mrg99

I just installed 1080P TVI cameras with a Hikvision DS-7208HGHI-SH DVR and like many others, my wish is to be able to view the cameras on my Samsung 'Smart' TV's. The DVR has been successfully integrated into my local network via a cat6 cable to my fios router. Like everyone else, I can access the Hikvision login screen on my TVs by entering the IP address but the screen wants me to install the plugin which, of course, won't install on the Samsung TV. A simple solution would be to hard wire the DVR to the TV's but that is impractical in my situation (multiple TVs on different floors). I'm wondering about an HDMI to TCP converter. I could run the HDMI output on the DVR to the converter and then the Cat6 or 5 output back to my fios router. From the few converters I've seen, they output a static IP. Wouldn't I then be able to enter the IP address of the converter on my Samsung TV's web browser and view the DVR output???

I'd be using it in my own home. Isn't RG6 a pure aluminum braid? Is a pure copper braid that much more effective at shielding the signal?

I have a chance to buy some spools of RG59 Siamese cable at a good price. The center conductor is 20AWG solid copper, the braid is 95% and the power cables are 18AWG stranded 100% copper. The braid is CCA. The cable I normally use is 100% copper braid (all other specs being equal). How concerned should I be about a CCA braid as far a quality over 200' runs ?? Thanks.

With a lot of research and some trial and error, I will share my solution in the event someone else has this problem. The jacket of the direct burial cable (at least the one I'm using) is Flame Retardant PVC (FRPVC) it is a very stiff material, I imagine in the winter it would be almost impossible to manipulate. Several manufacturers sell coax flaring tools for RG6 and RG59 cables, the recommendation is to not exceed 1/8" in depth because the outer jacket could expand to a larger diameter than could fit into the connector - these are mostly recommended for the standard type coax in colder ambient temps. My solution was to first strip the cable using the standard 1/4" - 1/4" tool. Prior to working the braided shield back over the outer jacket, I made two horizontal slits, 180 degrees apart, in the outer jacket starting about 3/8 to 1/2" back and then folding the braid back. Viola! I was able to insert the connector with a minimal amount of effort.

We are using RG59 Siamese direct burial cable on our cable runs and I'm having a real problem using this cable with BNC compression connectors. At first I was using Ideal compression connectors but they are almost impossible to work onto the cable to the proper depth and you can't tell if the center conductor is properly aligned in the connector. Today I tried using a Belden Snap n Seal connector, I like the idea that the center conductor is properly inserted into the pin at the back of the connector (anyone familiar with these connectors knows what I'm talking about). The problem is it's even harder to insert the cable into these connectors to the proper depth...we're talking a good 20 minutes or more of struggling and pushing resulting in very sore fingers after one or two connectors. There's no way an installer could do this all day long! At first I thought it might be the small ridge that is left on the cable jacket after the power cables are separated from the coax so I sanded it down, but it made no difference. The jacket of a direct burial cable is a lot stiffer than a standard cable, so this may be the problem (I was thinking about hitting the cable with a heat gun before inserting it or maybe making a slit along the outer jacket). I'm using the Belden Snap & Seal FSNS59BNCU-25 connectors with an RG59 Siamese Coaxial Cable, Direct Burial, 20AWG Solid BC, 95% BC Braided from Primus Cable. I was wondering if anyone could share a tip or trick to make this easier, it almost impossible to insert the cable to the proper depth, there has to be a better way. Thanks!

Thank you

We've "discovered" the location of the adjustments but there is another question: These cameras are dual voltage (12VDC or 24VAC). Is there a jumper or switch that needs to be set to select the voltage? (there is nothing in the setup menu to select the voltage) or does the camera automatically sense the voltage being applied? Thanks.

Can anyone tell me where the focus & zoom adjustments are on this dome camera? The instruction manual is useless. Thanks in advance

Thank you for your help. It wasn't the fault of the distributor, our people bought the DVR a month or so ago to be compatible with the existing analog cameras but the cameras have been failing so they decided to upgrade them all. We made the camera selection, but no one ever checked to see if the DVR would be compatible. I've decided to use the composite video hook up for now and then I will work on them to upgrade the DVR to TVI, at that point it will just be a matter of changing the BNC connection to the TVI output at the cameras.

Thank you for your response. Lucky for me, I didn't spec the DVR or the cameras. I'm just tasked with installing them Are you familiar with these cameras? Do you know the highest resolution I can get from the CVBS output? I'm wondering if we should take the hit on the DVR (its been in service for a month or so, so we can't return it) and get a DVR that's TVI capable. We could return the cameras for 960H units, but I'm wondering how much resolution would be lost over TVI?

We are in the process of installing some new Speco cameras and a DVR. The cameras are a model HT5940T and offer two BNC outputs. One labeled CVBS and the other TVI. The DVR is a Speco model D8HS. The BNC inputs on the DVR say for 960H cameras. Does this mean I need to use the CVBS outputs from the cameras? Thanks.