ronbo

Hi guys. Not been hear for many years, that what happens when you have a baby boy. He is two now and still way off helpin me out at work lol. But I'm working on that Anyway I want to buy a mini ptz its spec says its got 4 program zones for window blanking or masking. A four sided box that can be changed in shape. This would be fine but for a ptz cameras mounted at sofit hight on a culdesac this cant blank out everyone. Esp when the camera moves . Wouldn't be too bad if I could make other shapes like triangle. I know dvrs have masking but that would only work for static camera. There tech support hasnt been much help but would like to also know if if I blank out one inch of the top of the camera view on the front of house when I more the camera to the rear would the top inch still be blanked out ? Any ideas anyone ? Window blanking is very important to me so I can prove to neighbours its being used correctly as I know how they would feel if it were me. So need to find out before I buy.

a wide garden area but would like the option to zoom in a bit and the fact ive got many standard cameras with varible lens and a pin hile i would have to buy, also the blc and other settings i would like to use from mty variable lens camera, and its a low light area so my existing pin hole is just not upto it

hi all just wondering if anyone has has this problem before and if they have a solution rather then using a pin hole camera that is resricted in resolution ect i want to use a standard 3.5 - 9 mm len but because of the size of the lens it will be seen mainly as a reflection so would some sort a satin clear gloss on the lens help to reduce the glare but still be able to see though? any thoughts welcome ps already thought of tinted window liner but this would reduce the low light level image thanks

can i customise the background when using the keylock utility? ive seen post about it im sure ive gone though alot of the old post but can only find skins ect in comms ress, ive found that folder and like the splash folder but cant see whih one would be keylock utility background as it not the same as desktop back ground many thanks in advance ron

ya tryed that even with active desktop but still goes black for the back ground, ? im sure its somethink simple but have a stupid moment again cheers

i see where you coming from maybe i got a bit offended when u said my reply was to deceive others

got hold of a signal meter this is what ive found i cant see a definate pattern altho can see the video leval is lowafter being transmitted Termination resister in transmitter .. without termaination resister direct from camera video level 1.15 setting High..............video level 1.07 setting high / 1.21 setting normal at dvr end video level 0.69-0.89.................video level 0.92 setting high / 0.86 setting normal ..............................................0.94/1.01 in 1.36 in high contrast area wireless recever video level 0.64 setting normal............. video level 0.91 normal/high video level 0.77 setting high at transmitter with Y connector9 IE (though wireless but before transmitted) video level 0.48 setting high.........................video level 0.64 setting high video level 0.40- 43 setting normal...............video level 0.56 setting normal

this may be a long one, but here it goes. equipment Pectra IV SE PTZ RDT Analouge 5.8 inc radio modem problem at certain point where high contrast is in image get a black blob with turns to horizontal tearing and a gerneral look of interferance on the screen. what ive dont so far changed loads of settings on the wirless tran/recev switched of the telemtary modem, used a different dome , and now a different unit(inc back box) and still the same prob, spoke to RDT and we sort of confirmed the wirless is not at fault and it could be the camera, altho ive try another pelco PTZ and it the same prob, altho a static work completly fine. on the pelco firmware 2.11 i change the vidio leval from high and it just slighly makes it better but only slightly !!! the question why is it that two pelco domes could have not the right video level (1v) i know if it not precice enough the RDT tech said it could cause a problem, but cant understand why two domes should have the same issue (if it is that) ps the video signal is fine direct from the camera on my test monitor, dont have a video singnal tester to hand at the mo any ideas? cheers

Buy a colour/mono camera for $30 if you must, but do not expect it to perform like a professionally built camera. err ya thats the whole point of ebay ! its a step up from a jumble sale, and people who use it already know that. as for "Far ranging statements like this deceive the unaware" i take it you never brough a camera from there than- or you have a bussnis selling over priced equipment and they are not unaware were not dealing with kids, if they got this far they can make there one decitions

think the reason people get from HK and China is the spec and cost is far better then what you get here in uk for the same money its all and as long as your not looking for three years warrenty i would get from ebay (if i had to) you could always install speed humps at the right point so the car comes to such a halt the image is captured well enough

ive left the termination resister in the wireless transmitter and the blob ges, and just gets worse when i ain at bright light i then moved from ten meter range to about 50 meter from trans to wireless reciever and gets really bad would this be the wireless amplifiying a small prob or the wireless with too much output?

ive used the very (over) expensive pelco300 keyboard joystick used the gv net card and away on pelco D,2400 braud works fine but very expensive would imagen any would do if you got the net card

UPDATE been down there for most of afternoon kept the 75ohm resister in the wireless tramsmitter and used my test monitor on the controle end and the black blob went with only a small distortion- which is good so i moved the wireeless tx and cam,era further away from the Recever and it got even better ( thinking that the video signal would not be so strong) therefore not so high at recever. so thought if i need to terminate the tft, i put a resister on my test monitor but this made it worse- (but this would be double term) so at the top of screen i still get the tearing and less noticable i get it over the rest of screen so could this be another prob.

its 24 v ac the run is about 3 meter and its a pelco external psu measured at about 26 v ac these are remotely mounted together it also stays at the top dont move down like most psu fault ive had

so just solder a 70 ohm resister on it ya?

hi all i have recenly has a problem with screen tearing and a black blob when the PTZ is near high contrast areas, it being transmitted with a wireless kit 5.8ghz we falt finded it not to be the wireless and more about termination last night i put my test monitor on the the controle end and my picture quality seemed to be much better (not 100% tho) but it progress so how can i terminate or unterminate the GV 1240 card or does anyone have any more ideas?? or have i actually found the problem or and i going in the right direction ?? any ideas? cheers guys

after talking with pelco tech they check the vidio signal and its nothing unsuall he pointed me in the direction of Termination at controle end now what i did last night was before the camera goes into the geovision i put my test monitor on the coax end and my video picture was alot better with no real bad blob or tearing !! wich is good but how do i over come this as geovision does not terminate or un terminate? or have i actually found the problem or and i going in the right direction ?? posted a version in geovision forum too if thats ok rory

ya tryed all thet im on pelco D 2400 not polarity- set pc coms port to that and pelco download software to that too ive updated 3 spectra IV so far so know that part oif it works it just the PTZ contaole but suppose it not a major thing, just strange cheers

been on this for a while now so thought i best call for help before i go mad. i have the spectra IV SE dome, i have the IPS cable a pc with serial and a null modem cable ( i made my self !!!) the pins the ips cale uses are 2, 3, and 5 5 being ground 2,3 data, now origialy i wired 5-5 2-2 3-3 but then found it should be 5-5 2-3 3-2 but still dont work ? keep getting connection error on the pelco program any ideas. or does the pc's serial data run on other pin appart from 2 and 3??? cheers

upload seems to work but not PTZ control ? the main thing is up load tho why dint i just press the upload button 3 hours ago rather then getting the control to work- prob as the last time i did that it said upload done, but never did anything. where as not its been uploading for ten min with a download on the screen progressing ideal

i had this prob before i took unit apart to try to trace it but think i drew a blank sorry not much help

in therory any screen will do, a large CRT will give best image but a flatscreen would look better and easyer to install i would of thought. you can connect a cale from the camera or dvr is you have one to the back of the screen using a BNC to phono plug, then use a scart to phono socket. would be harder to use a flatscreen monitor thats just for pc use as you may not have any connections on the back (also manufactorers dont recoment this as thay are not made for this purpose) but CCTV monitors that have BNC connections on the back can be double the price of other monitors

as long as the heater works they should be fine i check a few the other week and was ok,, some external housings can be installed with wipers. and shouldnt get to much corrosion as there shouldnt be too much slt in the air which is why most housings corrode.

ya too right, just the only thing with a crt is its hard to take them to the top of a ladder with an external camera i did try attatching a battery to a portable 6 inch monitor but was still to heavy.

i recently installed an a few ip cameras, and to cut a long story short, none of them i could get a connection oni used my cat 5 tester and it showed no crossed wires shorts or opens., remade, remade and remade all the catV plugs. the only way we got it to work is by cutting off the ends of patch leads and jointing the ends together. can anyone explain why i had to do this- also i had brought differnt plugs thinking it was them? cheers