VST_Man

obviously the noise is being inducted via the cable/tv..........you can try to use a ground loop isolator or grounding all of the equipment to one ground. if it is GL you can block it. if it is a noise issue with the cable signal you can't. need to find the source and stop it.call the cable guy? most likely he won't have a clue as to how to isolate that noise? but it maybe worth the call another trick is to use CAT5 with baluns with GL noise isolation between the DVR & tv?

http://www.nigc.gov/ReadingRoom/Bulletins/BulletinNo20072/tabid/738/Default.aspx and deeper yet..... http://users.tkk.fi/~iisakkil/videoformats.html

thanks Rory...like I stated, work one day and the next it went tips up on me

I've seen the aver hybrid with axis 207mw work fine..............even though it is not listed int thier ip camera line-up, other axis cams are, this one loaded and recorded fine.

goto display properties, settings, advance, troubleshoot...........and reduce your acceleration settings one "notch" at a time until the video displays.....then leave that setting as is.....

think about networking IP camera's vice going with a one for one video link. you can network that 15-ft. with some high gain antenna & decent equipment. IP cams are also very nice to use these days. your only issue to to ensure that you build the network seperately from any exhisting network.....bandwidth is yours http://www.pexas.com/index.php

I use linksys with no problems......54G to be specific..........better/expensive ones out there but I like'm and they work.

have you considered off-site IP camera recording? all video recorded off-site which protects video..............price out a T1 to the house, RF bridge the cabin, RF bridge the gate, and record it all elsewhere. reduces equipment. If your client has the money just go for it. just make sure that the internet link is dedicted...........or use a very good router that can handle QOS. cabin; IP 4 camera Server with analog camera's Main House: IP camera server(s) with analog camera's.............AND use the Axis 207MW along with the Axis 212. Recorder: Avermedia has the new 16 channel hybrid, see link at bottom of post.......... http://www.pexas.com/index.php?cPath=21 info http://www.cablemodeminfo.com/quicktip-cabling-power-ethernet.html-ssi http://http://www.aver.com/dvr/newsletter/jun_07.html

a decent router can keep up with DNS and save you money

blocked ports equal logmein remote services........try it why do you need that info if ports are blocked? If staying LAN only, just program the DVR onm a port outside 80 and be happy.

ya'll be careful of this kid of mine.............he is in his 3rd year of College at ECU and I can't afford him anymore. Looks like he is finally working again! I turned him onto this forum so that he could "learn" in other ways. It's ok to hear it from Dad but I know kids and how much they really like to listen to Parents!

perfect

insulate everything connected to the elevator............camera also.

12vdc & 24vac are both "good", but since all your camera's are dual voltage stick with 24vac as it is becoming the industry standard. I use 12VDC when I need to power other accessories..ie..a external usb harddrive. note: 2 different types of power supplies availble. PTC & fused. PTC is a auto-resetting 1amp fuse and fused are the agc or mini fuse types. I like both..................PTC cannot be increased where a fused can be increased ie. replace the 1 amp fuse with a 2 amp fuse, in order to power the usb drive. I'll pm ya on purchase info....... varifocal means you can manually adjust focal length & focus.

yep, I call mine an "employee"

check the charts on voltage/cable loss. And also watch your TVL loss. A unspoken video loss on this forum is not widely recognized but it is a real issue to spec out. Example: 380 TVL B&W camera uses less bandwidth than a 550TVL Color camera, therefore, voltage loss and video signal loss are linear if the cable used is equal. Sounding kinda techie now, but, a 380 TVL B&W will go beyond 1500ft. on a CAT5 with no problems but a 550 TVL Color will start to show video loss at 800ft..not exact, just an example. If you put both the camera's on monitor at 100ft. the B&W looks as good as a 380TVL should, but the 550TVL Color will show loss of color depth and actually video picture loss on the sides and top of the pic. RG cable has the same limitations, just different lengths. Better cams, cable, and baluns make a difference in signal loss and increase signal distances. Now what would be cool is if a very smart person created a new video signal codec where all cams used are super mega B&W pixel that provide a "smart" data overhead with color regen info........and on the DVR side the DVR would take that video signal and process the color back into the pic as coded in the data overhead. Even better would be the fact that during low light & no light conditions the DVR only has to be connected to a outdoor light sensor that switches off the regen color codec. I hope I just made sense because my brain hurts now.

yes your are pushing your DC power too far, especially for a PTZ. 18 guage is best but despite using best of everything you can't beat the laws of resistance, Amps & voltage loss. Read the voltage with a digital meter while you move the camera......it most likey will drop or "bounce". It's kinda like not having enough water pressure on the end of a hose supplied by a well/pump. If you demand more than it can deliver the flow weakens, pulses, and becomes unusable with most sprinkler heads. If you are stuck with DC try using 24VAC and converting that to 12VDC at the other end. You can also use a adjustable higher amp power supply but unless you are perfect at not smoking electronics I'd stay away from it.

DC & AC are both "good". Cable quality and length to camera will determine which one to use. 200 - 250 for DC and beyond that AC. You can use AC below 250. Amps of the power supply equate to amps available to use. All camera's have specs that provide the camera's amp usage. ie; most smaller bullet type camera's with no IR use approx. 150mA (miliAmps). with IR they can go higher. PTZ's use 1.5Amps and higher. So if you total all your camera's amp usage at full power rating you'll get the number you need to supply. 5 Amp's is ok if you use 4.5 Amps.......power supplies come in larger Amperage if required. 1000mA is the same as 1 Amp Best power supplies I've installed are Altronix, pricey. I've used cheaper with no problems yet. Altronix is just made better. The below link is to a Armor Dome I use in my installs. Has just about all you'll need. Nice thing about it is that it is IR sensitive with a IR cut filter.....the other link is to the IR I use with it........you'll light up the scene very nicely! http://www.primocctv.com/primo/DOMEMAIN/DOME-PD2815NVF/DOME-PD2815NVF.html [/url]http://www.supercircuits.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=5436

yes, CAT5 with 4 camera's....furthest out is 800ft. works fine. camera's are mounted on metal buildings so I mounted waterproof plastic boxes first to eliminate any ground loop......

you can also "bridge" a network several times.ie make 2 or more smaller shorter wireless connections via solar power. pricey but will help you get over a hill or two. If it were me I'd just direct bury fiber...........

baluns work fine a short distances. 140 meters is approx. 450 -500 ft........at a swag, as I am All-American use CAT5 with Baluns........24VAC. if outdooor inground, use direct bury gel filled CAT5.

1 cat5 can handle 4 video signals as long as you power at camera. reason to use either? depends on you and your install plan. RG is good out to 200 - 250 ft. at best. Baluns/CAT5 can push video further. Power/amp loss due to resistance in wire is an issue for both. 12vdc loss is higher than AC. Video signal loss is an issue for both but Baluns are designed to "balance" out signal loss.

I use the Axis 207M...price is also nice. Has bandwidth management and more. Also consider the Axis 212 PTZ..it's very nice. Both are Mega pixel so the pics are "sweet". I am considering using the 207M inside a regular camera housing. It fits and I figure why not...........

I gotta chime in...........I very rarely seen any damage to camera's as a direct result of vandalism. I always recommend using vandal's in low obvious places and regular housings/box on higher/untouchable. Hiding camera's is cool but most times the perp keeps moving until they find a weaker target. Visible camera's equal trouble. Hidden camera's invite stupids. Hidden camera's have a place/use but the appearance of video camera's keeps "most" honest. Just take London as an example. Crime has dropped to a crazy low because they have camera's everywhere.......and I did not see any birdhouses on street lamps....yet. I really think that the legallity of video will be changed and aligned more with audio recording laws.............hidden video recordings will be challenged in court and most likely will be tossed out.maybe not today, but in the future? .........I don't agree, I'm just saying.

tried to post it but I get a "check ftp settings" error..........I did not change anything on my PC so??????????? any hints?