VST_Man

yes, there is a (usually plastic) phillips screw head that adjusts the luminance put out by the camera.........that can be adjusted. If that does not work the camera is bad. This adjustment is very sensitive so be sure to recheck in both lighted and dark before remountin it.

what you are trying to do is hard, hard, hard..especially when those type (RJ11) camera's are cheap. You could buy a decent "standard" camera and be happier.................... yes you can pull the video from with RG, but, the wiring will be interesting to say the least. I'd use a RJ11 telephone block to convert to RG. SYNC was/is used to litteraly SYNC the camera(s) into the monitor/DVR system, especially when used with switching equipment. In the old days the switchers "fliped" from one camera to the next and had issues with the video not sync'n properly which resulted in a"squiggle" type video. Sync was used to align the video signal with equipment connected. ASSume nothing........get the manual and figure out the connections FIRST or you will blow it up.

make sure you have enough mA.you stated 400 for all? that maybe too low for all 3 camera's and the loss you'll get on that cable. as far as the best method of splitting, combining? 18guage is recommended for power. I would run one length and connect them as need along that length. KISS, as you cable run is not that long anyway. more wire always adds up to more resistance/load.

you should be ok....................if you run into problems you'll need to ground the shielded end(s) of the RG59................only to the DVR ground. Never ground the distan end of any camera or cable........always ground it back to the DVR common. If you "think" you have to ground at distant end, use a cheap UPS/APC for the power source and that usually gets rid of any Ground Loop problems.

you can go low with a eclipse system, camera's and all. I'd use the HIM-598 on outdoor and highres domes in................ DVR.......be careful of cheap as it will cost you in terms of quality and ease of use...................and basic ability to view/copy video. DVR? test drive or DEMO it BEFORE you buy it.

i went thru the same thing...and then some. they sell fast and dodge the calls as if you never called them..... too bad, becasue Mose is supposed to be the good guy and is most responsible for the bs to begin with. it is what it is......

ok, first, if you have a router you don't need any firewall protection on any computer behind it as the router firewall will protect your LAN. Yes you can have it for added protection if you feel you need it but I don't use it on any of mine since it is redundant. (and for those who feel strongly to have it I suggest that if a person is good enough to hack past your router that the software firewall is only a speed bump anyways) port forwarding should be used.DO NOT turn off the router firewall, and if you do it is only to test. turning off firewalls opens you all attacks from the WAN (internet) If you are getting to the login page of the server then you are passing the firewall. BUT, what login screen are you talking about? The DVR software login or a Microsoft login? BIG difference......if it is the Microsoft then your DVR WEB site is not the default WEB site...............and you need to fix that? good luck.

i then replaced the dvr with a eneo this to date is working fine no problems, i think the problem is power related, anybody have any ideas on how i can fix this. I think you did fix it?

faster acess times.specs

check on some hunting camera's.................basically they are still photograph camera's that snap pics when motion is sensed. big chessy game hunters use them to ambush, I mean hunt.........real Hunters go hunting. Anyway, these things (I've never seen one or know where to get one) operate on batteries and are easily hidden, safeguarded. Maybe the answer you need to catch the little buggers.

check the camera at the installed location with a small monitor...does it show the snow? or, upull it down and check indoors.........at night, lights on/off, with a monitor............indooors you should get enough reflection from the IR to "se" it on the monitor.............it will light your face up pretty good! also, look at the IR luminators with the lights off.....you should be able to see a faint red glow.if not, your IR is burnt and the snowy picture is a result of no IR reflection. good luck.

sometime tis happens when you have a switcher in the mix and the "flipping" on the switcher equipment can cause a slight feed back onto the recorder equipment................kinda like a "zap" only it is a unbalancing of the video line casued by that same like "zap". Disconnect one thing a a time (camer'as included) and reduce your "services" to see if you have any improvements or changes. Another "trick" is to got the breaker box and turn off circuits one at a time to see the difference. You'll need a decent UPS/APC that will carry the load until you are done..........................but this works in finding electrical noise sources............once you narraw it down to a circuit ou can work the further using common sense. r u getting it on te network view also? Or just monitor? Again, disconnect and test.......

lights, cameras, action! mine fileds work pretty good too.

fider is going to push you beyond other competitors. CAT5 is the best way to go, just make sure you use active baluns in your quote as they provide the best video. Why house the Server in the main building? Just wondering. The coser you get the "Server" to the actio i s best as long as it is protected/secure. You can run the Network via CTA5 to the main building and then use RG on the main install. You'll keep your cost down and will be able to compete. Provide 2 quotes; (1) with the Server in the main and the other with the Server local................provide options upfront so that the client understands your quote as they will compare to others when they get them. Good luck.

get the CM-2........takes the human factor out and provides you with several video checks to help in troubleshooting CCTV. use the test monitor for pic view only and the CM-2 to set focus.

domes have come along way Rory.there are great domes at great prices that do everything a box does................just my simple humble opinion. technology is a great thing.keeps getting better

jsut finished using it to troubleshoot a camera here. Pic developed a weak Ground Loop type wave in it and I took readings at the DVR.........basically the reading sucked. Went to the camera and the readings were good. Retipped the BNC at the camera and the problem disappeared, readings at the DVR were also good. Complaints for the CM-2; - The manual states you can put the meter inline or use a 75ohm terminator. For the money spent, it should have come with the terminator. And don't buy the terminator from the OEM as they wanted $30 for the "calibrated" 75 ohm terminator. I got one from allelectronics for a couple bucks. CM-2 may sell one to you but I had no problems with the cheapoooooo. I'm surprised they don't have a "calibrated" cable set to go with the "calibrated" terminator........seems only right? - Meter needs a field strap or harness. I wrap the main cable around my neck (save all comments) to make sure it does not slip and break.and I alomost dropped it on my first use and I snatched it buy the cables just before it hit the ground......saved it! Anyway, it's obvious who made it never used it in the field. - the meter has a automatic shut-off cycle that is completly to short. Again, the ones who designed it was not on a ladder when he timmed it. It needs to either be extended or needs to be associated with the function knob so that if you are using it whe cycle is reset each time you change modes. It's a total pain to keep punching the "on" button as it will shut off just as your nearing your max reading while focusing....... - Ground Loop measurement........it has a ground loop measurement that requires you to connect a wire to the BNC shell. The connecting "spot" on the CM-2 requires some type of plug I have yet to figure out is. Guess I'll call them and ask hom much this "wire/plug is as I am currently just using extrat wire to do the deed.not very professional and most likely not correct either. BUT, the measurement works great! And again, it should have come with a wire and clip type cable that allows you to connect quickly. Overall the CM-2 is great in my book. The designers have a great product in terms of value but need to work on the products actual application/accessories required to perform it's intended job. Now, if I can just figure out how to have them put this thing in a wrist mount type thingie, like a dives gauge..............that would be cool.

armour domes protect the cams.................. may want to use a PTZ with contact alarms. Owner will get actual PTZ capabilities and during non-use you can have it set for a specific "home" pic and at night it will move to the contact that is tripped to catch that action. box types in obvious protected areas...........

and I spent a few hours yesterday connecting it to the camera's at the installed locations and then at the end of the cable at the DVR. Took readings (sync, luminance, composite, colorburst, focus, ground loop) The differences in my readings were pretty cool, in that I found that some camera's were below the specs which basically explained the obvious problems viewed on the monitor. ie. slightly washed out pic that forced me to adjust video settings to improve. The nice thing was the ability to take readings at the camera and then at the DVR and compare them to identify any problems. Good example is I had one caera that was at specs but on the DVR end the color burts reading was in the dirt...only 2. Pic looked ok but was not perfect. I have not had time to check the cable or connectors but I will today and will let you know if I get theat reading back to specs at the DVR end. I have NOT used it on a UTP yet, but will this week. I did take reading on a 4 camera passive link (CAT5 between 2 passive modules) that has me wondering if these passive boxes are any good as the readings coming out of hte passive connections were terrible according to the required signal levels required at the DVR. The Pics were ok, but again they were not perfect, and I am going to see were the signals are getting killed. In my opinion, if the passives are supposed to be any good the signal levels at the DVR end should NOT be so low. Why, you get what you pay fr, right Rory? Anywho, this thing is opening a new path for me in terms of installing, maintaining, and repairing a CCTV system. I will start taking reading on the camera's BEFORE I install them and if I find a poor spec camera I'll send it back (this makes senses as the camera has to be at specs BEFORE you install) I'll then take readings at the DVR end to document the reading so that any future maintenance issues can be quiclky identified. Most liely I'll create a nice spec checklist by client so that I have it for rercord. If I have someone else do the installs the checklist will ensure that the installer does install to MY specs..it's my company right? Overall I am impressed at what I can use it for. I thought the focus was going to be the only BIG neat thing but now I am seeing that the camera levels required for the DVR equipment to operate perfectly are a significatnt issue when completing the whole system. For the owners/installers out there. You can use this to set a standard for your installs. It will only reflect on the quality we all want to provide. I'll get back to ya'll on the UTP thing. The passive signal loss is my concern right now.

ends of.............light at center will agument

I think I saw a putty cat...................I did, I did, I did................... knee slapper eh?

any light, back light, or light reflected. ie. a storage room with a garage door that is opened and closed or remains opened......the light coming thru that garage door creates the problem. Solution; mount the camera higher than the top part of the door and set dips/osd's properly to compensate for the changes. ie. light at night that reflects off of the housing lense or dome cover that creates a halo effect. solution, mount in an area that eliminates reduces the reflection. ie. ir reflection. solution, take the sun guard off. and the number #1...clean the freak'n camera and/or enclosure. Light reflects MORE when it 's dirty. I guess I'm trying to say that if you don't anticipate the problem of light issues (natural or man made) you will have to live with the problem or reinstall. Most time this problems is not a big issue as I have not seen it all that much. Light is my friend in my world of camera's

use one of those cheap dusters..................swifer duster, purchase the extendable wand....found in grocery store cleaning supplies. works great for a quick swipe to get rid of the spider webs. anyothe rcleaning requires a ladder, lint free cloth, and alcohol.........I keep my cloth in a zip lock........dust it first then detail the lense.

used it again today and wow'd the client....................just one camera replaced but as it compared to the others installed by a well known company here it made them look cheaper....... it's very odd to connect this meter into a camera without any monitor and adjust it until the meter pegs and then disconnect it............and when I look at the pic I find myself trying to find a flaw in the focus vice tryig to justify that it is as good as it gets because the camera sucks.................

consider using a software tool that reduces the frames. ie. trim 1 frame for every 2. ICRealtime does allow you to run other software so you might use a program like "Delanda" or "RemoveFiles" to archive it on a RAID type server. I have 6 PC Based Servers running 65 camera's (3 IP's) at 640x480 motion. The originasl video is stored on the PC/Server, but is archived every night to a network drive...trimmed 1 for every 2. The network storage required for 30 days is at 1 Tb. These Servers are recording a very busy 8 - 5 public goverment area 24/7. If ICRealtime can be accessed from another PC/Server and seen as a "hard drive" or netwrk drive the problem is not that hard to do. it might be worth it to custome built the ICRealtime with a loop out to a PC based so that you can deliver both without too much bs. run the camera's into a patch panel and then loop to the ICRealtime and the PC based.......allow the ICRealtime to be the client interface and the PC based to handle the storage..........I believe a Dell SC830 with removable RAID would do the trick. Load the SC830 with a few hot swapable Tb and replace them every 3-4 months. You can even use a KVM for the monitor to save space/money. If you try to get the ICRealtime or any other DVR to handle this your going to have one to many eggs in one basket? Seperate and conquer. If all else fails, call NASA and ask them how they store all thier crap while in space.......... ha ha ha