zmxtech

You are correct, it has a IR cur filter that is removed at night to allow more light in. and yes IR floods will be great z

I'm jealous.....

Most large IR bullet cams run really warm you wont need one, $200 would be pushing it for a case&heater, cam and lens anyway. z

so i wasn't going mad....

need to tilt it up to get the doors.-but then you miss the table?

yes the CCD will be damaged if its stares too much at the sun, I use bullets with Sony ICX404AK sensors these work well for cars. In most cases placement is everything most people make the mistake of half of the picture being the sky ! tilt it down ...Use the cars features as a sun shade.. z

yes I agree Acti for sure -dont forget Axis tho

A bit low res but getting there !

correct for a 1/3'' camera A vari-focal around 5 to 100mm is a good idea then you can get it just right... other options> Your object distance is 280 ft/85.34 m. To cover a horizontal area of 20 ft/6.1 m and a vertical area of 15 ft/4.57 m, you will need * For 1/3" cameras: a focal length of 67.2 mm. * For 1/2" cameras: a focal length of 89.6 mm. * For 2/3" cameras: a focal length of 123.2 mm. * For 1/1.8" cameras: a focal length of 75.6 mm. The following Tamron lenses fit your needs: Vari-Focal: 1/3" 13VM20100AS 20-100mm F/1.6 Aspherical, Manual Iris - NEW 13VG20100AS-SQ 20-100mm F/1.6 Aspherical w/connector, DC Iris - NEW Motorized Zooms: 1/2" 12PZG10x8C 8-80mm F/1.8 Compact Zoom, DC Iris Motorized Zooms: 1/3" 13PZA20x56 5.6-112mm F/1.6, Video Iris 13PZP20x56 5.6-112mm F/1.6 w/Presets, Video Iris Motorized Zooms: 1/2" 12PZA10x8C 8-80mm F/1.8 Compact Zoom, Video Iris 12PZM10x8 8-80mm F/1.8, Motorized Iris z

most models will run 24x7 , that's there job. coolant ? only when Elvis was around ! They run sterling engines etc... Now we have hi-res un-cooled ones

you need optics as the action could be KM`s away -a good IP DN camera with zoom lens in a explosion proof PTZ housing. [AXIS Q1755 comes to mind] There are some integrated units like the metal mickys from extreme/bosch that will work out of the box. ...ehh... dont know about lava tho.... I would throw in a thermal camera there then you can really see the action ! CBC ganz has a dual thermal/IR/color zoom unit z

If both have failed you might wana check the power supply ? is the netgear POE ? z

Not bad.....

yep thats what I mean, "how come i cant get the rego off the refection of a spoon" they do it all the time on TV.... These cheapo push-em out hard CCTV companies that throw domes about high on the roof...And a job well done ...here's the cash . aghh! After the 10th robbery with the 'hat people' they usually get smart and get a pro in ! [who finally aims a camera at the door to get an ID] z

you get what you pay for, why waste time on shoddy equipment ? The LDR usually bias's a transistor of some kind...... they are very simple circuits. z

youbuy youbuy my camera work really-long-time 100000Watts of power infa-wed many kilometers

If you want "res" you cant beat IP cameras, but if you have a analog system the pana would be great with the correct lens zoomed in. In your situation I would have a wide angle doing the door area and 2 cams with 5-50mm or so zoomed into the 'in and out' of the doors getting head and shoulder shots. Make sure the shutter is set for a higher speed capture of people -not 1/25 slow-mo that the automatic might select. this will give a crisp picture when there is a runner or a biffo/fight. my2c

IP Camera`s are like chocolate ! -just gotta have more.....

3. Overview 99% of all cameras !

[PIR-microwave`s] are great but a dual LASER\IR beam setup is pretty false alarm free.

You are correct a second "overview" camera aimed at the same choke point. -you can have a exit camera also, good for when the sun does funky things.

most people have laptops with Auto-MDIX (automatic medium-dependent interface crossover) so any cable will work. z

Sorry I disagree... you only need a crossover when joining 2 like devices like switch to switch or PC-PC ? remember the DTE DCE system -even WAP's are straight tru. The Acti instructions have a static IP in the setup 192.168.0.100 tho you can change it with the MAC/or the config tool. Using 2 IPs is the simplest way to configure them DHCP just makes it more complicated for the novice. Leave the router and DVR out of it till the basic tests are done. z

just plug a 'strait-thru' cable from your PC/laptop to the camera. the camera has a fixed IP its not in DHCP mode.

make sure you put a fuse inline, solid core has a habit of snapping etc...