VST_Man

I'm going..............Venetian bound...........just expo'n...gambling

can't, don't have to divorce if you ain't married!!!

D- & D+ (data) are the connections you use to hook up the PTZ control. Your PTZ should have the same like - & + on it's wiring. Your PTZ should also have a PTZ port or camera # which is dip switch settable. Set it to #1. If there is a terminate setting set it to terminate. Protocol should be set the same on the camera and the software; Pelco D is the norm. Baud rate; set to the lowest rate your camera can handle...2400 is the norm. On the software side you would set your RS port to the serial port you have it connected to; 1 or 2. After that it's all click and move. The above represents the usual settings so if you have anything that does not match up to the above ask before you guess. I'm not familar with your camera so don't go connecting before you are sure of the connections as they are marked...

you may be able to use a diplexor................I used them to add video over a cable network. have not done that in awhile.......

The Hawking directional antenna comes with a short extension cable so your 20ft. is a no go. These cables are short so that there is no signal loss. attach the directional antenna's to the outside of the buildings, then pass the cable thru the wall and connect directly to the router and access point.........at both ends. run power to them. BUT, I'd try activating it all thru the walls first....as long as the walls are not metal construction..if nogo then then you'll have to mount antenna's outside. I did this without any problems; distance was 300ft, anntennas were indoors (one on a window ledge inside and the other was in the computer room and shot thru the wall/brick...no windows) it worked very good. speed was also ok. DVR is connected to the access point via RJ45 UTP network cable....CAT5 type. and you can run that cable upto 300ft. Then access point to directional antenna (make sure the router and access point antenna's are removeable types......some are directly cabled) not that hard to do! keep the directional antenna's close to the router/access point due to cable length limits................run all cables to them. you can even mount in the attic if it does not get too hot. oh, set this ALL up in one room and get it working BEFORE you extend it out...................you don't havce to bring the DVR in, just the networking equipment..get it all green and happy first.....right out of the box, then swap out 1 antenna at a time to make sure they work..........when done just unplug and move to the buildings................good luck. please post your results when you get it up and running...I'd even like to see it if ya don't mind. http://http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16833164155 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16833127138 http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.asp?Item=N82E16833127143

on the cheap side I would get (1) Netgear wireless router and a Netgear access point. And then I would get (2) Hawking direction high gain antenna's. Access point will communicate with the router and the DVR will connect to the Access point via RJ45 cable. That will work! I have pushed this equipment to 300ft. plus INDOORS to INDOORS, so if you mount the antenna outside (comes with a 3ft. cable) you should be able to hit 400ft easy. On the router side you would use your PC to view it all

consider a indoor PTZ as the interior camera. you'd then be able to readjust as required, and follow any action from behind the scenes. also look at a text overlay for the registers as it will provide you with detailed info. just connect to your registers and it will display the resgister output over the video as it happens. works good. you did not mention any audio but I'd recommend it for your office also. just don't tell anyone you have audio and do not lead anyone to believe that you do.....but it's your biz so I'd be protecting it with all the cool tools.

time will tell.....like everything else. I plan on getting a 8 channel next week and I will post my results on it. I consider myself to be fair and honest and my opinion will be accurate without bias. I'm working on pricing right now and once that is settled I will order it to test. I am looking for a solid standalone for installs and sales.

ok, that link maybe works but the "FileFactory" process(s) of getting there sucks........I went around and around, do this, that, and finally gave up. It's just another way to get people to watch advertisements.............

http://www.pfm.howard.edu/infosys/choosing_correct_cable.pdf

smoke and mirrors.....he has a double, partner, or a Wife that reads his email.

he is already scanning the ID's when they enter..........camera's add/support activity in bar. If he has already used the system to identify and collect, all he's after now is a better pic.

BUT, I've noticed that when it is set higher I actually get more recorded/viewed pic. If you look at the sides of the pic it actually opens up a bit on the higher. I used 640x480 only becasue it is more a standard size than the higher.

don't buy any extra's...................replace them as required (warranty runs out). newer, better cams come out all the time.

use 1/4 inch plywood cut to the same width of the ceiling tile. depending on the weight, cut the length. pull tile down, match-up plywood with tile, drill a 3/4" hole for the wires. attach dome base...pull wires thru, screw thru tile into wood. connect/replace tile. if you need to view adjustment live just open tile next to it and connect it....unless dome has a internal connection like mine. if dome is extremely heavy, use eye screw and wire to support from above.

possibly the controller got "zapped" when the wires were cut and that caused the controller to short out and it is now causing the problems you have. Try another controller.......

I'm testing a Vitek luminator right now. 60 degree beam. 115vac. It easily lites up an area 30x40. I'm also considering the extreme 100.........Rory? Any tips on the 100 as compared to the 500? I'd prefer DC power if possible.

just leave the door open.....

and, try the camera connected directly into the DVR............if it still wacks out then you know it is a camera problem. r u sure the power is GOOD? test with a multimeter.

I vote pole in the ground..........BUT, why a PTZ there? PTZ have zoooooooom

I'm looking for software to run on a network that will delete/purge files based on date/time. So far I have looked at Delander as a possible but would like to know if anyone else can recommend. The issue I am trying to resolve is stopping the Archived Video drive space from exceeding the allotted space (when this happens the archiving stops due to drive space is full) Thanks,

Rory, tnx. I'm looking to dele files from folders, subfolders, based on older than date/time. I will use it to keep the network folder/subs from filling up the network storage drive......once that happens the daily archiving stops due to a full drive..........I'm ok with it just cleaning up older dates/times as they are nolonger required past a certain date anyway. I'll check it out, and thanks. oh, will this autoboot on daily reboots? Or do it via the scheduler? I want this to run daily and automatically.

another issue with IP cams is network traffic...........you can bottleneck your LAN quick with a few IP cams running wide open.

buy a router/switch.....turn off XP Firewall and/or get ride of all software firewalls. your asking the server to be a router and it is not designed to be one. a router/switch will allow to to administer the routing off the server.

wire the monitors in a series and monitor out of the DVR.............should be ok on all with no amplifier, but, if you need one you'll know, and you may only have to put a simple single one in.