VST_Man

video goggles, $200, flip up and down, LCD, , belt rechargable battery, work great..and in color

are the connectors at the dvr touching? if so, black tape them are all camera's powered from same location? i found that gl is produced when you power at dvr location and out to seperate buildings. may not be your cause but what i did was power them at the buldings.....solved the gl prob. BEST gl isolator's are active baluns............believe it or not. i installed gl's and the problem moved so I went with actives and the gl disapeared. just some idea's. when it comes to gl the book is a starting point but the actual fix can be simple and/or even against normal gl rules of enguagement

i suggest you put on some gloves and spend some time with your installers (all day, not just a coffe cup visit). i mean attach yours to the smart guy and have him tell you what to do. You'l not only learn the ropes but you'll earn some respect.....which will open doors for you later. Eveen if you have to use vacation time, do it. and then go home and surf til Rory says you can sleep. Otherwise you'll never pass his test........ ps...nothing sucks more than having a sales person promise things that cannot be done all because that person does not understand the working end of the "tool".

call juan at 1-888-422-8826. pm me for the price i paid

as long as you have all your camera's rated to the power supply output your fine, but I know most cams are 12vdc +/- a small percentage and do not go beyond 12.5 vdc..................I would not use it myself. other than to power the camera that specifically states it van handle it. powersupplies do not exceed the 12vdc margin and most are not adjustable. I don't have any other link for the distro box. I know it works............

I don't see the fuses? I see the capacitors, resistors, diodes, switch, but no fuses? are you talking about the tan round (capacitor looking) slotted 1 thru 9? If so, those are most likely fuses that reset on thier own and you don't have to solder anything unless they go completely bad. the 13.55 vdc is not good for your camera's. 12vdc camera's have a +/- tolerance and it usually does not push into the teens. you want a solid 12vdc at the end of the camera's. You might consider one of these as I have used them without any problems. It's a PIDB-1224-ACDC box with a 2.1mm female input plug. you can then input from any 12vdc 3 amp type power supply that has a 2.1 male end. this box will distribute 12vdc or 24vac via 9 fused outputs....fuses reset when triped. i use this for 2 or 3 camera installs that are remoted from the main buildings and indoors. neat little box. ie. running 3 IR bullets via a 3amp 12vdc plugin, plugged into a small APC for bpower backup. works pretty good. http://www.pimfg.com/CAT/Fall2003W/PDF/101.pdf and i get my cheap power supplies from eclipse. they work great and i have not had any issues with them to date.

a few things to mention are obvious and yet hard to find in most wholeslaers out there; great tech support, great product, and RESPECTFUL & PROFESSIONAL interaction with you. I've got a short list of those who are professional based on my personal experiences in dealing day in and out with them. Once they forget who writes the checks I stop spending my money on them. equipment in general is easy to find. it's the people behind the product that makes the difference for me.

experience and low light lenses/CCD. sounds like your lense/CCD is not good for that low light setting, that's why you are getting a dark bluish pic...camera is trying. did you try the camera dip swithches if it has any? light meter? don't use them never will. you see, if the area being surveyed is usually dark, ie. a bar, then I'd recomend some low light B&W camera's that will present the best pic. You can buy color but would be waiting your money since that type of erea is normally B&W anyway so why fight the issue of color camera's..just buy them B&W with low light, high res. good luck

Video Insight IP software does..........call Thomas

another way is to terminate the active balun BEFORE it enters the light pole.......RG-59 the rest of the way to the camera. RG-59 is better suited to "ignor" crosstalk/noise........................just an idea?

i've had problems with msi boards before so i stopped using them. soyo is the same for me.junk

are you trying to do a live video show/movie with ptz control? what takes that fps you need? just thinking............ I'm workin on a project for a california type audio/video studio where the PC controls the ptz's. only issue I am wondering on is the quality camera available. I'll need to mount the studio quality camera to the PTZ base. From there it should be easy. Video feeds goto the recorder and live monitors. No "person" is required to work the cam's, just one quick moused fella.

someone else on this forum used a shielded RG cable that ran inside a PVC underground and ended up ground the shielding out both ends of the RG. produced decent results. you should be able to use a shielded CAT5 cable and do the same. NVT is good stuff. I've tested the cheaper actives (foresight & eclipse) and they also do fine, but, if you have not quoted it yet get NVT or equal as it is the best. nice thing about NVT is that you only need power on the receiver end. you can try to mix and match passive with active....ie; put active on the DVR end and passive on the camera end.......works! may want to make sure you also have ground loop built into the baluns......

system will work with a VJ60, only restriction is going to be the "60" total camera fps. I ran a VJ60 on a intel 2.5, 13 camera's at 640x480, fps per camera was set at 4 to 5 and it worked fine. Call Thomas at Video Insight to get a better handle on your A or D question. There is some confusioin as to what a analoge or digital signal truely is. A signal is anaolg if it 's output signal is a signwave frequency. This same camera can have digital processing onboard but it is still a anaolge camera based on the signal output. digital is a high or low voltage which represents a input signal (camera lense and board electronics) and is combined in multiple digital signals as a signal (video) output.

no. the goggles actually hang in front of your eyes and you can look past or around them to keep your balance. they also flip up like a welders mask if you want. The fact that I can adjust without glare or fumbling with a screen is very nice.

I just order a set of video goggles to try on my installs. I currently use a small DVD player to set camera's up and have always been annoyed by position, sunlight, and all sorts of things when setting up a camera. Has anyone tried this yet? I know technology did not afford a decent set of goggles for the money for installs but now they have become affordable and provide a nice pic. The type I ordered are the V-490 Virtual VIDEO HMD GOGGLES. They flip up and come with a recharable battery pack. Many RC fliers use them to pilot, reviews looked good so I thought it would be nice to have a hands free and light controlled viewer to use in setting a camera. Will post my results once I get it broke in.

1. Since I don't know the exact place to put my cameras on yet, I think I will wire CCTV 5 cables for each floor and 2 cables at chimney. Each cable will have 2 outlets to connect a camera (one for spare) Is this a good idea? only thing that bother me here is why a chimney cams? ever hear of a smoke detector and a good annual chimney cleaning? depends on the cable used. RG.nope, one camera signal per cable. UTP (CAT5) can pass 4 video if you power the camers at each camera location, or floor. If you plan on powering the camera's via the cable I'd recommend using Hub's. 2. If so, I do need (5 cables x 5 floors) + 4 cables = 29 cables. Can we simutaneously run more than one camera from a cable? 3. How long do I need (cable)? you can only anwer this................ 4. What cable should I buy? I have read this forum, several ppl suggest Siamese cable RG 59/u. Is this cable reasonable to my case. depends on the cable length. RG-59 is better ue=sed for 200ft. or shorter. UTP (CAT5) cable is for longer length's. You can use a combination of both via HUBs (recommend active HUBs). Ok, here is how I would do it; 5 Floors x 5 camera's (all less than 200ft. cable runs); run (5) RG-59 siamese cables to each floor, power in one location, at the DVR, 5 Floors x 5 camera's (all more than 200ft.) run 5 UTP cables per floor (stuff is cheap) and use active baluns with power pass thru. you did not mention PTZ but the 5 UTP cables per floor will handle anything you can hang. DVR...would go with a 3.2 Dual core intel, 80 Gb OS drive, 500Gb storage, Video Insight VJ240 16 cam with a 32 camera card extension. as far a camera locations.....................have fun.

ok, I've had them for 4 weeks and used them on all camera installs and I like them. The nice part is the battery pack attaches to your belt and I have not yet recharged it...keeps on going! The other nice part is that I have both hands to use in setting the camera up while looking at the pic.

cards come with software. you can build the Server on your own...XP Pro camera's? you need to define your requirements. ie..... - outdoor? - IR needed...recomend going with motion lighting "before" you buy IR. - varifocal? - low light/night vision capable - dome, bullet, box? - AC or DC - color or B&W? - resolution? I recommend high resolution on all. The rest of the above requires your input based on actual install conditions and view you need to capture. Make sure if you go with any color outdoor that it has a mechanical filter. As far as only 8 Camera's? Buy a 16 capable card so you have room to grow..and you will you can save money by bulding the Server but the warranty work is on you. Depends on how much you savor your time..........if you have Server problems. Build the Server "larger" than you calculate. ie. if you think you need a 2.8 intel build a 3.4. ie. calc your hard drive storage and then add a bit more. motherboard video works but if you can go with a PICe.....will save resources for the Video - AND, it is a Server, not a PC. Treat it as such. Don't multi it out for surfing the WEB, email, ect. You'll bog it down with bs and open it to more virus pop up crap.

2 choices. Stand alone or PC based DVR. I recommend http://www.video-insight.com Thomas, on this Forum, can help you with Video Insight as he works there as the sales rep. I am an installer/dealer in SC and I use the Video Insight card as my "star performer". The Video Insight card will do what you want and more. X10 is cheap and you are wise to research before spending the money. If you need help PM me or contact Thomas.

speaking of the tree.......what are you going to do when the leaves fill the screen?

resolution is higher on the right.

when I install PVC I do it because the customer is on the cheap and wants "video" on the cheap. I present the customer with several options....low, medium, high, and crazy. I already know they have a quote for high. I can beat that by cut'n corners and delivering. I put it all on the table and the customer makes the choice, not me. I just want the install. professional thieves are smart in one area. they usually hit a "soft target" before they hit a "hard target". if the hard target has video or alarms they usually go down the road. The DUMB (drugged, drunk, or stupid) thief hits targets or opportunity with little reguard for anything. They just want something. cabling, all and any, can be beat. I think what most clients I have really want is the peace of mind, or the ability to pass that peace of mind to it's customers. one of my best techniques is to be honest and sell/plan a breakin by a professional. ie. remote the video storage, dummy recorders out in the open, lock boxes that work, hidden camera's, ect. And my job is to provide a "system" that works as required. nothing worse than having a system "not record" when needed, and if it does you can't tell who is who because it is out of focus, cheap cams, poor quality, ect.

why 480? unless you require the 480fps your wasting your money. most likely you only need a 120 because you'll get pretty good video at 7fps per cam @ 16 cams. if you need 32 cams, go with a 240fps. The 480 (if you use the total fps) will require a pretty strong CPU Server combo. Miniums are listed but I can tell you that if your are running 16 cams at 640x480 or higher you'll need a dual core with some butt. AND your going to need a terra for storage. Most beginers think that bigger is better quality...........and it is, but what you don't realize it that you don't need it. I could run a 60fps card with 10 cams at 640x480 and get decent video. My DEMO is a "old" Dell 2.5Ghz with a 60fps in it and it works fine for show and tell. Oh, to answer the question. I won't because I am a Video Insight retailer. One reason why I went with Video Insight was because the total product, support included, was the best available for the money spent. You have to make your decision on what is better based on how much you got to spend and what you get, in terms of features in software and available QUALITY technical support,. Thomas, at VI, or can help you detail these out if you need help on the VI features. I can also help you but I am more geared for the coorporate market.

- does it do it without the card installed? If not then you have a hardware problem. - test it with someof the ram removed/replaced. - is power supply large enough for this build? - try resetting bios. - unplug/remove all unnecessary cards, RAM, ect. and reboot. - try a different video card? - check mb for bent pins on hard drive/floppy, connectors in general. also check to make sure your power connectors are fully inserted/connected (look at metal pins to ensure all are pushed in) - master slave settings on hard drives & CD/DVD drives? - is software loading 1`00% perfect? or is is refusing to load any files during the load. ie. did you skip any files due to "errors"? if so, clean or replace the CD/DVD you most likely have a hardware problem. process of elimination will help you find it.