scorpion

Boy are you going to hate being the "hometheater tech" after you resolve this kind of ciruitry!! First you need to make a left side circuit that has a variable knob, and then you need to make a right side circuitry with a variable knob. If you bought the right modulator then it shoud have a hole where you can turn a pot to make adjustments. For the other side you are going to need an amplifier that has a sensitivity selector pot. Once you have the two signals working as an independant source then you mix the two together and you have to balance it like a teeter totter. If the modulated signal is to strong then you will have a good picture, and you will have fuzzy cable signal. If you have a stronger cable signal then it will look good on a tv, but the mod signal will be fuzzy. If you get it right then both signals will be fuzzy! If you think I am joking then you are not a home theater installer. http://www.channelvision.com/files/guides/diagramsLayouts.pdf http://channelvision.com/files/guides/ModulationNotAvailable.pdf (this is a pain! They have redone the whole site and all of my links need updating! egads)! Look at Large Home Run Design Splitter and that should give you a picture of what I mean. Buy a 3 channel Modulator and then you can to cam 1 loop out and cam 2 loop out and you can do monitor out to give you a quad picture. Now comes the tinkering to get it right! Good luck! What do you think?

The spare line would be the best way, but it will not work as I am only assuming that the wire that is run is the type used by the sat dish, or cable company which is a copper clad center conductor, with an aluminum sheild. This will not work for two reasons. 1 Dish and Cable freqs are high freqs and they travel on the outside of the center conductor wire. 2 The Aluminum does not conduct well compared to copper sheild If they used solid copper center conductor and copper braid then you are good to go. They usually do not run this type of coax plus it is more expensive compared to the copper clad aluminum braid. I would say use the spare with a modulator and use the antenna in or the cable in. You may need to call the cable company to ask which is an empty channel. What does the cable DVR box use component or hdmi? What do the other TVS use? Just the cable feed only?

I do not know what is meant by a "fox" reseller? I am out of touch with euro pricing. If it is on the high side then I hope that excellant tech support is provided. If the price is bargain basement then it is a wholesale price, and you assume responciblity for the role of tech support.

Hey si_kungs, How is everything in the Philippines?? I hope all is well with you, and your family!

This is what I would recommend. http://eclipsecctv.com/LYNXC_security_DVR.html Will this work for you?

Your best bet is to located a dealer near you and go to their showroom so that you can compare different models, budgets, and then you can get tech support when it is needed.

Welcome to the threads! See you on the forum!

Welcome to the threads! See you on the forum!

I am confused. I do not understand why you would be switching inputs? The cable, and the modulated camera signal would be on the same input which I would imagine would be the "cable" input. If you are switching inputs then you do not need the modulator. Are you using cable boxes? If so then you need to change the modulated channel to one that is not occupied by the cable box. This requires some knowledge of the cable system as they do transmit information on "none used channels" such as the cable guide and other info.

http://www.eclipsecctv.com/ECL-554_mini_camera.html http://www.eclipsecctv.com/ECL-PT100_Pan_Tilt_Scanner.html Sorry! I could not resist!

What happened when you hooked up the holland electronics modulator??

You have done everything that I was going to tell you to do! I have no options left. Unless there is a dirty contact somewhere then it may be a bad chip. I would see if you could find another DVR like yours. If you can put your hard drive in to another machine, and watch the video then if it works then the chip that puts the data on to the Hard Drive is working, and the chip that reads the hard drive may be bad. I do not know how these systems actually work and I am only "paraphrasing". If the video looks bad right off the bat in the other machine then your DVR is def bad.

The Player bin starts off like this and it is greek to me!! Great! One of the "icons" does not translate from the cut and paste. The squares should look like a small i without the dot. egads! =CHKSUM=\?VER=002 53?4 MZP ÿÿ ? @ º ? Ã

This zip looks like it is from my website. Did you download this firmware from www.scorpiontheater.com ??? No one has experience with this situation. It has been said that you can reload the original firmware. I have also heard that you cannot reload the firmware if the DVR has had a "hardware reset" I have looked at the two kinds of firmware that I have. One has... AVC760_761_1098K2.zip MCU.BIN KERNAL4.BIN HTML.BIN BOOT.BIN Then I have ... CPD560_561_2011.zip PLAYER.BIN MCU.BIN KERNAL4.BIN HTML.BIN BOOT.BIN _____________________________________________________________ 1.0.88 is from 2006 11/14 1.0.98 is from 2007 1/30 2.0.05 is from 2007 2/30 2.0.11 is from 2007 4/24 It appears that the firmware covers all model number wether 501, 502, or 503, or 505, or 507. I have no way to confirm the above. I do not have the resources to resolve this issue. Anyone have a way of looking at this firmware in detail?? The firmware itself appears not to be corrupt, but for some reason your DVR does not want that particular one. I have no idea what firmware your DVR desires. You can click on my profile button and then send me an email and then I can send you the CPD560_561_2011.zip LABELED firmware. Any other dealers having this issue??

Who is the parent company of this DVR? Planet DVR 460 http://www.planet.com.tw/en/product/product_ov.php?id=10336

It bounced and he caught it????

Someone has been holding out on us!!!! Is your marketing dept sending out samples??

So in your opinion, if you drop a screw driver, then do not over reach to catch it?

http://www.eclipsecctv.com/LYNXC_security_DVR.html Here is a great PI tool!! You can put this on the wall and let it be an "air freshener", or a "thermostat". You can also hide it inside of a box on a shelf. Put the camera in to a "box" that matches the enviroment, (or shelf). You could put it in a birdhouse if you have those kind of nic nacs on your shelves. You can empty out a toaster a drill a hole for it to see through. This can give you 30 FPS for a day or two. For longer time frames if you only visit the cabin once a week then you can put it in to a low fps mode which will give you snapshots. What is the quality of the video / picture? Great! Dark places need to be tested to see what you can do to get it to work. This is one of my favorite all in one camera/DVR. You can insert an SD card to extend your time as well. You can paint them black and just throw them in a corner somewhere for quick video shots. The Lynx C is a portable CCTV/DVR combo that can operate on internal battery power (four AA batteries) or an external DC source (using an AC adapter). Designed for quick use and setup, it has an internal 1/4" lens camera and uses MPEG4 compression to record color VGA quality video at 640x480 resolution at HIGH, MEDIUM, or LOW quality settings (selectable). An RCA connector is provided for hook up to an external composite monitor. Compression: MPEG4 Recording interval: 10 sec/5 sec/3 sec/2 sec/1 IPS/2 IPS/4 IPS/6 IPS/8 IPS/Max. Recording resolution: 640x480 (VGA)/320x240 (QVGA) Storage capacity: built-in Flash Memory(64MB, 128MB, 256MB, 512MB, or 1GB option) Video Output: Composite

One wrong step to one side does not look to bad, but the other wrong step looks like a real bad day! Nice Pic!

bump

I agree 100% with you on that! I did not know if Planet was another arm of AVTech as in CPCam, or if they shared some kind of "mother" company. I thought I saw somewhere that it had H 264. That was caught my attention! I am still waiting on my Nubix 4BC with Sata. Tick, Tock, Tick, Tock!

There are many variables to select one. I am sorry that I do not have them on the website, as I do not have enough pages to fit them all in to. Describe the environment that the camera is going in to. Are there humans around, or is this in the woods? Does it need urban camoflage, or woodland camoflage. I can make the camera look like tree bark with texture exactly like the bark. You can send me a bark sample, and I can custom make one to it so that it matches the trees in your area. I can make it look like an electrical box. I use these on copper theft investigations such as putting them with an AC unit. There are several bright flash and IR flash types. For game you want the camera low at eye level of the game, and the regular flash to be high up in the tree. It will appear to be lightning and they do not spook as much. For game, or undercover work then you need cameras, and control boards that are silent. For nature photography it does not matter. One failure of game cameras is that people point them at an area. What is wrong is that the animal comes from left "stage" and exits right "stage". You will not get a shot because of the timing. You may get a picture of the tail of the animal!! Point the camera towards left, or right of the "stage". Now the animal sets off the "trigger" (motion) and then the camera gets the shot as they keep approaching! How is that for simple?? This is a common failure for newbies. There are many cameras that can be custom "cut" electronically to be used as a game camera. Each "system" has to be custom cut, and fitted to a box. You can make it cheap using "camo" sheets which stick on, or you can have it "bark matched". For game hunters, and PIs I recommend cameras that have LCD screens so that you can see the picture right away. Avoid 35mm film cameras as you have to develope them to see the pictures. The more you have to hide it the harder it is. You can hide them in side of oil barrels or tires if you are doing land/river garbage dumping. For investigative cameras then you may want an IP system where you can watch the video via wirless. You could use a cell phone card to get wireless internet as well. You can use cameras to create a "mesh" so that you can have a signal all the way out in to no mans land. This is not for the average hunter, but more for investigative work. If you are an electronics tinker guy, then you can build your own game camera, but it is not worth it for a "one up project". For a hunter then this is a needed "skill" to track, and hunt. You need stuff that works off of batteries for a long time so that you do not go into the hunting area and leaving your scent all over the place. It does not matter for PI / investigative work. You can leave your scent all you want. You may need a gillie suit so that you are not seen! You can hide cameras in the ground and have them look through dog poop. Use the fake gag poop, and cut a hole! I thought you would like that trick! Here are some cameras that are used for game cameras that need mods Sony P32 and P41, S40 and S600. http://esupport.sony.com/perl/model-documents.pl?mdl=DSCP32 http://www.sonystyle.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10551&storeId=10151&langId=-1&productId=11037675 http://esupport.sony.com/perl/model-documents.pl?mdl=DSCP41 http://b2b.sony.com/Solutions/product-detail.do?&prodId=43300&catId=43295 You can be the next "snapshot sniper"!! What do you think?

Welcome to the threads! See you on the forum!