VST_Man

shouldnt i be able to type in the IP of the DVR say: 192.168.9.130 in the DVR software and view it remotely? yes, as long as you follow some rules. first the Argus DVR WEB Server has to be set to a port. Make note of that port number. Most likely it is 80 if it is the only DVR. Open IE and enter 192.168.0.130:"port number" in the address line to view DVR from local area network (LAN). To view from the wide area network (WAN) you must setup your router to port forward "port number" to IP 192.168.0.130. THEN, in the IE address line you must enter your WAN IP address....you WAN IP address is assigned to you by your internet provider and maybe static (never changes) or dynamic (freq. changes). This WAN IP address is unique to your internet account via your internet provider. You can got http://www.no-ip.com and use the tools to find your WAN IP address. Once you have that you can enter that address into IE followed by the :"port number". hope this helps

using the monitor output, contact http://www.prairietech.us/index.html Randy can hook you up with a decent wireless system.

don't do wireless if you can wire it...........more parts equals more cost. and rememeber that you can locate the DVR closer to the camera's and network back 300ft......CAT5 as wired for networking, is good out to 300ft. max.... KISS...keep it simple simon

just thinking out of the box.....has anyone ever tried to use video goggles? They have become extremely "nice" and maybe something to look at? elsewise, I'd stick with LCD...................

installing a DVR into a small refridgerator? I'm looking for a enclosed DVR "case" and actually think that using a small refer to hold the DVR, and some beer, might just work....................... to be used for installs at locations without AC or decent cooling. set the temp to lowest and let it run.... comments? condensation a problem?

RG-59 for under 250ft. CAT5 w/passive baluns 250ft. - 800ft. CAT5 w/active baluns 800ft and longer go with 24vac, and yes power the loger ones at the camera. you could go with 28vac if you shorest is around 500ft.? 4 camera's seems very small for a building that size?

I'm basically after a box that will keep a DVR cool. AC is available. Wine cooler is not deep enough..measured it. Refrig's are typically 22-24" deep.........pretty much perfect for both a DVR & beer. Condensation? I think it's ok to have a DVR in a frig becasue a frig is a basic ac exchange unit........the DVR heat should off-set the refrig cooling condensation issues. Anyway, I'll see how that goes. If worse comes to worse the beer will still be cold.............. anyone else have better idea's, let's hear it

you need to insert the DVR output into a cable box combiner. this will convert the DVR output to a Cable signal. example: Cable has channels 1 - 180. In order toinsert the video onto channel 61 you will also need to block out chanel 41 before you insert it, basically steal channel 41 and then use it via the modulator. Blocking a specific channel is expensive, equipment wise, so you need to block a range of channels, 61 thru 68..... Call Jack at Channel Vision: 1-800-840-0288 He is technically able to tell you what you want and even sell it you.

in this business there are a lot of unknown things. to mention a few; - dips switches are not labeled or mention in the documentation and when I call tech support they act like I'm the first one to notice the above problem. Then they need time to figure it out themselves. Bad sign. - documentation is always out of focus. even the american manufactured have this problem. - sales phone lines are always answered, but tech support will call you back..wanna bet? - if the industry standard is BNC, why RCA? - some camera's come with power supplies and some don't? I've got a cabinet full of them now. - all mounting screws that come with camera's are cheap......toss them in the trash and get stainless. - always ask for an advance replacement, pay for it if you have to, OTHERWISE you will get the same camera back - sometimes tossing it in the trash is cheaper than returning it - camera's that fog up have a leak...period! Return it, or toss it - ISC West & East sell your information to marketing firms....my phone rings off the hook with sales pitches for the upcoming conference. Gets old after 8 at night. Maybe I'll call them and complain. - complaining don't work. Knowledge and beer can solve most complaints. - I knew Brett Farve was coming back this year! the list goes on. Good luck and happy CCTV

yes..the cocial input on the tv is for a modulated singnal. you need to modulate the camera signal or get a different tv with a input. I'd put my money in a new tv......modulating is old school unless needeed for a specific requirement.

wonder what the price per is..................nice tool for the box.

also check your video card settings..........and/or the video card in general. update the drivers on your PC also. I found that most problems like that are either driver related or video card related. ie. your video card shares memory with the MB memory, OR the video card itself is not spec'd out with the DVR card....per the manufactures recommended video cards used.

consider a 16 channel ps........ PTC.....each channel is rated at 1amp. box is 8Amps, allowing 500mAps per channel. You cannot exceed the 1Amp limit per channel sine the PTC fuse is "embedded". fused.....each channel comes as a 1Amp fused channel. box is still 8Amps total. But, I can remove the 1Amp fuse and insert a 3Amp fuse to increase the Amps on that channel. BUT, your overall combined Amps cannot exceed 8 because the box is rated to 8 Amps. Fuses allows "bumping up" of Amps and is handy when mixing things up. Normal installs I use PTC.......special aps I go with fused to allow me that extra if required. And, I'll sometimes use a 8 amp box with 4 camera's because I power a PTZ, a externasl USB/Network drive, ect. from the CCTV ps. Then I plug my UPS/APC into the ps and I can provide back-up power to more than one device without all the smaller ps laying around.

- total up the amps needed from the spec sheets for all attached equipment. That will give you the total amps required. You can use a power supply for camera's and another for IR. PTZ are usually on thier own power due to the amount of amps required. - higher amp power supllies are better and bigger is better, not bad. - AC over DC........none really. Just consider the distances of cables and apply either one. Just make sure your camera's purchased are capable to use the power you select. - consider a PTC power supply. fuses reset automatically, but you are limited to connecting anything over the rated amperage. Power supplies with fuses allow bumping up of amps to cover unique requirements.

good enough to use AC if distance is over 250 ft. If beyond 250ft. use 24VAC or a 28VAC power supply, depending on the distance. I currently run 24VAC beyond 500ft. with no problems. Basica day night cams...if you had to run a PTZ you'd most likely have to power locally because that distance and amps carried won't work very well. Always consider the total amps required. ie. camera, IR, heater blower, ect. It's easy to get it up and running during the day but when the sun drops and the IR comes on along with the heater blower the camera has a heart attack for more power. when using CAT5 I double up on a pair for the power.

my vote is with the CIA

you need to push the loop out of the DVR to a web page. I know that Video Insight (PC Based DVR) can do this and in order to get a embedded DVR to do it you will have to add equipment as stated above. Transcoders are not cheap. Video Insight also has IP software that may help. Basically you'd install a 4 channel Pixord into the loop and then pick it up on a PC with Video Insight IP Server loaded. Then you could "call" the camera's into your WEB site(s) from the IP Server software. And just a thought; be careful of what you present to clients as they may want this same capability. I've found that you compete against your competetors with better pricing and equipment. Trying to close the job with neat stuff creates clutter and most clients don't care for or understand it anyway. They look at you quote and compare it to others. Hope this helps.

why a camera? sounds like your collecting "data".........install a electronic meter and then have that "data" sent via 900Mhz trancievers. Check with Maxstream http://www.maxstream.net/ They offer this type of radio equipment that can interface with electronic devices for data collection. The camera can be built but the method you are trying to do it is old school. Convert that mechanical to electronic and then collect.

post your selected equipment and your results. I'm interested in learning more from others....thanks

plug it in and then put a camera recording the area......once you fire the butthead you'll be better off.

to stay completly wirelss you'll be spending some money to get what you want. 2 ways; network cams or direct video links. Both will cost you. sounds like your owner wants it all for nothing.

hey, for right now all I want is Vista to work with my printer.....

PC based....Video Insight Standalone....ICRealtime http://www.video-insight.com http://www.icrealtime.com

b

....it should come with a MB program that monitors these things. I use them only during burin and then I disable. Never lost a Server to heat. But then again I clean them out every 6 months to make sure the dust/dirt is cleared away. After they are built and tested they should not have a heat stroke. If your looking, try hitting some of the overclocker web sites as they need them to monitor overclocked pc's.