VST_Man

snowing in Idaho tonight!!! Merry Xmas to all.....

I'm a Video Insight guy so the methods with other PC based should be the same................set the video to be stored on the USB drive...........yes it is external, hide it.......it's safer then. let them walk off with the PC..........video storage is hidden.

thanks on the date. I just built a new Video Server (a 3.2 dual & mini case) a few days ago and must have have a beer before doing that part..... fixed in a flash...........

how far from possible camera location to dumpster? for what it is worth, have him move the dumpster to a lit area or lock it. even if he gets camera's on dump the evolution of tracking down dumpster danny is not worth it..............it's trash. even a simple fence around it works better than trying to catch the trash dumper.... just my opinion.............

yes

http://67.76.229.133/videoinsight

[edit by mod - link removed] ALWAYS buy higher on IR capabilities as they are ALL 1/2 of what they advertise.............. I have a link to it if anyone is interested, but, for $64 bucks who can question me, right? http://67.76.229.133/videoinsight login: ir password:ir cam # 7 is a 7706.installed today #4 is a WDR armor. all have the IR augmenting them. #10 is a WDR box. #18 is a PTZ, low light type.....it shows #4's & #7's ir shadowing.and you can review recorded to see weeks past.......... and I included my DEMO Video Insight IP Server setup of a IP Pixord Server (2 camera) on my property in Idaho...........#2 is a PTZ and #2 is a cheapo bullet.......PTZ control is mine alone.sorry! Idaho link is a wireless microwave link to a ski lodge 5 miles away..approx. located 50 miles from Canada, eh! You'all just got snow for xmas. access is revoked when I wake up tomorrow morning so enjoy.

work with tech support and Thomas..both are the shiznit...... I'm a dealer/installer for VI and have a demo IP server running with 3 camera's, and a client using it with 3 -4 camera's on one Server. I can increase the frames no problem. I do know that the network bandwidth directly impacts the IP Server. From what I have read in your post, your setup needs to be calculated for impact to network.and VI will help you with that. One of the biggest concerns for IP Servers is the ability of a network to handle the traffic. a couple camera's, 2 or 3, will slow down a Megabit network real fast. I don't know what a Gigabyte network can handle in terms of multiple IP camera's all wanting routing to a Server. The bottle neck for a IP Server is most likely onboard the Server and not outside it as the Network card used is usually a meg or Gig and common sense tells me that even the biggest of networks can't make a Server card bigger than it can handle..........it will crawl if overloaded. That's why I always recommend going analog FIRST and only IP if you can't.....and if you do I always seperate the data from video via a seperate network system. If your pushing several Gig into a Gigabyte Server.......well, there is no way to make the Server Gig bigger. Has Ultra Gig been bridged yet? Sounds like you have a bottleneck issue and you are maxing out the whole package and then some. Good luck and let us know how it works out for you. ps.....why such a hugh demmand for frame rate anyway? I'm always wondering why higher is considered better? But my opinion is mine.......... later

I use USB drives...hide the box in a wall, behind a desk drawer, ect. All those wires are just wires to a thief and he won't go cable tracing to find the video storage. If he finds it in under 1 minute you were done from the inside!!!! Keep your mouth shut so your employee's don't know....even your managers are a risk. trust none in security as I have found out that even family can be thieves. USB saves the network and gives you what you want. Just remember to work out the power issues. ie. I use only USB cases that have a 2.1mm power plug & 12vdc so I can power it via the camera power supply OR plug into the APC/UPS for back up power. Power goes out camera's stay on, along with the USB drive.

Keep It Simple Stupid......KISS In the Marines we always had that saying, along with; "If it ain't broke don't fix it" that's why I stated, do the easy thing now and work the problems out IF you have problems. If I were reinstalling for a client I'd replace the crap with decent. If the client wanted to keep the crap I'd install without a warranty. No everyone out there has the deep pockets to replace all............and doing necessary now to avoid monster bills is ok as long as it works. You can always replace cable later if it causes problems.....and it will one day.

get your IR from SuperCircuits.com. They have a 240ft. 12vdc model for under $75 bucks that works great. At that price I toss them and replace them..and I can buy & install 20 times of them at the price of a "extreme" type. It's not the 2,000 dollar solution but for the money it works very good. I split the DV at the camera and use the 1amp fuse to power them both..........all from the camera power supply

yes....have the older 5300w. works good for 320x240. New is 640x480...... no low light to speak of, motion detection is good, audio good. not bad overall if you only have a IP solution.

and.............this all started when you retipped the cables right? check your work with a multimeter for shorts.............even I screw up a connector now and then.

connect and check................kiss replace with better......smart smart......priceless

sounds like you are splitting that monitor cable and not using a amplified splitter. they are cheap............and are best for that situation.

I think there are 2 seperate issues here, both have a seperate meaning. Grounding equipment has been around for a while and it is pretty much a no brainer. Grounding provides a path of least resistance. Light'n will follow the path of least resistance........hence the resoning to ground. Ground Loop is caused from differences in potiential. All objects hold a "charge" You. me, buildings, wire, power...all hold a "charge/potiential". When you attach a camera to an object with a potiential and connect that camera via cable to another object with a different potiential, it causes the potientials to move from lower to highest, or negative to positive. This movement imposes a signal onto the cable that interferes with the original cctv signal causing it to distort. Ground loop isolators block the potiential movements and allows the cctv signal to pass clean. the higher/larger the potiential the harder it is to block. My point is, grounding and ground loop are two seperate things and should not be confused as one. both are required/present. I've seen GL caused by mounting camera's on telephone poles that carry high voltage power and also when a camera mounting screw penetrates a electrical wire/sheild. Both created GL I'm not an expert, just learned this while communicating/reparing in the USMC...and also on the job here.

what kind of DVR is this? I've seen this on power supplies. camera's, and on DVR's. Try the simple things first; - ground both camera's and DVR on same wire(s) do not add any special grounding on the camera's, just make sure the power supply and DVR are on the same power strip/UPS. - make sure the RG connectors are seperated and not touching in any way. - disconnect one camera at a time to see if the problem goes away.if it does that camera is causing the "inbalance". - isolate the camer power with single powersupplies. connect the single to the camera with the fluctuation and see if that corrects it. - monitor the camera input with a seperate video monitor.is it clean? - ground loop meter? if you have one use it to see if your getting any GL "noise" on the cables. Happy hunting..............

be careful of the "focus" feature as it may only be a visual on the video screen and not a measured function like the CM2. And, most video monitors are hard to use outdoors due to sunlight issues on that screen. I use the CM2 witha pair of video goggles. I guess I could use a PTZ controller at the camera but not at 500 plus. I'd like to see the CM2 improved to have; - a ladder minded construction. Current model was built by a bench tech and not a field tech. The goggles I use allow me to manuever the CM2 but I'd like to be able to be hands free.CM2 is not hands free or even close. I have to wrap the test cable (not a great idea but it works) aroundf my neck so that I can hang the CM2...or the CM2 becomes a easily dropped toy. - auto shut off is too short. when you are in the middle of an adjustment it can and does shut off. then you need to push that stupid button again, start over. - PTZ control - test pattren generator But the CM2 works great. I was not happy with one salesperson at CM2 because when I called to recommend improvements he basically gaffed me off because he was "selling" and not interested in improving it....that was over a year ago and I hope that "they" have changed that attitude as the world is not too far behind them.Rapor will improve the focus feature so that it is human proof.

I maybe wrong but a frame represents the final compressed product. any frame within the 30 frames is equal in terms of quality, bytes per frame, ect. If the 1st frame is grainy, adding 29 more will only add more grainy frames. more frames does not equal a better picture....only a more fluid in terms of motion. The quality of the overall "frame" is directly traceable to the compression type and hardware used. 30 fps cannot make a pic better in terms of quality. Many video users out there think that 30fps is the "best".....and it is great to record at 30 fps IF you have a 30 fps requirement..ie, Vegas has a slight of hand requirement and therefore has a 30fps requirement. Catching a shoplifter only requires 7 - 10 fps in my opinion. The overall quality of a recording system lies within the hardware and software, and also in cludes other things like the camera used, cable used, and monitor used. Any one of these items can cause a grainy pic, poor pic, ect. Just having a true 30fps is not an indicator of a GREAT pic...... we have a saying in the USMC com field; crap in crap out............this is the rated G version

yep, just traced one down the other day.................not fun but funny.

hemi? Yugo? Funny how the phases come out of nowhere eh? anyway, bottom line is to learn as much as you can before you purchase or pay someone like me to do it. Just depends on what you call fun and what your time is worth to you. Tom Boy? Hummm.. a model in NY that has a Tom Boy attitude.............you like retired & single Marines? good luck and read on............

ground loop.............power line interferance.................. is the mounting surface metal? Are the cams grounded? are the cams in another building from the DVR? are all cams effected? ground loop; make sure the power supply is plugged into the same strip as the DVR. make sure camera's are not grounded seperately.............do not fround them. do you have a CM2? (camera master 2) if yes you can verify the GL via test. isolate and trace; isolate (1) really bad pic/camera from the power supply and DVR.........view on monitor at end of CAT5. results will give you a hint as to ytour problem. one camera maybe causing bad pics on all via noise. isolate one camera at a time to ensure good. bottom line is you are getting "noise" on your video...finding that source takes a bit of selective troubleshooting but you'll get it. one camera cable could be installed ontop of a AC line which is passing that interferance back into the system? what type of CAT5 is it?

I recently watched someone elese troubleshoot a bad RG cable. They used a decent toner and sniffer, which in my opinion worked ok.not perfect. Anyone out there have a "perfect" method and/or toner/sniffer recommendation? Thanks.

what's the distance from PS to camera's? Is the cable direct burry cable or in conduict/PVC? what is the output voltage at the camera reading on a multimeter. sounds like you are using 12dc? you can alway switch to 24vac or 28vac if the camera's handle both. or use a adjustable DC power supply that goes to 15vdc and then adjust that output to a higher voltage to compensate for the loss at the camera........................... other option is to double up on a pair to create a "bigger" guage wire.................

haaaaaang on. check the pic at the camera with a good monitor. IF that pic is good, clear, ect. then you have issues with your terminating cable/equipment. If you put a good pic into a cable and get a good pic out at the other end the cable & camera are good. NOW, connect that camera to the DVR and check the loop out and monitor out for any changes to that pic. If still good, check your DVR recorded pic for any changes................this is where the changes are noticably going to be "bad" if the DVR is not of any decent quality. The solution is the isolate the good picture and then progressively build the system all the while checking for any changes to that pic. I've seen bad baluns, cable, DVR's, ect. cause all the problems you are trying to figure out. Cheap cable is one.....the thin stuff with audio, video, and power in one thin cable. CCTV camera's require a certain bandwidth to complete a perfect picture at the end of a cable run. Color uses more bandwidth than B&W. Resolution size also effects bandwidth requirements. Basically you have to have good cable that can effiecently pass the camera signal. Cheap cable is bad. Ever see those CCTV pattern test signal generators? Those things actually work as intended becasue they produce a perfect test pattern that is easliy viewed for imperfections if used to test cable or video production systems. All that "stuff" on the test pattern screen actually represent bandwidth results. If the test pattern varies you have a problem. Anyway, I wanted to jump in and say that you need to check the BASIC's first BEFORE you say the camera is bad, back focus is bad, ect. I can make a cheap camera look great and an expensive camera look bad just by using different cables, DVR's, and monitors. Seek and you will find.............................