VST_Man

I think that those mentioned above are all over priced based on actual requirements and use. I used to buy the big boys but have found the mini 10X PTZ's extremely usable in the same like installs. I can install 4 times the mini's for the cost of 1 Samsung........... sure, you get a better mag............but the cost drives me to use the mini's and install them smarter.

I use super circuits cheapo's................work fine. under 100..........easy

try lowering your hardeware acceleration....right click desktop, settings, advanced.....

I have a Samsung PTZ with a 1704NET. PTZ presets & joystick work great but the manual via software works slower than molasses. When you click on a PT or Z it moves "slightly" and is "sluggish". I called Avermedia and talked and they told me that it is what it is......... anyone else have this problem or issue? Firmware is updated and prior to updating ptz did not work at all.........

it will work but if it were my money and indoors I'd go with a Axis 207MW........sweet picture as compared to the analog..............

DMZ is not a good thing................fix your linksys port forwarding.... have you updated the linksys with lastest firmware? I've got several of these out there with linksys routers and they all work fine........no problems. I have had 1 or 2 linksys routers not pass ports no matter what I did but those routers were always older models that my clients wanted to keep around cause the lights still worked.

change the DVR first...set it to a static IP address. then change the linksys. PM me and I'll give you my phone number, then I can help you via phone and/or you can enable the remote on your linksys and i can change them for you. update? I can't belive you can't connect.............just need to get the setting right. BUT, you can use a cross over to connect to it direct and that's another way..............easier to setup the network properly first.

I might try to add a wireless client on your boat so that when you dock it you can access it via the wireless connection. You'd have to add a wireless connection to your home network if you don't have it?

set your net working to static IP address..ut yoyr gateway in, forward all ports to this IP address........................then try it again. what type of router sdo you use? ports to forward; http port, remote config port, and upgrade port. also update your firmware..........there are 2 sites to download firmware from; USA site............ [/url]http://www.aver.com[/url] Overseas site, where you get more current updates.......I don't understand why the USA site is always behind this one but I've found it to be the best place to get yer stuff for Avermedia DVR's & ect. http://www.avermedia.com/AVerDiGi/

can you post a short clip so I can view it? also, try disconnecting ALL the cams and inputting a video signal from a sat receiver or VHS...........this will help eliminate/change problem? cameras can cause jitter, but the power supply can also have an effect...... you need to change some things and work your way back up........

all camera's or 1? swap out the cameras if..................

ah yes, the world is a finer place tonight! Scorp.............yer killing me here

I seen it......................I liked it. But, have I ever seen anybody this educated or sofisticated try something like this? That senerio is slightly 1 in a million? I could "try" to sell to this type of client but in reality the real money is closer to the ground for me...and more rewarding. I hear ya but I don't see ya

I'm not into the cart thing, espically that those "proud" prices. you can find those same carts elsewhere cheaper..........ie. Northern Tool, Harbor freight I use this baby............works great. fit's into my Yukon with no issues. http://www.rewci.com/tela18wistex.html and this for the back area http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/productsearch/gmc_yukon_storage_boxQQhusky_linerQQH2147954.html?apwcid=V1092232004W411a2344ecd29&apwkwd=GMC+Yukon+Storage%20Box+Husky%20Liner I love my birthday's

ok smartie...................out of 10 houses, which is gsm? phone line? none? CCTV? fake dog? ect.? you name a system and I can beat it too..............nothing is fool proof. The nice thing about gsm is that is provides a level of protection. not 100%, but good enough to improve the chances of early warning and/or arrests. There is a good reason why all my neighbor's have been hit and I have not? maybe it's that dome camera's all over my property? PTZ's with with IR? possibly that sign that says "protected by alarm system"? maybe my dog? and I'm gone more than I am here. and yes, I've answered my door with my glock inhand. ups loves me I never have to sign for it because....................

video card........should have 128mb minium? update the drivers on video?

ISOLATE the camera & cable from the buildings all together. went thru this 2 years ago.lost camera's and DVr......once I installed the camer's (dome) onto a plastic 4x4x3 box, which isolated them from the buildings, I've never lost a camera or dvr since. we've discussed the issues with grounding and strikes........path of least resistance is the building........which if hit charges to x amount of volts, and where are yur camera's attached???? conduit??? just my theory..but I'm happy. I don't EVER ground anything at the camera's.I always isolate and let it run.....

don't go thru the phone company.......use the alarm monitor company I use Security Central and they sell me the gsm modules and provide the connection in a all in one price. gsm connectivity needs to be tested prior to install to ensure that it connects with a tower/service. I use get the gsm on battery and test different locations and then I install it where it is best. There are also different antenna's available, including a 25ft. wire that allows you to run a antenna up the side of a structure............imroves the signal........ good luck oh, yes you have to recess that ball switch but the overall appearance and profession appeal is worth the look of a magnet thingie.......they look crapy to me. just pencil the area and then use a special wood tool to carve it out. takes a whopp'n 5 minutes.

I've used the recessed magnet in the door above the door knobs, not the hines. placement above the door knob ensures a quick trigger. whenever I have to install it at the hinge I use the ball pressure type switch to trigger. it installs in the jamb unseen.....you cn easily put one in here since the wire is there. the ball types need a 1/2 hole so fishing it is not a issue. repair the expert dry wall work and you'll see nothing of a switch as it will be hidden in the jamb. also, are you using and EOL resistors? most "decent" panels can handle them and any professional install should use them. I install the EOL resistors anywhere along the wire path but NEVER in or near the panel itself. EOL is a specific design feature that prevents shorting or sniping of the alarm wire itself. I have seen alarm switches cut and/or jumpered by employees so that they can enter the area without setting off the alarm. always train the user to call in a bad zone and get it repaired immediately if it does not work properly. also take a look at gsm radio's for your monitoring station comm..........works great. basically is a cell phone path vice a tekephone connection................way better and reliable.

relays work out to 1000ft.

I've tested a wireless relay connected to the io of the dvr that commands the ptz presets when motion or magnetic contacts are tripped. ie. motion at gate, ptz moves to gate preset to capture event. door contact tripped, ptz preset moves to capture event. it's all wireless relays with battery on the sensors................

check the power...seen this where the camer distance from the power supply is to long. I normally use adjustable power supplies so can adjust/compensate for cable distance........works very well. ie. 15vdc adjustable used on a 200ft. connection, adjust the power to 14vdc so that the end of the cable voltage is 12vdc. ie. 28vac adjustable....same same.

did you have any noticable difference in the daytime pic when you changed the 207mw lense? I did this with another lense and ended up with a IR daytime pic.......... what "kit" did you purchase? there are multiple...................and can you post a pic?

you will always have some differences in cable and connectors which will make your tip'n a pain..........even the compression types. once you find a cable type and connector that works........stick with it. Always order connectors ahead of running out and check them to make sure they work when you get them. I've collected connectors because I thought they were all the same and I found out that every manufacture/reseller cable & connectors are manytimes different. even at the ISC's.........I'll have a DEMO on a great connector kit and once I get it and try to use it I end up tossing it on the shelf because the cable I have is slightly different or that thin strip of platic that is between the RG & power completly messes up the connection......... it's like a pair of shoes..........no one shoe fits the same...........

if go with a high res B&W you can power the camera out beyond 2000ft. using a small solar panel & battery. CAT5 & NVT balun http://www.barcodesinc.com/nitek/tr560-active-receiver.htm The transmitter at the camera end is unpowered........ I have installed these and they are premium in terms of quality.......but pricey.