VST_Man

he is angry because you did not trim your walk way for him.............. I had a UPS "Gal" do the same thing when I first started out. She did not use the horse shoe technique but she did not bother to bend over.she did the drop test with a slight kick at the end to give it more direction.

- CAT5 has 4 PAIR of wires, 8 wires total. - 2 Baluns per camera/signal. you can get a combined balun at the DVR end of 4, 8, & 16 - 1 pair frm the CAT5 is require per camera signal - PTZ? Usually 1 pair is required for the DATA for a PTZ camera. need to know the model and manufacture of the PTZ setup. older PTZ's have more wires, especially the PTZ bases - 150? missed your point. - power at garage is ok, but, as long as your cable runs are less then 200ft. you won't have any issue with power in the house. - why CAT5 on all? I like to use CAT% only when it is required based on install & distance. RG59 Siamese is better in most installs. Baluns are like Women. Most are ok and the really goods ones are expensive.

check your spot monitor settings and/or sequence out settings. most DVR's are programable

I purchase most of mine directly via importers. If I have to buy from a dealer I use recommended over selecting. If I can't get a recommendation I buy and try. Yes, I have a few extra cameras lying around but the biz requires testing these things every now and then. look for a 2 or 3 year camera warranty. I have a 2 year. don't waste your money on 1 year. also remember that IR bulets are spec'd at 2 ta 3 times the actual IR range. ie. spec'd at 240ft. really means it only does 80ft. at best. Only extreme IR performs as sold. you may want Digital Signal Reduction? Noise Reduction? IR Cut Fiter? all these add to the cost. I've seen 65 dollar IR's out perform 350 dollar speco's.it's all about learning and understanding what your buying before you buy. If I had to buy off the cuff I'd go with AvySys or CCTVone to start. funny thing about AC and video noise is that when you avoid it you sometimes still get the noise, and when you don't care you end up ok.sometimes. AC causes video noise via inductance of the electrical field AC produces. The industry practice is to avoid 1ft. to ensure no problems. I'd drill another hole. Lights.make sure you test the effects of your camera position and lights at night BEFORE you secure it down as the light may have a negative effect on the pic.glare is a killer. away and behind is always good, or just go out at night and find the darkest point behind the light that offers you the pic you want.

camera recommendations....search the forum and read more. many camera to buy and try. you need to understand the specs and the crapy sales techniques out there BEFORE you go shoping. also ask to see a live demo of the camera. GV pricing? search and you will find power......siamese with 95% braided solid core is the best RG cable and POE via CAT5. powering at the camera only required if distance becomes a power issue. powersupply..get a PTC type, auto- reseting fuses try to plan camera install around AC motion lighting.....works and is simple to maintain if your a geek your "office" is already a PC parts shop. make sure you organize with expansion and geek'n in mind. and also make sure you have enough AC available. I have the cables coming into the room via the corner or the room behind the door (not down the inside of the wall becasue I'm always changing/testing something). Power supply is high enough for me to look in it and work on it. DVR is up high and out of my way. Plugs? I got too many but thats the nature of the beast. Battery back-up.APC with 2 1000kva towers. I basically took a 2 x2 ft. piece of 3/4 inch plywood and mounted that behind the door. on that I have the power supply with a shelf above it for the POE switch. I also do the PTZ wiring on this board. my next house will have a 19" rack and all the toys will fit very nicely!

locking up? bad DVR. should not lock up...... transfer rates to USB are higher than over thenetwork no you can't remove the drives and read them on a PC my first and last DVR was a EVERFOCUS. The one I had worked fine but after I figured out specs and pricing I got more for my money elsewhere. I think it's now in a box in my garage? forever lost...........

I demo'd this and it works preety darn good.......... http://www.avssys.net/?s=product&sub=pcdvr&cat=h264 and this was also sweet http://www.avssys.net/?s=product&sub=videoserver nice thing about the IP Server is that it did not take away any camera "slots" on the main DVR, it added to it. ie. a 8 channel DVR with a 4 channel IP Server equaled 12 cameras.

axis are good but there also other camera available. knowing parnets you'll need to make this SIMPLE or they won't like it. I would; - avermedia 1704Hybrid http://www.aver.com/dvr/eb1704_hybrid.html if you plan on using IP cameras. Hybrid's do both analog & IP cameras - avermedia 1704MOB http://www.aver.com/dvr/eb1304net.html if you don't use IP cameras - 8 camera PTC 12VDC power supply - 4 IR Bullet cameras - RG-59 Siames cable - TV/LCD Monitor with LCD mount. Must have composite RCA input connectors so you can input the Avermedia monitor - surge protector with battery backup - GLOCK APC45 would also keep things in order try to keep as simple as possible as parents are not fun to shop for when purchasing hightech

ACTIVE Balun with CAT5 & you will need to power at the camera if possible due to voltage drop/loss consider wireless if you have a good line of site

I love a lime with my beer!

you know your getting old when........................."the new guy can't figure out the time lapse stuff". where's da remote? sorry, had ta say it stuck tapes are a pain. tough ones required placing the box upside down on the carpet, plug in and slap the crap out of it a few times. hopefully it will shae loose.but, most older VHS types are in need of belts, ect. you can rebuild them if you want to get it running better? Maybe place in a time capsule and bury it for 100 years? Antique then........... The rest of your issues can be found on the internet..... search for the manuals.

not to be to forward, but, if your going to use Pelco, call Pelco and let them engineer it for you. Then add in your install costs, overhead, lunch money, ect. 600 cmaeras? you'll be there awhile............

you need to start with the recording software for the IP cameras and work your way out to the cameras. Fiber? single or multimode? connector types? ST or SC? converting fiber to network? how many RJ45 slots do you need? or does a giga switch better fit? IP cameras? MPEG4? MJPEG? 1megaP or 3 megaP? again, will the software record a 3 MegaP or just a 640x480? in otherwords, if you purchase a MegaP camera and can only record in 640x480 you just wasted your money. the way I would do it is I would build the fiber "backbone" and then RJ45 /network my runs 300 feet or less. I'd use POE IP cameras. I'd find and purchase a DVR capable of recording the IP cmaeras native resolution. Other things to consider; - storage of IP camera recordings is massive - day/night requirements? Natural lightinging works fine if used properly - IR requirements? most IP cameras do not pass IR - bandwidth required to view remotely is higer with IP cameras - you can purchase fiber with tips installed and a pull device attached, BUT, pulling fiber is not like pulling wire, so check your rules BEFORE you destroy a fiber cable. - protecting Fiber is a great idea, even idoors. ie. condut I would call "Black Box" and have one of thier Fiber Salespersons lay out a Fiber plan for you. Black Box can provide all parts needed and they are very helpful in engineering it.

label and disconnect equipment until the problem disappears. if you do it in a manner that makes sense you may find the problem. I'd start with the power supplies first, monitors, cameras, one at a time, disconnect, wait, watch. If you can, bypass the battery back-ups to make sure they are working properly. Mke sure you unplug the monitors from power also.disconnect completly when troubleshooting for this problem. You'll find it................

are you using the wrong pair?

video acceleration settings? lower that setting........ motion causes PC based DVR's to "jump" in CPU resources........

yes and no..............after you install it you will know. to plan just make sure you install cabling 1ft. vert & horiz from any other power lines. if you end up with gl just insulate the camera mounting surfaces to remove the potiential. ie. mounting into ceiling tiles insulates from gl

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one thing about lenses.....you get what you pay for. Yes, the cheaper ones work ok but when you compare to a better lense the differences shock you. edges are clear, not fuzzy. optics are clean and easier to focus. IR types are also better.

use Google Earth after you get the location....much better in planning. Ball Park figures are really hard to just toss out with a project like this. I would build the recording side of this first and then expand to internet last. Nice thing about large areas and IP cameras is you can hide the DVR anywhere and the recorded video is priceless. Remote viewing a nice to have. Ball Park figures are completely a SWAG and is not realistic until you have more information. ie. camera location equals camera required. distances, wireless or wired, equal hardware and labor required. # of cams equals sticker shock! Travel? Long Term support?

hold on.............encodes/decoders are expensive.........one decent DVR with a IP Server at the distant end could handle multiple cameras. how many cameras? as mentioned above, using a bridge via networking along with a IP Server (Pixord or Axis) you can do it, but, you have to also figure out the best recording & viewing method. I tested a system from AvsSys that uses H.264 IP Servers. Worked great! Check them out. http://www.avssys.net/?s=product&sub=pcdvr DVR's are also Hybrid. Neat trick with the H.264 IP Server was that it did not take any analog slots when added to the DVR......ie.a 8 channle H.264 analog DVR with a 4 channel H.264 IP Server equaled 12 camera total. Softaware could handle multiple stacked of any combination and overall was limited by CPU & card slots available. I built mine on a older dual core 2.8 and it handled the 8 channel with 4 nicely.

another option is to use a modulator and insert your spot monitor output into your cable/sat cable. using a diplexor (radio shack) you can use the same cable to run both signals. diplexor takes a sta signal and a modulated signal and transmits them both down one cable. a diplexor at both ends allows you to insert and seperate. at the TV side you would continue the sat signal to the rceiver and the modulated to the TV input. there are more expensive ways to combine modulated signals into cable & sat systems...........ie. your can insert the video and then insert into cable channels to view. I try to avoid more cables as it gets old woking on houses.they are hard to rewire.

Rory, I will later today.got install............... But, why the heck can't I upload anymore? I'm not the only one either. Can this be fixed? I've mentioned it multiple times and many agree but nothing happens...... thanks

stay away from a PC Based system.....unless your staying in port...."USS Neversail" I'd use CAT5 with analog cameras.............4 port balun in the engine room. 1 PTZ (mini) with 3 armor dome low light. I'd then use powered splitters (splitters may cut down on cable run if Loop out is not located near) to provide monitors where required and spot monitors to critical areas. I'd extend the VGA from the DVR via 50ft. VGA enxtension and also entend the remote via IR extender. Go with AC power mate. DVR..16 channel.............check out Avermedias newest standalone Hybrid. Gives you the best of both worlds......analog & IP Semper Fi

I have not ried it yet but it should work. Put Axis 207MW's into CCTV housings...........great Mega for the money.works in low light, but, not at all in no light, and it is not IR sensitive..........and, it's wireless. I am planning on installing them into outdoor housings...........be nic if I could find a smaller housing.