rossko

This sort of thing http://www.map-security.com/hikvision-hybrid-dvr-up-to-8-analogue-cameras-8-ip-cameras-ds-7608hi-st.html

.... because of the data compression. The more change (cloud cover etc.) the more data

Ethernet cables are limited to 100m, coax (good quality!) will go further. A halfway house is to use baluns, which convert a coax signal onto cheaper cat-5/6 cables (and back again). This isn't ethernet but uses the same type of cable. That's likely to be the best solution for that length of run. https://www.quora.com/What-should-be-the-maximum-distance-between-a-CCTV-camera-to-monitor-by-coaxial-cable If you do not have local power supplies, the solution is to run your camera power over thick cables. The longer the run, the thicker the cable to avoid voltage drop. The higher the voltage to start with, the more voltage drop you can bear (and so use thinner, cheaper cable). I'm guessing you want to avoid running mains cable along the fence etc. So using commercial grade cameras that take a 24VAC supply (rather than domestic 12V types) would be a good start. Most camera manuals include a guide to cable gauge and distance. With multiple cameras, it might prove cheaper/simpler to run individual cables than try to power them all over one fat cable. You'll probably need to think about power for IR illuminators as well.

Are you able to mess with the antenna on your camera model? You might try out using directional WiFi antenna at one camera quite cheaply. If you do need to put an outdoor WiFi AP on your chimney, you'd need one with Omni (all directions) antenna I'm guessing? it would probably pay to invest in something good here, as you would get side benefits of improved coverage around your yard for smartphones, one day smart tractors(?) etc. Wireless extenders mess up because they effectively listen one way / transmit the other way in turn, adding delay. An AP (Access Point) connects via wire back to your router. If you have a DVR, you may need to configure it to look for cameras on the wired network (if it isn't already).

VGA to composite video converter http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Laptop-PC-VGA-to-TV-AV-LCD-RCA-S-Video-Signal-Adapter-Converter-Box-Video-Cable-/401185547533 very cheap, VGA feeds through to local monitor, RG59 coax can be run to remote repeater monitor. Picture quality is not brilliant, what do you expect for peanuts. Cheap enough to try out and replace with higher quality unit if wanted.

Look for RJ45 crimping kit, and have a few practice attempts.

I suspect you worry over nothing. Check your camera and DVR specifications to see what they will accept as a nominal 12V. If you must have a voltage dropper, use a BY550 or similar diode in series, it will drop a 0.6 volt or so. Don't mess with resistors, won't work (just as you have found).

Does the camera share the power supply with the illuminator? I'm suspicious that the illuminator load is causing voltage to droop and camera to reset.

From the docs, HDSA00N1 is an "scan" unit, meaning a camera in a pan-tilt mount. This one is NTSC video format, good if you are in north america. That scan unit may be fitted into a dome supporting "conventional" wiring, or fitted into a dome supporting IP wiring - this last branded "VIP" by Honeywell HDT0W00D is just such a VIP dome, trailing D standing for Digital. This dome may well also have the "conventional" BNC video and RS-485 control wires as well, but you can use the RJ45 ethernet network connector instead. So when your scan unit is fitted into that VIP dome, you may treat it is an IP camera. I do not think it is a very "modern" IP camera though, so far as I can see the only available format is simple M-JPEG. I reckon you'd need to check any proposed DVR supports that. Perhaps others can add to that. Quite how well the Honeywell PTZ commands over IP might be supported, I don't know. If you do have the BNC/RS485 wires available, it might prove easier in the end to use an analogue DVR? You don't need to use a Honeywell power supply, any 24V AC supply of at least 5A rating (for each dome) will do

Different thought ; so long as recording capacity is reasonable, who cares if it does record you working in the garden? The objective is to record things that might be of interest later (but probably won't be, and will never be looked at). Allowing a few more not-of-interest recordings shouldn't cause any problem. I'd focus on the alerting side, and yes a home automation setup might help here. e.g. alert if PIR triggered while front door is locked, with a snapshot from the cam(s). PIRs have their own false trigger issues; shadows , breezes etc. You may be able to combine PIR alert + video motion alert within a few seconds of each other to produce a reliable alert.

Changing the lens won't stop car theft. Take a step back to work out what you want. Is anybody actually going to look at this stuff? If they are, what would they do about it? Do they need prompting in some way to look live? Or, what do they want to gain from a recording? How can you improve the CCTV cover to facilitate all that? IR coverage of a parking lot is a big (expensive) ask, probably better value to add normal lighting. Consider also coverage of any traffic funnel area e.g. site gateway or access road, its easier than a large area.

If an RS-485 port is provided on an IP camera, it is usually an OUTLET to control external gear. (This makes more sense with a box IP camera, where RS-485 'out' could control a Pan-tilt mounting). The actual control from DVR passes over the IP network. Try disconnecting the RS-485 wires to see if you can still PTZ from DVR.

I suppose there is the possibility that a neighbour has got some "home plugs" (powerline adaptors?) that are interfering with yours. Or some unrelated electrical equipment is generating noise on the power lines.

Rummaging in the Eneo 'discontinued products' portion of the website, your DVR looks very like a DLR4B model https://eneo-security.com/en/dlr4b-04-1-0tbd.html manual is available at https://eneo-security.com/media/assets/manual/205228_en_man.pdf A pic of the rear might help. That model has a factory reset switch on the back, last resort if you cannot find the passcode. The passcode is usually entered using the numbered buttons on the front panel.

Find out about the alarm system configuration. Many can accept an input (from the DVR contacts in this case) on a spare zone, and either sound the alarm only if set, sound the alarm 24hrs (regardless if set or not), or do something else. It's likely to be more flexible and more under the users control than hard-wiring directly to a siren.