual for the 787 / 787 for more info. Any of the AVTech DVR will allow you to download the video to a computer, and then you can convert it to AVI. It is very easy to do. It may not carry any audio when converted to AVI though. The AVC 760 will fit the bill, and the AVC 781 will too with a 500 GB HD. I would have you look around at the posts to compare the Avermedias. I specialize in a narrow, but very deep with DVR companies. The majority of my customers are entry level, or budget level so this may skew my advice. I recently came across an AVTECH DVR that is older than 4 years old, and still kicking! It is used by law enforcement, so we are not talking glass, and brass on a shelf somewhere. If you want longevity then plug the DVR in to the best UPS / line filtration that you can afford. It makes all of the world of a difference!

I would obviously recommend an AVTech DVR, but then again you must look at the environment that the cameras, and the DVR is going in to. Budget is mostly the deciding factor. For instance. If I was putting the DVR in to an electronics closet with all of the hometheater stuff then the AVC 760, and the AVC 760A would be the wrong choice!! Why? I dunno? I just sell the darn things. No! No! I am just kidding. I would want a DVR that has an IR jack. This way I can run a wire from the big screen tv in the living room, or hometheater back to the DVR. They could pick up the DVR's remote control, and they can control the DVR even though it may be located in another part of the house! Now I need a DVR that has a remote control, and an IR input jack! Perhaps you want a burner of some sort. You will need a model that has that built in. Then again you cannot pop the DVD out of the DVD burner, and just stuff it in to a regular DVD player, and have it play. It can only be played in a computer with the software that allows you to watch. This is a great thing as a Defense attorney could not say the crook that broke in to your house is not the guy as you have modified the video to emplicate him falsely. That is why they have all of this software to play the video. Then again you could always hook a VCR between the DVR, and the TV, (or monitor), and you would not need for a CD, or a DVD burner. How long do you want to store video on your DVR? There are DVRs that have a special connector on the back where you can "stack" hard drives to get the long term storage that you need! Poke around here, and see what you like: http://www.avtech.com.tw/english/cctv.aspx?Type=3&Type2=2 Go to my website, and then download the manual of your choice. Now did I make your choices harder? If you were to ask me, then I would just sell you the most expensive one! That should make your choice real easy!

I played with a lot of those 8 years, or so ago. Wow! That brings back a lot of memories! I am glad we have evolved away from those "boxes"!! Now press *

RickA, I demand that you treat me with RESPECT!!!! That is "MR" Knothead to you! Thank you very much!

There is always a "parent" around to take away my "toys"!!

This would be the camera that I would prefer. http://eclipsecctv.com/ECL-CPIR_hidden_camera.html or this one http://eclipsecctv.com/ECL-CPIRD_hidden_camera.html I do not do PC based DVRs so I will have to defer to others who do. I prefer Stand Alone DVRs in budget is of the essence design.