VST_Man

WDR "box" camera, low light lenses, camera housing with heater.

budget equals answer................ I suggest doing both IP and analog. purchase IP servers and connect analog camera's. You'll need a decent IP recording solution. Video Insight has a IP Server that will do this for you. http://www.video-insight.com multiple buildings are tought to bring together with limited funds or limited bandwidth. Look down range at not only funding the purchase but also look at budgeting monies to maintain and replace as needed. If you can't maintain it why buy it?

no on interferance......... plenum is fire retardant and used per code in area that may "burn". the plenum outer coating does not produce poisenious gas when burned. always used............check the building codes..................

maybe I'm not thinking the same way, but, why not put in a camera as a decoy for the shooters and then cover that camera with a PTZ from a distance to catch the shooter. A nice sign that states "shoot here" next to the camera may even work. I always hear about the painball guns but never actually seen any video or heard of camera's being painted? also do a seach on the frum because I remember reading about a PTZ type camera that had audio built into it and when it heard gun shots it actually turned and looked in the direction of the shot. I believe Chicago was the City and the camera was working out well.

are they terminated properly? 1250 ft. is a long shot.........can't remember the specs on the RS converter but you may need to use powered RS converter? CAT5 can be be checked with a simple CAT5 cable checker, or a ohm meter. 12vac will still have a voltage drop........check the specs of the cable against the voltage drop charts to be sure. use a meter to check results CAT5 transmission....passive is not amplified and active is amplified. which one do you have? Protocol should be ok at D/2400. recommend "rebuilding" your chain of PTZ control. Start with the closest and get that working first..........then ecpand it to the next. and what do you mean by reset? most PTZ's require a minium AMPERAGE to work properly. I'd check your power supply to see if it has the "umph" to handle all those PTZ's....................I'm assuming that it does not and therefore the power is not stable....causing the resets.

take a look at http://www.video-insight.com I install them. 32 camera's will require a powerful dual core so plan to buy the best when you finally make your decision.

1. yes, keep it to personal and not biz 2. no.buy a lense 3. yes, but look around your garage for any 24vac power supply..cut the cable and add what you need. free is for me! 4. yes, no......in the long run a true PTZ is worth the money spent. old CCTV equipment is like old stereo equipment.... you can have it at home and get away with it.

just remember that PC Based are more "admin" intensive...............if it were me I'd stack stand alones.........schools seem to be under staffed anyway so this additional admin would be a nightmare.

just started to use the HA-619HB with BR-208 from http://www.avssys.net Price wise they are cheap and the overall look is more modern. calm type cover, cable is enclosed completley and the camera "cradle" drops into position which allows you to swap out camera's or work on the unit without screwdrivers.........nice feature when your on a ladder.

recomend providing your boss with 2 options. pay the electric bill or update the system. to update I'd recommend seperate camera & IR. camera's need a low light IR capablity with a decent noise reduction built in..............and then buy a good LED IR unit. place the camera for decent pics and then use the IR to focus your pic at night for the best view. stay with 12vdc on all as it will be easier to maintain and set-up. beware of IR specs as they always say higer, longer, better. Just cut all the specs in half and you'll be closer to actual.

expensive...................talk to Rick of KrCCTV on this forum. He sells the WDR type and I've used them with impressive results.

- look into POS for the cashregisters. basically takes the text output on overlays it onto the video showing every transaction on the register as it happens.....slight of hand is hand to catch on pros these days. - consider seperating IR from camera's if your budget allows. combined IR and camera's are ok but after time they are harder and more expensive to operate. spiders love the IR and will keep you cleaning them and IR never outlives the camera and your LED's will one day die and then your camera night capability over. - consider augementing camera's with lighting. less assel and easier in the long run. motion or constant. - consider and install hidden camera's; set up your potiental "customers" as they will see the obvious camera's and go inbetween isles or place they can stuff the goods.........hide the camera's in those places and you'll be amazed at what you see. [edit by mod - they appreciate the plug but please keep it on topic] - if you decide to get seperate IR, make sure it is 12vdc as you can power over the siamese cable. and, if you need 100ft of IR buy twice that as IR specs are always 1/2 of what they sell. - 10ft. ceiling will require varifocal lenses and/or lower installation of camera's. - consider hiding the video storage of your system as the theif will take the DVR if he finds it. Setting up a "fake" DVR is as simple as hiding the real and getting a older junk DVR that you just connect cables to and push the power button.secure the cables from sight. put a junk monitor ontop of it.does not have to work as it will look good enough to steal when in a hurry. hidining the video storage can also be done via USB hard drives.if GEO is capable of this? Just extend the USB hard drive to the end of a 15ft. ACTIVE USB cable, in a desk drawer, wall, closet, ect. and buy a gun, practice shooting it. have a nice day

unless the kids are under the age of 10 I'd advise him not to put a camera in his kids rooms...........

Based on my experiences with local police and neighbors, I'd recommend a simple letter to him from YOU along with the video showing his actions and a copy of the police report. Ask for 100% reimbursement for the camera. Also have that letter explain the tresspassing law and destruction of personal property. Then also request that he reply to you what he does not like about the camera's and what he recommends as a solution to the problem. Allow him 7 days to contact you along with a short note that if he does not respond in kind that you will seek legal action against him. After that I'd hire a lwayer and let it happen that way. ps...............it's always better to try to work it out before you go above his head. He may have had a bad day..............as we all do. And, the police seem to be too busy these days to do the right thing that keeps the courts free of bs............my run-ins with local police are ALL very much like they don't have time. Sad.......I've got simple tresspassing stories that would make you flip out............cops just say it needs to be handled in court.........see ya later....oh, wanna donate to our policeman's fund? facts are if the cop had done his job this thing would be at a end already. But, the cops ignored thier responsibility and made the problem worse by sending a message to your neighbor that it's ok to smash others personal property and you are stuck with handling that attitude on your own. and they wonder why people shoot each other? Oh, go file a report against that officer or police department as they clearly are ignorant of the law they are supposed to uphold.

congrats & good luck on your new career(s). whoaaaaaa! grunt is still a grunt in the corps. the "toys" help but you will never replace the grunt. become the master of your weapons, your training, and know your enemy. ensure your soldiers are also prepared...............everything else will happen, without a doubt, it will happen.

compression is better as it seals the connector and it easier to do. crimp'n also works fine. quality wise they are both "good". in the end it depends on the tools you like to use in installing. I still "trust" crimp'n becasuse I can see the tip and feel the connection after it is made. Compression is all done with no visual reference other then a quick tug to make sure it is right. As with all connections, the final test is in the pic. my advice; if your not used to crimp'n go with compression.

DVR; triplex, MPEG4/H.264, 100Mbps internet connection, motion recording with selectable zones, hard drive size, remote "included"...not extra, CD writer, compatable with "all microsoft software"................. Camera's; lux level, F-stop, varifocal, voltage with current requirements, gain, resolution per TVL, indoor/outdoor, mechanical filter. I guess the best way would be to reverse engineer your question and allow the customer to answer some quick questions via a drop down screw down format. ie. indoor/outdoor, voltage, IR required, TVL required, ect. But then again I alway liked the pictures and, with the newer OSD (on screen display) type camera's on the market there is a huge gap in what all those setting under the OSD really mean and how changing one can effect others. ie. with WDR OSD is you canb effectively disable the WDR if you "turn on" another setting in the OSD and never know it. Having paid for it and now you just turned it off unknowingly. DVR's are thier very own maze of settings. Bottom line is buyer beware......................or hire me.

very cheap................but works. viewing via internet will be slow refresh. for that same money or cheaper you can get a eclipse type DVR that will outperform. I'm not a big fan of cheap equipment but when money is a issue cheap stuff works ok, but, long term lifecycle is always going to be questionable.

recently had a install where a dome mounted on a wall was showing heavy ground loop hum/rolls. applied the basics and nothing cleared it up "until" it was decided to replace the camera.......and when a specific screw was removed all the ground loop problems disappeared. put the screw back in and it came back. turned out that a high power conduit was behind that screw and when it touched the conduit it created the voltage difference. just general information that may help

is this going to be wired or wireless? http://www.rotron.com has some wireless VHF/UHF equipemnt that you can use at the field..uses batteries. Basically a RQT-150 connects to the beam equipment, the RTQ then communicates with the Teleswitch which is basically a switch clouser device via DTMF signaling. Connect the teleswitch to a I/O board and you an then direct the I/O equipment to respond as programmed. ie..connect to an alarm panel for "zone" alarm trigger or to a I/O to have a PTZ spin around and start recording. If it is wired........connect the beam terminals to a simple 12vdc relay board that provides NO/NC switching. Once the beam is triggered the relay is "switched" thus providing NO/NC..as you wired...to the device of choice

nedd to know what "tv card" it is, your router type, your connection type, and your sisters phone number. you also need some type of WEB server to interface the "tv card" VNC is pretty straight forward.....port that is...............hint, hint.

yes, they work. a bit rough but considering the size and what it does it is fairly neat. do a seasrch on this forum..I posed some on this a while back.

ntsc/pal?

set ELC (electronic Shutter Control) on, BLC (back lighting control) on, L-Lock is AC only, AC phase correction.....only used to sync camera's with monitors/switchers.....F/L is flicker control for indoor lighting.off out doors, off is no problems in. 7706 seems to have a better picture if used in cover outdoor areas and indoors. IR fades quick if it has nothing to reflect off of so use this camera's strengths in positioning it.

change the power supply and check results...........