emptech

Do you still need an actual wiring diagram of the wire colors and how they transition to an RJ45 connector? I had a damaged RJ45 female and had to connect up to a keystone (RJ45 jack). The information was not all that easy to find I had to use an ohmmeter to find the actual pinout. Jim

I installed a system but did not seal the RJ45 POE ethernet cable from the weather. It worked fine until there was a major rainstorm. Water got into the connector, by electrolysis caused major corrosion, making the camera unusable. The problem shouldn't be unique to the FLIR, Lorex, or any other camera. However, the wire colors could be different. I was able so salvage the camera by cutting off the RJ45 in-line female connector (jack). The problem is, there are six colored wires, approximately 26 AWG and the question is, how would they connect to a new RJ45 plug or jack? The solution is to cut off the RJ45 jack. If you plan on using POE, there is no reason to keep the 12 volt barrel connector, so both can be cut off at the Y, leaving only one jacketed cable. If it was possible to install an RJ45 male or female connector, the following connections would be made. Using the TIA 568A standard, the following connections would be made. Since there are only six conductors from the camera, some pins on the RJ45 would have to be jumped. This is not practical, but if a male or female RJ45. There will be four wires left over, they can be clipped off, unless one wishes to provide 12 VDC to the camera instead of POE. Pin Color 1 Brown 2 Violet 3 Orange 4 Yellow 5 Yellow (jumped to above) 6 Blue 7 Grey 8 Grey (jumped to above) By making all of the connections, there will be sufficient lines for data connections and for the POE to negotiate. If for some reason, one wishes to provide electricity to the camera using 12 VDC, red and green are positive 12 volts and the black and white are the common or minus 12 VDC. I hope this information may become useful in salvaging what would be a useless camera or paperweight. The solution is to cut off the RJ45 jack. If you plan on using POE, there is no reason to keep the 12 volt barrel connector, so both can be cut off at the Y, leaving only one jacketed cable. If it was possible to install an RJ45 male or female connector, the following connections would be made. Using the TIA 568A standard, the following connections would be made. Since there are only six conductors from the camera, some pins on the RJ45 would have to be jumped. This is not practical, but if a male or female RJ45. There will be four wires left over, they can be clipped off, unless one wishes to provide 12 VDC to the camera instead of POE. I hope this information will help somebody, I was not able to find it after spending hours searching the internet. I don't check this forum often, so if you have questions or comments, you may contact me, emptech at surewest.net Jim

For a volunteer group, I'm setting up a donated Sony SNC-R225N camera on top of a 40 foot mast. I'm able to use the Sony Toolbox to setup the camera via the lan. I am looking for a free or low cost NVR program to control the camera. Although the toolbox will control the camera, it is mainly a setup tool. I need something that will show the image on a full or windowed screen, provide the PTZ controls, and provide some recording capability. I've tried a couple free programs and for whatever reason, the programs cannot find the camera on the same net. I've tried Contacam. I have no reason to use a hardware NVR in this case. Update: Tried a program ISpy, sees the camera, it works. I don't see a focus control, so far, PTZ, can record video, basically works, it's a start. Are there better recommendations though? Jim

Look at the first complaint, he hit format by mistake. That probably wiped out the file control block or whatever the o/s uses to keep track of the data. The data is likely still there, I assume that's important to him otherwise he wouldn't be asking. If it wasn't important, continue with the formatting and prepare the drive for use. From my experience the o/s is probably some flavor of Linux and using a file structure that windoze doesn't recognize, but file recovery programs can usually recognize other file systems. If they don't, plug the drive into a Linux system and use some Linux-base file recovery. To minimize data loss, make sure to not to write back to the same drive, best to write the data to another drive for now. Once the filesystem has been re-created, it can be put back onto the original drive. If you have to pay somebody for data recovery, it can be very expensive, but with patience you may be able to do it yourself. Jim

Stop! Don't go any further. You need to run some recovery software on the hard drive. There might even be some disk utilities that will "unformat" the drive. I use a product called R-tools, there are many more. Most of the time I would connect the hard drive to a windoze system and run the recovery software. What you don't want to do is write to the drive, as that may corrupt any valid data. Some of the disk formats may be unreadable in a windoze system. I've had other times I had to put a drive in a unix or linux system and do the recovery. It would be a good idea to have a second drive, same size that you can lay the data back to, including any boot sectors, etc. I'm not giving you any specifics but hopefully putting you in the right direction. Jim

Room air conditioning would help depending on the relative humidity, but best to replace the air, don't see why your gas mix shouldn't work, try it. It will not hurt anything. Argon is a noble gas, will not react with things, and I don't think the CO2 would matter, as the mixture should be dry, having water in the mixture would be real bad for welding, tig, mig, etc. Jim

search the web for the company, Theia Technologies, they have a free on-line lens calculator, they also have smart phone apps too. They are trying to sell their lenses, but you can choose one of their lenses similar to what you are testing and see it's angle of coverage, etc. https://www.theiatech.com/calculator/ Hope this helps -

FLIR owns Lorex, FLIR claims that the cameras branded FLIR are of a superior construction than Lorex, they claim their cameras us a metal housing where the Lorex are plastic, I have not verified this. I've taken apart the FLIR eyeball cameras, they are sealed with an O ring and also contain one or two bags of desiccant. That being said, I have to wonder if the cameras have leaked, are not properly sealed with the O ring? I have an LumiNox wrist watch, same problem after having a professional change the crystal. The repair shop is in New Jersey, I suspect the shop area has a high humidity and water vapor was trapped in the watch. If your camera is not leaking, I have to wonder about the location where the camera was assembled, probably in a foreign country with high humidity, where the desiccant is saturated. My idea, obtain a compressed cylinder of nitrogen. Have a clear plastic bag prepared that is large enough to house your camera, cable and whatever else goes with it. Open the camera, gently flood the internal parts with low pressure nitrogen, of course, you can't get rid of the air, but you are trying to minimize the air which contains moisture. Put the camera in the bag, fill the bag with nitrogen, so it's kind like a balloon. Let the nitrogen out, fill again, eventually getting rid of the moisture. With the camera sealed in the bag, close the camera up. If you have some new silica gel packets, would be a good time to replace them. I've heard it's possible to recycle the silica gel packs by placing them in a low temperature oven for several hours. I'm sure you can read up on this. Once the camera is closed, there should be little or no air, which is holding moisture. I've never tried this but have thought about it with my wrist watch as an example. BTW, we have the same problem with underwater cameras, in a tropical climate, such as Hawaii, there is a high moisture content in the air, down under the camera housing cools off and the water condenses inside, some people bring with them bags of silica gel for that purpose. If you try this, I'd like to know how this turns out. You should be able to purchase a small cylinder of nitrogen, along with a regulator at an industrial gas supply, I doubt that you can rent one, but it wouldn't hurt to ask. Jim

It's too late to edit this post, so I'd like to add something to help. If you should want to replace the RJ45 jack with another RJ45 jack (for those of you in Rio Linda, that means a female connector), the attached drawing should help. Again, there are only six wires from the camera but the connector has eight pins, so you will need to add two jumpers. Jim

I'm told that FLIR makes Lorex, they tell me that Lorex is a lower quality unit than FLIR. Lorex cams are in plastic housings where FLIR uses metal housings, the FLIR rep told me. I had the same problem, I traced the wires on my FLIR and this is what I found. I know it's ca55 or above, but I simply soldered a new cat5 cable to the individual wires and used shrink tubing to provide insulation. If you think about it, striping back the short cable from the camera isn't even cat5, it's just a multi-conductor cable, I've had no problems. If for some reason, the female RJ45 in-line jack should become damaged, all is not lost. If the camera is to use Power Over Ethernet, due to electrolysis that may take place if water should enter the cable connection, the camera will fail. Normally the resistance between conductors of the eight conductor RJ45 would be infinity, but if corrosion takes place, the various pins may short circuit to each other. Cleaning the pins in the RJ45 will not be good enough, and the connector is sealed, there is no way to repair the connector. The solution is to cut off the RJ45 jack. If you plan on using POE, there is no reason to keep the 12 volt barrel connector, so both can be cut off at the Y, leaving only one jacketed cable. If it was possible to install an RJ45 male or female connector, the following connections would be made. Since there are only six conductors from the camera, some pins on the RJ45 would have to be jumped. This is not practical, but if a male or female RJ45. There will be four wires left over, they can be clipped off, unless one wishes to provide 12 VDC to the camera instead of POE. Pin Color 1 Brown 2 Violet 3 Orange 4 Yellow 5 Yellow (jumped to above) 6 Blue 7 Grey 8 Grey (jumped to above) By making all of the connections, there will be sufficient lines for data connections and for the POE to negotiate. If for some reason, one wishes to provide electricity to the camera using 12 VDC, red and green are positive 12 volts and the black and white are the common or minus 12 VDC. Hope this helps

You are right, I used the 568A instead of the current B. In my case, as long as both ends were A, that's ok, A and B of course, would be a cross-over cable. Thanks for reminding me. It was late last night when I made the repair. Jim Hi. All above is correct ...... Looked at your other post and that is wrong. You use A ...... The standard is B .. And should not be mixed

I just had to replace the connector on my FLIR dome camera, they make Lorex, claim Lorex is a lower quality camera than FLIR. I just posted the colors and how they transformed to the RJ45 connector. The previous posts may not be accurate nor do they specify which 468 standard they are using, A or B. The previous posts don't accurately show the colors of the wires for external 12 volts either. Search for my post, look for water damage in flir camera or rj45. If you can't find it, send a message to me and I'll give you a copy of the info from reverse engineering. Jim emptech at surewest.net

Just an idea, place a fake camera that is not too difficult to get to, make sure it is in view of one of your other cameras, at least that would give you an idea if somebody is trying to vandalize your camera. Fake cameras are fairly cheap, come in all shapes and sizes. BTW, I see a lot of surveillance footage. Most cameras are mounted too high and do not get a good view of the person's face, so by the time the police grab a frame from your video, they see the top of their head, the bill of their ball cap or the top of their hoodie. So if you had a dummie camera up high in plain sight, and a concealed camera at eye level, that would give you the best chance of IDing the suspect. Jim