zmxtech

thats good, now the really hard test, night time IR with someone walking past "snooping" for a face ID [not stationary] Most cams slow shutter speed blurs that without enough IR z

works for me ....

how about some night shots that will test em..... z

you got lucky ! show the pics -bet it wont capture a moving car ! z

flywire !

A TDR would of found that in a few seconds ! z

my software might do it for you -it will do most panasonics setups. [free] http://www.zmx.com.au/software.htm z

I do make them but for custom projects, last one I used was Jaycar kit KG9090 they are in Australia but you get the idea> http://www.jaycar.com.au/productView.asp?ID=KG9090&CATID=25&keywords=&SPECIAL=&form=CAT&ProdCodeOnly=&Keyword1=&Keyword2=&pageNumber=&priceMin=&priceMax=&SUBCATID=588 I replaced their relay with a better one also the spiel > 12V Light Operated Relay Kit B045 This kit can operate as a twilight on/off switch or as a light trigger relay. Operated from 12 volts, this versatile project triggers a 6-amp relay when the light intensity falls below an adjustable threshold. Turn lights on around the house when it goes dark or trigger an alarm when a light is switched on. z

I'll buy that 1/4' is crap !!! My "play" camera a panasonic super 2 dome with IR cut is useless at night even with IR ! z

instead of a photocell setup you could hook up a small 12 dc plugpack to the areas security lights so when they are on so is the night cam. OR -there are many kits that have photocells /LDR`s or photo-transistors just make sure the dwell time is slow to stop headlights etc z

You can do it from 100 foot away but the cost of the equipment that will "actually" do it will be expensive. sales claims rarely are close to reality seeing its your house> Better off to use a high quality day-night cam and wide angle IR illumination close to your front gate. [up high on a pole] The 100 foot trench will be a pain but the picture will be great !

sure no problem -will look into: -com port selection > the code is out there just have to find it -speed yes variable would be good -maybe better buttons also will add some in the middle that will do bigger chunks -auto focus I dont think that can be done -unless i run a macro ? its a menu setting not a command ? -joysticks for sure!!! I am already researching it would be cool. z

dont waste your time, even with a boot there is heaps of stuff that will make the picture poo. The sun will make it hot condensation vibrations bugs -spiders IR will be bad -reflections looks stupid ! your doing the right thing -good quality cam with a nice dome. my 2c z

if you want good quality extreme for sure an ex27 or so would work well, cams under $200 are mostly rubbish link> http://www.extremecctv.com/product_detail.php?product_id=68 z

I asked them directly, A simple task to email some and got nowhere? they have cut down ones for sales and web stuff but I need the real thing also NO images =NO buy !

The EX40 is ok if you get the rubber boot hard up on the dome, its the only camera thats worthy that i have used. 99% of installers dont follow the instructions and stuff up the settings. [i have analyzed this camera in great detail for a client] but as Rory says the rest are rubbish better options> the arecont with a 16 or 25mm IR lens and quality IR flood would be sweet [extreme/cantronic/rainbow] z

yes the cheap green ones are dangerous to your eyes. If you have an old IR filter you can check your lasers IR. simple test> 1/ test the lasers brightness with no filter -will be bright 2/ laser with filter still bright ? -no internal filter you can use a light meter also. I would think the LASERS focus would be slightly different 500nm to 1000nm 100mW LASERS pop balloons burn skin and lights matches. see wicked LASER site for example. z

for sure -I had the same problem of moths 1 or 2 setting off the motion detection. Move the cam or put the IR up high looking down etc... you will get a better spread anyway. my Sony HAD ex-view 1/2 is great with IR. and you can use less. z

YES the red and green high power LASERs can kill each pixel no problems anything over ~30mW will do it with ease. Also it depends on the beamwidth vs distance vs power. If they are across the street it will just blind the camera. If they are close pixels will burn. [and go black in color] If its a day night camera with the IR cut filter in 'off mode' at night its worse of course. The cheap green LASERs are a frequency doubled IR LASER and many of them dont have the IR filter so you get 2 frequency spikes green and tons of IR. On top of all that -some LASERs modulate the power so it will cause funky patterns in CCTV At the moment here in Australia idiots are pointing them at aircraft so now they are banning them. z

I feel like a salad bowl is watching me.....

a cheap or simple cam will give a crappy picture you will need something like an AXIS or arecont running at least megapixel or more with a simple jpeg that auto updates [http refresh] every X seconds on the page z

ah no VLANS are for switches [not routers tho the data goes through them] you did say there was a switch in there...? At least you can buy an AP with dual SSID's - most of the new APs do it [wrt54gs wrp400] etc they have 4 port switches too and some with DSL modems built in. I don't know much about `POS` comms sorry but most `real` routers can use their serial port if the main link goes down etc. But you will need a network guru to do it not something easy z

dual SSID`s on the WIFI AP 1/public > for the net [no security] for the dsl 2/private with WPA security this saves buying 2 APs -not all can do it check first [cisco can] and on the switch run at least 2 VLANS to separate the networks. z

VLC will do it and its free http://www.videolan.org/vlc/ I use it to watch NASA TV also ! http://www.nasa.gov/55644main_NASATV_Windows.asx z

most IP cams have RTP/ MPEG4 will do multicast AXIS etc etc... Make sure you get cams\video-servers that do m-jpeg and MPEG4 simultaneously so you can record and view. z