C7 in CA

There is actually a whole standard for running Power Over Ethernet, IEEE 802.af. What VST_Man is suggesting is different but should work unless voltage drop becomes a factor. (hence his suggestion to double up on the conductors) Fiber is still the best way to do it. But If I was to go the switch in the middle route I would Use a Linksys POE adaptor kit. This puts the power and data on one cable. Also no concern with reversing polarity with home-made adaptors. The POE addresses voltage drop by injecting 48volts into the cable and then transforming it down to 5 volts at the switch end. The gotcha is the little linksys switches are 7.5 volts. So you would have to use one of the 5 volt devices listed on the Linksys POE page: http://www.linksys.com/products/product.asp?prid=582&scid=38 You need something like the BEFSR41 EtherFast Cable/DSL Router with 10/100 4-Port Switch. You don't need the router part of course. Just plug your cables into switch ports, Not the WAN port.

Well, Fiber is the way to go anyway. If you aren't setup to terminate the fiber yourself you can sub that out or have a cable assembly custom made for your needs. Check out Milestek's custom cable service: http://www.milestek.com/custom/default.asp

Well, I would want to run fiber. But if the client wants to go cheap you can put a small switch in the middle of the run. --Run your first cable out 100m. Plug that into a switch. Then from the switch you can run out another 100m. But that is really not good practice.

You can try this calculator: http://www.qsl.net/kc5gng/antennatool2.html I can't vouch for the accuracy. But anyway, If it's a point to point system you would use a directional antenna at both ends of the link.

Will I be able to fit an NVT Balun inside a WizKid dome?

Thanks for the info guys. If I ran a siamese cable to the dome would that connection be made inside the dome? I am not too thrilled about the idea of mounting a gang box next to the Wizkid. The previous camera at this location was brutilized and a gang box in the loop just makes for a possible point of attack. I could run siamese from the wizkid through a conduit to a more secure location; mount a 4 square box to house the NVT balun. From that point I can use the existing UTP back to the DVR. Would that be a better way of doing it?

Yeah, if I had more then then a couple of holes I might have considered calling in someone to core them out too. I was cabling an office where I had to use surface mounted raceway throughout. It sucked. Flat roof on a slab foundation left raceway as the only affordable solution. Anyway... I was suprised when I was drilling through a number of walls and found 1/4" (or so) lead plates. One huge lead plate within the wall. It actually wasn't bad to punch through with a hole saw. The stuff was kinda malleable. I couldn't for the life of me figure out what all the lead was about. I finally asked and it turns out the place use to be a doctors office. They lead-lined the X-Ray rooms.

Very cool! I may not have seen an ongoing Iview thread where this was discussed, but what are the specs of the PC you are running that card on?

how about a media converter?

3 feet? Ouch! I just did 22 inches through concrete and couldn't imagine 3 feet. SBC (local telco) wanted a 2" conduit through the wall to run one tiny 25pair cable. The funny part is they wanted a pull rope and run of "true tape" to verify the conduit legnth. I asked if I could forgo the true tape since my roll of the stuff was 75 miles away and the run is obviously only 22 inches. Nope the tape was an absolute reqirement the engineer said. "The construction crew will not do the work without it" and yada, yada, yada 40 bucks later I had a roll bought locally. 3 days later I returned to install the phone system. To my dismay the pull rope AND true tape were still tied tight to each end of the conduit just the way I left it. The construction crew simply pushed the cable through the conduit; Just like I would have! What do those engineers know anyway?

The APC that kaysadeya is looking at does have a voltage regulator. They call it something like AVC (Automatic Voltage Control) It also comes with a utility that lets you program the cut-in parameters you want.

I use that exact model (without the add-on battery). I originally bought it to power a big wireless access point, router, and modem. I have since loaded that thing to the hilt. It now acts as backup for AP, 2 linky routers, dsl modem, 2- 5 port linky switches, 3X8 phone system, voice mail, video amp, and video modulator! Dang, I think I should recalculate the draw. Anyway. not many blackouts around here. But we did have a scheduled 1.5 hour outage a while back and it kept all the gear running throughout the outage. But in all fairness, I really only made a few phone calls. The rest of the time the gear just sat there. I picked this model because it's flat. I used telco D-rings to screw it right to the wall at the back of my wall mounted rack. Worked out great! As a matter of fact. I'm moving a phone system into a tight space and will switchout their boxy APC for this flat model. I'm going to mount it flat to the wall just like at the house here.

Dang. You must be living in a third world country or something... Sonic gives 4 statics with most DSL circuits. The 8 I have comes with the "Enhanced" plan I'm on.

Thanks I probably should have worded that better. True I'm paying for 6.0/508 adsl. But (around here anyway) adsl is a best effort service. So actually what is offered is 1.5-6.0/384-608 So in theory they are delivering what was promised even if I only get 1.5/384. The total throughput is affected by the condition of the copper and distance of the loop. So considering I am in an older neighborhood and 10 thousand feet from the CO I am happy to pay 40 bucks a month for my 5.0/500 My service provider is Sonic.net (A top rated ISP on BBR) the account comes with 8 static IP's and All services encouraged. All ports open, servers allowed, and they even allow reselling.

I'm paying for 6.0/608. But on broadbandreports.com I am consistantly testing at 5.0/500.

Oh. Well then... Have you tried something like this?:

I'm not familiar with that camera. But this suggestion sounds like it would be just what you are looking for: http://www.cctvforum.com/viewtopic.php?p=10996#10996

WoW. conduit is more expensive then wire mold? Interesting.

Don't feel bad. People don't want to pay for it here either. They usually want me to staple the cable down the wall. If it's commercial I just tell them it's required. If it's residential I tell them I can't carry a warranty on that cable/outlet. The good looking indoor plastic wiremold type stuff is about 2 bucks a foot around here. Compared to about .30 cents a foot for EMT.

I run a lot of conduit. It isn't usually required for low voltage stuff here. But if I need physical protection, or it's running outside I will run conduit. I have worked for an electrician in the past. I have all the benders and have enough experience to do some pretty nice conduit work. We use a fair amount of wiremolding indoors as well. But I pride myself in getting the cables in the walls. The other data cabling guys around here rarely fish cables into the walls. Some of the alarm guys around here are pretty good at fishing walls and stuff.

Oh, I see. Did you come down into the closet from the attic and stub through the wall above the door to mount that motion detector camera?

Nice work. Was the house prewired for the cameras?

WoW. 70K huh? Why don't you fly in a cabling contractor from California for a couple weeks to help out? I can clear my schedule and be there in 10 days.

Thanks for the link rory. I've been looking all over for a liquid cooled housing.