VST_Man

Linksys

Anyone have a good idea or source of supply for a good cable/wire lable kit? Thanks,

Video Insight also uses watermark.........

UTP quality is good as long as the Balun you use is decent. Which is better? Each has it's pro's and con's. Do a search and read, read, read. I believe that UTP is better, according to this forum and the posts I have read to date.

Thomas??? How close are you to IP control via VideoInsight software? You told me that VI software was close to adding several manufactures (AXIS, DLINK, ect) IP camera's. Can you jump in and explain VI's package. Mordimer....I'm a Video Insight warrior, which is a PC Based Video Server that is full of features and fun. I'm very happy to this point with VI.

I have experience with the DCS5300W. Fair quaility, decent wireless range, and worked well. It is all plastic and non-weather. One problem I ran into was after I got it I wanted to integrate it into other WEB Servers and realized that I was stuck with Dlink's software...only. If you are looking for something that works and is moderately priced, Dlink works well. If your looking at integrating and adding more down the road, take a look at the big picture now and build bacwards from there. You may want to buy more expensive now, which will allow for you to integrate all later. The router you link to will also play a large part in how well it works. I'm for Lynksys as I found it is faster and smarter. There are some decent PTZ with digital zoom out there that are wired but work great, for approx. $420.00. My DCS5300w is now on the shelf waiting for the appropriate install. ie. baby monitor. Audio; it is ilegal to record audio without the consent of.

Data or communications cables can be installed in most buildings without metal protection, but a specialized plenum rating is required for installation in ceiling and floor plenums. Plenum-rated, a term used describe Ethernet cable that has slow-burning, fire-resistant casing that emits little smoke. Plenum-rated Ethernet cable is used in overhead ductwork.

I'd say the cable is bad..........return it for a new one. And/or, consider making your own cables. You can get the connectors and tools need on-line and after making a few you can say your good at it. When I first started out I learned the hard way and ended up replacing ALL the cheap cable with good quailty RG-59 Siamese or good UTP with Balun's. There are no short cuts or savings in cheap cable. If you can, move the power supply closer and power with a seperate cable until you get it right?

Are you using the cheap premade cable or did you use RG/UTP? The cheap cable is nothing more than that. Replace the cable with good cable or move the power supply closer to the camera.....if possible? First check the power at the end of the cable. If good, then the video side of your cable is bad. If you put your own connectors on, recheck them or retip them. I've also had success with using a larger adjustable power supply, like a 12vdc 6 amp......but those are costly and do not fix the problem. Use only as a temp fix. Good luck.

PC based sysstems require more knowledge of PC operating systems than a "stand-alone" DVR. There are pro's and con's for both. It depend on how much you want to devote to administering a "system". Stand alone is pretty much hands off, outside reviewing video. PC Based is 5 times more operator intense, but, the flexability of a PC based system, better motion detection, easier file transfers/archives, ect. I recommend it like this; if your "geek", get a PC Based system. If you have trouble programing your VCR, get a stand alone system. As with everything else, better quality equals more money spent. I suggest reading everything you can in this forum to get an idea on what the differences are before you spend any money. And of course, if you allow a professional to recommend and install, all you need to worry about is enjoying the view.

FredB........what is the WEB site address for ProVideo? Thanks

It is a good read Rory. He has a unique way of relating the reality of War and what he lived into a well written article. As a recently Retired Marine, I can also relate to his anology of the Marine Wife/rank. Made me laugh! To comment on what "we" can say or not.....I can tell you that the Military I served in allows the same freedom of speech that it protects. The reason why "we" serve and is to ensure and protect EVERYONE's freedom(s). That boy/girl we sent to War returned a changed Man/Woman. War is not pretty or fair. The difference between us and them is "we" come from a Historic system of values that allow freedom(s) for all. I'm so thankful for where I came from and who now leads the way. And as you can tell, a very proud member of!

you should be able to change the fuses to a 2 amp and only use two of the four outputs (assuming you have only one AC transformer in the PS) If the PS is rated at 4 amps, that's all your going to get from it. Total all of your amp draws and do not exceed. ANTDICKENS is right, you going to pull at 100% which will be a factor in how efficient the PS works. Good luck.

In addition to this, consider the statement "obvious" camera's make and any sign's placed to remind them that they are being video taped. Thieves will bypass harder targets when they know they are being taped. License plate video technology maybe nice to have but maybe not necessary? I'd broadcast it loud and clear to all so that everyone who comes onto the property knows they are being watched, taped.

They should send ya a t-shirt Thomas!!! Or maybe a pocket protector

Edit "hosts" file to ensure you have the IP address of ALL your IP's listed. Tell me how that works out. Also, what is the baud rate of the RS-485/DVR? Run a ping test. Is there a delay when you use the DVR to control the PTZ? What kind of Router are you using? As far as "cheap" Routers go, I tested out a few and found that all but the linksys are slow at handling multiple requests at the same time. Go straight into the DVR, bypass the router/switch to see if your speed increases.

You are stuck with the delay caused by the distances the signals travel. Even the big boys with lots of band width have to wait!!!

IR lighting, as focused from inside the bullet housing, is more intense, much like a flashlight, and can produce the halo effect as I call it. The rated distance, type of led, housing, plays a lot in the amount of ir light emitted. If using a more expensive camera like mentioned above you get more effiecency from the lense, lens cover, and therefore amount of ir needed becomes less. ie; a exhad beats that heck out of a CCD hands down, and add some ir to that and you get much more. ps...I'm not expert on ir but have many years of playing with ir in the military. Use a set of ir goggles and take a look at the light pattern produced from a cheap ir camera compared to that of a decent one also. You can see the difference. I'm with you in terms of what the customer needs and wants. If you explain the pros and cons of cheap and expensive and then they still want the cheap.......ok, it's on them, and you will be called back to replace those bullets sooner than later anyway. I've also seen the type of lens effect the IR. I have 2 nice ir outdoor camera's with 150ft. ir capability; they came with a cheap plastic lense that produced a halo effect at night. I cleaned the lenses, replaced the rubber tubes, ect with no effect. But, once I took the lense off it was like a switch was thrown and all that smoke was gone. I finally went a started having the lenses repaed with a decent nonreflective glass lens and I have a much better pic at night. Try taking off the lens cover and "lighting" it up at night. You maybe surprised at the result? If removing the lens cover improves it you either have to clean it or get a lens replacement that works better. Your local glass shop can help you out. My advice; explain the pro's and con's and llow the customer to make the decision.

I use the 3m splice connector. Slip in the wires and squeeze them closed with the pliers (stripping of the insulation from the wire maybe necessary but not hard). 3m also provides a self-sealing jel inside the connector that protects the connection once it is snapped closed. No solder, tape, hassle. Goto http://www.allelectronics.com,%20search%20for%20the%20splice%20connector.....they%20sell%202%20different%20types.%20I've%20had%20np's%20with%20their%20products.

herminshs.....PM'd ya....

Herminshs..why do you post with no price? Nothing worse than a tease to get to the bottom dollar?

CCTVINSTALLER hit it on the head. And you will become very good at PC's and what makes them tick faster, but once you get past the learning curve you be ok. Biggest issue I see is the valunerability of the PC based system compared to the standalone. But if you use a decent firewall and paswords you should be ok. DO NOT use the Server for anything but your Video Server. Some have a thing for loading all sorts of programs on servers and then wonder why they crap out or get a virus? I use the VideoInsight cards and have been impressed with the nice features. Stand alones are for the average, PC based for the technically starved! Match the card to the CPU and keep it cool.

I would not go beyond 200ft on GR-59, especially if you are doing it on a CPU/DVR based system. Some say further, but, problems may pop in and out if you do. You can use CAT5/UTP with a Balun, but, you need to weatherproof the Balun. UTP can go that distance and more. Also, consider this option; look at using a 35mm lense to cover the long distance shots. Goto http://www.cctvimports.com/html/home.html%20and%20look%20under%20Camera's,%20Infared.%20Consider%20the%203103,%2070CPH35,%20and%20the%2070CPH.%20The%2035mm%20will%20take%20a%202ft.%20by%202ft.%20sign%20at%20100ft.%20and%20fill%20the%20screen.%20Use%20this%20to%20cover%20a%20garage,%20trailer,%20tractor,%20car,%20truck,%20ect.,%20from%20a%20distance%20without%20having%20to%20run%20150ft%20of%20cable.%20May%20save%20you%20on%20those%20cable%20runs?%20The%203103%20is%20cheap%20and%20works%20perfectly%20for%20those%20general%20areas.%20The%2070CPH%20is%20the%20boss%20for%20the%20money.

How much are you paying for them? Do they have a demo site to view them at? Asking here is a good way to eliminate the junk. I am not familiar with these camera's, so, if you do buy please post a reply on how they work out. Some quit tips; - get a decent power supply with enough amps to carry all your camera's. One that has "sync". Figure out your total amperage and then make sure you have enough amps. From what you are trying to view (100ft. front yard/road, back yard) You going to go beyond the basic 12 LED (usually 30ft. viewing) camera. - cable...buy good cable (RG-59 siamese) and apply your ends. Do not purchase the premade as they tend to be cheap. - test and clean the camera lenses before you mount them. Do not open them to clean the inside UNTIL you are past the warranty period! - plan your cable runs to avoid ALL other electrical cables. Observe a 1ft distance to be safe. - Home Depot sells a nice package of electrical cable hangers. Use them in the attic, they work great!!! They look like a bent plastic pitch fork end, size of the palm of yor hand, holds multiple cables. - mount camera'where you can get at them. Removing spider webs, cleaning, and replacing will be a challenge. My guess is that the cameras you list above will work in a smaller area (30 ft. night viewing) than you need. Lighting up an area out at 100ft. may call for a better camera. Most home owners need a large viewing area close to the home. Specific needs require specific camera's, more money. Good luck.

I need the dip swith settings for th EXCDN56 camera. The dip switches are on the underside of the circuit boards, inside the case. Thanks.